FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Tower has this kit for $99.99, recently marked down from $139.99. My guess is it is to be discontinued as soon as they sell out. Pretty good price for a legal 1/4 scale plane! Since I really don't need any more planes, I only bought one!

Campgems

You dirty dog. Here I was just getting ready to sign off and go to bed and now I'm $89.99 plus shipping in the hole. I had a $10 off promo code. I told my self that I would never buy another Lanier after the sour experience with the Explorer 40 trainer I started with, but for $90, I had to give this one a look. Just happen to have an O.S. 120 pumper that might work, and some big servos.

Don

Is this an addiction or what.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I had reservations as well, but could not resist the price. I added the needed accesories to get the bill up to $150.00, used a $20.00 off coupon, plus a $30.00 gift card. Even if I have to cut new fuse parts from lite ply and engineer a balsa turtle deck, it's still a great deal! They are supposed to fly quite nicely, and I have a 1.08 engine that was waiting for a plane anyway.

(Sorry I "forced" you into spending more money)

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I have built two of these over the years. Both were excellent flyers. One flew on an ASP 1.08, a good combination, the other on a Magnum 1.20 2 stroke, even better. Mine were both stock built using the kit supplied ABS cowl and turtle deck parts. All worked well. The Luan ply fuse sides that draw so much controversy actuall work very well: they are rigid and flex free in an area that needs those qualities. It is important to cut the lightening holes in the aft portion of the ply sides to reduce weight back there.

The last one I bought from Tower for $125, including shipping. It was a bargain, then.

Campgems

I can't tell from the photos, is the engine side mounted or inverted?

Don

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

My Laser flies great, too. Reinforce the landing gear mount a bit. I sunk some toilet seat bolts (plastic) into the wing, and use the accompanying wing nuts on the inside to hold the wings on. I went ahead and used the plastic parts, and am reworking the cowl now.

I will point out another interesting kit buy in the "Lanier Sale" - the 17.5% G202 for $50.

A couple others I'm halfway looking at are the large Cap 232 kit and the Taylorcraft. These are reduced in price, a bit, and when they are gone, they're gone.

Best wishes,
Dave Olson

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Campgems, I think most people side-mount their engines on this, but no reason you couldn't mount inverted (for a 4-stroke) if you wanted.

Jim Dines, thanks for the tips, good to know the stock parts worked out well for you. Threads I have researched say to mount servos in wing area of fuse as opposed to tail for better balance. What was your experience?

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

My servos were mounted under the cabin area. Putting them at the tail just makes for tail heavy condition and adding more weight to balance. Built just as the plans show. The servo mounting is well designed and well laid out.

Campgems

Thanks. Now to see if the Pitts will fit.

Don

Campgems

Huge box arived tonight. Just took a quick peek and there isn't much wood there. A look at the plans confurmed that. It is an interesting build concept. Basicly a strong square tube with the details attached. The tail is going to be the only building really. Looks like a lot of painting vs covering though.

The landing gear looks good. I think I'll beef up it's mount though. The split elevators with two servos are going to make me think a bit. I have one plane with them, and it isn't a problem with the radio, I'm just not sure I really need them. Have to think it over.

Looking at this guy, it isn't as big as my 4*60. Same wing span, but a shorter fuselage. That coupled with the split wings is going to make trips to the field a lot easier.

On the topic of size, any recomendations for servo size. I fly the 4*60 with Futaba 3151 digitals. This guy looks as if they, the 3151's, would be enough. I've got bigger ones in hand, if needed. For right now, I think I'll do this, 2 3151's for elevator and 2 for ailerons. Then one of the 9003's in a pull pull for the rudder. Mini servo for the throttle. Carbon fiber pushrods for the elevator.

Those who have built one, how does the cowl hold up, should I look at a Fiberglass specialities on in the future? Same for the wheel pants.

Don

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I was equally shocked at the size of the shipping box - HUGE!!!
I did not have time to unroll the plans yet to check it out, but did sift through the paper wads to see if contents had any damage. The ABS parts looked to be thick enough to hold up well, I think I will use them to keep the project inexpensive.

As far as servo choice, I think I will use some Hitec 475's on ailerons, perhaps a single Futaba 3010 or 3305 for elevator and rudder. I would think anything from 75 to 100 oz. torque should be enough for this, since I don't do much radical flying. I've not used carbon fiber pushrods yet, but might try them on this instead of the fiberglass Dave Brown rods I've been using.

