FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You do the fin with the top of the turtleback the sides are done separately.

acdii

I remember how I did mine now. Right down the middle. Each side is done with the edge wrapped on the center stringer. I pieced it between the middle stringer and corner stringer and the entire fin, then the sides. I think I started from the bottom up. Then again I used fabric and dope so the seams are invisible.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

I have been looking at old posts on another Cub thread. At that time, I was bashing a GP 81" Cub with the Saito 90T. A guy named KHodges, his RCG name, from Canada, gave me the idea to siamese the cowl to fit the 90T in. He posted pictures of his 90T in the 1/5th Sig Cub. He also set up two dummy cylinders for it, and a coffee can fuel tank, and I guess the real thing is gravity feed, his looks full scale. Posting pictures here, and KHodges, if you are reading this, give us a shout. I am thinking of two dummy cylinders, the ones from TopNotch.
Vince

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Cool!

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Nauset - What are you painting the inside of your cub with ? Brush it on ?

V

acdii

Well that sure is different.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Got this in the mail today, straight from Poland, Galaxy Hobbys, took 9 days from time of paypal payment. The last one I purchased in 2005, came in a white box. Delivered by UPS International. Just got mail from a guy that makes the cockpit kits for the sig 1/5th cub, had to write back to him, forget who I sent the mail to. His last name is Stevick.
Robart gear is here, Merry Christmas to me
Vince

acdii

jealous am I. Would love to put that on mine. I have a Gemini 120 Twin on an Ultimate Bipe and love how it runs and sounds.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Why buy it in Poland?

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Horizon has it discontinued in the USA. Next up was Hobby Horse, it is on his site, he wrote back, not stocking anymore, says it has been discontinued. I did more research, it is stocked with many others at Galaxy Hobby, in Poland. I was kind of suspicious of these countrys, except they take PayPal. That is my guarantee if something is amiss.
I paid $607.00 total with shipping, and I got it in 9 days from time it was shipped, via UPS Int'l. The last one I purchased like this, in 2005, was from Horizon.
This is my second twin, the last one I put in a bashed J-3, I sold it all when I got the pattern bug. This will be the first one I will fly in this Sig 1/5th scale Cub.

Vince

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Where do the "hatch mounts" mount at in the upper fuse wing cage ? I am ready to secure all of this. Two ply pieces about 1.5"X1", with tabs on the ends. I cannot see anywhere in the cage where these tabs plug in. I am sure it is for the removable hatch.

Thanks,

Vince

acdii

Check the pics in post http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...l#post12285559

You might find what you are looking for there. The pieces you are referring to I think are those used to secure the top with the window to the fuse.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks AC.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

There are many Cub threads.
V

Nauset

I used Aero Gloss cub yellow dope first sealed with Aero Gloss sanding sealer. You need the sanding sealer because the yellow does not cover well especially on the singed edges left by the laser cutter. My side panels are balsa sheet covered with 21st century fabric then glued in to place.

acdii

I found a layer of white followed by clear works best before putting the yellow on. Silver is also a good choice for a base.

Nauset

Yes white is a good base layer especially on the Robart gear. I tried spraying the Lustrekote cub yellow over the gray primer that comes from the factory and it looked awful. Almost green. Put a coat of white primer and then more yellow and it was just right. A coat of white over the laser burn is a must for transparent coverings as well.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I think the old Ultracote matching paint covered better but like the Lusterkote you really needed white primer underneath.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Has anybody here installed the Robart Cub gear and if so, what's the proper way to do it.
I've got a set and hesitate to get started as there may be something I'm missing. There were no installation instructions with my set.

SunDevilPilot

You should have a template for drilling the holes.

You can see in this photo the landing gear block I added to the bottom of the plane. I just sistered the new one to the front of the exhisting rear block. Robart gear is shorter front to back than the stock gear.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I installed mine on a SIG 1/5th Cub the same way as above and then removed it for paint after everything was fitted. I get my "O" rings from a local industrial gasket company and replace them several times a year. I haven't tried bungie cord or added covers yet.

SunDevilPilot

Mine have been modified with a spring type setup. Handy having a lathe!

You can buy a set but what's the fun in that?

SunDevilPilot

Nauset

Check your template with a ruler first as mine was 1/8" off center which does not sound like much but it made it difficult to get the blind nuts in place on one side. I actually had to cut the flange on one side of the blind nuts to clear the side wall. I sent Robart an email to bring it to their attention and I never got any reply.

Nauset

Here is how I did my turtle deck and fin with 21st century fabric. One half at a time. You need to start with a piece wide enough to cover the fin then as you manipulate it into place you can trim pieces off to get the transition area to fit better Wrap the covering around the stringers for better hold. I also used Balsarite to get better adhesion as there is not much surface area on the stringers. I also swapped the balsa top stringers for spruce to be stronger.

acdii

Thats nice! Someday I should get my lathe and mill out and give it a go. So far all I used the lather for was cutting some tubing to engine standoffs. Found I am missing a tailstock chuck though.