snurckle

Finally! Got the table built, and started building the Top Flite 1/8th Scale Gold Edition Corsair today.

Built the stab and elevator. No pics yet, but will post some when I get further in to it.

I'm planning on building this with Sierra Pneumatic Retracts (mains and tail), Fiberglass skin, retract doors, RCV 120 SP with 20" soloprops, and the 1/8th Scale Hamilton 3 Blade Prop Hub being researched by Juice. Should be an interesting build. Didn't have any problems today, and haven't really touched a piece of balsa in ten years, so I'm excited. I'm thinking about putting lights on it too, but not sure. (Probably should decide soon eh?)

Redback

Snurkle,

I am also building a 1/8th Corsair (my second one) with Sierra retracts. If you haven't already got yours sure that you have them on hand before you get too far on with the wing centre section.

I found mine needed a lot more thought in the install than the Robarts put in #1 did. For example you need to drill a hole in the spare for one of the air lines as the nipples on the Sierras are in a different place.

I figure that it will be worth the extra work when I can land without worrying that the slightest bump will mean a repair job on the retracts.

Terry

snurckle

Thanks for the advice - I was planning on ordering them tomorrow. I will be gone Tue-Fri to Tampa, FL, and was reading the instruction manual last night when I decided to put down the sanding block. Realized then I needed them very soon.

Also, I plan to install lights in the wings (red, green, and landing on the left side just inboard the oil cooler, and strobe on top of the fuselage). I was going to put the strobe in the leading edge of the rudder, but don't think that's a very good idea, so- it's going on top center of the fuselage. Just need to find out where to order lights/led's from (Any ideas)

Redback

Can't help with the lights, thought about doing this but probably wont bother this time.

You might be better posting in the warbirds forum, there are already a lot of Corsair threads and a lot of guys that really know their stuff.

You'll love the Sierra retracts, they really are too nice to hide under the wing! At the moment I am trying to source some wheels that are narrow enough to fit into the wells.

Terry

snurckle

Let me know if you find some wheels that work better. I haven't gotten that far. Leaving tomorrow for FL, so will be the weekend before I get to start on the wing. I may hold off on the wing, until Sierra let me know when I can expect delivery. I sent an email today...no response.

Redback

Will do. I've got some Williams wheels on order to see if they are any better. You can build the wing centre section up to installing the rails for the retracts. Its best to at least start the notch in the main spar for the retracts before assembly but you can fine tune it using a dremel after it's installed.

Because I had to drill another hole in the spar for the air tube I strengthed the area by bonding some 6oz glass cloth in the area. Will try and get some pix of my install so far If your interested.

Terry

Joe Lott

Hi, Snurckle.

I'm one of the guys opting for the 1/8 Hamilton Standard hub with Soloprop blades. My Corsair will be similar to yours. I went with the Sierra retracts and am operating the gear doors and tail wheel with a Jomar gear/door sequencer. (I went with a mechanical tail wheel rather than an air operated one.) That sequencer is nice, as you can operate 3 output channels from the sequencer with one channel from the reciever. I used one sequencer channel for the retract valve, one for the gear doors, and one for the tailwheel.

I'm going with the RCV 120SP as well. I'm almost ready to glass and I'll tell you, be careful with the weight and cut lightening holes where possible. I haven't weighed mine yet, but I'm guessing it will fall somewhere between 12-13 lbs. when finished. I'm going to weigh it right before glassing. I'm not installing working lights, (I'm scared of the extra weight). As for wheels, I went with the Robart 3-1/2" scale wheels. I know they probably should be 3-3/4" but I was afraid that the larger size wouldn't fit into my wells. The 3-1/2" wheels fit nicely, but I could have saved some weight going with the Dave Brown wheels. I just didn't think they looked very nice. That's something I can change later if need be.

