Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
10-30-2006, 05:30 PM
#1
Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
OK, part I (What Equipment) was a raving success. Here are the guidelines/questions for part II, an easy part.
What type glue (CA, epoxy, alphatic(?), carpenters, hot glue, etc) do you use for different parts of the plane:
Framing fuselage, wings & control services with stick balsa?
What do you use when you have to sheet over flat or rounded surfaces?
What do you use when you need to laminate surfaces with balsa, light ply?
What glue if you are gluing dissimilar types of wood.
What type glue (CA, epoxy, alphatic(?), carpenters, hot glue, etc) do you use for different parts of the plane:
Framing fuselage, wings & control services with stick balsa?
What do you use when you have to sheet over flat or rounded surfaces?
What do you use when you need to laminate surfaces with balsa, light ply?
What glue if you are gluing dissimilar types of wood.
10-30-2006, 05:38 PM
#2
RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
OK, part I (What Equipment) was a raving success. Here are the guidelines/questions for part II, an easy part.
What type glue (CA, epoxy, alphatic(?), carpenters, hot glue, etc) do you use for different parts of the plane:
Framing fuselage, wings & control services with stick balsa?
I use Elmers pro bond (alphatic)
What do you use when you have to sheet over flat or rounded surfaces?
I use Elmers Pro Bond thinned down and applied to both surfaces let stand until dry, Then I "Iron" the two pieces together.
What do you use when you need to laminate surfaces with balsa, light ply?
I use 30 minute Zpoxy Clamped well until dry.
What glue if you are gluing dissimilar types of wood.
I use Elmers Pro Bond Alphatic.
Bob Laine
What type glue (CA, epoxy, alphatic(?), carpenters, hot glue, etc) do you use for different parts of the plane:
Framing fuselage, wings & control services with stick balsa?
I use Elmers pro bond (alphatic)
What do you use when you have to sheet over flat or rounded surfaces?
I use Elmers Pro Bond thinned down and applied to both surfaces let stand until dry, Then I "Iron" the two pieces together.
What do you use when you need to laminate surfaces with balsa, light ply?
I use 30 minute Zpoxy Clamped well until dry.
What glue if you are gluing dissimilar types of wood.
I use Elmers Pro Bond Alphatic.
Bob Laine
10-30-2006, 06:54 PM
#4
RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
Splais. I really don't have any particular reason to like it over any other alphatic glue I guess. I really like it's adhesion qualities and ease of use over the "Tight Bond" I used for so many years. There was a time when I couldn't find "Tight Bond," and I started buying Pro Bond a Home Depot.
After using it I discovered that it would take a set much faster than other alphatic glues I've used and I suppose that....... more than anything else keeps me "Bonded" (pun intended) to Pro Bond.
There are other glue's Ive experimented with lately that also have their own unique qualities, such as "Gorilla" glue, and Tight Bonds "Ultra". Both of which have tremendous gap filling abilities but they require a much longer clamp time. I prefer not to have the gaps to start with. Also I must confess that I've not taken the time necessary to familiarize completely with all the qualities of these two adhesives because I've never found anything wrong with the glue's I'm already using.
There are times when I'll resort to "CA," but those times a very rare. I've never used a complete bottle without it going bad before I could use it up. Not saying anythings wrong with it........I just don't like it period.
As for my "application," technique for applying Pro Bond , It's really quite simple. I always mist the parts to be joined with water and, depending on if the part's to be joined are "end" grain or on the grain, I adjust the thickness of the glue to the task at hand. Hope this answers your question but.....consider this. There are thousands of modeler's out there that never use "Alphatic Resin" glue, and they've had just as much success as I have. But, this I'll guarantee. They spent a lot more money for the glue they did use, and their glue joints were no stronger than mine. (The Plane that is) Bob Laine
After using it I discovered that it would take a set much faster than other alphatic glues I've used and I suppose that....... more than anything else keeps me "Bonded" (pun intended) to Pro Bond.
