dignlivn

SeamusG,

The screws are from Dubro, the have a hex head. I do have a small lip
at the rear of the cockpit abou a 1/4 of an inch in front of the former.
I did not use glue on the windshield, just a narrow strip of covering (Fabric)
and the screws to hold it in place. So far so good, I have about 12 flights on her.
I'm using a Saito 82 and most of the grass runway to take off. My hog is
just under 8 lbs. I did not use any wing tip skids either. We have a crosswind
too at our field, so I tend to come in a bit hot and the hog floats forever it seems.

Good Luck on your Maiden.
What are you using for an Engine ?

Bob

SeamusG

Thx Bob,

My engine is a Saito 100 - should be ample (I know - understatement but we're at nearly 6000 feet and loose just a bunch of power). My hog weighs in at 8 lbs. on the nose. Em, grass - what a concept - just might be a bit more forgiving that our concrete.

dignlivn

Ah,

The Saito 100 should be great. I'm at 2500
ft. and sometimes (on take offs) wish I had
a little more power. Once airborne and the
prop unloads it flys just fine. I hope to go
Gas on my next plane, glow fuel is getting
out of sight.

Bob

chashint

I accept my beating.
I will try to pay better attention next time.

SeamusG

Hey Charlie - Ionly mess with guys with a sense of humor or live in TX, or both. I'm what a friend from TX would call a dumb yankee. A dumb yankee is a damn yankee that move back up "nawth". If Ican just get the nerve to maiden her.

chashint

Its all good.
I am sure the plane will fly real nice, you did an excellent job putting it together.
I am not all that great of a pilot and this plane was very hard for me to handle on the take off run.
One of my friends helped me mix just a little bit of right rudder with the throttle and this made it much easier for me run it straight down the runway on takeoff.
The mix was on a switch and once the plane was in the air it didn't need it, so I turned it off.
The plane will act like it is ready to fly before it really is so hold it on the ground until you get some speed built up.
As far as other flight characteristics; it would nose down with rudder input, this mostly made it hard for me to knife edge the plane and hold it on a line.
The rudder was powerful and there was plenty of it, in fact there was enough rudder it would turn up out of the knife edge, I think it could be possible do a sideways loop if someone was skillful enough to hold it on line.
The plane was very responsive to the ailerons and when it stalled it did not drop a wing, it just nosed down and would start flying again.
Without power my plane would sink pretty quickly, but it remained responsive to all the controls and was very easy to land.
I didn't get to fly mine all that much before it was rekitted, just when I was becoming comfortable with it something happened and the plane would not respond to the controls.
In a very short period of time I was really liking this plane and I will build another one sometime.

Smashmaster

Hey SeamusG
I was just looking at your gastank setup and I noticed the pink fuel line. Are you sure thats for glow fuel?
The reason I ask is because I used it on an ARF that came with it.(No problems) Soo on some other plane I thought colored fuel line would be good to identify which line is which. So I bought some at my hobbyshop without askingif theirs was good for glow. About 3 weeks later the line blew off my muffler and the motor died. The line from the hobby store wasn't ment for glow. I would hate to hear of a deadstick at the wrong time because your fuel line swelled up and blew off.
Just checking
Fred

osxpro

My Feedback: (51)

Just completed a refurb of my Hog Bipe. I bought mine a year ago at a swap meet. It came already built, but poorly. Initially, i did some work just to get it flying but I knew it had way more potential. I had a friend do a basic recovering and mount the Twin Saito. I did the rest. You can see in the pics where the nose was cut to accomodate the new engine. I installed JR 4735's all the way around (yes overkill but fast servos nonetheless! I also have a JR G500A mounted in the cockpit to control the rudder. Because of that gyro, this plane has no idea of what a choppy crosswind is! While I've been flying her for the past 9 months, I just took her back up this last weekend after the refurb. She flew incredibly! The Saiti twin Cyl mades this plane purr like a kitten at low speeds. Just an absolute joy to fly.
BTW, I fly the saito on 30% cool power that's been iced down. The Saito drops a cyl if you don't run high/cold nitro. It cost s a little more but she's worth it!

dignlivn

Very Nice Hog !


My pilot was looking at your pilot btw ,


Bob

Platinum

What kind of magnet did you use for the tank htch

SeamusG

Hey Platinum - been at Road America for just over a week so I'm a bit slow getting back with you.

My LHS has what he calls "super-magnets"- 10 in a pack for a couple of bucks. Diameter is just under 3/8".

