jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

Day 1: It has taken me nearly three months to get to this point, but here is my Nieuport.

BTW - This is supposed to be funny.

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

You can see the rest of the plane better in this shot.

Really though, it takes a good bit of pondering and worrying before you can start cutting and glueing.

Jeff

hag

My Feedback: (2)

What Nieuport 28 kit is this? I'm just about done with my Pilot N28. 56" span, 70 Surpass. Yours looks like gas burner size. BUSA?

Tom Hagler, Oroville, CA

Jaguar-RCU

Nicely done!<wink> What an organized and neat work area-that makes me sick! Now its time to "fish, or cut bait" as they say around here.... and ya, what kit (maker) is that.

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

It is a Proctor kit. I picked it up on eBay from Shalish Patel. I poked around and found out he has an excellent reputation as a good guy and a jet RC flyer. I am pretty careful about eBay purchases. Saved about $150 bucks or so.

Clean work area LOL! Wait till I tell my wife that one. It took me an hour to move things around so that the photo would not be an embarrasment to my ancestors. Note the tight view in both pictures. If I had zoomed out any further you would have seen my true slobby nature. The floor is piled high with debris and detritus from the last two kits I built. When my head starts hitting the ceiling I will see if the vacuum still works, if I can find it. I guess I will have to take a shot of the rest of the garage to I don't project a false image.

ElectRick

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Tom, mind if I ask you what your Pilot Nieuport 28 weighs? I am just beginning to build one to convert to electric power, and I could really use a finished weight number for the glow powered version, so I can subtract a known weight for the OS 70 plus fuel tank/plumbing, and have a number to plug into my electric motor calculator program for selecting gear ratio, cell numbers, etc.

Thanks,
Rick

hag

My Feedback: (2)

Rick;
103.4 oz (6.46 lb.) before paint. That's with two Williams Bros guns, wheels, engine, everything but the paint. I's going to gain a bit with five color rustoleum camo. Good luck with your E version.

TerrellFlyer

Since it has been laying around for a while,didn't know if you noticed those two termites on the top left corner of the table,think one has a knife or spoon and the other has??

ElectRick

My Feedback: (2)

Wow Tom, that's pretty light, considering what the instructions said it would weigh. This is good news. Did you do anything to lighten it, like substitute or omit any heavy wood, drill holes, etc? Also, what did you use to cover with? I want to use Solartex, but it is a bit heavy. However...if I can build mine to this light weight, I'll sacrifice a few ounces to get the fabric look.
Thanks for the reply, and I'll post pics of mine here when completed, to show what's possible with electrics nowadays.

Rick

P.S. I have a second Pilot Nieuport 28 kit that I plan to put a .52 4-stroke in, so I can have the best of both worlds. ;-)

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

No one asked, but the Proctor kit is quite heavy compared to other 1/4 scale WWI birds. 15.5 - 16lbs is the stated range. I think the BUSA version is 12 to 14 lbs. I have resolved to lighten it as much as I can without causing structural weakness but it is not easy. The fact that it is built very much like the original N28 makes it heavier. I am not an engineer so understanding the effects of weight reducing efforts on structural integrity is not something I can do on anything other than an instinctive level. Much spruce and ply and little balsa makes for a heavier plane.

The aluminum rod included to simulate the cable used throughout the fuselage adds just about 3 oz and no strength so I left it out. I am shaping the fuse cross pieces to scale shape to lighten them a bit. There are a few places where I can scollop formers between stringers and the leading edge sheeting can be scolloped (both like the original).

Anyone have any suggestions about adding lightness? What covering would be lightest but still look like fabricc? Super Coverite? Solartex? Koverall?

Jeff

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

On the first page of the Proctor N28 instructions I found several errors. Does anyone have a list of errors from the kit. I resolved the ones I found by comparing the instructions, the plans and the photos looking for evidence.

What I have found so far:

Step #1 describes gluing longerons together as #1 to #1. IT is actually #1 to #2 for lower and #2 to #2 for upper.

one of the forward fuse cross pieces between the top longerons (#7?, #17? can't remember) is not listed in the instructions but in the photo it is clearly installed prior to connecting the top and bottom longeron assemblies.

