WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

whats the diff between the straight stick and the oldtimer?
could it possibly be the wing airfoil?

thanks RCU

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The picture on the box and the title on the plans is the only difference. I bought one of each and built the Old Timer. I still have the Stick kit

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

is that A G62? FOR Power ?

thanks for the pics . was the building pretty straight foward? and is the fuse 1/4 ply like the
BIG BEE?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The stick/Old Timer plane is constructed with the same materials as the Big Bee. 1/8 lite ply fuselage etc.
The Big Bee shows a Zenoah G38 on the plans but I've seen much bigger engines on them and they were fine.

The Stick/Old Timer is a much smaller plane than a Big Bee and would do well with a Zenoah G26. The plans show a Super Tiger 2500. Mine in the pictures above has a John Deere/Homelite 30 engine that I converted and it has plenty of power. A friend had a stick with the old style Zenoah G23 (Kalt 22) engine and it was way under powered. But the K22 had a lot less power than the late style G23. I would say that a good running 25cc on up would be good on the stick. I wouldn't go bigger than the 33cc chainsaw type engines. You need an engine that will at least turn a 18-8 at 7000.

The picture below is a Big Bee with a 55cc Makita concrete saw engine done by Ralph Cunningham. The Big Bee is essentially a giant Kaos/Chaos on a stick fuselage. The flying surfaces are made like the Kaos planes

LunaSea

Old Timer kit includes a few extra parts to build sort of a "cowl" enclosure around the top and sides of the engine. I suspect that most builders (including me) did not use those parts. I think there may also be some MINOR differences in the outlines of the empennage. There is a LOT of wood in these planes (mostly pretty good quality with good parts fits), they build up VERY STRONG but a bit heavy. A lot of building, especially in the wing. Kit is "basic" in that it depends on the builder's experience for working out things like servo placement and control setups, some minor reinforcement with scap stock at stress points probably appropriate as well. It is a very good subject to use fabric covering on (either iron-on or conventional). Mine has a G38 that produces plenty of power for the plane and I think a good G26 would probably be fine, as well (note that I actually FLY a plane, not 3D stuff)... IMHO, these are very good kits that produce a good flying result for not a lot of $$$... Old Timers are available on eBay regularly for less than $100, can also be found (along with the Big Stick and several other models) on an internet website that specializes in Bridi planes, just do a GOOGLE search for "bridi planes"...

A few tips, additional width (chord) on the ailerons would make them more effective at low speeds as would increasing the size and chord of the rudder, elevators are adequate and are operable from a single high-torque servo if joined in the center with strong dowel. Flying wires for the tail surfaces are ESSENTIAL. I think the looks of the plane are improved (made to look more "old") by changing the shape of the ailerons so that they have more chord at the tips than at the root. This causes an optical illusion of a slightly swept wing. Since the ailerons need to be "widened" anyway, just take a proper lenght of 1" stock and cut it diagonally on its length and glue the resulting pieces to the included aileron stock (resulting in ailerons that are 1" wider at the tip than at the root). This mod will also require some extension to the wing tip formers to match them to the extended ailerons and should probably include moving the servos at least 1 rib bay outward to minimize twisting of the ailerons. It is very easy to place servos in the tail, especially if you build a small access panel into the bottom of the fuselage and fit some doublers inside the fuse side to allow for thicker material for servo screws (easy to do after basic fuse assembly). The wing center reinforcements (plywood) are MUCH longer than they need be, you can use the shorter one as the longest and shorten the other by at least one rib bay on each side with no problem (the planned method of insertion of these braces is probably one of the most challenging points of construction, requiring the ribs to be cut to remove material to allow insertion after the basic framework is built). The plan calls for inserting "sheeting" between the ribs in the middle 4 bays. I think it is much easier to trim the edges of these ribs prior to assembly so that you can run continuous sheeting OVER the ribs. This technique could be incorporated into the entire wing rib set forward of the main spars to convert the design to a "D-tube" style of wing which is stiffer than the kit design. The balsa spars are tough and the design (although looking somewhat flimsy) and with the full-span shear webs builds up into a very strong wing (I stress tested mine with about 50 pounds of static weight with no damage) that is easy to "fine tune" by twisitng out any warps during covering. Remember to include tubes in the wings as well as exit holes in the center section for servo wiring. The included landing gear is almost strong enough for a full-size plane and is also pretty heavy. Replacement with aluminum would be a good thing if you are concerned about weight. You can do yourself a real favor before beginning assembly of the fuselage by drawing all doubler and former placements on the fuse sides (remember to do a right and left one). That makes alignment and assembly go REALLY quickly on these parts. Fuse is a basic "box" of mostly plywood and is VERY strong but of reasonable weight.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There is a problem with the Old Timer/Bridi Stick in that it will lift off before you have effective aileron/rudder control. This will lead to disaster in a peel off to the left and crash.

