MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

What Ken said.

And yes, those are Du-Bro control horns. Good chance I'll use them again. I really like only having to drill one hole!

Insanemoondoggie

I think I left before Mike flew the Ultralite. If I remember right , it had a Manum .52 and blue head went well with the color scheme ? Thanks for the info Ken.

Really anxoius to start on mine , but the building boards are full right now. Very soon though . I think the retracts are worth waiting on and that well hold me up some , but should be ready by the time the snows gone.

fstevenj

I guess my question with the gear is how do you set the angle? I understand that you put the rear block against the spar and the front block will be located, but the assembly can still pivot. If you set the angle too deep below the rib the wheels will come out far forward, but may not retract into the bay flat. Did you just set the forward block the same distance below the rib as shown in the plan even though it is one rib outboard?

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

A couple more things Minnflyer and I'll let you get back to building. How long are your flaps going to be on your 60? I left the 2" piece on my wing per plan because of the vortex (flutter) thing they mention so my ailerons are aproximantly 24". I'm guessing leave 9"-10" for flaps? I guess I would really need to remove the torque rod blocks and use that space for flaps too, I have some decisions to make it's crunch time. I am doing some finishing touches to get ready for covering, I'll post a picture or 2 later tonight.

barondebaja

Listening in La Paz.

construyo un US40 .

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

fstevenj, That angle can only be "Eyeballed"

There is a side-view on the plan that you can go by. I actually gave mine a little more angle than called for to rake the gear out a little more. If it needs to be changed, you can always shim the retract.

GR: The flaps on my 40 are 8" and the ailerons are 16" So I am going to cut the 60 ailerons 1/3 of their total length. Your ailerons are 2" shorter, you you'll have to play it by ear.

Baron de Baja: Welcome!

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Minnflyer you talked me into the flaps, I'm going to start hacking right after this post. Except for the flaps and a couple of spots of puddy, it's ready for the covering. BTW, are you going to enclose your wheel wells with foam cups? Not sure I like the sound of it. I left them open on my TF P-47 and painted inside with Testors zink cromate green.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Not foam cups. I fill the two forward rib bays between ribs 2 and 4 with spray-foam insulation. It expands and conforms to the shape and sticks to the wood, so it supports the sheeting very well.

But caution... If anyone wants to do this AFTER both sides have been sheeted, be very careful and add the foam in small amounts at a time. This stuff really expands (to about 6 times its original size) so if you put too much, it will slowly explode the sheeting.

You're much better off doing it some now, let sit overnight, and fill in the next day.

Now for the bad news...

I just had surgery on my nose and the doctor said NO SHOP WORK (He is more concerned with balsa dust than CA fumes) so I may be out of action for a few days

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Minn I hope you heal up fast. I am anxious to hear your flight report on the 60. I have several hundred flight on a 60 and only a few on the 40. The 60 was a much better plane. I would fly it when no one else would fly. I flew at a fly in once when the wind was 30-40 mph. Landing was tricky but the US60 didn't mind the wind one bit. Dragging the rudder through the grass gets up fired up.
On your wheel wells. I normally stand thin sheeting up on end and sand the top off. It takes a little time to find the bottom curve but gives a great result. Do you feel the wing needs the strength of the foam? Or is it just easier to do it your way? I have only done a few of these and I don't like the styro cup method.

David

vmsguy

Hey Mike,

How are you doing?? Getting better, I hope...

Fishin Geezer

MinnFlyer- Sure hope your recovery from surgery is going well and on track.
Couple of questions while you're resting! Re: US 60 build.

Assuming a single aileron servo, how do you connect the aileron pushrods to the servo wheel or arm? I can see that they need to be connected at the same point on the servo output to get opposite throw of each aileron. (I plan to do flaps).

If I decide I can't wait for 3DX to restock the retracts you designed, what's a reasonable substitute? I have zero experience with retracts.

I think it was green river rc that said we need a "special 180 degree servo" for the retracts. I don't understand that. Do you agree and if so, what servo would you recommend? I was planning to use all Airtronics 94102's

I'll much appreciate any help with these questions.