THat is on the first page. Just got to page 2 last night. I am making a list and will post it as I go. I am taking photos too if anyone is interested in seeing them.

Jeff

ElectRick

My Feedback: (2)

This info might be of some use on covering weights:

The following table will give you some idea of the variation in weight between different coiverings

0z/sqft Name Heat

1. 0.07 light modelspan
2. 0.07 Airspan
3. 0.07 Airspan
4. 0.09 LiteSpan Low
5. 0.11 Supercoat, Sig
6. 0.11 Indy RC film, Indy RC
7. 0.11 Micafilm
8. 0.12 Supercoat, Sig
9. 0.12 Mylar Laminating Film High
10. 0.13 AeroSpan Transparent Low
11. 0.13 Solarfilm, ? Low
12. 0.13 Supercoat, Sig
13. 0.14 Fibafilm, ?
14. 0.14 S. Monokote, Top Flite
15. 0.14 Black Baron, Coverite
16. 0.14 Oracover lite
17. 0.17 Fabrikote, Top Flite red
18. 0.17 Fibrefilm
19. 0.18 Skysail
20. 0.18 Silkspan cover
21. 0.19 Transparent Monokote High
22. 0.19 S. Monokote, Top Flite
23. 0.19 Supercoat, Sig
24. 0.20 Econokote Low
25. 0.20 Graupner synth silk cover
26. 0.20 S. Monokote, Top Flite
27. 0.21 dress silk nylon cover
28. 0.21 Esaki silk cover`
29. 0.23 Super, Coverite
30. 0.23 Silkspun, Coverite
31. 0.24 Jap cover
32. 0.24 Colored
33. 0.25 Monokote High
34. 0.25 Opaques Monokote
35. 0.26 Ultracote, Goldberg
36. 0.26 Coverite 21st Cent
37. 0.26 Coverite 21st Century Film
38. 0.27 Coverite White
39. 0.27 Permagloss, Coverite
40. 0.27 White Super Coverite
41. 0.30 Coverite Colored
42. 0.30 Colored Super Coverite
43. 0.30 SolarCote
44. 0.33 Solar film
45. 0.33 Ecofilm
46. 0.39 SolarTex
47. 0.50 GlossTex
48. EasyTex

I make no claims for the accuracy of this information, since it is from someone else's website.

Rick

Vulturetec

Jeff:

RE:"The aluminum rod included to simulate the cable used throughout the fuselage "

What rod are you talking about? My kit doesn't have that, but I do have the typical proctor thin bamboo cross-bracing material.

The difference in strength between having the bamboo cross-bracing properly installed and not having it is like night and day. The Nieuport 11 is a square fuse unlike the '28, and when I built it I was disappointed at how flimsy it was, but with all the cross-bracing installed the fuselage is absolutely rock solid.

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

Construction details of the n11 and n28 fuselages are very different. In the n28, the original used many tensioned cable x-braces within the fuselage. Here is a shot of the real thing:



The Proctor uses small diameter aluminum rod stock to simulate the cables. They are only cemented at one end of the rod and can't provide anything but looks and weight. They DO look good though.

Jeff

2 Piece

My Feedback: (8)

jwc, I wouldn't worry about lighting up the plane at all. It has a proven track record. It flies great. Yes there are some problems throughout the direction book, but you should be able to work through them by studying the plans and 3 views.
2 Piece

Vulturetec

Jeff:

Interesting - My N.28 kit uses Bamboo, not aluminum rod. Otherwise, you're right - the rounded formers and stringers probably give the N28 strength and stiffness that the N11 doesn't have. Otherwise the box structure behind the rounded formers is similar to the N11 with the same typical hard wire-and-turnbuckle bracing (the picture is actually a Nieuport 16, but the construction in the rear fuse is the same):

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

I promised a picture of my messy shop but I actually cleaned it the other day (half way anyhow).
Here are a few views including the Proctor Fuse section I am working on.









