littlebearcub

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Hello all! I am building my first kit, a SIG 1/5 scale piper j-3 cub with a saito FA .62A!!! I'm going to ditch the stock gear and go for the more forgiving scale like gear. I'm fairly new to the world of model airplanes so I only know of one kind of aftermarket landing gear which is the Robart gear. I know theres a few more out there from browsing through the posts but cant recall the names of manufacturers. I tried saving you all the trouble and searched for it and came up with nothing, hopefully from now on ill have a better idea's to search on. I haven't had a chance to examine the full scale cubs gear, and my question is if the robart gear is pretty close? Or is there something better? Why? That is all for now, I'm sure i'll get all my questions answered here! I want to thank you all in advance, for taking your time to put your love into your posts. May your skies always be blue!!!

Shawn from Eugene, Oregon. It'll be off to the flying field this weekend (both days for my first flights with the kadet, I've got about 20 or so intro pilots at my field, should have no problem getting up in there air!!!

(note: okay it will be my second flight, first one ended up hitting a powerline falling 25 feet into a 200 dollar windshield with the engine running full power. Just got too damn excited I took off alright but my brain couldn't make it turn. No one got hurt. I replaced the wings and it's ready to go, at an ama regulated field with a buddy box! Not an old school ground by myself next to businesses and houses!)

Andrewmc

I have framed up the 1/6 scale sig cub with the stock landing gear.

Look at this site for aftermarket undercarriage - looks really nice.

www.piperj3gear.com

good luck with the kadet today

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Not only is it nice, it works!!!! One of the best store bought LG I have ever seen in use.

littlebearcub

My Feedback: (4)

Thank you for your efforts! I appreciate it very much. I'm going for that one over the Robart, will save 20 dollars!!! Will help in the long run. Looks like nice gear, I'm going to order it soon along with most everything i'll need to complete it wheels etc. Wish there was a good scale tailgear to go with it? Stock one should work fine id say.

Didn't get a chance to fly the kadet today, but thats alright, I had a life changing experience I wouldn't have got the chance to witness if I was at the flying field I went to a local airshow called the northwest flyfest in Eugene, and talked to a cute girl at the EEA booth that introduced me to her dad and got to go on my first single engine flight in a Piper Cherokee. He gave me the chance to take control but not having enough confidence I didn't choose to do so, which you can imagine I highly regret now! I've flown alot on microsoft simulator so I'm familiar with controls and instrumentation, but I'm way too much of a scaredy cat these days Oh well something tells me ill have alot more oppertunities I just havent felt the same since that flight!!! I feel good!!! Sooo good. Sooo good. I knew that I would now.

I havent joined the r/c club yet so I doubted theyd let me fly before I paid my dues, and even if they did it will seem more professional this way that I join first then fly. They have a club meeting this tuesday and will have a chance to meet and plan ahead with the intro pilots for this next weekend.

Stay tuned for I plan to do a complete organized tutorial on my cub build to lay a clear path for new builders, to hopefully give them some useful information, I know alot of people like building cubs these days. I am fairly new myself but I beleive that we all have something to offer to the world

Good day!!!

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Shawn, you won't go wrong with either brand, but I also favor the Wm. Wallace gear (the link posted by Andrew above) for the 1/5 scale Cub. The mounting brackets are a bit smaller, and closer to scale, on the Wallace gear, but it is very durable. I have the 1/5 Sig, with the Wallace gear, and it has worked well for over four years with no problems. Saving $25 over the Robart doesn't hurt either, that will pay for a servo.

The Wallace gear uses rubber bands, the Robart uses neoprene o-rings. The rubber bands will degrade from nitro exhaust, but replacing them is no big deal, plus you can fine-tune the shock absorption better by varying how many you use on each side. I tried o-rings, but found that their rebound wasn't as good, and they stayed relaxed longer before returning to original size, so the gear would sag for a bit after a landing.

Here are some pics of the Robart gear side-by-side with the Wallace gear. The Wallace gear is the one mounted to the fuselage. BTW, you picked a great engine for your Cub. I have the older .65 on mine, it is perfect. The .62 is a bit lighter and shorter, if you mount it inverted it will fit completely within the cowl.

littlebearcub

My Feedback: (4)

WOW! Thanks khodges for the detailed post, it was of much help. You are a real asset here on RCU as ive observed past posts. I'm sending the check in the mail for the Wallace gear, wish they took visa, oh well. I like the profile of it more after looking at both. Couldn't have made a sure decision without your help. Thanks again!!!

I went to office max today and couldnt find the small rubberbands like the ones that come with, will have to do a little more searching. Where do you get yours? Rubber bands are usually made out of natural rubber correct? I was thinking of contacting an orthodontist for the bands people use on braces as they may use a more synthetic material (because natural rubber probably tastes bad in the mouth)that might hold up to fuel better.

I might also buy some "trial-run" metal springs from the hardware store and see how those work, maybe 2 on each side. May be a little too springy instead of having a dampening effect. Also looks harder to fit under the bungee covers. From the sounds of it the real cub used bungee like dampening, which I'll have to consider.

