rctrax

one thing I might add is that these kits are prone to become tail heavy and when I looked at the material I saw what looked like way too much wood in the tail feathers. I cut it down on a band saw and subed 1/8 x3/8 for spars instead of 3/8x3/8. I also cut some of the ply out of the fus tail section. Then I subed 1/32 sheet instead of1/16 thereby halving the weight in many of these parts. I came out very well being actually a little nose heavy whivh is easy to deal with.

Tee Bee

Looks great, Frenchie. You build much faster than I do. Is there any dihedral in the wing?

frenchie79

I like a guy who cuts weight on a plane, the plane cane be tail heavy and i don't like my Batts and everything shoved under the tank and as far as lead-no way if i can help it. I'm using Dubro Iso Mounts and a cowl this should be fine, I'll show you how i get the plane set up and balance before covering and after.
Tee bee-1 degree, i changed the Dual Tool, must not show in the pictures.

frenchie79

Few things to finish wing-I used Hitec 635 Servos, Sullivan and GP Solder Clasps, And those great Sullivan control horns (steel). Please note in the pictures I use a CA hinge under my control Hornes, Both sides to add strength to the Balsa so it won't crush. Also i coat the servo area with fuel proof paint and Epoxy the Front of the wing-Rub with your finger to apply a lite coat. This adds strength to the balsa. Also i use nothing but Cap head screws with nuts on everything-Thanks RJL.

frenchie79

Next I pre assemble some items to make the build move along-Just like the directions. I'm side mounting the engine and note the use of Dubro Iso Mount Rubber Mount. I put these on alomost everything and they work great-Thanks Dubro. Also throw the Aluminum landing gear away, once again Dubro has a product that won't bend after five landings and gives me a little more height to swing those large props.

STRAUBMAN

Frenchie. Between these posts and my dad, I've opted to NOT sheet the wings. I am going to clip and add a nice tip. I also purchased the same cowl. Can I ask why you are mounting side ways. I was thinking inverted but I understand that sometimes causes run problems. Is that engine able to be mounted in a normal vertical position with that cowl with room for muffler?

frenchie79

Straubman-You probably could mount it upright, but would take away from the look. Inverted would be best as far as look, but I didn't want ANY problems. It really fits quite nice sideways, and gets lot's of air. Just MHO, I'll have some shots up next week.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I suggest using nylon insert locknuts instead of plain nuts.

You can dye that Dubro landing gear if you desire. I used Rit Dye to color mine.

STRAUBMAN

Do you think dye would work better than a spray bomb?

frenchie79

Kmot-Great idea, I was wondering about that. I know paint would only crack in time. How does it dye-color wise I mean. I just did my Canopy with black and that gave a auburn color to the canopy. Not as dark as I wanted-others have worked better.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

It took the dye well. I don't recall exactly, although I probably posted in my 4*60 thread the details about how long and what temp. I think the gear took around 45 minutes to get as black as I wanted it.

I also did my canopy at the same time. I only wanted a slight tint, so I think it was about 15 seconds in the bath.

frenchie79

Looks good-mine came out just a little darker.
Well I built the fuse, staight forward on the directions-just be sure to align everything and tack first and triple check everything.

frenchie79

Here is something i liked to do to many areas when building-I add these special tooth picks as dowel supports. I figure if the furniture guys do it and it lasts why not. Basically I pre drill a tight hole then add med CA to the knurled end of the pick which is round and not tapered, insert and let dry then cut and sand off. Learned this from a buddy and LONG time builder so i can't take credit-Thanks Doc.

frenchie79

Next I finished the tank compartment and set the tank height. Cut the checks on the fuse for the cowl. I like to use really thinned epoxy and paint all areas that could be exposed to fuel.

saramos

When I mounted the vertical stab, I used the same basic idea of the toothpicks but instead of toothpicks, I use bamboo skewers. They're stronger than toothpicks.

Scott

Billy Buckner

I would appreciate knowing where you bought the cowl for your 4*. Thanks

frenchie79

Next I installed the wing-also straight forward follow the directions. I added wax paper over the wing for the dowel supports and I ran a bead of quick set epoxy on the wing saddle to get that perfect fit-no gaps. I feel this relieves small pressure points and distributes the vibrations better (maybe not but like the tooth pick thing it makes me feel warm and fuzzy between the ears.

frenchie79

Bambo is a good choice, i just like the knured edges and consistent thickness, they hold the glue when you push the dowel in.
The cowl came from "Fiberglass Specialties" Google it and you'll find they make lot's of parts. Expensive sucker though!

frenchie79

Built the stab as per the directions.

frenchie79

Next is the Fin and Rudder-I added 1" to the rudder and cut out the extra material.Note the use once again of a CA hinge for support of the control horn-keeps the horn from compressing the balsa. I use Sullivan steel control horns and Cap screws and nuts on most larger planes.

vmsguy

Quick question...

It looks like the trailing edge of the rudder is supposed to extend down to the bottom of the fuselage.

Or am I reading the plans wrong?

Or maybe I missed something in your previous posts..?

frenchie79

Installing the stab and fin.
After attaching the wing, I square both wing halves to the table. I measure the height at the stab area of the fuse and cut two identical blocks and glue them to the glass top table with CA. This puts the stab perfectly in line with the wings. Next I poke a hundred or so holes in the fuse where the stab mounts-gives the epoxy something to bite into. After drying, installed the fin, I also pinned it to the stab and fuse with toothpicks

r2champion

vmsguy, you are reading the plans right, however there is no strength gained by making the trailing edge one solid peice since you have to carve most of it away where the elevator joiner wire goes through. In a sense you are just filling in the gap of the fuse with that peice of trailing edge. Is this correct frenchie?

See Frenchies pic for more detail.

frenchie79

Thats how I see it. I,m either going to leave it or fill with a small peice later. Nice catch vmsguy

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

frenchie79: I really like your idea of using the CA hinge to backup the control horns. It looks like it in the picture, but I can't be sure. Do you wick CA onto the hinge under the control horn?