jhcorsair

Good morning all,

1. I'm building a Spitfire (of course) and the wing sheeting on the trailing edge adjacent to the aileron outboard tip has fallen short of the aileron trailing edge. What's the best method of of building this up to match the aileron trailing edge?

2. Does anyone have any comments on the thin paper-like hinges that come with the kit?

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

Not sure about your sheeting issue other than to hopefully set in a scrap piece of sheeting to fill the void. As for the hinge sheet you mentioned. They are CA hinges from the sound of it. You would cut the sheet into squares and after cutting slots in your flying surfaces, the hinges are inserted and then you apply thin CA to both sides and they are forever glued it. If this was my plane, I would toss the CA hinges on the work bench and use some Dubro hinges. I think that 60 size planes are a bit big for the CA hinges, however there are those that think CA hinges are good for everything. Just personal prefence I suppose. If you could post a pic of your sheeting problem, we could maybe be more helpful with a solution. Good Luck, Dave

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I used the CA hinges on everything but the elevator on my TF Spitfire they are fine for 60 size planes any larger and I would use Robart hinge points if I remember there is a small triangle where the sheeting doesn't cover there,just patch in a small piece of balsa sheeting to cover the void.
a picture also helps for sure.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

Has the wing sheeting been glued in place? How much shortfall are you looking at? If it's very small, consider trimming down the aileron to fit the wing. Maybe you could be more specific?

rustypep

My Feedback: (6)

I had the same issue when I was building this kit. The die cut ribs weren't long enough in that area and you don't know it until it is too late (after the ailerons are built). I sanded these areas back until I had a large enough area where I could glue in some hard balsa blocks between the aileron and wing tips. Then I sanded them to shape and hardened the edges with thin CA. You could also sandwich two balsa blocks around a 1/64 ply center to help protect that edge from dings just like they did with the wing tips in the kit.

jhcorsair

Thanks Rusty, I think that will work fine.

jhcorsair

Another important question about the build ..........will an OS 70 Surpass be enough engine for this airplane?

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

I am thinking that the OS 70 is not going to be enough power. Good Luck, Dave

jhcorsair

How about an OS 90? (the earlier line of OS 4 strokes). I heard that they're not much more powerfull that the 70.

andernamen

My Feedback: (3)

I don't have specific experience with this plane, but have a TF Corsair and P-40. My P-40 has barely enough power with a ST .75 2-stroke at 10 lbs. I think the OS .90 4-stoke would be plenty, but most of these planes seem to have 1.20's in them. I think the Spitfire is a little smaller, so an OS .90 would work. Try it first, you can always upgrade later if you want more performance. Good luck.

saramos

An OS 90 should be fine, and will fit better than a 120. The nose of the Spitfire is pretty narrow.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I dont know, a .90 4-stroke on a 10lb plane might be a little anemic. (just my opinion) It would fly scale like, I imagine. Maybe a saito 100. Something I've taken to doing on my 4-stroke exhaust systems is using a 90deg pipe on the head, then using the stock pipe and then muffler. Worked great on my H9 P-40 and concelled it pretty good. It helps lineing up the muffler on the fuse center line. Its a OS.90fs, the plane weighs in at 7lbs 10oz and flys pretty spirited with that setup. Didnt notice any power loss at all. I'm not sure it would fly the same if the plane weighed 10lbs.
Edwin

rustypep

My Feedback: (6)

Engine choice is another difficult decision with this bird. It builds tail heavy and with the lead necessary to balance it usually leads to a 10lb+ plane which requires a little more power for most. I am planning for a Saito 91 mainly because anything larger really sticks out of the cowl. My original plan was to use an 82 but in the end I am probably going to need the nose weight so in goes the 91. I am hoping with all the changes I made to reduce tail weight that I come in closer to 9 lbs but it is too early to tell. I keep adding details which keeps adding weight. If you are a YS fan you might want to consider a 110 or build light and use a 63. The other issue is that you are limited in tank size so if you go larger you either have to modify the front of the fuse to hold a bigger tank or live with shorter flights. The tank size that is recommended and fits is only 12 oz.

jhcorsair

Good afternoon gentlemen and thanks for all of the helpfull info on this build. I have another question for you, will the difference in thickness between the stab and the elevator result in any flight problems? (Should I fix this or leave it alone)?

saramos

I was fortunate to not have this problem with my older kit. From what I have seen from others who have posted on this issue, the condenses, including replies from Top Flite tech support, is to correct the problem.

Scott

rustypep

My Feedback: (6)

I agree. If you haven't built the elevator it is a really simple fix. Just cut out a new leading edge for both elevators. I didn't notice it until the elevators were build so I used some scraps of contest grade balsa to build it back up and to keep it light.

jhcorsair

Unfortunately, it's built so I'll have to build it up as you suggested.

Thank you for your thoughts.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I'm building the same plane, the elevator short fall works in my favor. I'm going for a more scale hinge line. I'll be using a small length of triangle stock on the top and bottom of the trailing edges, then I'll sand them to make a "pocket" for the leading edge of the control surface. So the narrow LE of the elevators really helps me out.

jhcorsair

Hughes, can you send me some pics please? I think I know what your going to do but pics would be great if you can post them.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

This is the best full scale picture I found on the net. My book has better but this will give you the idea.

jhcorsair

Ok, here we go with silver soldering. The instructions call for silver soldering a piece of brass tubing to the steering arm of the tailwheel. My first and second attempts were disastrous.......I almost melted the plastic mounting bracket and the solder had no intentions of sticking to the parts. I cleaned the wire with sandpaper and used flux on both pieces but both attempts failed. I would appreciate some expert advise on how to join these two pieces.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Sound like not enough heat. I use a 75watt solder iron.
Edwin

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I have a small butane pen torch. Make sure you heat the thicker of the two materials first. The brass will be ready right away!