Good luck on your build and keep us posted. Also, if you haven't gone through the "1/8 Scale TopFlite Corsair Mods" thread, it is loaded with info on tricking up this plane. I've found that most of the mods are easy with a little patience.

snurckle

Finally got a reply from Sierra on the retracts. He's suggesting a small air kit, and I'm not sure if I should go with a medium. On the Century Jet kits, the difference in Small and Medium is 2oz, so not really concerned too much.

I will be back on the table this weekend, starting on the fuselage. Away in Tampa FL for a conference, and back home tomorrow night. I will probably only order the retracts for now, and look more in to the sequencer valves. As for mechanical/pneumatic on the tail- I'll probably stick with pneumatic, since I can limit weight on the servo with a mini/micro servo. Yeah, yeah, is it really enough to matter???

Anyhow, can't wait to get back to it, and I have checked out the mod section. I was actually going to mod the stab for a more scale look, but decided to hold off a bit on it, and perhaps mod it after I got the wings built.

As for lights - I'm an Avionics guy, so lights and electronics is good for me. I found a place where I can order a diy light 'PIC', and build the lights to suit like I want. The chip (PIC) is $10 from this guy, and comes loaded with the firmware. The chip itself cost $2.05. He gives you the resistors, transistors, wires, and everything except the LED's for $35.00, and will assemble the entire thing (without LED's) for $45.00. I can purchase all of the parts (except the programmed PIC) from digikey for about 12 dollars. The only problem is making the circuit card to solder everything on. So- I have these sheets that you run through the laser printer, with the schematic, and iron on the copper board, soak in a solution, and wala - you have the PCB. Easy enough. I'm planning on changing the components over to surface mount, and save space and weight by using smaller lighter components. It should come out the size of a quarter, and will probably weight very close to it. Additionally, I'll be able to have 4 sets of lights on this small package, vice what I've seen on the net, with minimal space, power consumption, and weight, add the ability to suit the wire to my needs, so I can get away with 32-36ga wiring instead of the standard 28ga. I may even look at some other options, but will post what I finally decide on.

There will be 4 lights - top of the fuselage - Red light (non rotating, non-blinking) wings - red/green underside - simulated rotating beacon left wing, inboard of oil cooler - landing lights activated by flap or gear-down.

Joe Lott

Thats cool on the lights. I'm an electrical/electronics guy myself, and things have certainly gotten a bit smaller since I was in college. Can't wait to see the finished product. I do recall using photo etching for circuit boards in school, (though not so small). It worked out very nicely.

I think you're going to really like those Sierra retracts. Very beefy, very strong. And they are beautiful. I read about too many nightmares with the others. I also read on the warbirds forum that Ledo is introducing electrical rotating retracts for the .60 size Corsair. Too late for me but they move pretty scale-like in the video clip. I just wonder how they will hold up.

Have you purchased your 120SP yet? That's the last big ticket item for me to buy. These babies are really gon'na look nice swinging those big props. Josh hooked me on that hub when I saw the video of him running it on the test stand. Man, that monster with those yellow tips! My wife would kill me if she knew how much I've sunk in this thing.[] But it's big fun!

Have you picked a particular scheme to model after?

snurckle

I'm about to order the tailwheel retracts. I've come to the conclusion that Century Jet 93325 or Robart 160WC, but can't really make an educated decision. I'm hoping somebody can help. I really like the CJ's, mostly because they were designed around/for the Top Flite Gold Edition Corsair, whereas the Robarts are made for a larger Corsair - perhaps the 1/5th scale.

So my question is - can the CJ 93325 be converted to pneumatic, utilizing a Robart 165s - 3/8" cylinder x 1/2" stroke/travel?

Also, I've got the fuselage top almost skinned, and will probably start on the bottom tomorrow. I'll post pics of my progress tomorrow.

