The BEST Covering Material
10-21-2008, 02:18 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mogadore,
OH
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The BEST Covering Material
I thought I would put up an interesting thread about the best covering material. I am in the process of building my first kit, a TF Cessna 182, and what to know everybodies opinions on what covering material to use. I want to cover mine white with some simple multi colored graphics. I also heard of mixing different brands of covering. For a first time coverer what do all you guys recomend and why? I want to yield the best look and the easiest process........
10-21-2008, 02:33 PM
#2
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Eustace,
TX
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
I like Ultracote. You can massage wrinkles out of it you'd never get out of Monocote. Ultracote is also tougher than Monocote. That being said, I'm going to try Solartex on my current project, seems a lot of people like it over most others.
10-21-2008, 02:39 PM
#3
Senior Member
RE: The BEST Covering Material
What is the best covering? No simple answer, depends on the size, type power (electric or internal combustion), type fuel used plus many other factors. For small models, you may even have to go to one of the ultra light stuff like silkspan or for the large one a fabric such as Ceconite, one of the Tex's or other fabrics or, for the in between sizes, one of the films such as Monocote, Ultracote, Oracover or ????. Be more specific in your requirements. Google will also give you lots of leads if you try "model coverings" or similar search words.
10-21-2008, 02:46 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central,
IN
Posts: 786
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
You mean [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHU91&P=0]this[/link] plane?
Me, personally, I'd recommend Ultracoat (also known as Oracover) because I believe it's a little easier and more forgiving to use. I would suggest reviewing MinnFllyer's great How-to [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=726]video[/link] on the subject as well. I believe he uses both ultracoat and Monocoat in his project.
Me, personally, I'd recommend Ultracoat (also known as Oracover) because I believe it's a little easier and more forgiving to use. I would suggest reviewing MinnFllyer's great How-to [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=726]video[/link] on the subject as well. I believe he uses both ultracoat and Monocoat in his project.
10-21-2008, 03:02 PM
#5
RE: The BEST Covering Material
Ultracote sticks with a lower temp and goes around corners a LOT easier than Monokote.
For that reason, it's pretty easy to put Ultracote stripes or graphics on top of a Monokote base. The Ultracote activates and sticks before you've come close to the heat required for shrinking or wrinkling the Monokote.
For that reason, it's pretty easy to put Ultracote stripes or graphics on top of a Monokote base. The Ultracote activates and sticks before you've come close to the heat required for shrinking or wrinkling the Monokote.
10-21-2008, 03:03 PM
#6
Senior Member
RE: The BEST Covering Material
i didnt try ultracoat yet..
the main reasons im using monokote:
i used monokote from the beginning mostly because i have that little piece left and i need to match it to the same material...
RCKen's tutorial was done with monokote i think and at minnflyers videos monokote was active and that is how i learned to cover.
monokote is the cheapest and you have many colors to choose from, also spray paint and trim solvent.
yes the wrinkles, well i learned how to avoid them, ignoring them is a good method too.
Alex
the main reasons im using monokote:
i used monokote from the beginning mostly because i have that little piece left and i need to match it to the same material...
RCKen's tutorial was done with monokote i think and at minnflyers videos monokote was active and that is how i learned to cover.
monokote is the cheapest and you have many colors to choose from, also spray paint and trim solvent.
yes the wrinkles, well i learned how to avoid them, ignoring them is a good method too.
Alex
10-21-2008, 03:22 PM
#7
My Feedback: (1)
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: Rcpilot
Ultracote sticks with a lower temp and goes around corners a LOT easier than Monokote.
For that reason, it's pretty easy to put Ultracote stripes or graphics on top of a Monokote base. The Ultracote activates and sticks before you've come close to the heat required for shrinking or wrinkling the Monokote.
Ultracote sticks with a lower temp and goes around corners a LOT easier than Monokote.
For that reason, it's pretty easy to put Ultracote stripes or graphics on top of a Monokote base. The Ultracote activates and sticks before you've come close to the heat required for shrinking or wrinkling the Monokote.
10-21-2008, 05:36 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mogadore,
OH
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: Rodney
What is the best covering? No simple answer, depends on the size, type power (electric or internal combustion), type fuel used plus many other factors. For small models, you may even have to go to one of the ultra light stuff like silkspan or for the large one a fabric such as Ceconite, one of the Tex's or other fabrics or, for the in between sizes, one of the films such as Monocote, Ultracote, Oracover or ????. Be more specific in your requirements. Google will also give you lots of leads if you try "model coverings" or similar search words.
