Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I bought this Big Bingo about 5 years ago at the RC Flea Market in Lebanon, Pa. I figure its time to build it. At one time I owned nothing but ACE radio equipment, MicroPro 8000 transmitter, several recievers and many servos, but alas they are history.

sodbuster 1

Hey Dave,

I've got one of these hanging on the garage ceiling.
Heavy as a boat!!
I've never weighed it, but I would bet you it's probably around 25 lbs.
I didn't build it and it came with a Q35 in it that just was nowhere enough power for it.
Really needs a 50cc. I ended up putting in a Q50 .
Plus whoever did build it used fabric of some type and doped it.
I had heard that they use a PVC pipe in the wing. Probably help if you replaced it with aluminum. Everything I think is made out of heavy ply too.
Actually, anything you can do to lighten the thing up would help tremendously.

I will say the thing is built like a tank, but man is it HEAVY!!!
Like everything from the 80's.......

Another thing I did was split the elevators and use two servo's. Replaced the rear control rods with big Nyrods. Didn't like the arrow shafts. Never have.

Had an ACE giant Seamaster back then too that weighed close to a 747.
Went in like one too LOL

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The thing I like about the Bingo and the 4 series ACE planes was that anything that would get them moving would fly them. They don't require much power.

alfredbmor

Hobbsy, what is the fabric enclosed in the structure?

Al

sodbuster 1

I beg to differ on this one......
Another club member has the .60 size version. Flies great.But if memory serves he's using a Saito 1.20
He couldn't believe how heavy this one is though.
All I can tell you is with a Q35 it would just fly. Any maneuvers were next to impossible.
If you got into trouble there'd be no chance of powering out of it. It would almost fall out of the sky.
So I put in a Q42. Not a lot better.
Finally with a Q50 it flies ok. Afterwards I found out (since I don't have any documentation myself) that the 50 is the recommended motor for it. Least in gas
We're not talking anything outlandish, just enough to fly it scale and do a decent loop and roll.

What size engine do you have in there?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Al, that stuff is called Matt something or other, I'll get the right name for you later today.

Sod that is a 17 year old High Compression Saito 1.50, its one of the very first runs of the 1.50 hence the chrome and black configuration. A lot of guys whined mightily about those high compression ones but I love it, it demands respect or you'll have to go to the neighbors to find the prop. I also have a high compression .80 that is about a year newer. The 1.50 turns a Mejzlik 16x8 at just under 9,500 on 15% nitro and about 200 less on 5% nitro.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Great thread Hobbsy. I love all the DB Mathews designs. My second plane was an Ace 4-40 with an OS .40 Surpass. Man, I miss that one. One day, I'm going to build his 4-40 Bipe.

David

sodbuster 1

Maybe with that RPM and the weight savings of that motor it'll fly ok.
Guess time will tell.

The Q50 probably weighs around 5 lbs and swinging a 20 x 8 prop at 6,800
Prop sits pretty close to the ground so I made up my own set of gear to pick it up 2"

Tell you what though if it were me knowing what I know now, if I were to build one of these,
I would lightening hole the heck out of the fuse.

Is it true it has a pvc pipe in the wing?? Can't tell with the covering in place.
I was told it makes up the leading edge.
I was also told all the ribs are ply

by the way. you might want to look at this
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_65...tm.htm#6890509

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Dave, I actually have a 440 in the bones that I need to finish, I have a choice of two Saito .40s for it one is the old design like the .50, .56 and .62 and other is the newer .40a.

Sod and Alfred, tomorrow I'll take pics of that stuff so you can view it first hand. Thanks, Dave

Cherokee Flyer

I have one with a G-38 and it flys fine. Does yours include the metal straps that go across the wing on the bottom? Yes, the leading edge is a bit of pipe workes great.

sodbuster 1

mine does on the straps.
could ask you both this.
When I bought mine it didn't have a removable joiner tube for the wing halves and I saw the tube sockets that looked like they had to have been meant for an aluminum tube so went ahead and made one to fit.
is it supposed to use one?

Larry,
when you say yours flies fine, what do you mean by that? Is it capable of doing more than just flying around in circles and doing a slow lazy loop?
I'm mot trying to be a wiseguy, really curious.
Maybe I should actually go weigh mine.................