Joe Lott

No problem operating the Century Jet 93325 with a cylinder. Just screw a piece of 2-56 rod into the cylinder rod and add a clevice. The CJ tail wheel needs less than an inch of travel of its bellcrank to lock in the open position, and that bellcrank has 2 or 3 holes for travel adjustment. I think (don't know for sure-didn't try it) you could use the middle bellcrank hole and be really close. Also, you could get a cylinder with 1" of travel, open it up and put fuel tubing around the rod (inside the cylinder) to limit travel to whatever stroke you need. The cylinder can be mounted forward of the tail wheel, but I don't think it could be incorporated directly into the CJ tail wheel design. Hope this helps.

snurckle

Helps alot. I'm gonna order the tailwheel, and wait to get it in- then I'll determine travel distance needed and order the appropriate cylinder.

snurckle

Ordered the tailwheel, and the Sierra Retracts today. Should have everything at my door by early next week. Will finish up 'sticking' the fuselage, and start the wing this weekend. No more skinning until I get the retracts installed, and build up the lights. I'm going to be following NCIS's lead on the lights, with a couple of modifications. Rotating beacon on the bottom, and I'm going to try to incorporate all lights in to one controlling circuit card. LED controller will be programmable via PC, so I'll be able to adjust the 'blinking', 'pulsing', 'strobing' and steady on states.

I've also considered [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV20&P=7]Sullivan Genesys[/link] for supplying power to the lights, but may wind up just using a battery instead. Some things may just be easier with a 9v battery as apposed to a glow motor alternator or a receiver battery. I'm a little concerned about the RPM's being a little low at idle to make it work. Using an RCV engine means the Genesys will have less of an affect on the RPM's, but the lower RPM motor may affect it's ability to provide enough current where it's needed at the Vr to be forward biased.

Juice

Hi snurckle,

I just found your thread. I don't frequent this Kit Building forum as much as I should. Good luck with your build. I'll be quietly watching.

I may be too late, but have you considered LADO retracts ([link=https://smartweb.ipower.com/lado/product1.asp?value=300&productID=19]60-2 Rotating Retract for H9 Corsair, Hellcat, P-40[/link])? They have a new rotating set designed as a drop-in replace for the retracts that come with the H9 ARFs. Should be an easy mod for the TF Corsair. I've ordered a set for my H9 Corsair. I'm not going to fly with the nice hub/props again until a get a reliable set of retracted underneath. I hope the LADO set does the trick.

Juice

snurckle

I think I saw them a while back, but didn't put too much thought in to them, since I wanted to go pneumatic. The LADO's don't come with a 'wire' for the gear itself, which is good and bad. Good because you get to pick what you put in to it, and bad because you are limited by what's available, and by the size of the collar they fit in to. If I had a H9 ARF Corsair, I'd consider them, but as a kit build - I'll stick with the pneumatics. I've heard nothing but good things about the Sierra Giant Retracts, and I'm convinced their isn't a better retract for a .60 size Corsair available. The only bad part about them - the price - at 270 bucks, it's a hefty investment.

Stopped working on the fuselage today, finished skinning the sides of the top, and decided I'd hold off on finishing the top, and starting the bottom. So, I glued the main wing spar, and will probably continue on the wing tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get some pictures up tomorrow.

Redback

Hi Snurc,

Finished the tail group for mine except for a whole heap of sanding down for the ribs!

Still looking for some wheels that will fit into the wells and still allow the Sierras to lock. Even with the links taken off I still can't find enough space with either Dubro or Robart wheels. What I need is a wheel that is about 20mm wide - trying to get some Williams wheels to see if they will be any good.

Other thing is, does it matter whether the retracts lock up, since the air pressure will hold them anyway? Would prefer to see them go all the way, but it's proving hard - dont see any way I could have fitted the retracts that would have helped things. I am outting off joining the wings until I have finished fiddling around.

Sorry to hijack your thread, too lazy to start my own!

Terry

snurckle

No problem. I haven't gotten the retracts in, so I'm holding off on the wheels. Check out the Dave Brown wheels - 3-1/2", they are about 7/8" thick, so they may work. Would be more than willing to share this thread with your build, feel free to post pics.

whitedog4491

We need some pictures guys.

snurckle

Here's a few that I took. I've skinned the top of the fuselage, to the first spar, so not complete. I didn't want to lose finger space, so I'll wait until I get the wings done. I haven't started on the bottom of the fuselage yet...go figure.