I've heard people using hair ties, which sounds like a good idea as rubber bands want to pull harder the more you stretch them out and a bungee has a constant rate of tension(better),but dont stretch as much(worse, if youve already got them under tension in the "spring up" position), I think. It's been awhile since ive seen one lol.

I'm also thinking about taking a trip to the fabric store and buying a foot or so of the elastic like material you would use around the waste or for pants or something (you know what im talking about) which comes in diffent thicknesses. If youve ever seen them come apart youll notice its a weave of many small rubber strands with strands of thread, there seems to be a real advantage with something like that over one single rubber band. Kind of like how the main spans holding the suspenders down to the deck on the golden gate bridge consists of many small (about an 1/8 of an inch) steel cables inside of one big hollow tube. I think they do this so the bridge flex's better with wind and temperatures, which tells me this engineering has to work on a small scale, although steel is different structurally than elastomers. The elastic will be stronger than one rubberband, not that it's important with the small load but it may also have a smoother, constant dampening. (something has to be better whether i realize it or not).

I see what your talking about the O-rings, makes a lot of sense. Will know not to even try them!!! Saves me some trouble, thank you for that haha. I may try to capture the best of both worlds and use an O-ring with a rubber band and or hairtie and who knows may behold a perfect combination over each one individually. I'll try each one and see which one I like best before and after takeoff and landing. They all seem to not have the ability to hold up over a long period of time.

Switching out rubber bands every so often isnt so difficult

Now about the motor, you said youve got the .65, at what throttle will I need to sustain scale flight? I've been thinking about this. I was figuring the saito .56 (or whatever it was?)would have been perfect for scale but I might need the extra power if in a risky situation that would benefit from the extra throttle. I'll probably most of the time fly it full scale style[8D] so if there is any power left over ill probably not use it, which will be good on the motor. Thats what I was hoping to fit it completely under the cowl. I think it might be hard to fit an igniter to the plug so was going to find an automatic or remotre ignition, but couldnt. Do these only exist for gas engines or are custom? Prett sure ive seen them for glow engines even 2-strokes. would really like some info on this area as i still want to encorperate an auto or remote starting system. It IS only wires and electricity! May still use the dummy engines or just cut and bend air vents and make a service door for needle adjustments. Will see whan the time comes.

Also did you use the nylon pushrods supplied? I heard theres better ways to hook up linkage like cables, will look into that.

I was going to go for the twin .62 but the price tag was a little much and would have to cut up the cowl quite a bit. I like the sound of it being complety inside the cowl. I'm going to save the dual for a bigger scale plane, maybe a BUSA 1/3 super cub? hehehe

Again, thank you tons for the pictures!!!!!!! My respect goes out to you!!!!!!!

Got to go watching the closing cerimony of the olympic games I'll try to keep my future posts short and sweet, not filled with my jumbled and disorganized thoughts

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I use the # 64 rubber bands from Hobbico, that are used to hold trainer wings in place. You can buy a whole box at a time and they'll last a while. Whatever they are made from, glow fuel eventually degrades them and they lose their elasticity. I've tried elastic bands, hair ties, everything you mention. The hair ties would work okay, but the cloth wrapping makes them bulkier and it's hard to get enough on the gear to have enough rebound. Rubber bands seem to work best, but experiment to see what you like best. One thing, though, you will need more than you think to make the gear stiff enough to prevent it from collapsing on even a gentle landing. I use three of the #64 bands on EACH side, and they are wrapped between the hooks about three turns each. With the proper tension, you should just be able to extend the gear legs manually.

If I put a completely new set of bands on my gear, and clean them after each flying session, they last about a month before getting too soft.

As far as engine power goes, I can cruise at 1/2 throttle, but my plane weighs eleven pounds. I use a 14-6 Master Airscrew K-series prop, looks close to "scale". A wooden prop would be even closer, but they get beat up more easily. Your .62 will be more than adequate power for any type of scale flying, you could even add floats and it would be enough. It is the same size as the .56 physically, you can tell the .62 cylinder is a bit "fatter" if you have both engines side-by-side. I found that the two holes in the cowl front are sufficient for cooling as long as you have a larger "slot" at the bottom of the cowl.

I started out using an on board glow system since I mounted the engine inverted. It is nice insurance, and makes starting really easy, but not really necessary once you get the engine tuned. I did, however, lower the tank position about 1/2 inch. The way the kit builds, there is a tank 'floor', that is tabbed to fit the fuse sides. You can just cut the tabs off and trim the floor as needed to make it fit a bit lower. If you decide on a side mounted engine, moving the tank isn't necessary. A remore glow would be nice, as the glow plug is a bit "out of the way" when the engine is inverted.

Here are some pics of my engine installation, and my dummy on the cowl. I used a DuBro isolation mount, which required recessing the firewall. A standard nylon mount and the slightly smaller size of the .62 should make this mod unnecessary. The only thing I don't like about the newer Saitos is the muffler. It's bulky and ugly when trying to make it look good on a scale plane. The header is also straight, instead of bent 90 degrees, like the older style I have. Saito makes a 90 degree adapter that looks like a round "button", or you can look for an old style cannister muffler if you want.

littlebearcub

My Feedback: (4)

I guess I should have looked at the hobby sites first for rubber bands (duh!). I'm going to take your advice and just use the rubber bands, after thinking it over it will be the best solution.

