Skybolt hangar and clubhouse
02-10-2014, 07:47 PM
#1877
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I double what Steve said, if anybody has a Sig kit for sale I'll definitely want to buy it. Or, if anybody has a set of plans that as all of the parts needed for cutting on it I would be more than happy to buy those. I'd be more than happy to cut my own kit if I had to. Won't be the first time I've had to do that!!!
Ken
Ken
I have a copy of the build manual in .pdf form, and would be happy to post it here. I tried, but I am unable to get the files to upload in the Manage Attachments option (three files - largest 8.1 MB). I was able to produce a .jpeg of the manual page that shows the fuse top.
Last edited by EJWash1; 02-10-2014 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Added pic of fuse top in build manual
02-11-2014, 08:08 AM
#1878
I have the Sig plans and build manual in pdf. format. They can be blown up any scale when printed. If there is no copy-write infringement, anyone wants to give me a PM request with their direct Email, I can boot them off.
Last edited by Cougar429; 02-12-2014 at 07:33 AM.
02-11-2014, 08:55 AM
#1880
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That's awesome. Now, does anyone have parts they can trace out? Or do you have that too? Some plans just don't show any of the parts and leave too much to the imagination. At least for me.
02-12-2014, 07:33 AM
#1881
I think I replied to all the PM's and got the files organized correctly, (still half asleep!). These files are rather large, in the 7-8M range, so all 4 were sent separately. If your inbox cannot tolerate that big a file, not sure what to do.
As for the print, it seems to have outlines of the ribs and fuse formers. The wings are constant chord, so are much easier to pattern. All the ribs should be identical.
As for the print, it seems to have outlines of the ribs and fuse formers. The wings are constant chord, so are much easier to pattern. All the ribs should be identical.
02-12-2014, 06:07 PM
#1886
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There should be no problems with any of the parts, looks like almost all is on there. The only thing you are going to have to do on your own is the turtle deck.
02-12-2014, 06:14 PM
#1887
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I would call Sig and see if they have any leftover turtledecks. I have done that in the past, and they had parts for kits that were discontinued for 10 plus yrs. Couple years ago I needed a windshield and set of windows for the real old quick-build Cessna 150 Aerobat. Guess what, They had them. I was tickled pink.
02-12-2014, 06:19 PM
#1888
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So, I've never done it before. How do you go about printing the plans out? Flash drive to kinkos or something? Does the scale end up right? What if you wanted to scale it up to say 25% or 33%?
02-12-2014, 06:23 PM
#1889
I looked at the plans and was looking at the turtledeck. I can call Sig and see if they have one. It also doesn't look too hard to convert to a sheeted balsa. I'm considering blowing this up into a bigger plane, so I'll have to do something like that anyway.
Yes, Take them and you should be able to get them printed no problem at all. You could also have them blown up to a larger scale as well.
Ken
So, I've never done it before. How do you go about printing the plans out? Flash drive to kinkos or something? Does the scale end up right? What if you wanted to scale it up to say 25% or 33%?
Ken
02-13-2014, 06:50 AM
#1890
I'm glad they got there fine.
If another was to grace my build table the turtledeck would definitely be offered to this forum as a spare. Never liked how brittle stock plastic is, (and gets even worse over time) and would suspect any spares sitting around this long would prove to be the case. Even epoxy/glass over carved foam may be more durable.
Mind you, I earlier admitted the bonehead mistake I made with mine. The original builder had not adequately tightened the covering before globbing on the paint. Consequently there were several areas where the covering sagged like an old bed sheet. Took the heat gun to the fuse and found some tightening, but not before softening the turtledeck. When I handled the fuse to access another section kind of dimpled it in. Not an area that can be pushed back out again without removal, so it stayed that way.
The beauty of all of that was the tightening only lasted a short time......
If another was to grace my build table the turtledeck would definitely be offered to this forum as a spare. Never liked how brittle stock plastic is, (and gets even worse over time) and would suspect any spares sitting around this long would prove to be the case. Even epoxy/glass over carved foam may be more durable.
Mind you, I earlier admitted the bonehead mistake I made with mine. The original builder had not adequately tightened the covering before globbing on the paint. Consequently there were several areas where the covering sagged like an old bed sheet. Took the heat gun to the fuse and found some tightening, but not before softening the turtledeck. When I handled the fuse to access another section kind of dimpled it in. Not an area that can be pushed back out again without removal, so it stayed that way.
The beauty of all of that was the tightening only lasted a short time......
02-13-2014, 11:04 AM
#1891
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I plan to sheet the turtle deck with balsa anyway. It's hard for me to not bump this one up to the next build, but I already have a list of nexts. Soon though. Does anyone know how to get these files from email to a flash drive or disc? I'm not the best with technology.