Thanks, Frank

ChuckW

A retract servo is designed especially for the application. It rotates 180 degrees either way with no in between. It isn't proportional like a servo used on a control surface; it's just either "up or down". Once it reaches the end of it's rotation it "shuts off" Most of the servo manufacturers have one or more retract servos in their line-up.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=MAE

I've used the Hitec HS-75 and it seems to work just fine.

Having said that, I don't have a ton of retract experience (just one plane so far). I've never plugged a retract servo into a regular channel and I've never tried using a regular servo for retracts. Maybe someone else has some more input.

dignlivn

MinnFlyer

Mike

Get Well SoooooN.
We're waiting patiently.


Bob

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks guys, but I still feel like crap. It feels like someone implanted a baseball in the front of my head.

Yes, you do need a special retract servo.

I haven't used many retracts besides my own, but the one thing I would say to look for is a set that either has 3/16" wires, or can easily be drilled out to 3/16. To me, the standard 5/32" gear wire is just too weak for retracts.

theo63

hey mike,sorry to hear your not doing well but i dont think its from surgery,i think you are so used to having balsa dust in the nose you are having severe reactions from not being around the bulsa,all kidding aside i await your return to the build as im ahead of you on my 60 but i do not get to work on it that much so i was hoping you get ahead of me

Fishin Geezer

Mike - I'm sure we're all wishing you a quick recovery from the surgery and its painful aftermath.

Mike and ChuckW - Looks like I've got more to learn about retract servos. But instead of hijacking Mike's thread I'll start one of my own on this subject, probably over in the Q & A forum.

thanks, Frank

dhal22

although the photos are not a ultrasport, i much prefer to finish my wheel wells with 1/64" lite ply. very minimal weight gain and looks great after sanding sealer and paint.

vmsguy

While Mike is recovering, hopefully he'll forgive a few more retract questions. Hopefully this thread won't get sidetracked.

I noticed the control for retracts is under the retracting wheel. How do y'all run the control line? Considering the foaming Mike uses, or wood inlays others use, I'm wondering how that's all handled?

When it comes to retracts, I'm a complete neophyte here.. so use plenty of small words...

BTW: I ordered the Robarts 608HD retracts, and a Hitec retract servo. Oh, and since I already have a set of .40 retracts, a SS40 kit. (Tower gave me free shipping)

Insanemoondoggie

Minn also said he had a Play to direct , so between that and his health issues , he did`nt get side tracked, he got blind sided .

Like everyone else , I just hope he geets to feeling better.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Well, I'm feeling a lot better than I was, but still not 100%.

vmsguy, your question is the difinitive one when it comes to mechanical retracts. Usually you need to do some creative bending on the pushrods, but I designed mine so they work with nyrod.

Installing the retract pushrods is the next thing I plan to do, so if I feel up to it, I may do it this weekend and post pics

dixielandsbigal

as many models as i've built and i never have had retracts. this one will be fun to do.

My question is why does it have to be a special servo? why cant I just set up my end points to put it where i want it. does anyone still use pneumatic retracts anymore. thats what my dad always used.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If you use pnumatics you could use a standard servo, but you want a retract servo for mechanicals for the slow speed and extra torque. Plus the fact that when a retract servo reaches its end point, it no longer draws current. A standard servo doesn't draw current only at neutral - and a retract servo is never at "neutral"

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

I finally have some covering on mine. I have been down in my back this week so progress has been slow. BTW Sig Aerokote is crap in case anyone wants to know. "low heat" translates to low adheasion, low stretch, and low shrink.

Minnflyer, where you at on yours?

David

airbusdrvr

Maybe UltraCote for an UltraSport would have been a better choice. I just finished my second kit build, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6775526/tm.htm , and it came out surprisingly well. I used UltraCote on both and I've gotten numerous compliments at my field about the nice covering job. But I think it is that Ultracote covers and shrinks so well and is easy to work with.

mikenlapaz

MinnFlyer
When you get back in the groove, which of the GP tail gears turned out to be the correct length? Would it also be suitable on the US40 ? Thanks