Flytoolow

My Feedback: (17)

Just got a 40 size kit, who has done what to this bird (any size) and all modifications are welcome!

saramos

I'm in the process of a 4 * 40 build with quite a few mods. This is my second 4 *. My first one had two simple mods, clipped wings and a cut down canopy. I lost it due to reversed ailerons. After getting my tx back from repairs, I forgot to computer reverse them and ...

The mods on my current build are more extensive.

Clipped wings
Rounded wingtips
Fully sheeted and glassed wings
Air retracts
LED wingtip nav lights, strobe and landing lights
Fuselage fully covered in FliteSkin
fiberglass molded full cowl with OS 50SX mounted inverted
Redesigned vertical stab and rudder, designed after the Venture 60

I'll try and get some photos tomorrow and post them.

Scott

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I'll second the 4*40. I've had 3. Wrecked two (pilot error) and sold one. If I recall, it's a flat bottomed wing which makes construction easier if you're just starting out. There is a little bit of carving to be done, but not much, and it's easier than it looks.

Bob

rwright142

I have a 4* 40 build thread here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5599424/tm.htm

I just did the stock build, and it was my 1st 4* so don't think of it as a "How-to" but more of a "what did he do wrong so that I won't make the same mistake" thread.

saramos, are you documenting your mods? They sound great!

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

I've had a 4 Star 40 for the last 4 years, started out with an ASP 52 four stroke, then experimented with a variety of electric motors in it, flew it for the first half of this year with an ASP 61 four stroke, now it has a Saito 62 in it. Very flexible model, each change has involved substantial mods, rebuilding top of fuselage and new firewalls, but it flies as well as ever.

Today I bought a 4 Star 60 to keep it company!

sonsight

My Feedback: (1)

Flytoolow,
The only real mod a 4* needs is to really brace the fuselage, right behind where the wing bolts to it. Other than that, you might want to trim down that dorky canopy. Great bird, she flies as good as everyone says. You'll love it!

outdoorhunting

Definitely 10 points for the 4*. My first kit build was a 4*40. It was a dream to build. Unfortunatly pilot error id it in way before it's time !! I now have a 4* 60 & it's the best plane I have ever flown . You can go fast or almost float it in on landing. Something that's a lot of fun is to get some altitude, head into the wind & see how low you can drop the thottle & still keep your altitude. It's almost like a sailplane. Is mine different or does all 4*s have that really cool high speed whistle?

ServoShack

I think I am going to get a 4*40 as my firts nitro plane (third plane overall) but was wondering if I could complete the kit without the engine? or do I have to have the engine to finish the build? I was thinking about getting just the plane, building it (while saving money for an engine) then after I finished the plane get an OS .46 AX .

saramos

The way it's constructed, you should be able to do almost the entire build without the engine. The only suggestion would be to leave the front turtledeck off until you have the engine. This will allow you to mount the tank and route the throttle cable with proper placement and ease. This will most likely also mean holding off on covering the fuse too.

Here are some photos of my 4 * in it's current state.

Scott

saramos

And a couple more.

Scott

KitBuilder

Your going inverted on the motor? I was thinking of getting one as well.. I read the wing is sem-symetrical in the ads. I was thinking of rounded tips and creating a slight turtle deck forward of the canopy.
Mike

foodstick

Alot of people take some of the dihedral out. And I have heard taking a wing bay out of each side makes a much more agile plane as well. Another thing some of the guys around here did was substitute spruce wood for the balsa wing spars...

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Saramos I had planned on spending the afternoon working in my tiny shop but after seeing your working space you have ruined my day. [] Your working table is great.

saramos

I started off working on a 2' x 4' piece of MDF topped with ceiling tile. When I realized that this was a hobby I wanted to continue to persue, I decided to convert my garage into a workshop. My buildboard was inspired by what I found on Paul Johnson's website at www.airfieldmodels.com. I spent a good 6 months to convert my garage, building the table, rewireing, adding a/c, and builiding two walls of cabinets from scratch.

Scott

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Nice shots - and with retracts too... nice.

As for cutting off the wing bays, I've done that on one of my four-Star's. I didn't think that it was worth it. If you want, you could increase the area on the ailerons (i.e., cut new ones perhaps 1/4" wider on the chord).

I once made a custom wing with a Selig 8036 airfoil (had to modify the wing saddle area to make it fit) and really liked the performance. It let me sheet the LE as well, which I liked.

Bob

BillS

I am in the process of repairing a 4* 60. Much of the lite ply shattered on light ground contact.

An access hatch for the tank might be a good idea.

Facing the formers at wing front and rear with 1/64" lite ply would make them more durable. Triangle or Sq. stock would also tie all formers to the fuselage more securely.

The fuselage behind the wing breaks easily and could benefit from facing the fuselage sides a few inches back from the rear of the wing.

The fuselage in front of the tail feathers is also weak.

Bill

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

One other item that I didn't like (at least on the 4-Star 40) was the use of balsa triangle stock to brace the landing gear mounting plate. At the time, this was my first low-wing plane, so I knew that the landings were going to be less than, um, perfect so I replaced the balsa stock with pine, and use a lot of clamps to make sure everything was nice and secure.

Bob

BillS

Bob,

Agreed. I notice that a lot of landing gear blocks break out. Maybe someone has come up with a good method of reinforcing the landing gear area.

Bill

saramos

Whether by accident or design, it may be beneficial for the landing gear plate to be the weak link. If it breaks out, it's a fairly easy fix. If you were to strengthen it, a hard landing could transfer the loads deeper into the planes structure, possibly damaging areas that are harder to repair. Think of it as a crumple zone. If flying from grass, larger wheels should help.

Here's a photo with the engine, spinner and prop on. I should be able to get some more time in the shop today.

Scott

rwright142

saramos makes a good point. I recently had to deadstick my 4* 40 in some corn - my only choice. The gear block snapped cleanly off. I glued it back on, repaired a couple of small holes in some monocote and was back in the air. If I had strengthened the gear area I may have had a lot more damage - or no damage at all, but all things considered I'll take my chances with the gear as it is.

micagreenmachin

Ok, here's m Four Star 40... I built it 4 years ago and it's still going strong.

Mods include:
Balsa cowl
Fully sheeted turtle deck
Downsized canopy
Scratch built wing
Sheeting from LE to spar/caps from spar to TE
Oversized ailerons
1 bay shorter on each side
Dual aileron servos
Rounded wing tips

Flies great! The OS 46 FX in the nose is getting tired, if my SuperTigre 51 will fit in the cowl, that's what is going in there next.

-Todd

rwright142

Nice job!