Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
08-02-2008, 09:30 PM
#29
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RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
rc pilot,
im the one who had the midwest citabria build thread that taking flight was refering to . i hope you didnt mind her posting on your thread. i didnt know she was doing it. any ways you have an excellent build thread going on here.this was my first kit build and i wish
i could of had the benefit of your build thread then. real quality work here. you build real clean and straight. cant wait to see it when its done. what paint sceem are you thinking about? good luck with the build and happy flying. andrew wisc.
im the one who had the midwest citabria build thread that taking flight was refering to . i hope you didnt mind her posting on your thread. i didnt know she was doing it. any ways you have an excellent build thread going on here.this was my first kit build and i wish
i could of had the benefit of your build thread then. real quality work here. you build real clean and straight. cant wait to see it when its done. what paint sceem are you thinking about? good luck with the build and happy flying. andrew wisc.
08-02-2008, 09:46 PM
#30
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
I don't care if people want to post. This thread is here for everyone to see and enjoy. Take information or build tips from it and build better kits. I have no problem with anyone posting in this thread. [8D]
Thanks for the compliments about my work. [sm=red_smile.gif] I'm no expert, but I feel like I'm doing pretty well with basic tools and a flat work bench. I've built quite a few kits over the years. Getting better with each new one.
I'm not sure about the colors yet. I DO have a TON of monkeykote yellow. A traditional Decathlon or Citabria scheme would be yellow with white stars and stripes. Still not sure though. I kinda wanted to use a cloth covering, but I have so much Monkeykote yellow lying around and I know my eyes can see that yellow really well. It's hard NOT to use the material I have already.
Thanks for the compliments about my work. [sm=red_smile.gif] I'm no expert, but I feel like I'm doing pretty well with basic tools and a flat work bench. I've built quite a few kits over the years. Getting better with each new one.
I'm not sure about the colors yet. I DO have a TON of monkeykote yellow. A traditional Decathlon or Citabria scheme would be yellow with white stars and stripes. Still not sure though. I kinda wanted to use a cloth covering, but I have so much Monkeykote yellow lying around and I know my eyes can see that yellow really well. It's hard NOT to use the material I have already.
08-03-2008, 07:26 PM
#33
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Putting the wingtips on and giving it all a rough sand. My favorite sanding block. A piece of 3/4" counter top with a full sheet of 80grit or 60grit stuck to it. Nice for that carving project or anytime you have to knock down a block or stick in a hurry. I even use it for rough sanding on sheeting and my leading edges, trailing edges.
I glued a block of balsa to the wingtip and cut off the excess with a razor saw. Use the cut piece on the other wing tip. Sand with 80grit or 60grit and round it up just a bit. Leading edges are still flat on the front and no real roundness to them yet. I save the final sanding for after I'm completely done and nothing left to do but cover it. I find that parts and pieces get banged up in the shop and doing a final sand right away leaves you with a dented leading edge come covering time.
Leave the bulk of it on for now and just get a rough shape to it. Sand out all the hanger/building rash just before you heat up the covering irons. [8D]
I glued a block of balsa to the wingtip and cut off the excess with a razor saw. Use the cut piece on the other wing tip. Sand with 80grit or 60grit and round it up just a bit. Leading edges are still flat on the front and no real roundness to them yet. I save the final sanding for after I'm completely done and nothing left to do but cover it. I find that parts and pieces get banged up in the shop and doing a final sand right away leaves you with a dented leading edge come covering time.
Leave the bulk of it on for now and just get a rough shape to it. Sand out all the hanger/building rash just before you heat up the covering irons. [8D]
08-03-2008, 07:37 PM
#34
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Finishing the tips.
Adding the center section trailing edge pieces. The kit pieces are too fat. They are thicker at the leading edge than the trailing edge of the wing. About 1/16" too thick. No big deal. I used pins to secure the trailing edge of the wing to the building board. Pinned it down tight and flat to the board. Set the aileron stock down in place and shove it up tight against the trailing edge of the wing. Pin it down flat on the centerline of each wing rib. Use the big sanding block and knock 1/16" of balsa off the top until it lines up with the wing trailing edge. Pull the pins off the wing and pick it up. Move the pins in the aileron stock and sand out the high spots where the pins were originally placed. Helps to use a 24" sander.
