rheauljj

I have some cash to burn on my new workshop. I'm fairly new to building (actually 12 year hiatus -- kids) so I haven't thought tools and gear in sometime. I'm looking for a list of tools & equipment for kit building with a goal of scratch building.

Any advice will be appreciated.

meaden

9" Delta bandsaw. $100 and usefull for all kinds of stuff. While your getting one of those a small Delta drill press (also $100) is handy too. Great for drilling engine mounts.

meaden

One tip on the bandsaw. You need to bolt it to a solid table or you won't be cutting anyitng close to straight.

rheauljj

Thanks for the advice. Amazon had both, purchased together for $196.00. Thanks...

How about building wings?

I have a three inch thick, solid wood table that I will use for building wings...very solid, perfectly level. What would you recommend putting under it to "pin" or secure wing parts? I was thinking of cork or maybe a wing jig?

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I totally agree with meaden. Having these two tools make a world of difference with building airplanes. I also bought the same two as well as a Delta ShopMaster 1" Belt/ 8" Disk sander.


Tim Schuy

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

You'll like the Delta tools, imo...as mentioned above, inexpensive, and while certainly not made for commercial grade work, excellent for the sort of stuff we do when building our models. My whole bench is covered with Delta stuff, including the ones you purchased. I also recommend a couple of other delta tools...they have a desktop sander with a 1" belt and 8" disc that i have found invaluable, and picked up for < $80. Also, they have a 16" variable speed scroll saw that's handy has well.

Another tool I've recently found I can NOT live without (and one you likely weren't thinking about 12 yrs ago *heh*) is VERY inexpensive, and AWFULLY handy. I found, at a Big Lots, an inexpensive laser level. (I think it was like..$8 or something). It has a little tripod it mounts to. Since it shoots both a horizontal or vertical beam, it's AWESOME for marking level lines on fuse sides, or aligning things in a perfectly straight line, or any number of other "annoying" tasks like that. I even made a small little degree wheel for mine, and have used it to set or check wing incidences....I'm always finding SOMETHING I can do with it, and for < $10 (heck, even the expensive ones at Lowe's are in the $30 range) it's been a great tool.

Finally, I, like you, have a large solid wood building surface. When I'm building off of plans, and will be using pins and such, I run up to Lowe's and spend $6 on a sheet of fiberboard insulation. It's easy to cut to the shape/size of the table, can simply be clamped down, and provides a flat, smooth building surface that's easy to push pins into. If you render it unsuitable for future builds (spilling epoxy, cutting it up, whatever) then it's quick and easy to remove, and inexpensive to replace.

Having said that, I recently learned about Paul Johnsons system of using a metal table top and magnets. he goes into great detail about the system here : http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm

I can not give any feedback, as I've not yet used it, but those who do RAVE about it, and if you're starting a shop from scratch, it may well be worth looking into. When I'm done with the big Pitts S2S on my table right now, I'll certainly be giving Paul's system a try on my next one.

Hope some of the helps!

Edit : Sorry, Tim! We were typing at the same time...didn't mean to double up on your suggestion of the sander.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

N/P gboulton...

I do agree with your assessment of the Delta tools. Not necessarily the best quality in terms of strength for regular household/commercial type work. But from a modeling standpoint they are very well suited for modeling work on airplanes etc. With the three listed tools that I mentioned it's allowed me to be very creating with my kit building and the tools have allowed me to do some very precise work. Building of a few jig's and fences that work with the power tools make them even better...

In my shop I used the proverbial door desks which if properly support will keep your wings and fuselages incredibly straight.

One piece that we should probably mention is to make sure you have some sort of ventilation or filtering system to clear out the dust and fumes. I've been building models for a long time and now starting to find myself a little sensitive to balsa dust and the fumes from the CA type glues. From what I'm told it is a compounding type issue that if your not careful will have some long term negative affects. I took action with my situation and fashioned a vent system using the typical type box fans with common furnace filters to catch the balsa dust. It's drastically improved my building time.