There are other glue's Ive experimented with lately that also have their own unique qualities, such as "Gorilla" glue, and Tight Bonds "Ultra". Both of which have tremendous gap filling abilities but they require a much longer clamp time. I prefer not to have the gaps to start with. Also I must confess that I've not taken the time necessary to familiarize completely with all the qualities of these two adhesives because I've never found anything wrong with the glue's I'm already using.
There are times when I'll resort to "CA," but those times a very rare. I've never used a complete bottle without it going bad before I could use it up. Not saying anythings wrong with it........I just don't like it period.
As for my "application," technique for applying Pro Bond , It's really quite simple. I always mist the parts to be joined with water and, depending on if the part's to be joined are "end" grain or on the grain, I adjust the thickness of the glue to the task at hand. Hope this answers your question but.....consider this. There are thousands of modeler's out there that never use "Alphatic Resin" glue, and they've had just as much success as I have. But, this I'll guarantee. They spent a lot more money for the glue they did use, and their glue joints were no stronger than mine. (The Plane that is) Bob Laine
10-30-2006, 07:52 PM
#5
RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
Bob, thanks, i've used Gorilla glue for some time now on hinges and were foam is involved, and like it. I guess my uneducated questions regarding Alphatic glues vs CA is the setup time before handling. Ca-squirt and done. I'm thinking you may be more comfortable with the working time of alphatics, or is it something else. thanks.
10-30-2006, 08:12 PM
#6
RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
I just never get in a hurry when I build. And I suppose I'm just set in my ways, and been in the hobby too long. I'm fixing to start a 55% J3 Cub that will be built almost entirely with Pro Bond, and Spruce I had shipped in from Oregon. Another big thing is, I really can't stand the smell of CA and just never trusted it's use on hard balsa. I'm a firm believer in using the correct weight and grain balsa and hardwoods for each particular component on the aircraft. And I suppose that's why I've always preferred scratch building as opposed to "Kit's". (except when I fly Arf's). And lastly.......when it comes to gluing end grain wood with CA! .......forget it. Bob Laine
10-31-2006, 06:36 AM
#8
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RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
I also like the resin glues. Tightbond origional formula is my favorite. My wife and i have both developed "sesitive lungs" as we age. I only use thin and medium CA to tack glue or hold something in place. Epoxy on structural items such as firewall and landing gears, wing center section.... Back in the early years I would use Ambroid. Still a great glue when used correctly. I quess what I am atempting to say, I use em all but try to stay away from CA as much as possible. Also used to love the dope and silk covering. Had to give that up for the smell has become to offensive. Now I use Solartex or Koverall and latex paint.
JEB
JEB
10-31-2006, 08:07 PM
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RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
i used to use CA, but after hearing about the long term effects of using it, i use pro bond wood glue! sure it takes longer to set up, but if you utilize your work area to allow more than one component to be built at a time, you can build just as fast. also, the extra time for the glue to set up, to me is a good thing, b/c you can always reposition parts if needed, and sometimes (i found) i get a little ahead of myself when i get into a "building spree". thats when stupid mistakes happen.
for high stress areas n' such, i use 15 or 30 min epoxy. i have never worked up the nerve to use gorilla glue. epoxy has always worked fine for me. i stay away from the 5 min crap though. its just too britle when cured
for high stress areas n' such, i use 15 or 30 min epoxy. i have never worked up the nerve to use gorilla glue. epoxy has always worked fine for me. i stay away from the 5 min crap though. its just too britle when cured
10-31-2006, 09:10 PM
#12
RE: Building - Part II: What Glue, Were
I came across a technique in the Master Modeler Series Building Techiniques that has worked well for me for attaching balsa skins to wings. Apply white glue (I used TiteBond) to the ribs and spars with a smooth thin coat and also a thin coat on the skin where it will contact the ribs and spars and let the glue dry. Once dry, position the skin on the wing and use your covering iron on the balsa skin. This will 'reactivate' the alphatic resin and give an instant bond similar to contact cement, but with the advantage of being able to position everything before applying the heat.
Scott
Scott