Short sanding blocks make waves in your work. [:'(]
Pinned both ailerons down and drew the center line marks on them. Drew marks on the top about 3/8" back from the leading edge. Run a planer down it and knock it all off. If your careful and pay attention, you can plane the leading edges of the ailerons right down smooth and square. Ready for hinges. No sanding necessary. Takes 10 minutes to shave them down with a planer and it does a nice job. Just pay attention to your lines and don't get greedy. Use the big block sander or the 24" sander to clean them up if you need too.
Last ones for today.
Adding the center section trailing edge pieces. The kit pieces are too fat. They are thicker at the leading edge than the trailing edge of the wing. About 1/16" too thick. No big deal. I used pins to secure the trailing edge of the wing to the building board. Pinned it down tight and flat to the board. Set the aileron stock down in place and shove it up tight against the trailing edge of the wing. Pin it down flat on the centerline of each wing rib. Use the big sanding block and knock 1/16" of balsa off the top until it lines up with the wing trailing edge. Pull the pins off the wing and pick it up. Move the pins in the aileron stock and sand out the high spots where the pins were originally placed. Helps to use a 24" sander.
Short sanding blocks make waves in your work. [:'(]
Pinned both ailerons down and drew the center line marks on them. Drew marks on the top about 3/8" back from the leading edge. Run a planer down it and knock it all off. If your careful and pay attention, you can plane the leading edges of the ailerons right down smooth and square. Ready for hinges. No sanding necessary. Takes 10 minutes to shave them down with a planer and it does a nice job. Just pay attention to your lines and don't get greedy. Use the big block sander or the 24" sander to clean them up if you need too.
Last ones for today.
08-08-2008, 11:47 PM
#36
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Where were we? Sorry for the delay.
Putting in the F22 and F23 formers. Clamp it in good. I used thick CA. Wipe off any excess glue.
Sticking the horizontal stab on for the first time. And the vertical.
Strapping it down to the table. Getting ready to check and make sure it's all square.
Level the table. I set it on 2 short step ladders and used a couple pieces of plywood and some magazines to level the table.
Wing saddle is good. Tail is square. It's all level.
Putting in the F22 and F23 formers. Clamp it in good. I used thick CA. Wipe off any excess glue.
Sticking the horizontal stab on for the first time. And the vertical.
Strapping it down to the table. Getting ready to check and make sure it's all square.
Level the table. I set it on 2 short step ladders and used a couple pieces of plywood and some magazines to level the table.
Wing saddle is good. Tail is square. It's all level.
08-09-2008, 12:04 AM
#37
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Puttin' the wing on for the first time. She's startin' to look kinda cool now. 
Square it all up and triple check everything.
Mark the holes in the front plates. Get your buddy to press down firmly right in the center of the wing. Drill the first hole. Keep the drill bit level and square. Run the bit all the way in and then unscrew the drill chuck. Leave the bit in there as a pin to hold the wing.
Don't let go of the wing. Make sure you have a good building buddy who will concentrate for the 3 minutes it takes to drill these holes.
The wife will suffice in a pinch, but it usually costs ya an oil change or a turn on the vacuum cleaner next week. [
]
Drill a pilot hole on the other side and then run the 1/4" bit in. I tried not to drill all the way through on this one. My intention was to stop when the bit hit the rear dihedral brace. I went too far. No big deal. Push the dowel into the hole and then remove the first pilot bit that you left in the other side. Drill the 1/4" hole and be more careful this time. Stop it perfectly.
Use some Gorilla glue and a very tiny hammer to pound the pins in. I spit in the holes first. A little moisture in the holes will help the glue set. It's dry in Colorado.
Square it all up and triple check everything.
Mark the holes in the front plates. Get your buddy to press down firmly right in the center of the wing. Drill the first hole. Keep the drill bit level and square. Run the bit all the way in and then unscrew the drill chuck. Leave the bit in there as a pin to hold the wing.
Don't let go of the wing. Make sure you have a good building buddy who will concentrate for the 3 minutes it takes to drill these holes.
The wife will suffice in a pinch, but it usually costs ya an oil change or a turn on the vacuum cleaner next week. []Drill a pilot hole on the other side and then run the 1/4" bit in. I tried not to drill all the way through on this one. My intention was to stop when the bit hit the rear dihedral brace. I went too far. No big deal. Push the dowel into the hole and then remove the first pilot bit that you left in the other side. Drill the 1/4" hole and be more careful this time. Stop it perfectly.
