N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hmmmm, I just ran into something interesting...

I just weighed my TT Pro 40 with muffler at 486 grams. Then I weighed my Saito .56 at 456 grams. I expected them to be in the same ballpark, but never expected the Saito to weigh less. That might mean that i can't use the tailwheel that I had wanted to do. Might have to stick with the stock 'wheel in the rudder' design.

Bob

Alex7403

Bob,
original wheel in the rudder is the worst thing you can do, It’s not the four star design.
Until you decide if it will be a tail dragger or trike you can build for both, that’s what many do.

Alex

Alex7403

The battery need to sit behind the servos for balancing the motor, with OS 46 its tail heavy otherwise.

First picture i’m planning the battery location and the servo tray.
An antenna tube need to be inserted eventually

My wife is getting me a dremel for my birthday, I need it for plywood servo tray, so I’ll imagine it with futaba servo tray and then squeeze in a ply wood tray.

I’m getting nuts with details and glue
This time the support for the landing gear base is being glued, they need to be tight with everything around them no gaps.
I found a funny way to press the triangular spur against something in this tight space.
The drinking straws are for not to fill the holes with epoxy.
Later on I’ll place there a fiberglass tape from wall to wall to hold it to the fuse, I don’t know if its good to hold it so tight that the landing gear wont come off under any circumstances.

full rudder

Close enough on the motor, in the picture it's a O.S. 40FP, it was replaced by an MDS .48 later on, the FP
just didn't have the guts for verticals but the MDS really did. The scheme I was aiming for back then was
early reno racers (hence the checker bottom). I always did think that the mid star would look pretty good
in BF109 colors....

Full Rudder
--------------------
Any resemblance to the drawing is pure coincidence...

Alex7403

I made a big mistake during the build with the fire wall, its looking left about 3 degrees so I added a popsicle stick under the left motor mount and sanded it, now the are even and looking straight.

Painted the engine compartment with epoxy first the aero gloss, this way no oil will be absorbed in the fire wall and connections to the fuse.

The holes for the motor mount were covered with tape to avoid epoxy, its breaking easy with the screws.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, Alex and full. Just trying to be weight conscious (in regards to the tail wheel). My thoughts is that it's not on the ground that long anyway, just for taxi and TO. Never had a problem with any I've put in (so far, at least).

As far as that photo with the clamps, that is CLEVER... I'll ahve to get a couple of those clamps with square corners. That is one very slick idea. Where did you get that style of clamp?

As for the latest idea on a color scheme, I came across some wheel pants for a GP Super Sportster Mk II at http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2139&search=Go . Hmmm, white and Insignia blue with red and orange trim. I may have to make a respectable covering scheme after all....

Thanks for the ideas so far,

Bob

Alex7403

thanks Bob,

Because of weight I took the front wheel off.
The tail wheel bracket that comes with the kit is a sad joke, its just getting stuck in the rudder only, and what is being used is this (sorry for the after market announcement)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV47&P=7


wheel pants: I intend to buy and use the four star 40 ones, it’s a similar landing gear with the same bolt pattern for the same 2-3/4” wheels.
I’ll get them from sig directly www.sigmfg.com
Also additional engine mounts you can buy only from sig, they are good and cheap though.
motor mounts i'm buying only from them it comes with hardware, i mange to spoil one pair of mounts every build...

Sig’s customer service is very good, they sent me a new wing for 4*40 even it wasn’t their fault.

Who asked me if it’s the same profile as the four star 40, it is, I just placed 4*40 wing on the plans and beside 1/4 “ shorter because of ailerons its identical.

Color scheme now I’m at neon green bottom wing and fuse and insignia blue top, maybe cub yellow I have some pieces of it….

Alex

Alex7403

the perv mid star was missing 2 oz on the tail with trike, means with a light weight motor no need replace batt...... this is very good if it will work.
There are no weight issues with the mid star I flew it on ¾ of a throttle for takeoffs on OS 46 AX, it’s a very gentle airplane.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Great pics! Thanks for sharing.

Always interesting to see how folks do their builds. Can add tools to one's toolbox so to speak.

somegeek

iron eagel

Bob,
I have to agree with Alex about the rudder mounted tail wheel I have had problems with that myself before. It puts a lot of stress on the rudder and mounting I have had a rudder depart the airplane on takeoff using ca hinges with the tail wheel on the rudder. On my Something extra I am going to use the (Dubro Semi-Scale Tailwheel System Size 20-60 DUB955 #25511) it weighs 18 grams or so.