What is the best covering? No simple answer, depends on the size, type power (electric or internal combustion), type fuel used plus many other factors. For small models, you may even have to go to one of the ultra light stuff like silkspan or for the large one a fabric such as Ceconite, one of the Tex's or other fabrics or, for the in between sizes, one of the films such as Monocote, Ultracote, Oracover or ????. Be more specific in your requirements. Google will also give you lots of leads if you try "model coverings" or similar search words.
10-21-2008, 05:45 PM
#10
RE: The BEST Covering Material
It's not better, it's not worse. The people that have posted here prefer to use Ultacoat over Monokote. However, there are others that prefer Monokote over Ultracoat. Either one will do a good job on your plane. It's almost a "Chevy vs. Ford" arguement. Everybody has their favorites and like to trash the other one. I've used both and had outstanding results with both. If asked what I prefer I would tell you that I like the finish I get with Monokote better than the Ultracoat. However, I will admit that for somebody starting out, or without a lot of experience, the Ultracoat is usually easier to apply. On the other hand, Monokote has more colors available than the Ultracoat does. So it really boils down to whichever one you prefer to use. There are pluses and minuses for both brands.
Ken
Ken
10-21-2008, 06:17 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
i really like koverall. i used to use monokote and ultrakote, but find that the koverall (when used with sitx it) does the best job on models with complex curves. and once its shrunk down, it stays that way. it takes more time and effort, but will produce amazing results. only down side, is u have to paint it.
10-21-2008, 07:29 PM
#15
RE: The BEST Covering Material
Monokote seems to have more tensile strength but not as flexible. The opaque colors are pretty solid. Ultra cote a little more flexible but the colors some times are not as opaque so you can see the wood grain sometimes. I like Koverall for fabric looks but the weave can be filled to make it look like a hard surface ; it also has no glue on it so you have to put it on the surface to be covered. Painted Coverite does not seem to shrink much so it has to be put on careful as big ones wont shrink out. You get a fabric look. Solartex has the color impregnated in the fabric. Fabric look unless filled and painted. Glass and resin has to be filled and painted. Probably the best look and not hard to do but has more steps. Dope and silk or silkspan similar as glass but you use dope like the resin in a way.
Flat surfaces are pretty easy; curves, flexibility is nice. If you have the flight control corrugations, there is no one better than the other.
Flat surfaces are pretty easy; curves, flexibility is nice. If you have the flight control corrugations, there is no one better than the other.
10-21-2008, 08:59 PM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mogadore,
OH
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: TFF
Monokote seems to have more tensile strength but not as flexible. The opaque colors are pretty solid. Ultra cote a little more flexible but the colors some times are not as opaque so you can see the wood grain sometimes. I like Koverall for fabric looks but the weave can be filled to make it look like a hard surface ; it also has no glue on it so you have to put it on the surface to be covered. Painted Coverite does not seem to shrink much so it has to be put on careful as big ones wont shrink out. You get a fabric look. Solartex has the color impregnated in the fabric. Fabric look unless filled and painted. Glass and resin has to be filled and painted. Probably the best look and not hard to do but has more steps. Dope and silk or silkspan similar as glass but you use dope like the resin in a way.
Flat surfaces are pretty easy; curves, flexibility is nice. If you have the flight control corrugations, there is no one better than the other.
Monokote seems to have more tensile strength but not as flexible. The opaque colors are pretty solid. Ultra cote a little more flexible but the colors some times are not as opaque so you can see the wood grain sometimes. I like Koverall for fabric looks but the weave can be filled to make it look like a hard surface ; it also has no glue on it so you have to put it on the surface to be covered. Painted Coverite does not seem to shrink much so it has to be put on careful as big ones wont shrink out. You get a fabric look. Solartex has the color impregnated in the fabric. Fabric look unless filled and painted. Glass and resin has to be filled and painted. Probably the best look and not hard to do but has more steps. Dope and silk or silkspan similar as glass but you use dope like the resin in a way.
Flat surfaces are pretty easy; curves, flexibility is nice. If you have the flight control corrugations, there is no one better than the other.
