swept back dihedral joiner
#1
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swept back dihedral joiner
I'm scratch building a low wing plane with slightly swept back wings and would like some advice on how to install the wing joiner.
Thanks for any input.
Thanks for any input.
#2
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RE: swept back dihedral joiner
Some people use straight hardwood spars across the center sections on both sides.
I have also used a laminated dihedral brace with a bend in the middle. 1/16 aircraft ply bent to match the sweep and laminated (4 pieces) with epoxy works well.
I have also built many planes without a dihedral joiner. I used 6 ounce fiberglass cloth and 30-minute epoxy to join the panels. The largest plane I did this on was a 90" span, 60cc powered giant acro plane. I used to snap the heck out of it and never had a problem.
I have also used a laminated dihedral brace with a bend in the middle. 1/16 aircraft ply bent to match the sweep and laminated (4 pieces) with epoxy works well.
I have also built many planes without a dihedral joiner. I used 6 ounce fiberglass cloth and 30-minute epoxy to join the panels. The largest plane I did this on was a 90" span, 60cc powered giant acro plane. I used to snap the heck out of it and never had a problem.
#3
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RE: swept back dihedral joiner
Thanks Ed. I like all the ways you mentioned. Do you have a preference for a 2 stroke .75 powered low wing plane set up?
#4
RE: swept back dihedral joiner
Fashion one out of aluminum stock... my sailplanes would have an aluminum joiner with a coiuple holes sandwiched between ply... the holes allowed expoy to tie the ply together.. you could put a slight bend in the joiner and retain all the strenfth of the aluminum.
Mike
Mike
#5
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My Feedback: (4)
RE: swept back dihedral joiner
If you scratch-built it, you should have designed it with a straight spar. Too late for that now, but something to consider in the future.
What I would do is to use thin plywood - Like 1/16" - and epoxy it in place with the necessary bend.
Clamp it, and let the epoxy set.
Then add a second, a third, even a forth if you think it needs it. Or maybe 2 layers on each side of the spar.
What I would do is to use thin plywood - Like 1/16" - and epoxy it in place with the necessary bend.
Clamp it, and let the epoxy set.
Then add a second, a third, even a forth if you think it needs it. Or maybe 2 layers on each side of the spar.
#10
My Feedback: (18)
RE: swept back dihedral joiner
I actually used several (six I think) solid aluminum rods 3/8 in diameter if my memory serves me correctly. Each one was carefully bent to shape and the final resulting spar was epoxied into the existing dihedral slot. I had to sand the center section to have the right angle but it wasn't that bad.
PM me if you need closer pictures or further explanation.
Anthony
PM me if you need closer pictures or further explanation.
Anthony