02-13-2014, 07:59 PM
#1892
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I managed to get a couple of pics of my GP skybolt today. Have to finish the wing sruts, mount wheel pants. and finish hooking up some of the linkages. I went with the scheme that was on the box
These pics are not great but will get better ones once it is done
These pics are not great but will get better ones once it is done
Last edited by Bob Howard; 02-13-2014 at 08:03 PM.
02-14-2014, 07:09 AM
#1893
Steve, when the attachment is shown in the Email, you can click and tell it to save on your PC at a location of your choice. From there you can drag and drop it to your portable device.
I located another set of Skybolt plans for anyone to download. Have a boo here:
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/download_...an.asp?ID=4918
Once the page comes up you can tell it to download the file to your PC.
I located another set of Skybolt plans for anyone to download. Have a boo here:
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/download_...an.asp?ID=4918
Once the page comes up you can tell it to download the file to your PC.
02-16-2014, 03:20 PM
#1894
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wow Bob that scheme looks like a professional job well done,
it seems there has been a run of GP Skybolts on ebay lately I picked one up myself to build after I finish a couple of projects, I have kits now of the Sig and GP versions so I am not sure which one to pick up, personally my biggest challenge is not the build its the covering job some impressive covering jobs in this thread.
it seems there has been a run of GP Skybolts on ebay lately I picked one up myself to build after I finish a couple of projects, I have kits now of the Sig and GP versions so I am not sure which one to pick up, personally my biggest challenge is not the build its the covering job some impressive covering jobs in this thread.
02-16-2014, 04:29 PM
#1895
If anyone is interested, a Super, (airframe only) just came available this evening here in Canada.
Since all this snow will melt someday and the water levels are predicted to be the highest in 14 years, may finally get the chance to try it out on floats. Once the Waco is finished that installation could be next on the build table.
Cannot remember if anyone posted pics of theirs set up this way. Would love to see some again.
Since all this snow will melt someday and the water levels are predicted to be the highest in 14 years, may finally get the chance to try it out on floats. Once the Waco is finished that installation could be next on the build table.
Cannot remember if anyone posted pics of theirs set up this way. Would love to see some again.
02-16-2014, 05:09 PM
#1897
One thing that makes the installation easier is the alloy spring gear. This still requires spreaders to maintain width and parallel, but only a thin profile alloy rear attach. All but the stock gear would stay with the floats and would make quick work of switching from one to the other.
You could make the setup stiffer with drag links to a pair of the fuse mounting bolts on the stock gear. Depends on how much flex you have in the system. On my heavily modded Eagle 2 I had a much stiffer alloy gear. Wish I had kept it or at least recorded the info before it was sold. It was a black anodized alloy of thicker gauge and I found it at the swap area at Toledo years ago..
Here`s a pic with the mounting nearly complete. With wire it`s a bit more complex. Since it is capable of bending in multiple planes it`s necessary to add a lot of extra bracing.
NOTE: You cannot see the steering arm sticking out the bottom of the fuse that ran a wire-in-tube to the water rudder. Subsequent craft had servos buried in a float compartment. Much cleaner install and with the lower wing on the `Bolt one that would be nearly mandatory. I rarely found the need for more than a single water rudder.
You could make the setup stiffer with drag links to a pair of the fuse mounting bolts on the stock gear. Depends on how much flex you have in the system. On my heavily modded Eagle 2 I had a much stiffer alloy gear. Wish I had kept it or at least recorded the info before it was sold. It was a black anodized alloy of thicker gauge and I found it at the swap area at Toledo years ago..
Here`s a pic with the mounting nearly complete. With wire it`s a bit more complex. Since it is capable of bending in multiple planes it`s necessary to add a lot of extra bracing.
NOTE: You cannot see the steering arm sticking out the bottom of the fuse that ran a wire-in-tube to the water rudder. Subsequent craft had servos buried in a float compartment. Much cleaner install and with the lower wing on the `Bolt one that would be nearly mandatory. I rarely found the need for more than a single water rudder.
Last edited by Cougar429; 02-16-2014 at 05:24 PM.
02-16-2014, 05:59 PM
#1899
Yes. Many winds of very fine strand pulled from a speaker wire soldered at the junction. Each end has a solder lug. The forward is bolted to the float and the rear fits over the wire between the wheel flange and gear blocks. Same with the drag braces. Once everything is fastened down it becomes solid and stable.
02-16-2014, 10:23 PM
#1900
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I did the same set up on my floats there very stable every thing but the cross wire the Dural landing gear really stiffens up with a cross bar, I used aluminum tube smashed at the ends and bolted to the gear these are Goldberg Cub floats they would work well with the Bolt 