10-21-2008, 09:59 PM
#17
RE: The BEST Covering Material
That is a tough question. It is not hard as it use to be all there was available. Dope is paint ;it is also used to glue the silk down. The basics of it is you first dope every thing with clear dope a couple of times; with the silk wet you lay it out and brush and sometimes rub in with your fingers dope to bond it to the under coats. After a couple of more coats of dope and some light sanding use some dope based sanding sealer or laquer auto primer to fill the weave. Once smouth , paint with colored dope or some other fuel proof paint. Most people do not like the smell, but it can be a great finish. The cost of good silk can be a little expensive too. Glass is not much different except it is a little more sticky and you have to let it cure before moving to the next side. You might look into using poly and glass. You will still have to fill with auto primer and paint. I like finishing planes with paint so it is not too bad. I still use Monokote too.
10-21-2008, 10:14 PM
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mogadore,
OH
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: TFF
That is a tough question. It is not hard as it use to be all there was available. Dope is paint ;it is also used to glue the silk down. The basics of it is you first dope every thing with clear dope a couple of times; with the silk wet you lay it out and brush and sometimes rub in with your fingers dope to bond it to the under coats. After a couple of more coats of dope and some light sanding use some dope based sanding sealer or laquer auto primer to fill the weave. Once smouth , paint with colored dope or some other fuel proof paint. Most people do not like the smell, but it can be a great finish. The cost of good silk can be a little expensive too. Glass is not much different except it is a little more sticky and you have to let it cure before moving to the next side. You might look into using poly and glass. You will still have to fill with auto primer and paint. I like finishing planes with paint so it is not too bad. I still use Monokote too.
That is a tough question. It is not hard as it use to be all there was available. Dope is paint ;it is also used to glue the silk down. The basics of it is you first dope every thing with clear dope a couple of times; with the silk wet you lay it out and brush and sometimes rub in with your fingers dope to bond it to the under coats. After a couple of more coats of dope and some light sanding use some dope based sanding sealer or laquer auto primer to fill the weave. Once smouth , paint with colored dope or some other fuel proof paint. Most people do not like the smell, but it can be a great finish. The cost of good silk can be a little expensive too. Glass is not much different except it is a little more sticky and you have to let it cure before moving to the next side. You might look into using poly and glass. You will still have to fill with auto primer and paint. I like finishing planes with paint so it is not too bad. I still use Monokote too.
10-22-2008, 04:56 AM
#19
RE: The BEST Covering Material
if your project is fully sheeted then use 3/4 oz fiberglass, if you have open areas use sig koverall. both can be applied with minwax water based polyurethane/polycrilic. the koverall needs sig stixit underneath and an iron to shrink it but it is a great product to work with. silk is expensive and dope has fumes. glass and poly is easy.
david
david
10-22-2008, 06:43 AM
#20
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Downingtown,
PA
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: dhal22
both can be applied with minwax water based polyurethane/polycrilic. the koverall needs sig stixit underneath.
both can be applied with minwax water based polyurethane/polycrilic. the koverall needs sig stixit underneath.
EG
10-22-2008, 09:21 AM
#22
Senior Member
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: HFrank
For it's strenght, durability, glossy finish and huge colour selection, MONOKOTE is my choice #1
For it's strenght, durability, glossy finish and huge colour selection, MONOKOTE is my choice #1
10-22-2008, 10:53 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: eroc144
I love koverall but normally apply it with dope. I've never read about applying koverall with WBPU - have you tried it? Can you do it w/o stix-it?
EG
ORIGINAL: dhal22
both can be applied with minwax water based polyurethane/polycrilic. the koverall needs sig stixit underneath.
both can be applied with minwax water based polyurethane/polycrilic. the koverall needs sig stixit underneath.
EG
10-22-2008, 12:40 PM
#24
RE: The BEST Covering Material
For my aerodynamics/engine test mules I use monokote because its light and patches so fast.
For WWI scale I use polyester dress liner because it is so cheap and looks just like linen.
For pattern planes I like 3/4 fiberglass and automotive paint, polished and waxed it looks so hot.
For WWI scale I use polyester dress liner because it is so cheap and looks just like linen.
For pattern planes I like 3/4 fiberglass and automotive paint, polished and waxed it looks so hot.
10-22-2008, 01:32 PM
#25
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mogadore,
OH
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The BEST Covering Material
ORIGINAL: CrateCruncher
For my aerodynamics/engine test mules I use monokote because its light and patches so fast.
For WWI scale I use polyester dress liner because it is so cheap and looks just like linen.
For pattern planes I like 3/4 fiberglass and automotive paint, polished and waxed it looks so hot.
For my aerodynamics/engine test mules I use monokote because its light and patches so fast.
For WWI scale I use polyester dress liner because it is so cheap and looks just like linen.
For pattern planes I like 3/4 fiberglass and automotive paint, polished and waxed it looks so hot.