Worse case you have to a 1/2 an ounce or so up forward, my favorite method is to use the weights like the control lines guy use that go behind the prop nut. It helps make for a smother idle although it does slow the spool up and down of the motor a bit but I am not looking for a fast response on the throttle.

Alex nice use of the clamps I will have to remember that setup for internal clamping, along with the straws, nice work!

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Paul and Alex,

Alex I have one of those Sullivan tailwheel units. I didn't like it because of the spring that is used as a tiller. Other than that, the unit is nice and light. I'd just substitute a piece of straight wire into a tube on the bottom of the fin to act as a tiller.

Those add-on units are better, I have to agree. My plan is to use one if the counterbalance doesn't add too much weight. That can be the last thing that I add on.

Paul, how is the SE coming along? I know that it's only been a few days... just curious if you had had an opportunity to make significant progress on it.

Bob

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Another comment that I meant to make.... I'll probably build it such that I can convert it to trike gear if I want to goof off and play with it some day.

With two sets of holes for Tee nuts for the LG, I wonder if anyone has ever given any thought to flying this thing off of floats???

Hmmm, after re-looking at the photos in Post 52, it appears that the LG mounting holes are spaced too closely together to use them for floats...

I'll probably take another look at my Rascal for the floats, then...

Bob

MasterAlex

Alex

Here are the pics of my Mid-Star that I referenced a few posts back. Kinda looks naked without an engine up front. I have a TT .46 PRO to throw up there which ought to be plenty for this airplane. I got the idea for the flag from this thread on RCU in case you're interested ([link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_603331/anchors_603331/mpage_1/key_flag/anchor/tm.htm#603331]3D Flag[/link]). This was my first time using the "windex" method and am pleased with the results. Could it be better? Sure ... but for my first try I think it'll pass . It took me forever to complete the pattern, but I am a naturally slow builder.

Anyway, keep it up. I wish I had the patience to post pictures during a build - thanks to people like you, we can all learn new tricks ... even some of us "old dogs" [sm=lol.gif]!

-MA

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Really nice covering design, especially with the use of the transparent blue and red. I was thinking about blue & white for mine with some red trim. After seeing yours, I might use some of that transparent blue that you used.

Nice work!

Bob

Alex7403

Hi,

wow nice covering job MA,

Question: does the transparent blue has the same tone as the insignia blue?
Means if I put the near each other, will I see difference in tone besides the transparency?
I was thinking to make top wing in transparent blue and fuse insignia blue.

In pictures i’m gluing the servo tray holds, I’ll see what sits better, the futaba plastic one or cut out of 1/8 ply wood for a tray.

I got from Sig the wheel pants of four star 40 ARF, they came with inner plastic with ply wood and blind nuts already in place, had to sand/enlarge with a file the holes in the aluminum LG about 2 mm to fit the holes.

I have some lusterkote paint of insignia blue which I meant to paint the LG.
its not attached yet, its 29 F degrees outside and windy [].

Alex

MasterAlex

Thanks Bob! I had so much transparent Red/Blue left over after the flag that I figured "what the heck" ... might as well use it. There are a couple of guys in my club that have planes with transparent wings and I think they look cool.

-MA

MasterAlex

Sorry Alex, I am not familiar with Insignia Blue. Hopefully someone who's used both can chime in here.

-MA

Alex7403

The fuel tank compartment is being assembled.
Foam for holding the fuel tank was working for me so far just trying more elegant setup for the fuel tank.
I used 5 min epoxy to formulate the shape around the tank, its kicking in faster.
Added tape so there will be corners to hold the glue.
Filler valve was added and I’m gonna use it just to fill and empty the tank not to carb.

azfly4fun

I just order the Mid Star 40 from Tower Hobbies for XMAS. I'm glad I found this thread. Alot of good info here. I know you guys are glow power flyers but this one is going to be Electric. I will post picts and Electric Conversion Info if anyone is interested. Wish me luck.

David

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

AZFLY4FUN,

I know that I would be interested. I converted my Twist 40 and had great luck - I imagine that a plane like this would be just as good. I'd like to follow your progress.