I was going to buy the du-bro mount, good thing I didnt becuase I dont want to recess the firewall, looks pretty tricky!!! I'll go for the supplied nylon mount but somehow thought it was only for 2-strokes, but was wrong.

You mean my muffler wont look like yours? I thought all four stroke mufflers were a "cannister" style. I'm glad you told me about it so I dont get any surprises. I'll have to see if I like the new ones or you said it ill search down the old style one. Whats the new one look like anyways I havent been able to find any pictures?

I'm definately going inverted, so ill need the 90 degree adapter because the muffler strait out the side doesnt sound like a good look! [:'(] Just as long as the header has the same mounting configuration. Why did you have to lower the tank for an inverted engine setup? Does the tank floor get in the way of the blind nuts/mounting screws? Does it also have to do with the fact that your firewall is also recessed? Thats the only thing I can think of at the moment.

Where would I go about finding an onboard glow system? Should I just make one I've got a pretty good idea of how it would work. I looked on towerbobbies and couldnt find anything of that nature. May have to upgrade my rx pack its a 4.8V 700mah nicd although its only 1.5 volts to get the plug hot and hopefully for not very long. I think I remember hearing 4 strokes are easier to tune and maintain than 2 strokes. I dont think tuning would be a problem, I just figured it would be very difficult to reach under to attatch/detatch the plug igniter, what is the usual method for you when you start it up? Maybe I'm a bit confused on how its done.

Wood props all the way[8D]

littlebearcub

My Feedback: (4)

Well I checked out the new style muffler and I don't like it a whole lot, will use it if I have to. It's already bent at an angle to it will be pointing out the side, would like it to go more out the bottom, the adapter would fix that. Looked on ebay and cant find the old one. Maybe will have to start a new thread and see if anyone has one, hope it will fit my new motor. Whyd they have to change? The old one was so perfect? Looks more efficient and overall more asthetic.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not sure why they changed the mufflers, but all sizes of Saitos have the new one. I guess it's quieter than the old one, but I can't really tell the difference in sound.

If you happen to find an older style muffler, make sure it is the correct pipe size, which varies depending on the engine displacement. There are three different diameters of exhaust header (and exhaust port on the engine): 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. The 10mm is the one you need, all the "small blocks" use that size.

The right angle adapter that fits your engine is Saito part # SAI100TI140. Using that and the standard header and muffler should allow the muffler to exit the bottom of the cowl, but if you can find the old muffler, it will look better, IMO

I really wouldn't bother with an on-board glow. Extra weight, not all that complex to set up, but another $50 or so. A remote plug adapter would be fine to make access for starting easier. There are several out there. I'd use a separate battery for any on-board glow, a single 1.2 NiCd or NiMH around 1500-2000 mAh would give all the energy you'd need for several days of starting. I just wouldn't use the Rx battery, in case the glow was left on it would suck the "life" out of your Rx power.

Some nylon mounts have arms that are too short for a 4-stroke. You need enough clearance between the carb body and firewall to allow movement of the throttle arm, which makes the engine stick out a bit more away from the firewall than a 2-stroke.

littlebearcub

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the input. It's good to know that theres three different sizes. Thanks for the part number too, will just type that right into the search bar on towerhobbies or horizon. I like sullivan products so will go with their remote system, but wont need it until near completion. Just got the motor today!!! Like christmas again!!! Dont mind the look of the new muffler so will just get that adapter. I got a call today from William Wallace from piperJ3gear.com he was a nice fellow, he asked me which kit I had. Guess his gear is slightly different for each kit. Didnt get a chance to ask in detail about it. It's a pleasure to do business with him!!! "Hello?" "Yes this is William Wallace your landing gear man." Again he's a real pleasure and has a lot of integrity.

After what you said I know that the nylon mounts supplied are too short. Am going with the du bro mount and hopefully wont have to recess my firewall, I guess I may be forced to and will start doing my homework. Thank you khodges! Am starting a new thread soon on my cub project. At first it was going to be a full span yellow cub, now im going for more of a clipped wing white and blue color scheme of hazel sigs plane.

mudmarine

The reason for lowering the tank when the motor is inverted is because you want to keep the centerline of the tank just slightly below the spraybar in the carb. When the motor is inverted, the spraybar is in a lower position than when the motor is on its side.

drtechnics

Hi friends....can somebody tell me the brad and wher to buy the piper J3.....i see in the pictures.....also the fake real engine detail come with the airplane or separate...?..

Thank

vicarh

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The link posted does not seem to be working. Anyone knows if it is correct or has changed?

dant-RCU

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Due to health reasons, Mr. Wallace closed his business. To my knowledge
no one has stepped in to continue making the gear.

I was fortunate to get one before he ceased operations.

Dan

5blue

I too love my wallace gear - its the best

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

you can get the wallace gear from this site they picked up the rights from wallace thecublandinggear.com , phone is 503-655-3243 .

charlie