Use some Gorilla glue and a very tiny hammer to pound the pins in. I spit in the holes first. A little moisture in the holes will help the glue set. It's dry in Colorado.
08-09-2008, 12:07 AM
#38
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Looks like the pics are funny again.
I've been agonizing about which motor to put in this airplane. I want to use it as a float plane and also a snow flying plane. I need it to have plenty of power. As much as I like the Tower .75 engines, I don't think it will be enough power to satisfy me. The other options were .90 size 2-strokes and 4-stroke glow engines. I looked at the 90-120 size engines just for comparison. Most 90 size 2-strokes will weigh about 26oz. The 120 size engines will weigh between 31-35oz. The Saito 4-strokes would be the lightest, but also the most expensive option. Even a used Saito is a pretty good chunk of change. Not really an option for me.
I settled on the Featherlite 21cc Weeide conversion. Carr Precision has a kit to convert this engine. I got the engine free. It runs, just needs a carb rebuild. I got a CH ignition unit here with fixed timing. It's brand new. I got a battery. These engines are supposed to weigh 36oz RTF with muffler, prop hub and ignition unit. I'm optimistic. I know it weighs a bit more, but I think I'm going to run a 4oz fuel tank and time it. I'll bet it runs wide open for at least 20-25 minutes. If I can run a 4oz tank..... even a 6oz tank, I would save a significant amount of weight over a 90-120 size glow engine. Any of those would need a 14-16oz tank. I just don't want to pay the fuel bill to operate any glow engines of that size. I sold all of them years ago. I made a rule that I would only have .75 glow engines or smaller. I have 3 or 4 of the TH .75 engines and a handful of small .46 ball bearing sport engines.
It weighs 30oz in these last pics. I can probably take off another ounce if I clean up the case and the backplate a little more. Add the ignition unit and a battery...it should be right around 36oz RTF. It'll fit in the cowl........... mostly. I know the carb is going to stick out a bit. I may have to cut a small hole in the front (right side in the pic) for the front of the muffler. It won't take much to clear the muffler if I twist the motor a little bit clockwise when vied from the front. The carb is going to stick out regardless. No way around it.
I've been agonizing about which motor to put in this airplane. I want to use it as a float plane and also a snow flying plane. I need it to have plenty of power. As much as I like the Tower .75 engines, I don't think it will be enough power to satisfy me. The other options were .90 size 2-strokes and 4-stroke glow engines. I looked at the 90-120 size engines just for comparison. Most 90 size 2-strokes will weigh about 26oz. The 120 size engines will weigh between 31-35oz. The Saito 4-strokes would be the lightest, but also the most expensive option. Even a used Saito is a pretty good chunk of change. Not really an option for me.
I settled on the Featherlite 21cc Weeide conversion. Carr Precision has a kit to convert this engine. I got the engine free. It runs, just needs a carb rebuild. I got a CH ignition unit here with fixed timing. It's brand new. I got a battery. These engines are supposed to weigh 36oz RTF with muffler, prop hub and ignition unit. I'm optimistic. I know it weighs a bit more, but I think I'm going to run a 4oz fuel tank and time it. I'll bet it runs wide open for at least 20-25 minutes. If I can run a 4oz tank..... even a 6oz tank, I would save a significant amount of weight over a 90-120 size glow engine. Any of those would need a 14-16oz tank. I just don't want to pay the fuel bill to operate any glow engines of that size. I sold all of them years ago. I made a rule that I would only have .75 glow engines or smaller. I have 3 or 4 of the TH .75 engines and a handful of small .46 ball bearing sport engines.
It weighs 30oz in these last pics. I can probably take off another ounce if I clean up the case and the backplate a little more. Add the ignition unit and a battery...it should be right around 36oz RTF. It'll fit in the cowl........... mostly. I know the carb is going to stick out a bit. I may have to cut a small hole in the front (right side in the pic) for the front of the muffler. It won't take much to clear the muffler if I twist the motor a little bit clockwise when vied from the front. The carb is going to stick out regardless. No way around it.
08-09-2008, 06:54 PM
#39
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Getting ready to drill the holes for the wing bolts. Gotta square it all up again and make sure it's all lined up with the tail and the fuselage.
Looking down the wings.