Get good lighting too so that your not building shadows. The 4' shop lites work great and are cheap and easy to hang....


Tim

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

A band saw is great to have, but It's nice to have a scroll saw so you can easily remove the blade for cutting inside areas.

The next tool I couldn't live without is one of these belt/disk sanders.

I have one of these, but I have the belt mounted in the vertical position:

http://www.ryobitools.com/powertools/tool/bd4600/

(Available at Home Depot)

rheauljj

Thanks everyone for all the valuable advice. Having been away from the hobby for years...I find using the RC Universe forum to get a consensus of information, as probably the best advance in the hobby to date. Getting this valuable information was always very difficult to get 12-15 years ago.

I've got some shopping to do.

saramos

For a building surface, I use a metal topped island inspired by Paul Johnson. The base is from a couple of Gorilla brand shelf units. The to is a 4' x 8' torsion box made from MDF and pine and is topped with a sheet of 16 guage cold rolled steel. For power tools, as everyone else, I use the band saw, drill press and bench sander the most (outside of my dremels). I have a scroll saw, but don't use it much. I would probably use it more if I scratch built. I also have a couple of lasers.

A few other items i use are a good soldering station.
A mini chop saw I got at Harbor for about $30.
Fourmost precision miter sander.
Permagrit tools are great, but expensive, but great.
A good assortment of straight edges and rules, both steel and plasitc.
lots of clamps.
If you are setting up in a garage, be sure to get double the amount of lights you think you will need. I have 5 4' twin bulb florescent lights, but I could use a couple more, and that's with white walls.
A radio/cd/mp3 player.

A few specialty items, not needed by everyone would be:
Lathe
Mill
Vaccume forming setup
Vaccume bagging setup
Foam cutter
CNC cutter

Scott

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Dremil. Its the tool I use the most. Gotta get the rightangle adapter too. I also agree on all the tools mentioned except the size of the band saw. I dont know how many times I wished I had a deeper throat on my bandsaw and its about 11" right now. The 1" verticle belt sander is the second most used tool.
Edwin

jbarnes

I'm surprised nobody is using the mini table saw's. I have on and love the thing. Works great for cutting strips of ply or balsa. Key item you need is floor space so you can keep buying all these tools that eveyone suggests!

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I had one of the old Dremel mini table saw and loved it with exception of not being able to find belts for it any more and subsequently retired it from service and switched to using a band saw with a fence. What do folks recommend for a mini table saw these days?

Tim

tlrascal

My Feedback: (56)

There is a 4" mini table saw at Harbor Freight. You will love this. You can temporary CA glue fences in place to rip stock and it will cut aluminum stock, flat and angle. Got to have a Slot Machine. I use cork for my building surface aand a big sheet of glass for cutting covering.

saramos

Speaking of a slot machine, I forgot to mention another tool that's great for rough shaping is the Great Planes Planer. With the dremel are a number of bits I like. I like the coarse and fine structured tooth tungston carbide bits. Also a diamond drum sander the size of the large drum sanders. I also like the 2" diamond cutoff wheel.

Scott

meaden

I agree with a Dremel too, very handy and a good value. Mine is 10-15 years old. I would buy the bit sets though they seem to be a little cheaper overall than many individual bits. Mine is corded. I've looked at the cordless but the last thing I need is another battery to charge.

Not a tool or equipment but a good stash of balsa and ply stock in regularly used dimensions. I've had good luck getting stock from BalsaUSA. A large box (an old kit box works great) for a scrap bin. You can get plenty of "just the right size" wood from the scrap bin, or at the least epoxy mixing sticks.

Fasteners...it's a pain not to have a screw or a lock nut when you need it. RTL Fasteners Master Modelers set is awesome. More than enough to build many models an cheaper than other sources. Great people to deal with too.

skyhawk172n

My Feedback: (3)

Tim,
In regards to the Dremel table saw, Micro-Mark tools has the belts and blades available. I recently bought both to update my saw, and they are great!

