swlarcham

My Feedback: (1)

I am about to start covering a new plane. I recently acquired a Topflite monokote Trim Tool. It has no instructions with it.

Can someone tell me how it's to be used. About all I can figure would to be cutting along a squared corner ( ie it runs nicely down the edge of my workbench and would leave a 1/16th lap over the edge) but that's no help on a plane.

bewlow is a link to the item on tower's site:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHZ30&P=7

What am I missing?

bearmech

My Feedback: (1)

I've got one too, still can't figure it out. Thought it was just me LOL

swlarcham

My Feedback: (1)

Sure feels nice to not be alone. :-)
I talked to a friend (who's been modeling longer than me) and he said he never has figured out how to use one -if I learn how ,come teach him.

Thanks
Eddie

tag-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Email me your Email address and I'll see if I can scan the directions to you tonite . It really isn't tough to use but takes some practice.
Tag

[email protected]

Eindecker-RCU

Have one,like the others,its not easy to use,infact i gave up with it,and found that my homemade trim tool worked better,on open structure covering trimming!!!,

Eindecker

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

You use it to trim the edges and get a nice clean cut.

SHARK

I've got one with the instructions and have tried a whole bunch of times to make it work but I always end up just using a sharp exacto knife. They say the Higgly one works a lot better.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I've had the same experience!! I tried a few times, but I gave up and finally pitched the darn thing! I've gotten pretty good at holding my knife and using my fingers as a guide. I did break down an buy one of those Harry Higley trim tools at the Toledo Show. They had a nice display so you could try it out before buying. It gave perfect results without any practice, and I didn't even have to read the instructions. Good luck with your TF trim tool. If you are successful, you're a better man than I am!

Dsegal

The only trim tool worth a darn is the Higley tool.

Dave Segal

swlarcham

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Tag
I just received the instructions.
This Rc-Universe and all you helpfulguys are great. As I told Tag I hope to be able to "help" someone sometime . :-)

Thanks
Eddie

stuk_at_work

My Feedback: (111)

Ditto on the Higley. I've given up on the Top Flite tool. 9/10 times I just use a fresh single edge razor blade and use my fingers as a guide (Best done before 1 am and never after the 3rd cup of coffee!).

For covering over covering trim, go to your local Art Supply store and buy a sheet of mylar. Trim it to a workable size and put it between the covering you want to cut and the covering you want to protect. Cut an additional strip to use as a cutting guide and lay over the piece you want to cut. Mylar is great for following the contours of wings.

CurtD

My Feedback: (1)

If you're just trying to get a nice straight edge that overlaps, say, the top covering over the bottom at the leading edge, here's my el cheapo method.

Take regular masking tape and run a length of it on the underside of the leading edge parallel to the wing at about where you want the top covering to overlap. Lay another layer of tape on top of the first. Now, pull the top covering over the LE so that it overlaps the bottom smoothly. Use small pieces of masking tape to hold it in place. Now use a NEW single-edge razor and a straight edge long enough to reach the whole length of the wing to guide your razor. You can use some tape to help hold it in place (tape on the side away from where you're cutting). Now draw the razor with light pressure along the length of the covering cutting the excess away. Pull the all tape off and carefully iron the cut edge down. The edge will be perfectly straight and almost invisible.

I use two layers of tape so if I accidentally press a little too hard I don't cut the covering under the tape.

bearmech

My Feedback: (1)

good tip I'll have to try it! Thanks

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

Another way is to grab a scrap piece of 1/4" sq balsa. Hold it next to the edge and iron the covering slightly to the scrap balsa. Then use a razor and run it down the edge of the balsa giving you a perfectly straight line.

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

Here is an example...

Prboz

Hi Guys,

would it be possible for somebody to measure the diameter of the shaft of the shoe?

Is it 3/16" (.1900"),(4.75mm)

Much appreciated[sm=regular_smile.gif]

Prboz

Zor

After reading all this thread I just cannot figure all this apparent complication.

It seems easy enough for me to draw a straight line with a pencil or ball pen against a ruler and just use cissors and cut just to make the line disappear.

Zor

BillinIndiana

Is this the tool this thread is about? The OP's link doesn't work for me..

manuals.hobbico.com/top/topr2400-manual.pdf

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The plastic beveled part goes in two ways and it allows you to run the tool along an edge with the blade closer with about a 1/8 over lap or flip the bevel and it gives you about a 1/4 inch over lap. Wrecker's way with using a scrap piece of wood can get you a better cut though. The real trick to the tool is a very sharp set of blades in it. Same thing with the stripe cutter. I have a strop on my bench and when covering, the moment I feel a tug when cutting I stop and strop the blades until sharp. My blades are sharper then when new.
I almost never use the tool these days, I get a better edge using scrap wood like wrecker does or just running a sharp knife along the edge. The stripe cutter is an outstanding tool though. The trim cutter works but isn't worth the effort.
A lot of the easy tools sold by GP are things you buy when just starting in the hobby and most of them aren't worth the money. The two best tools I have ever bought from tower are the stripe cutter and the hinge slot cutter. Other then that I can't recall any of there tools as being worth the effort. I think I have given most there tools away.

Zor

The OP link doew not work for me either.

I cannot undestand someone posting a link without testing it. . . .

The recent link worked fine and I studied the tool.

Just another gimmick to make a buck and sell #11 blades.

I will keep drawing staight line where needed and use my scissors.

Zor

bikerbc

I wasted more time and material with that goofy tool..I guess it does work but There are easier ways..Straight edge and knife I too use sissors , I hate to admitt it but I swiped a set of the wifes make up sissors..They are very tiny and hard to get the fingers in but great for detail work...They are curved on the end..I am not sure what they use them for..Maybe eyelashes or snout hairs....Olfa makes a a tool called the rotary cutter that works great for cutting film , it also works great on fiberglass in fact thats where it really shines...it is no good as a trim tool though..

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I never had any luck with mine. Been in a drawer for many years. It's one of those tools that sounds good in theory, but not good in practice. IMHO


David

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The original post is from 03 so the links aren't going to work.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Way to bring back a 9yr old thread.... I never liked the stinkin tool anyways. Piece of junk! I've got one sitting on my desk that's been there for longer then this threads been around... This thread just reminded me to throw it in the trash.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

If its this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ30

the picture shown is the top... of the device

how you use it:
for example trimming the leading edge of the wing or anywhere you want to make a straight line with your covering ( sides of plane body,etc )

tack your piece of monokote or whatever in place on all sides, you can either tack or mostly seal down the edge that you're getting ready to trim

place the tool with the blade against the covering and the base of the tool against the body of the plane....
run the tool along the seam being trimmed... it automatically produces a straight cut line, with about 1/8" overlap that you can then iron down.


I think the main draw back with it is it's use of #11 exacto blades which I never found great for cutting coverring, much prefer razor blades