Gotta get your buddy to hold it while you make the first hole. Just like the wing dowels, drill a small pilot hole and then take the bit out of the drill. Leave it in place as a pin to hold the wing from slipping around. The wing is now held in place with 3 points. The 2 leading edge dowels and this drill bit.
Put another small pilot bit in the drill and drill the second hole. Take it out and run your 1/4" bit through this hole. Now pin this hole with a 1/4-20 bolt.
Go back and tighten the chuck on the first drill bit and remove it from the wing. Run the 1/4" bit through.
Take the wing off and notice how your 1/4-20 blind nuts don't fit. Run a 5/16" bit through the wing hold-down blocks in the fuse. DON'T run the 5/16" bit through your wing.
Looking down the wings.
Gotta get your buddy to hold it while you make the first hole. Just like the wing dowels, drill a small pilot hole and then take the bit out of the drill. Leave it in place as a pin to hold the wing from slipping around. The wing is now held in place with 3 points. The 2 leading edge dowels and this drill bit.
Put another small pilot bit in the drill and drill the second hole. Take it out and run your 1/4" bit through this hole. Now pin this hole with a 1/4-20 bolt.
Go back and tighten the chuck on the first drill bit and remove it from the wing. Run the 1/4" bit through.
Take the wing off and notice how your 1/4-20 blind nuts don't fit. Run a 5/16" bit through the wing hold-down blocks in the fuse. DON'T run the 5/16" bit through your wing.
08-09-2008, 06:57 PM
#40
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
I used a C-clamp and a small block of MFB to squeeze the blind nuts into place. Put a little bit of 15 minute epoxy on the blind nuts. Wipe off the excess glue. We're not 3rd graders here. 
Put the wing back on and run the nylon bolts in. Run them ALL THE WAY IN until they are hand tight. This will pull the blind nuts in straight and make it easy to line up for the life of the plane.
Grab the plywood cut-outs from the plywood wing rib and use it to trace a template/pattern on some scrap lite ply. Cut the templates out. Sand and fit. Glue them onto the lite ply servo ribs. I used thick CA. Wipe off the excess glue. Clamp well and set aside for 15 minutes.
Thats all for now. My buddy came up with a way to use some 1/64" birch ply as a light weight hatch. It will be posted in the next round.
I'm mounting some JR 4721 coreless servos in the wings for aileron control. They are WAY overkill for this plane, but I have them lying around and they just happen to have some H9 titanium Pro-Links, 4/40 ball links and aluminum horns already on them. The H9 Pro-Links are the perfect length here, so these servos are getting used.
I'm home for dinner and family time. I plan to go back and work late tonight. Maybe some pics around 2am or 3am tonight. Maybe not.
Put the wing back on and run the nylon bolts in. Run them ALL THE WAY IN until they are hand tight. This will pull the blind nuts in straight and make it easy to line up for the life of the plane.
Grab the plywood cut-outs from the plywood wing rib and use it to trace a template/pattern on some scrap lite ply. Cut the templates out. Sand and fit. Glue them onto the lite ply servo ribs. I used thick CA. Wipe off the excess glue. Clamp well and set aside for 15 minutes.
Thats all for now. My buddy came up with a way to use some 1/64" birch ply as a light weight hatch. It will be posted in the next round.
I'm mounting some JR 4721 coreless servos in the wings for aileron control. They are WAY overkill for this plane, but I have them lying around and they just happen to have some H9 titanium Pro-Links, 4/40 ball links and aluminum horns already on them. The H9 Pro-Links are the perfect length here, so these servos are getting used.
I'm home for dinner and family time. I plan to go back and work late tonight. Maybe some pics around 2am or 3am tonight. Maybe not.
08-09-2008, 07:56 PM
#41
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
The covering:
My inventory of monkeykote:
3 full rolls of yellow. About 6 other rolls each 1/2 used or more. I got a TON of yellow.
3 full rolls of bright orange.
3 full rolls of true red
1 full roll of medium purple
1 full roll of transparent yellow
And some blue ultrakote about 12" wide and a full 6' long. This could be used for wing stripes on the bottom of the wings.
I like both of these Super Decathlons.
I think I'll end up buying a roll of white and probably 1 or 2 rolls of insignia blue if I do the one thats all blue on the belly.
The other could be done with only one roll of white. I could use the blue ultrakote for striping the wings, so I wouldn't need anymore blue.