Let the plane stay on the ground until flying speed is assured.

Also on approach if you add a little power, you can stall it if you are not careful and keep the nose down.

Mine floats very little. It lands like a Tripacer. So be careful about making it any heavier

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

luna sea, alot of good info . can the wing be sheeted? thanks w8ye for the flying tips.

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

If you want a smaller Bridi Stick the Air Cruiser 60 is a great kit as well. (Like all Bridi Kits.....)

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here's a link to the Bridi Kits page

http://www.bridiairplanes.com/hangar/index.html

LunaSea

yes, but it is already pretty thick, especially at the trailing edge (THICK ailerons). I also don't think it would "look right" if it was fully sheeted. It is supposed to look "old timer" and old airplanes had fabric over open structure for wings. This looks best if done the same (IMHO)... I limited mine to sheeting the center section (as noted in prior post). Looks good, plenty strong.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

luna , what is the wing cord?

LunaSea

plane not here with me, but it is about 15 inches... I will try to remember to measure it tonite...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I measured mine the chord including the 2" aileron is 16"

acemcduck

My Feedback: (17)

w8ye,
Thanks for the recommended engine output. I've got one ready to maiden minus a few odds and ends but I've been unsure about the weedie's power. Now I've got a good baseline to shoot for.




Thanks
Dave

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your's is very much like mine except for the color

Your Engine should be just right

flystright

My Feedback: (13)

w8ye,

Just recived my Bridi stick 90 kit in the mail today was looking over the plans and did not see what size of servo's to use. Trying to make list of things that I need to get started with building. Are thier any other posts on building this plane, would like to read.

Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I just used standard servos in mine. The wings have Hobbico ball bearing servos which are a Hitec 425 but the rest are just the Tower TS-53 servos which are a Futaba 3003 bushing type. I was worried about the rudder but have never had any trouble with it in the last five years.

But I used two servos on the elevators. One for each half. There has never been any trouble with the servos. The servos are in the tail area to help balance my gas engine.

flystright

My Feedback: (13)

w8ye

The S3000 is lighter? If so where would be a good placement for these servos? With 6 servos what size of battery would you use? All my planes I have now use 4.8v or 6v Nicd batteries. I have a 4.8v 2700 lying around. Would this be ok? I would like to use the same charger for all my planes. When using duel servos will I need to by Y harness or can I just use my radio? Spektrum Dx6i and a 6200 receiver ? What would be a good setup?

Thanks.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 2700 would be fine. I think I have a 1600 in mine

On mine I have the the ailerons and dual elevator servos on Y-harness.

On yours you can use a single quarter scale servo on the elevator and use two channels on the ailerons

flystright

My Feedback: (13)

Hi. Question wiil these servo work for bridi. (2 x MG995 Metal Gear High Speed & Torque Digi Servo) can but 4 servos for $45.00 new shipping Included. and will these servos with the spektrum DSM2 AR6200 receiver.

-Dimensions: 1.57" x 0.79" x 1.44" (40 x 20 x 36.5mm)
-Weight: 1.78oz / 48g (Servo Net Weight Only) Operating Speed (4.8V no load) : 0.17sec / 60 degrees
-Operating Speed (6.0V no load) : 0.13sec / 60 degrees
-Stall Torque (4.8V): (13kg/cm) (180oz/in.)
-Stall Torque (6.0V): (15kg/cm) (208oz/in.)
-Temperature Range: -30 to +60 Degree C
-Dead Band Width: 4usec
-Operation Voltage: 3.5 - 8.4Volts


Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Those 995 servos are strong enough for one to power the elevator. They are plenty good
Professional Speed MG995 Servo
Dimensions: 1.57" x 0.79" x 1.44" (40 x 20 x 36.5mm)
Weight: 1.78oz (48g)

Operating Speed (4.8V no load) : 0.17sec / 60 degrees
Operating Speed (6.0V no load) : 0.13sec / 60 degrees

Stall Torque (4.8V): (13kg/cm) (180oz/in.)
Stall Torque (6.0V): (15kg/cm) (208oz/in.)

The receiver you mentioned is good also

flystright

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks for the fast reply. Is the price in the ball park for these servos. What is a good operating voltage and battery size to use for this setup.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That's a good price

With all that servo power I'd have a lot of battery power on hand too. Try for 2400 - 2800 mah

vorona.russia

Very nice plane. I want it too. I write to http://www.bridiairplanes.com/hangar/oldtimer.html to calculate shiping to Russia.

Do You have photos of build-process?

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

8Y , CAN these bridi sticks be flipped over and converted to low wings ? or will the incedence be effected? also what is the real difference between the big bee wing and the oldtimer wing? besides the span