ChuckW

I've been flying my SS 40 ARF a lot lately and I really like it. It's simple, fast and fun. Having a bigger one sounded kind of nice. The only way to get a bigger one though is to build a kit. problem is, I told myself I'd lay off building for a while. Well, I guess I was wrong. Suddenly I have a Hog Bipe kit, SS-60 kit, SS-90 plans and an US 40 kit on the way. Not knowing which to build first, I'm going for the SS-60.

I got the kit here on RCU. It's older but in great shape. My plan is to use a .75-AX for power. Since I had a little time tonight, I decided to get started. The tail feathers are glued up and drying on one bench and I started building the wing on the other. I opted not to remove the balsa from the lightening holes on ribs 2 & 3. This will hopefully make the area around the LG blocks a little stronger. I'm also modifying the wing just a little for dual aileron servos.

I noticed that the plans and instructions don't show any shear webs. I thought about adding some anyhow but I'm not sure if they'll really help on this wing or not. Anyone have any input? It won't take me long to cut up some 3" wide balsa sheet to make them.

Dr1Driver

Why not go for the .90AX? I believe it's in the same size crankcase and about the same weight as the .75.

As for the shear webbing, you might want to put some 1/16" or 3/32" between the spars, maybe halfway out the wing. You'll be surprised at how much it stiffens the wing. All that being said, the SS design is good and it will fly well with no modifications.

Dr.1

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

It's been a long time but I would have swore my SS60 had sheer webing. I have built three sizes and the bipe though maybe I am just confused. If I was you I would put webing in the first 5 or 6 bays. It can't weigh much and would really make the wing stouter.
The 75 is a great choice. I flew mine with a COMO 61. It had plenty of power. The airframe was so good a broke in a few Super Tigre 90s on it. With the 90 the verticle was better but it wasn't much faster.

David

ChuckW

I'll look at the plans and instructions again but I swore I didn't see any shear webs. I have plenty of 1/16 sheet on hand though so I am going to add them regardless.

ChuckW

I got a little more done tonight. The shear webs are in place and the bottom of the wing is sheeted.

vmsguy

I hope you're thinking of using transparent covering.. It'd be a shame to hide all that nice work...

cstevenpeterson

My Feedback: (21)

That is nice work - the joints looks so clean! What type of glue(s) are you using?

Steve

chashint

I have to agree with the last two posts, that is excellent work.
I am officially jealous.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

A .75 is perfect for the SS60. I have a ST.75 on mine and absolutely love it. The plane failed the 'fly thru the tree test at 90mph', but only broke the wing. The second wing was beefed up quite a bit cause I fly the hell out of this plane. Shear webs out to the tips, 1/4" ply spar joiner at the wing center section, and glassed the center section with 2 oz glass. I also put the gear on the fuse. It looks better on the wing but is more durable on the fuse. When I did the new wing I also trimmed the inside edges of the elevator for more rudder throw. Its a great plane that has finally outlasted two engines, 13 years old. Wore out a OS.61fx and the ST.75. The most fun stunt was to pull verticle on takeoff, climb till almost out of site, dive straight down at full throttle then pull up 50' off the deck. That plane is superman to me. Just love it.
Edwin

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

ChuckW, If you are keeping your main gear in the wing, I recommend that you epoxy a thin (1/8 or less) ply plate to each side of the landing gear block where the wire upright goes to prevent that block from spitting along its grain from torque shock.

It's probably too late, but I also recommend widening out the two elevator halves to allow the rudder to swing out more on each side. It's somewhat restricted otherwise. Best of luck.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I would second the elev half suggestion. Mine would only hold a knife edge with the rudder against the elev. You could also make the rudder 1/2" bigger.

David

ChuckW

I was looking at that last night. It didn't look like their would be much travel. My 40 sized ARF holds a knife edge great as long as it is going fast enough. I definitely plan reshaping the elevators a little to allow for more rudder.

ChuckW

That's called using poor lighting and setting your camera on low resolution. It makes almost anything look good. I'm just using thin and medium CA for most joints and Titebond for edge gluing sheeting & other areas that will be sanded.

I'm going to order my engine tonight. It's a tough choice. The .75-AX was my original plan. I'm so impressed with my .55-AX that the 75 seemed like a logical choice. The .91-FX is roughly the same size and weight though with more power for just a few dollars extra. I'm concerned that the 91 will be overkill though. I know both will perform good, maybe I'll do a coin toss or something.

ChuckW

I settled on the .75-AX and just got done ordering it.

Dr1Driver

I'm concerned that the 91 will be overkill though.

You mean you don't like to pull straight up, firewall it, and ACCELERATE?

Dr.1

ChuckW

Yah, I know I've been thinking about that decision all day.... something tells me the .75 will get the job done though. If I want a little more I can always switch it out for the .91 later.

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

I have an OS. 91 Surpass on mine with a 14x6 APC prop. It is just the right amount of power, seriously. It weighs only 6 pounds and with all of that wing is really a light wing loading. It just feels light both in flying and coming in for a landing.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Mine was a tad nose heavy with the ST.75. I think this refurb I will move the equipment around. Couldnt get it to knife edge being nose heavy as it was.
Edwin

ChuckW

Well, one wing half is done. I'm going to get the tails pieces finished up then start on the other wing. Everything has gone nice and smooth so far, hopefully it will continue that way. I wish the filler pieces near the TE of the wing tip were provided. I was out of 1/4" balsa so I glued up two 1/8" pieces and cut them out on the scroll saw.

outdoorhunting

Chuck-- I finished my SS 60 this spring w/ Super Tigre 75 It's all the you need. Also, shortened the wings 1 bay ( it rolls quicker & doesn't float as bad on landing. By your pics it looks like it's too late to shorten the wings, but do your self a favor, & put in an extra aileron hinge so you can do it later.

ChuckW

Thanks, I already planned on placing the hinges where I could clip the wing later if I decide to. I suppose I could also just build another wing from scratch if I wanted. I had a little time this morning so I went ahead and cut the elevator halves a little to allow for more rudder travel. I didn't make any radical changes. It's just enough to give a few more degrees of rudder throw. I also got the dihedral wedge epoxied in place.

outdoorhunting

Are you putting the landing gear on the wings or on the fuselage ? I put mine on the fus & glad I did, sometimes, well, actually there is a spot on our landing strip where the gravity is about twice the normal strength & it seems like it pulls down harder than other places. I don't think the LG on the wings would hold up !! Well, I guess it could be me-- Nah, it's the gravity!!!! Later Ed

ChuckW

I'm keeping in the wing on this one. Thought about doing it on the fuse but I like the look of it in the wing. I was even going to do retracts but I figured it was just one extra thing to go wrong.

ChuckW

The other wing half is about 50% done. Not much to see, just like the other half.

I noticed that the plans show no right engine thrust. Does this seem to work good or should I give it a couple degrees?

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

That was a concern of mine too. After checking some older magazine reviews and other limited sources no offset is specified. I didn't put any in with my OS91 and didn't notice a real need for any.