My inventory of monkeykote:
3 full rolls of yellow. About 6 other rolls each 1/2 used or more. I got a TON of yellow.
3 full rolls of bright orange.
3 full rolls of true red
1 full roll of medium purple
1 full roll of transparent yellow
And some blue ultrakote about 12" wide and a full 6' long. This could be used for wing stripes on the bottom of the wings.
I like both of these Super Decathlons.
I think I'll end up buying a roll of white and probably 1 or 2 rolls of insignia blue if I do the one thats all blue on the belly.
The other could be done with only one roll of white. I could use the blue ultrakote for striping the wings, so I wouldn't need anymore blue.
08-10-2008, 05:32 AM
#42
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Okay, not exactly 2 or 3am.
4:29am!!!
I wanted to make some kind of hatch without adding a bunch of weight. A few pieces of scrap balsa and some 1/16" ply.
Leaned the wing up against the bench and turned my back on it. Knocked a hole in the sheeting. [:@]
Made a jig to drill the holes for my hinges. I changed my mind on the CA hinges and decided to use some Great Planes hinge points. Got both ailerons hinged. I put one hinge in each wing bay. 6 per side. It all fits nice and I have very good throw with a tiny hinge gap.
4:29am!!!
I wanted to make some kind of hatch without adding a bunch of weight. A few pieces of scrap balsa and some 1/16" ply.
Leaned the wing up against the bench and turned my back on it. Knocked a hole in the sheeting. [:@]
Made a jig to drill the holes for my hinges. I changed my mind on the CA hinges and decided to use some Great Planes hinge points. Got both ailerons hinged. I put one hinge in each wing bay. 6 per side. It all fits nice and I have very good throw with a tiny hinge gap.
08-10-2008, 05:38 AM
#43
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Started looking at a rear gear mount. I'm building this plane to go float flying in early October. Had to add a plywood plate and some blind nuts. Did the same as the other blind nuts. Drill a pilot hole and leave the bit in place. Shove bolts in the larger holes to keep it all lined up while you drill the other holes.
Added the lite ply tail wheel doubler. Added some belly formers on the fuse. Going to work on cutting a new former to place in front of the rear gear.
Added the lite ply tail wheel doubler. Added some belly formers on the fuse. Going to work on cutting a new former to place in front of the rear gear.
08-11-2008, 05:11 PM
#47
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
No building today. This little guy is 5yrs old today and he wants to go to Chuck-E-Cheese for his B-day.
I did order some parts for the engine today. I talked to Terry @ CH and he had 1 "timing kit" left in stock. I already have a CH ignition unit lying around. Also ordered a flat backplate mount from CH. I think thats all the parts I'll need to order for the engine. I can braze or weld a tube in the muffler to direct the exhaust outta the cowl.
I did order some parts for the engine today. I talked to Terry @ CH and he had 1 "timing kit" left in stock.
I already have a CH ignition unit lying around. Also ordered a flat backplate mount from CH. I think thats all the parts I'll need to order for the engine. I can braze or weld a tube in the muffler to direct the exhaust outta the cowl.
08-12-2008, 10:35 PM
#48
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Hinging the elevators tonight. Set up a simple jig to keep the bit perpendicular to the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Also used it on the leading edge of the elevators. Biggest concern with these types of hinge points is keeping the drill bit perpendicular to the hinge line.
08-16-2008, 12:54 AM
#49
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Got some parts from CH today.
A $10 trip to the hardware store and 1hr of time. One airplane engine. Hope this thing runs. It weighs 40oz RTF with a JR1100mah 4.8V nicad pack. I'll be using a lighter pack than that.
A $10 trip to the hardware store and 1hr of time. One airplane engine. Hope this thing runs.
It weighs 40oz RTF with a JR1100mah 4.8V nicad pack. I'll be using a lighter pack than that.
08-16-2008, 12:57 AM
#50
RE: Midwest Citabria - Build Thread
Decided to modify the fuse and put a motorbox out front. Not really that hard, just a lot of measuring and math to make sure it all lines up.
I did this because I needed a smaller firewall. The muffler sticks out and the cylinder hangs down. I wanted a smaller firewall so that it would make it easier to mount and adjust. Thats my story and I'm stickin' to it.
I did this because I needed a smaller firewall. The muffler sticks out and the cylinder hangs down. I wanted a smaller firewall so that it would make it easier to mount and adjust. Thats my story and I'm stickin' to it.