I am thinking of using Gorilla Glue (Urathane) to laminate the balsa to foam on the wings instead of epoxy. It seems to be the glue of choice for foam work from what I have read here at RCU. The other choice would be some 45 min epoxy, but I'm concerned about adding weight with epoxy.

Campgems

One curious point, the Heavy ply(cant think of the name for it just now) sides need to have quite a few large holes drilled aft of the wing for lightening. The plans show it, so why didn't they laser cut them when they cut the rest of the stuff??? I guess that if this is the worst thing that ticks me on this kit, I'll be very happy.

It's been close to 38 years since I did a foam wing. Back then, we used a water based contact cement and used lite poster board for the skin. Hand cut them with a nychrome wire rigged on a bow with cloths hanger wire coiled of tension on the nychrome wire. Used a battery charger for power. Man was that wing heavy. I'm going to have to studdy up on the foam. Hate to screw them up, a replacement kit is $70.

Lets keep this thread going for a build thread on this guy. I know I'll have some questions.


Don

huck1199

Just ordered mine yesterday. Will one of you veterans do a build thread? I built a Kadet 25 years ago and not real sure of my skills now. Just got back into the hobby last year and have been building S.P.A.D. and foam stuff, and learning how to fly again.

Huck

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I started to look for the (Luan?) ply fuse sides, but never made it to the bottom of the box yet. I want to see how heavy they are, and if I will use or replace them w/ lite ply. I bought a set of cheap Forestner bits off "the auction site" last year, and find them quite handy for drilling out lightening holes and getting a starter hole when you need to remove a larger area with a jig-saw.

I searched RCU for "foam wing cores" and got some info on different glues for laminating the balsa skins to the foam cores. Best suggestion I found was to sqeege (sp?) urathane glue (Gorilla or Elmer's) on the balsa skin, moisten the foam by wiping w/ damp cloth, then join with plenty of weight or by vacuum bagging (if you have the equipment, which I don't).

I'll have to weigh the turtle deck, then weigh some equivelant wood to see if there's enough difference to make it worth building up a wooden turtle deck.

Campgems

I'm going to stick with the Luan. My complaint about the Lite ply is that the strength is 90 degrees to the surface grain. That means you 6" wide 48" long piece is strongest on the 6" width. I ran into this with the 4*60. I had the "oppoturinty" to do some stesss anylisiss on the wood used for the fuselage sides on that. Clean vertical breaks and raggid horzional breaks. The luan ply layup will be just the oppsite I think. The minor extra weight will be compensated for with a stronger fuselage. I'll weight one up and get a weight / sq in for comparison.

I was wondering about the turtle deck also. It will probably be about the same weight as sheeting if you take into consideration the extra glue and the extra formers needed.

On the other hand, longerons and covering would reduce the weight. One of the guys at the field today had a fresh built and slightly bashed 4*60. This kid is an absolute wonder when it comes to building. His building and covering are second to none. He used 1/64" ply for the turgle deck. It looked absoluteley perfect. That along with the rest of his work. This guy can cover and you are very hard pressed to see a seam. There is never a hint of a wrinkle or sag. Just incrediable. The 4*60 is usually tail heavy, and his mods to the tail and the turtle deck allowed him to install the servos just ahead of the horz stab and still need tail weight to balance out the plane.

Don

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

As far as sheeting the wings. Epoxy and urethane glues both work very well.

One trick i use is to spray the wing skins with cheap hairspray. It seals the wood so what ever glue you use does'nt soak into the wood and add extra weight.

After appling the glue and squeeging most of it off. Look at the wing sheeting and ask yourself this very important question. Does the glue look glossy? if the answer was yes squeegy it off until it looks dry. Any extra glue only adds weight it contributes zero extra strength.

For stacking weight on the wing core. about 200 pounds per wing panel works for me. I use patio blocks. If you have never sheeted a foam core wing before.

Do this one test well okay two tests. check and make sure your workbench is straight not bowed warped etc. but straight. if it is good if not fix it. two stack your 200 pounds on the workbench and make sure it is still straight. if it's not find a new workbench or reinforce it somehow. Because if your work bench bows sags whatever you just made a wing with a sag or a bow. I usually use a pice of 3/4" MDF board on top of my wing shucks rather then put the weight on rather than just putting the weight on the wing shuck.