I might make one suggestion though... before you commit to electric power, make sure that you can fit a battery into the available space that you have. I had very limited space in my Twist 40 and was lucky to find a 15C 4S battery that worked out.

My Mid-Star just came in to my LHS today (he charges me the TH price anyway) so I'm going to get to work on it this winter. I have a choice of two engines for it - a TT Pro 46 or a Saito .56 with a 12x6 prop. I've seen a fellow club member/friend fly one with that same Saito combination and it flies slick. But, I've also seen my old 4-Star 40 fly with that TT Pro 46 and liked it (I consider the Mid-Star and the Four-Star to be essentially in the same class).

OK, let's vote. Who has a preference for whether I should fly the 2S or the 4S engine? You can't vote unless you give me a good reason why!!

I'll be interested in how your conversion goes, AZ. Keep us all in the loop,

Bob

Alex7403

Bob and David,
In post #5 before you glue the fuse inner part, thats when you need to decide what fuel tank you are gonna use.
If its Dubro 8S as instructed you don’t need to change anything.
After that stage changing the tank floor becomes complicated.

As for motors, I put on mine OS 46 AX, it takes off with ¾ throttle swinging 11X7 prop.
I’ll put the OS 46 that I have with 11X6 prop this time.

In my opinion
I would use 2 stroke because of location of the throttle on left side on 4 stroke motor.
If the exhaust is on the right side then the switch, voltmeter, filler valve is on the left and in addition to add the throttle cable into there, it’s a recipe for a wire spaghetti.

On the other hand 4 stroke motor produces much less crap from its muffler, in my midstar the wing is getting filled with this crap.

Things to think about.

Alex

Alex7403

What do you think about this color scheme?
The covering material gonna be monokote.

Trying to decide if to use neon green or neon orange on bottom.
i'll do the orange, green is very beautiful i intend to use it on 4*60 i'm gonna build this winter.
On top i’m thinking about insignia blue.

UPF-7

Bob,
As far as engines go, either choice is fine. Just keep your prop clearance in mind. The stock gear will not provide "adequate" clearance with a 12" prop. That is my experiance with the taildragger configuration and the Saito 56. Switching to a taller gear made a world of difference. If you look at photo 82 in the instruction manual, you can see the prop doesn't have much clearance.
Alex,
Keep up the good work! Your color schemes look good. I think it's important to use bright contrasting colors when using dark blues. Maintaining orientation with dark colored airplanes can be tricky at times.

Some changes I made during contruction of my Mid-Star 40 included the following.

1. Swapped out the Sig pushrods for Sullivan composites. (As stated previously, the Sig pushrods expand and contract way too much.)
2. Installed dual aileron servos. (Not really necessary, just my preference)
3. Fuselage rudder hinge mod. (After framing up the fuse, I realized that cutting a rudder hinge slot where the plywood fuse halves meet would be a pain and also would not provide much surface area for the CA hinge to hold. My solution was to use a 1" wide sanding block with course paper to sand a 1/2 deep X 1" wide slot at the hinge location. I then glued a block of balsa in the slot and sanded it flush with the fuse sides. This allowed easy hinge slot cutting and plenty of surface area for the CA hinge. Nice and strong, especially if you use the stock tailwheel set-up.
I made a few other small changes but I've probably bored you all to death by now. Mark

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

UPF-7, I thought your face looked familiar, Mark

My kit just arrived but haven't started on it yet. I was wondering if that wing would also fit the Four-Star fuse that I have in the box (kit form) - one wing for two fuses???

Thanks for the heads-up on the hinge slot for the rudder. Nice way to get around that little issue. I'm going to wait till the very last minute to decide on the tailwheel. If I need some extra weight in the back, I'll use a little sullivan bolt-on. If I'm extremely nose-heavy, I might opt for the in-rudder setup.

I'm also doing the dual servos. I wonder if they'll work as airbrakes like they did on my Rascal 40? They make the Rascal float for miles!

Bob

UPF-7

Bob,
The Mid-Star wing may fit a Four-Star fuse saddle but the aileron leads exit the bottom of a Mid-Star wing, not the top like a Four-Star wing. (Shoulder wing vs. low wing) Mark