I skipped the wings, and am working on them this weekend. I got a little stumped on step 5 (or is it 6), so trying to figure out what it's asking me to do right now.

snurckle

First picture is the Top of the fuselage, skinned the bottom, and left the top incomplete so I could determine best course of action for tailwheel, servo, receiver, and air tank installation...didn't want to limit myself before I figured it out.

Second pic is the part I'm stumped on. I think the top gets glued to the bottom. (Top two are a set, bottom are a set) But their is an "F" on it, and that's where I'm not sure which goes on top, or on the bottom. Any ideas?

Redback

Snurkle,

You're OK with the LE ones (top two) but you need to swop a top and bottom for the trailing edge (bottom two).

You should end up with a pair the same length but with the joins offset. Think you'll find that F is for forward as in step 6 of the instructions.

BTW, when I rebuilt my first one I tossed the plastic oil coolers and built them up from balsa. Getting the plastic to fit first time was a real PITA and I still had to paint them. Plan to stick with balsa this time.

Some pictures of the Sierra Install. Hole in the spar in the third pic is to connect the air line to the cylinder. Because of the extra hole I chose to reinforce the spar with some glass cloth

Terry

snurckle

Here is my weekend progress 'report'. I took it easy, since I'm waiting for the tailwheel and main retracts to come in. I'll post pics when they come in as well. Darrell from Sierra said they went out in the mail on Wednesday of last week, and OH to NC shouldn't take too long, with any luck - Monday or Tuesday.

I didn't glue any of the ribs to the spar, just fit tested. Had a couple issues with the R-2, R-3 ribs. The get doublers, and when I put them in the main spar, it seemed to twist a little. I think their was some glue in the 'slot', and it may not have been 100% even. I used some balsa to align when I glued the, as the plans indicated. A little sandpaper, and it's almost a perfect fit. I'll glue the spars after I get the retracts in.

NCIS- if you are reading - where did you put your air tank for the retracts? I seem to remember seeing it in the fuselage, but wondered how well that worked out, since you have to disconnect the air lines to remove the wing.

Anyhow, without further ado-

Redback

Snurkle,

Fitted the air tank for my 1st corsair in the fuse behind the wing and plan to do the same again. Only one air line if you keep the control valve and servo in the wing centre. I found that a Robart connector worked OK.

It might be possible to mount it on top of the wing centre so that it fits inside the fuse, I considered this but really connecting one pipe was no big deal.

One thing I did do to make assembly easier was to conect all the servos using an 11 pin computer type connector. This worked fine and I will definitely do it again.

Terry

snurckle

I hadn't thought about the servo and light wiring. I think I will definately look in to a connector for everything, and just have it branch from the connector on the fuselage to the battery/rcvr as required. I am not running my lights off the rcvr, they will be controlled with either a normal 9v or a 6.0v rcvr battery. Good deal on the air tank, think I'll mount it in the fuselage as well. Also looking at activating the landing/spot light with a simple magnet/reed switch.

snurckle

Got the Robart Air kit in the mail from Tower Hobbies today. Also in the box was the GP cockpit kit, and a Air control valve. Seems the Air Kit came with one too, but only able to control up/down on one air line. So, I've got 3 controllable air lines, but not sure I want to hook up both valves - would require two servos, and that's more weight than I care to add.

I've seen pics of people running the air control valves on mini/micro servos- this an ideal practice?

Also, kit is on hold for a couple of days. Dunno what's up with Sierra. They got my money, and I've gotten 2 packages from Tower Hobbies - both shipped USPS, and both traveling further than the Sierra Retracts. If they aren't here tomorrow, I think I'm gonna call them and find out what's up with my retracts. I thought I had ordered the tailwheel retract - but seems I didn't add it to the Tower Hobbies order - guess it'll be next week when I place that order, no where near close to needing them right now.

No good pics to post, and no changes...more to follow...when I get my retracts.