If using urethane glue i keep the weights on for 36 hours as the urethane glue expands while curing taking the weights off to early can lead to a warp. If using epoxy i usually leave them overnight.

I hope this helps someone. If it does you will have built a light yet nicely sheeted wing. That is just as strong as someone who's wing weighs twice as much as yours.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

d bodary, yes, that does help. I appreciate the tips. I built my workbench to withstand a war, and it is as straight as a machinist's table (OK, as good as you can get with particle board, masonite, & 2x4's), so I should be good to support that kind of weight. I'll have to borrow some bricks or something for weight, and find a nice board to lay under the weight to distribute it evenly.

I see you fly Hilltoppers. If you want to visit in Canton, let me know.

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

I bought some blocks for weight at home depot. they were either 99 cents or a 1.49 ea. can't remember which. but i do remember buying 14 of them. they were'nt the square blocks but rectangular. If you decide to go that way. Bring gloves Home Depot keeps them outside and with the snow, rain and cold they will likely be stuck together. Bet you can't tell i bought my blocks in the winter.

As far as flying in Canton that would be cool. But truthfully except for a few trips to Nankin Hardware i just don't make it out there to often.

Dennis

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Well, I discovered my kit was missing the wing tube and landing gear. When I called Tower, they advised they had no kits and no parts, offered to refund the purchase price. Now I'm wondering if I should exchange it for the 1/4 Extra 300-s, or just keep it and pay for some parts from TNT (roughly 50 bucks!!) for gear and tube. Any suggestions from you guys? I read that the Extra is heavier (about 12 pounds). Crap!! I already have the engine and all accessories, but I guess I can always use them on another kit. Another possibility is the Great Planes Extra (smaller, at 64"), which I know flies well and is pretty light, but will accept all my hardware. Anyone have gear for the 1/4 Lanier Laser laying around? I even called Georgia, where they made the kits, they said Goldberg/Great Planes took everything they had when they bought the company.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

As already noted, keep the servos out of the tail or you'll be adding POUNDS of lead to the firewall to balance it. Mine weighed 9.5lbs before I balanced it. I put 2 elevator servos in the tail and didn't cut enough lightening holes in the aft section because I was worried about the strength. It cost me 2lbs of lead sinkers strapped under the motorbox. [:@]

I had an MDS 148 for power. This was before I discovered RCU and I had no idea about the poorly fitting carbs and air leaks. I ran 2 gallons of fuel through it on a test stand and thought it was good to go. Took me 4 months to build the model. Engine leaned out and flamed out on maiden flight-- just 2 seconds after takeoff. I nosed it down to keep my airspeed, but it didn't pull through. Totaled it. [:@]

I'd build another one, but they are just too small for my liking now. I don't fly any aerobatic planes in that size anymore. Either .40 size or 50cc gas for me. Just got tired of fussing with large glow motors.

I could probably be talked into building one for somebody else. It's not a hard build.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Rcpilet,
I've read about your build in some other threads here - good info regarding the servo placement and weight.

I've got a supervisor at Tower trying to help remedy my situation right now, supposed to hear back in a couple days at latest. I really hope to keep this kit, as I don't know any other that builds this large and light for so little money.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Pilgrim,

I have a landing gear left over from mine. You're welcome to it. You could buy an aluminum tube from your local hardware store. It will probably be thicker walled than the one that comes with the kit but will work.

If you'd rather have the 1/4 Extra 300 I might be willing to sell mine. You might have seen it at the field. It's powered by a Ryobi 31 gas engine with electronic ignition. I put the servos in the back and it balanced perfectly.

Joe

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Joe, Thanks for the offer to the gear, I'll PM you w/ my phone #.
Yes, I do remember your Extra, beautiful plane! In fact, I was going to track you down to see how well you liked yours, as you are the only one I know of that has that particular plane. I'll hope to speak to you soon,
Jeff

huck1199

Hi Guys
Do you think a K&B Aero 100 will be enough power for this plane?
Thanks Huck

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Huck, I would think that engine would be fine.

I got a return call from Tower Hobbies tonight. They were unable to locate any parts for me, but made a fair offer to reimburse me part of the purchase price, which I graciously accepted. Since Joeflyer has been generous enough to hook me up with the parts I need, I am a happy camper! Thanks Joe!! I owe you!
Jeff