As you can see, I put the wires in the fuselage after all. I will know they are there even if no one else does.

Jeff

Intruder38

Now that's more like a real shop! A real man always has to put 5 pounds of tools and stuff into a 2 pound shop.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Jeff, Don't worry too much about weight on this airplane. I had one years ago built stock and a friend just finished his. His weighs inat 18lbs with 13/4lbs of lead in the nose. His is a real floater on landing and flies great. He has a Saito 1.50 for power and it is overkill. This is one of the best flying Proctor kits, you won't be disapointed. Keep everything straight and take your time. As for covering Solortex is one of the best. Also check out water base acrylics at your local craft store. I'll get a picture of my friend's and post it here next week. We are going out on a dawn patrol when the weather gets nice. See if my Proctor D-7 can wip his 28. Don

Stargazer

My Feedback: (3)

Hey!! - I'm (slowly) building one of these also, going to use a saito 182 twin in her, I also used the bracing wire and not only that, I'm staining the woods too! I know its not gonna be seen after being covered but it sure does look great during the build - I have been tinkering for about 5 months off and on. Every one that sees it really likes the contrast in the different woods - I may hold off covering it for some time. One of those "Labor of Love" projects. Between all the ARF's I have been building I must say this kit is much more enjoyable and satisfying in the "craftsmanship" sense

jchumley

My Feedback: (1)

ASAT:

I thought about staining the wood but decided against it for no particular reason. This is definitely going to be a flyer. I Know it is inconsistent to include the wires and not stain the wood but I never claimed to be consistant.

How long is the Saito .182? It looks like a long engine. Seems to me there is only about 5 1/4" from the firewall to the back of the prop. Could be wrong. I hope to use an RCV .120 for power but I also have a 33cc Homelite. I have plenty of time to decide which one to use.

Are you going to model a particular plane? I am leaning toward the James Meissner plane since they have it in the Air and Space museum collection. I went through the restoration archives and made copies of some of the materials and got the name of the guy who did most of the restoration work. I haven't called him yet but I will.

Jeff

Stargazer

My Feedback: (3)

JWC - The 182 is @ 4.25 in. from the back of the mount to the front of the prop mount, should fit great, and sound / fly great too. I was thinking about a gas engine but I got this right here on RCU for $425 and it will look better with the dummy motor on the front. I really like the Navy Trainer version (for some reason the grey just looks good to me) but I will probably do one of the camo schemes - dont have my windsock file with me but I like the one that is more tan on the bottom of the A/C - I don't really care for all that dark green on some of the schemes. I really like the Proctor kit, I am trying to convince myself to get their D VII, or maybe the DRI or DVIII from Torrence. BTW - do you think any of the Torrence 1/4 scale cockpit kits could be adapted / changed to look like the nieuport furnishings? He sure has some nice details for the Fokker's. Do you have any good pics of the real cockpit of the N-28? I havent found anything yet.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Guys, Go to www.angelfire.com/va2/aerodrome/ for some great pics. Click on the Nieuport page for some great pics, cockpit too. Glenn Torrance has some nice stuff like seatbelts that can be used on the Nieuport also thin leather for the cockpit coaming. ASAT I have a Proctor Fokker D-7 and it is magnificent. Mine is powered with a Laser 3.00 v-twin. I also have a Torrance DR1 kit. The Proctor is much better and the Torrance cockpit stuff fits great with a little modification. Don

Stargazer

My Feedback: (3)

Pitts - is that the DVII in the Pic? With the Torrence stuff?

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Yes I used his seat and belts, ammobox and chutes and also his lozenge fabric on the inside of the cockpit. The compass is from Airizona Models but Glenn has one now. He didn't have the rest of the cockpit stuff last year but now has a complete kit with stick, rudder bar and throttle. The only thing you would be able to use on the 28 is the belts and leather for the cockpit coaming. The 28 had instruments scattered all over on a shelf in the cockpit. It was also a small airplane so you can't see much if you have a pilot in there. Don