SeamusG

I am SSSOOOOOtired of cute text editors!!!!
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SeamusG

SmashMaster - I did my research - looking to find a quality, large quantity fuel line that can be used both inside and outside the tank. This tubing has been used successfully on several hundred glow planes. It was purchased thru www.amainhobbies.com for $30 plus shipping for 50'.

Platinum

Thanks SeamusG for the information.

I started building my Hog bipe a week ago following your posts>

Thanks for those greats post.

Platinum

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

I have a hog that I bought used from a fellow in my club. I put a Saito 100 on it. This may be an outrageous idea to some, but I think the 100 is actually too much power. Full power takeoffs are like uncontrolled missile launches. A scale-like takeoff requires about 1/3 throttle. The 100 gives unlimited vertical. I think a Saito 82 would be about right, still plenty of power but not ridiculous power. (I'm 200' above sea level - your results may differ)

My hog is a little squirrely. It drops the left wing dramatically in a power-off stall. The previous owner crashed and rebuilt several times, so the airframe is a little out of true. My advice is to be sure to build true, use good solid control linkages, and maybe consider larger main wheels and a more rugged tailwheel assembly. Also, if you fly from a grass field, leave the wheel pants in the box. And keep your speed up on landing approach until you get a feel for its habits.

osxpro

My Feedback: (51)

I just completed my second Hog Bipe! Haven't flown it yet as my engine isn't broken in yet but. I put about 80 hours into it but it was well worth the time. She's a beauty!

vmsguy

Sure is.. Almost too pretty to fly..

..

..

Almost.

vmsguy

Sure is...

Almost too pretty to fly...


...


...


... Almost.


But, it'll probably look better in the air... Maybe inverted, low pass down the runway.. It'll look REAL GOOD then...

SeamusG

Very nice.

Em, how about a knife edge with the bottom facing the flight line!

Things that caught my attention ...
purple-n-white
white covering on fin's leading edge where it meets the fuse - actually, the covering on both the fin and stab
graphics on the top of the wing
subtle purple side stripe

Couple of questions ...
why the stab-fin support rods? I know, just need some additional weight to offset that twin
what size is the Saito twin?
do you know the "flight line" weight?

Again - very nice!

osxpro

My Feedback: (51)

Thanks for the complements. The empty weight on the Hog is 8 lbs 1 oz. When I was working on the build I knew I wanted the purple (plum monokote) and white, but I couldn't decide on a third color that would make the plane "pop". Once I began the covering I quickly realized the plum/wht was all I needed. The flying wires are somewhat asthetic but they do serve another purpose. You wouldn't think it but the Hog Bipe does a seriously nice rolling harrier! That puts a lot of stress on the tail. In addition to the rolling harriers, the gyro I have in the cockpit works that rudder to death in rough cross winds. Our field is located on the leeward side of a hill. When we get south westerly winds we get some hairy swirls that cause a plane to yaw like crazy.

The build was made easier by a few tools. I have 3 sealing irons (large and fine), a GP electric planer, GP aluminum straight edges (12", 24", 48"), and a 36 x 60 cutting mat. The electric planer is major time saver when it comes to shaving balsa and planing edges.

I spent a considerable time sanding and filling prior to covering. I did find a GREAT balsa filler product a home depot. HD carries a balsa colored wood filler in a squeeze tube. It's much easier to work with than the Hobbylite balsa filler in the plastic jar.
The other thing I found at HD was soft sanding blocks. THey were about 1/4 the cost of the ones you find at the LHS. The soft foam blocks are wonderful for sanding curves like leading edges.

The single most time consuming aspect of the build was of course - the covering. For the curves, I would double and quatruple sheets of monokote and place a french curve over them to make the cuts. This way I had all symetrical pieces

Oh, the Twin is a Saito 90TS. While the twin does not have tons of power, the bipe flies and sounds very scale. At low throttle the twins purrs like a kitten.

Now that I have twin, twins... I'm a happy man : )

One more kit to build for winter - I just need to find one that catches my eye, and one that fits assembled in my trailer : )

SeamusG

Thanks for the background. Looks like you've got this "thing"for twins. Maybe some day ...

Is this the stuff that you use?

BTW - optical illusion - the white based plane looks bigger than the purple/wht as the leading edge disappears. How does the purple leading edge show up on final approach?

osxpro

My Feedback: (51)

Yep, That's the filler alright! As far as the "optical illusion" goes, here's the reverse angle - I shot these pics with an ultrawide cannon lens at shallow field of depth... anyway!

osxpro

My Feedback: (51)

She's in the air fellas!

SeamusG

Sweet!

artash

My Feedback: (5)

Do you have the control throws for the Astro Hog Bipe?

Thanks