BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Has anyone who built one of these got any pictures of how you got the wing tips together? This kit is killing me......I am up to the point on the first wing panel where the ribs and sub-ribs are all glued in, barring the last sub-rib, and the top spar and leading edge are in, as is the TE. I attempted to fit the wing tip bow last night, and when blocked up to match the spars, the front does not match up to the LE. Plus, the LE is at 45° abutting the tip bow, so I guess that needs to be blocked in after I pull it off the plan. I guess, though not in the instructions, that the top spar needs to be cracked, bent down, and beveled to match the wing tip. Oy, they aren't kidding on the box where it says "craftsman's kit"! Any thoughts on the matter are appreciated(other than scrap it and get the 1/5th scale...)

hogflyer

Matt,

Welcome to the world of building a real kit the old fashioned way. I've got one of these under construction. If I can get a chance in the next couple of days I pull the wings out and get some pictures for you.

This plane was originally designed by Chuck Hollinger in the mid 50’s as a 3-channel plane (I’ve got a set of the original plans from the ‘50’s). It’s known as being one of the most accurate scale models of the Cub out there. But by the same token of being an older design, it’s a bit more fragile and won’t take the abuse (constant high stress aerobatics) some of the other Cub kits being produced today will take, but will stand up to the riggers of being a daily flyer if treated properly.

For power I would recommend an old OS .30 FP if you can one or the new OS .32 (it’ll fly on a Veco .19 or OS .20/.25 if kept light). Anything more is almost too much power. It’ll take all the scale detailing you want to give it, but don’t expect to perform 3D or lots of aerobatics beyond what the prototype did in a prototype fashion. The design of this plane makes for a good flyer, but it’s not the best in higher winds. It’ll float and float on landing, but if you get laxed it’ll also snap roll faster than stink on . It’s also a rudder plane, so you’ll have to know how to use the sideways motion of the left stick and how to lead into and out of a bank using rudder (critical at low airspeeds). Overall you’ll love it once flying.

When you drill out the aft fuselage for the horizontal stab dowels be very careful and take your time. This is the alignment for the stab and is probably the most critical part of the build. Also build it with yellow carpenters glue. I think on this bird it gives a stronger fuselage than CA would, and is more tolerant of parts that aren’t cut perfectly. For the finish, the best results will be from using silk and dope, but Sig Koverall and dope will work out just as well.

Hogflyer

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah, I've had the kit since 2005 and just started building it recently. I've been using good ole titebond throughout so far. I'm no stranger to kits, but this one is the most demanding I've done in that pretty much everything so far has required some finagling to get a decent fit or even close to fitting--guss I'm spoiled by laser cut stuff. I'm aware of the original design's roots, but I had no idea it would be such a PITA to take it from a box of sticks to an airplane. My Telemaster was essentially the same type of construction, but went together much more agreeably. Makes me worry that I did something wrong, but I've spent a few hours comparing the plans, the manual and the actual parts, and can't find the miss, if there is one. I bought this kit based on recommendations that it was the most accurate outline and the best flyer in this size range, so I have high hopes once it's done. Mine is going to be powered by an AXI 2826 on a 3S2P lipo setup to keep it clean. Scale looks and prototypical performance are what I'm after. Thanks for the input.

Stormovic

My Feedback: (29)

This is a great kit. I have built 4 of them . The best motor is either a .25 or.30 size 4 stroke or a .25 size two stroke. You can cover this with monokote. Seems like the construction for the tips require the tips to be centered on the last wing rib if I remember correctly and then carved and tapered into that rib and leading edge. I have also built the 5th scale Cub and it also is a great kit but it is a step or two above the one you are building. With a .25 os fp this this will fly just about like a full size Cub with 65 or 85 hp.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Based on the description you guys have posted, I must be misinterpreting how the wing tip is intended to fit. Thing is, this is the only way it could go, based on following the instructions to the letter......I'll have to post a picture of what I have so far tonight.