More US 60 Kit Build Questions
#1
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More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Just three this time:
1. I don't find any mention of sealing the control surface gaps. Is it not recommended on this plane? No flutter? There was talk about it earlier but I can't find that discussion.
2. I plan to do flaps and, as a compromise, cut 1" of aileron off the tip end and glue it to the wing. Rather than 2", trying to address flutter, I guess. Good or bad idea?
3. I still can't figure out how to connect the aileron pushrods at the single, center mounted aileron servo. I keep hoping I'll see a method illustrated in MinnFlyer's post!!
Thanks for any help.
Frank
1. I don't find any mention of sealing the control surface gaps. Is it not recommended on this plane? No flutter? There was talk about it earlier but I can't find that discussion.
2. I plan to do flaps and, as a compromise, cut 1" of aileron off the tip end and glue it to the wing. Rather than 2", trying to address flutter, I guess. Good or bad idea?
3. I still can't figure out how to connect the aileron pushrods at the single, center mounted aileron servo. I keep hoping I'll see a method illustrated in MinnFlyer's post!!
Thanks for any help.
Frank
#2
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Fishin Geezer,
1. Sealing control gaps does absolutely nothing to control flutter. That is a misconception that is floating around out there. But sealing the control gaps will make the plane perform better. I don't think that it's mentioned in ANY instruction manual to seal the gaps, but it's just one of those things that you learn along the way. Yes, sealing the gaps will make the plane fly better and I recommend doing it.
2. I'll leave this to Minn as he's the flap expert for Ultra Sports.
3. You can use simply Z-bends to connec the control rods to the aileron servo. Z-bends are about the easiest type of connection out there, and one of the most secure!!!
Hope this helps
Ken
1. Sealing control gaps does absolutely nothing to control flutter. That is a misconception that is floating around out there. But sealing the control gaps will make the plane perform better. I don't think that it's mentioned in ANY instruction manual to seal the gaps, but it's just one of those things that you learn along the way. Yes, sealing the gaps will make the plane fly better and I recommend doing it.
2. I'll leave this to Minn as he's the flap expert for Ultra Sports.
3. You can use simply Z-bends to connec the control rods to the aileron servo. Z-bends are about the easiest type of connection out there, and one of the most secure!!!
Hope this helps
Ken
#3
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
#2 - I didn't cut anything off the ends of the ailerons, so you should be fine with 1" instead of two.
For controlling the ailerons, I use a DuBro Dual Aileron Ball Link:
http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...161.5163.0.0.0
Same thing at Tower:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD903&P=7
For controlling the ailerons, I use a DuBro Dual Aileron Ball Link:
http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...161.5163.0.0.0
Same thing at Tower:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD903&P=7
#4
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
RCKen and MinnFlyer: Once again, many thanks for your sage advice! It's giving me the confidence to continue with this build.
Ken, I guess that "flutter" thing is a misconception I picked up last fall when I was just starting and doing lots of reading. I'll follow the current instructions to cover everything and only then glue in the CA hinges. Then I'll use narrow strips of covering to seal the aileron and elevator gaps one the top side only? Then probably seal both sides of the rudder gap. Sounds like a plan!
Mike, Good. I'll try the 1" compromise. And I'll buy some of those DuBro Links. There are so many of those little accessories available I'll never learn about all of them. Maybe I should spend more time reading catalogs!
Thanks again,
Frank
Ken, I guess that "flutter" thing is a misconception I picked up last fall when I was just starting and doing lots of reading. I'll follow the current instructions to cover everything and only then glue in the CA hinges. Then I'll use narrow strips of covering to seal the aileron and elevator gaps one the top side only? Then probably seal both sides of the rudder gap. Sounds like a plan!
Mike, Good. I'll try the 1" compromise. And I'll buy some of those DuBro Links. There are so many of those little accessories available I'll never learn about all of them. Maybe I should spend more time reading catalogs!
Thanks again,
Frank
#5
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Frank, if you haven't already cut the 1" off the ailerons, I wouldn't bother - I'm not going to do it.
In the original configuration, he ailerons are controlled by the torque rods at the center of the wing. Doing this makes for a long aileron controlled at one end only.
By doing the Flap Mod, you're shortening the aileron, and controlling it much closer to the tip. So I really don't see the need to cut anything off it.
In the original configuration, he ailerons are controlled by the torque rods at the center of the wing. Doing this makes for a long aileron controlled at one end only.
By doing the Flap Mod, you're shortening the aileron, and controlling it much closer to the tip. So I really don't see the need to cut anything off it.
#6
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Very good, Mike. I'll sure take your advice. Somewhere a post related that step to addressing flutter so I figured to try it. So I'll save myself a couple of steps and for sure get lots of aileron control!!
Hope you're staying warm. I was raised in northern WI and still have family there and in the Twin Cities. To darned cold for me. Weather reports make it look awful just recently!
Thanks
Frank
Hope you're staying warm. I was raised in northern WI and still have family there and in the Twin Cities. To darned cold for me. Weather reports make it look awful just recently!
Thanks
Frank
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
That'll work, Mike. That winter sun will produce a tan if you don't freeze to death first.
We may make 40 deg. in Grants Pass today, then it'll start raining!
Frank
We may make 40 deg. in Grants Pass today, then it'll start raining!
Frank
#10
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Frank,
No need to seal both sides of the control surface gaps. When you make the seals the seal material goes all the way to the hinge line. People usually seal on the bottom side so the seal material does not show. I have had three US 60's and never had a flutter problem with the ailerons just as per the instructions.
Chuck
No need to seal both sides of the control surface gaps. When you make the seals the seal material goes all the way to the hinge line. People usually seal on the bottom side so the seal material does not show. I have had three US 60's and never had a flutter problem with the ailerons just as per the instructions.
Chuck
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Thanks, Chuck!
As a newcomer, guess I've been way off in my thinking about gap seals. In addition to performance, I was thinking they would also improve the appearance of the hinge gap (thus doing both sides of the rudder). I'll take another look when I get to that point. I've only built one kit and I know I put in a lot of gap seal material. [>:][>:]
Frank
As a newcomer, guess I've been way off in my thinking about gap seals. In addition to performance, I was thinking they would also improve the appearance of the hinge gap (thus doing both sides of the rudder). I'll take another look when I get to that point. I've only built one kit and I know I put in a lot of gap seal material. [>:][>:]
Frank
#12
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RE: More US 60 Kit Build Questions
Don't bother sealing the gap. I used to do it fathfully on every plane, but later I realized that it really only makes a noticable difference on planes with large gaps.
I haven't sealed a gap in over 15 years - of course, I also have become a better builder and no longer have big gaps
I haven't sealed a gap in over 15 years - of course, I also have become a better builder and no longer have big gaps