flyinsolo11

Hey guys,

I have a OS Max .60. I am building a Sig Kommander and I believe it is labed as a '.40- .50 trainer.' Is there a disadvantage to using a bigger engine like this in the kit?

Thanks!

mred33

Yea, it will make it a little nose heave and you will probably have to add led to the tail. You more then likely will not be able to move enough equipment around to make it ballance, so led in the tail. Other then that, no big deal, just be ready for one fast plane. It will more then likely go stright up forever and it will be fast and drink more fuel, but other then that nothing that has stoped people from doing it before. Just remember there is a throttle on the transmitter and use it for the first couple of flights to get it trimed out and flying right then go for it if you like fast and over powered planes. No big deal really, but watch your prop clearence on that thing.
Ed

LDaba

My Feedback: (2)

Solo: Some other considerations:
* A .60 takes a larger prop. This reduces the ground clearance for the prop blade.
* A .60 uses more fuel / minute. This means less flight time per tank or replacing the tank with a size appropriate fuel tank.
I hope the above helps. Happy landings, Tony.

R/CBOONE72

Throttle managment is the big think, flutter will destroy an airplane in a blink of an eye. I always seal my hinge gaps with monokote, reduces possibility. Move as much back, electronics, as far back as you can. Well, just don't tie anything down untill you get CG done, just kind of tac it down. Then move accordingly to reduce as much lead as you can. Thats all you can do, but the egine will be fine other wise, and yes, not prop clearence, like mentioned above.

flyinsolo11

Thanks guys for the thoughts. I am considering moving this bird from a nose wheel, to a tail wheel- any thoughts there? This would help in the prop clearance, but it would require moving the mains forward a bit.

Thanks again for your time

R/CBOONE72

I don't see any problems with that, yea moving landing gear foward a bit, and make sure its not to tail heavy again, a tail wheel and no nose wheel, that will help.

flyinsolo11

Thanks.

Also, what do you mean by 'sealing the hinge gaps?'

mred33

Any control serface has a gap between it and the fixed surface. Air gets in there and does some strange things. If you seal the gap, the air on top stays on top and the control serface works better and it cuts down on flutter. I seal mine with hings tape. It's clear and goes over any serface and you don't need to iron it down, just use a peice of balsa or something to put some pressure on it to seal it good. I do that on the bottom of each control serface and the rudder I do one side. Just bend the control serface as far as it will go and then put the tape or whatever on and press it in place. If you use covering material, you will have to iron it in place, but if you use hinge tape, just press it down good and cut off the part that comes out of the gap or lay in down on the stab and elevator or whatever control serface you are doing. It really does help and is a good idea to do it on all your planes.

Your still going to have to worry about prop clearence on a tail dragger. It's not as bad as a tri gear plane, but you will still have to watch it a little. Put the center line of the wheels at about the leading edge of the wing and you should not have any problems with handeling. You can go a little ahead of the leading edge, but don't go behind it. If you do, it starts getting squarlly and hard to handle. I made a Kaos into a tail dragger and it works great. I just put the landing gear in front of the wing mounted on the fuse as close as I could get it to the wing and it handels great. Goes stright as an arrow on take off and landing and doesn't do anything stupid. If your prop is to long though, you will not be able to get the plane in a level attatude and you will have to take off and land nose high. That is why you have to watch you prop clearence. You could go to a 3 bladed prop to help this, but you are limited in the prop selection with 3 blades. You could always go smaller dia and more pitch, but that will give you more speed, so you will have to watch the throttle more then with a flatter pitch.
Ed

Roby

Hi guys,

I had several Kommanders. One in the mid 70's and then
another in the mid to late 80's.

Both had 60's in them and flew like a dream. One of my all
time favorite models. I flew them so much that I wore out
engines every 4 or 5 years.

A .60 is a perfect match for this kit. Plenty of room for equipment
and don't be concerned about the weight , it will balance just fine.

I wish that someone would make a giant version of this plane.

Regards,
Roby

flyinsolo11

ed and Roby,

Thanks for your time and input- it is much appreciated.

I will tape the hinge joint- flutter sounds like a bad gig.

If Roby didn't have a problem with prop clearance, than I dont think I will worry about it.

The only thing I am now concerned about, is if this bird would be safer as a tail dragger for the terrain I will be taking off from. Like I said, we dont TO from any pavement- it is all grass and gravel.

Thanks

mred33

Grass is fine, but gravel can be a bit of a problem. Try to stay out of it if you can. Gravel hitting your prop can be bad. The rest of the plane is no problem, just the prop. As for flutter, it CAN be very bad at times. I have seen planes develop flutter on an elevator and 2 seconds later it departed the plane. Try flying a pattern plane without and elevator some time and you will see what I mean. It may not destroy the plane in the air, but it is not going to be in very good shape after it comes down. Landings are HARD without an elevator. (I know, rotten pun) I have never seen it happen, but I have heard of planes loosing a wing in flight due to flutter. That is why you should do everything you can to stop it before it starts and sealing the gaps in the control surfaces is a good start. Also make sure the control system has very little or no slop in it.
Ed