Hey you guys are obviously from "back in the day" like me, either of you ever had a Pilot Pitts?
Another "Deal" I got myself into .... When will I ever learn....... lol
I had asked around a couple months ago and got one or two responses but none that were really much help. Trying to find a set of plans or a copy.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes, this kit has both the aluminum straps and the aluminum joiner tube that slips into two fiber tubes that you build into the wing. Doc Mathews designed the Bingo and 4 series to, "fly on the wing" and and not on power. The Big Bingos I've seen had OS and Saito 1.20s on them and were used to haul cameras around and as tow planes.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here are the phenolic tubes and the aluminum wing joiner, that fuzzy stuff in the verticla fin and stab is called Polymat.

mikenlapaz

The Polymat looks like the material they use locally in the sealing of concrete roofs and a/c exterior ducting.. It is a random direction poly fiber mat. I have experimented briefly made a small tubes and stuck some together with both CA and Titebond. The stuff is dirt cheap and is sold in 8" and 1 meter widths locally. Share your experiences with the stuff.

Hobbsy : Just reviewed your pics and spotted the roll of Polymat. Do you just use titebond to adhere to the wood? What prep or procedure do you use on the Polymat in the open spaces?

alfredbmor

Thanks for the info Hobbsy, I have never used before and looks good to ad some strengh to wide open bay areas.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike and Al, I have a huge bottle of the wood colored TiteBond and that is what I used for the most part on the large pieces of balsa around the perimeter, I used SuperPhatic on the little cross braces. The open surfaces don't have anything on them. I tore a muscle in my back Saturday and today my Dr. sentenced me to three days bed rest, so I'm stuck here in the house watching movies etc. Bummer. The inner portions of the wing of course will be 30 minute epoxy from Bob Smith, I use his adhesives exclusively except for the TiteBond.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You can view the original article that was in The February 1991 Model Aviation on the AMA archives

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanyou Jim, I won't be workin on it for a few days, I tore a back muscle below my right kidney Saturday and got sentenced to 3 days bed rest. Gittin old is sure gittin old.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I hope the cut-away image of the Big Bingo shows up for you guys? It sure looks good on my Power Mac but that doesn't mean it shows up on another computer.

You may have to pull some tricks to get the pipe to stick to the ribs? I would suggest plumbers PVC pipe cement to penetrate the pipe with some 3/4 oz fiber glass cloth strips brought up onto the plywood ribs and held onto the ribs with Epoxy? Will medium CA penetrate the pipe? Maybe just CA? I know epoxy will just peel off the pipe.

Good luck with your back. Call me when you can.

Jim

mikenlapaz

Hobbsy, I think my question may have been stated unclearly. I was primarily interested in your experience in either painting covering the Polymat.

What prep or procedure do you use on the Polymat in the open spaces? Anyone else out there familar with Polymat? Tell us more.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike the PolyMat is on either side of the 1/8th" ply core so it is not going to be painted or touched by the covering, the outer frame will keep the covering about an 1/8th inch away from it.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Like this.

BigBird1

My Feedback: (4)

I've got one with a G62, CH ignition up front. It's a lead sled, flies great.
Also have one in the box.

BB1

saintcreed

My Feedback: (205)

I've got one of these I built 20 years ago, and it comes in at just over 15 pounds with a G26 up front that was coverted to ignition by Ralph Cunningham..great coversion...originally I had a Super Tiger 3000 up front....got tired of the fuel consumption....the plane flies as stated above..on it's wing not on speed..it wasn't meant to be a areobatic plane, just a nice Sunday flyer...does nice loops, knive edge is fine if you increase the rudder throw to 2", large horizontal figure 8's, and hammer head stalls...If I was too build it today, with what I know now in building techniques. I really think I could reduce the weight by a couple of pounds...do away with the pvc tube and replace with a balsa leading edge, lighting holes in the fuelauge sides and bottom...do away with the lite ply in the tail feathers and replace with 3/8" balsa strips built up..after getting away from where the wing tube is attached to the ribs...increase the spacing of the remaining ribs to be able to delete one or more ribs. (remember there isn't much stress out on the end of the wing)..then at the wing tips do away with the lite ply tip and just square the tip off. Like on a Sig Something Extra... or one could do away with the last rib and shorten the wing..that's what I did with my 60 size Bingo...makes it more areobatice...at least it did on the 60...just my 2 cents worth of information..

mikenlapaz

[quote][Mike the PolyMat is on either side of the 1/8th" ply core so it is not going to be painted or touched by the covering, the outer frame will keep the covering about an 1/8th inch away from it.
/quote]

What is the purposed of using the PolyMat then? I must be missing something obvious.