Roy Aultman

old git

Been retired some ten years now. Built a double garage fully plastered and insulated with six double striplights, 20 13A sockets and 4 30A sockets. I gave away (to my son) nearly all my car related tools and filled it with full size woodworking machinery. Since then I have filled it with everything that has been mentioned and then some. All the walls are covered in storage space (full), to even switch the extractor on I have to move the rolling tool cabinet. To use any machine means moving everything else to make it the focus of the limited space.

Multi purpose tools are a bind to use, dedicated single function tools are preferable and more efficient, that has been my principle, as a result I cannot move for gear!

I went to drill a hole the other day, there were six discharged battery drills and I had to try to find one of the corded drills. I have lists on the door showing where all the small & not so small things are stored.

YOU CANNOT HAVE ENOUGH TOOLS, YOU MAY ALSO HAVE TOO MANY AT THE SAME TIME!

Up and over doors mean you cannot use that part of the ceiling/roof, anyway, hanging models in a workshop invites damage to the models.

Best of luck!

P.S. Never have a workshop without a damp proof course.



old git - - - - - - aka John L.

Red B.

I have a Proxxon table saw that I use a lot for cutting plywood and for ripping balsa sheet into strips. It is a very versatile tool that is excellent for precision work. It appears that the same saw is available from [link=http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80463]Mikro Mark[/link] in the U.S.



/Red B.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

So far everything mentioned. I use my scrool saw and 4 inch belt sander the most. What I haven't seen mentioned yet is the big vise and bench grinder. I use the vise A lot for bending landing gear and doing A lot of the heavy soldering.
Most of the bigger items isn't anything you need for kit building but once you have it then it's going to be used, couldn't get along without my sander!!

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

So back to a question I had in an earlier post...

What are you all doing for ventilation of you work area's?


Tim

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

The power tools I'm using the most lately are.

Band saw.. I have a Hitachi 13" bandsaw.. It's a Cast iron saw I bought for wood working..

Table Saw Ryobi BT3100.. Works great for cutting hardwood landing gear blocks and 1/4" ply.

Router Table.. I don't know of many other people using a router table.
I have a Hitachi M12V router mounted in a table.(again bought for woodworking but great for hobby use)
A 3.5hp router is a bit overkill for balsa but it's the basic idea of using a router that I like.
I use the 1/8" rounder over bit to make rounded edges of control surfaces.
the 45 deg bevel bit is great for cutting perfect hinge bevels.

Cordless Hand Drill.. Most any will do.. I have a Dewalt 12v
Brad point and Forstner bits are great to have around

Bench Grinder.. I have one.. I don't use it mich

Dremmel tool.. Have it.. Don't use it much but it can be very handy to have when I do need it.

Work bench..

5' kitchen Island Counter top.. Got it from the Habitat for Humanity Re-Store for $15
It fits my B&D workmate like it was made for it. I'll make a bench to hold it later..

I've had great results simply taping parts to the counter top with blue masking tape.
Cut up ziplock bags do a great job of keeping the parts from getting glued to the counter top.

For hand cutting I have a couple $2 HDPE kitchen cutting boards from Target.
A Zona razor saw and miter box does most of the small cutting and miter jobs.

I keep a few rubber sanding blocks with different grits around.. You can get the 6" adhesive backed DA sanding disks and just slap em on..
Works great. I like to keep blocks with 120 and 220 grits handy.


I also have a little old Stanley block plane. Properly sharpened it will cut and shape just an fine as a razor plane but it's way more adjustable.

weathervane

I am putting a dryer vent/outlet in one of my glassblock windows. I will run a flex hose over to my bench area with a small inline fan. It should move enough air to keep the smell down.

Andrew

chas smi

the best surface i found for the top of my work bench is the 2ft x 4ft drop in ceiling tiles. thay are easey to pin into and thay form to the table. so if you have a flat table your ready to go.thay dont cost a lot so if you destroy one in the process of building you can easely replace it.