ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
03-08-2009, 09:12 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Wheel pants attachment modification
As I mentioned in earlier post, I do not like the idea of using 5 mm bolts (supplied in kit) for wheel axles. I really feel they would bend on landing. Here is what I did. BTW – This method would work with any model using aluminum gear legs and wheel pants (plastic or fiberglass).
I used DuBro 3/16” axles and drilled the legs to 5/16” to mount them. To save wear and tear on the elastic stop nuts that come with axles, I used 5/16” SAE fine thread nuts for temporary use until final assembly. I also marked the gear legs Left and Right so as to not get them backwards. They are different.
With the axles mounted, turn each nut so that a point is lined up with a bottom corner of the leg (see left side in picture) and mark where the point is. Now draw a radial line from axle hole to corner of leg. Mark point in the middle of radial line and center punch. There isn’t a lot of room for error here. Turn nut point to other corner and repeat. The third hole on each leg is halfway between nut and bend in leg – not critical location. When all 3 holes are center punched on both legs use a #44 drill bit in a drill press to drill the holes.
Cut wheel pants from vacuum forming sheet and trim until the halves fit together with no gaps but do glue them yet. Rough cut the wheel openings but be sure and leave enough material to trim after they are glued together.
On each inside half of pants, glue ½” wide 1/32” plywood strips to fill the step vacuum formed as gear leg guide on outside of pant. Next, glue 1/8” lite ply over the ply strips and leg area. Medium CA works great. Drill the axle location (indent in pants) with small drill bit and us progressively larger bits to 1/4 “. I used a reamer to open the holes to 5/16” so that axle bolt will just fit. (You can continue with drill bits if you want but be careful not to let bit grab pants.)
Now mount the inner wheel pants to the legs with the axles. Even though the pants have the indentions for leg location, I put the wheels on and installed on fuselage with tail gear in place to make sure the pants were at the same angle when mounted. If satisfied, remove legs from fuselage, lose the wheels and use the #44 drill bit again (in hand drill) to drill the 6 holes from leg side through the pants and lite ply backing plates. Take the axles off and drill just the pants with 1/8” drill bit. Assemble pants to legs again with axles and then use 2-56 allen head screws to seat T nuts inside pants.
Next thing is to take ‘em apart again and open up the 5’16” holes in pants so the axle bolt head will clear the pants see picture). I used a 12mm prop reamer to open holes and then rolled up sandpaper to finish to size. Now the pants can be attached to the legs independent of the axles.
Moving on – I used scrap outer tubing from Sullivan push rods as spacers on the axles, followed by 3/16” wheel collar – set screw not required (or use flat washer instead of collar as a bearing) to adjust wheels in center of pants. Get as close as possible but adjustments are easy by sanding nylon spacer or cutting a longer one. Mark each axle for side ( L or R).
Take the pants off again and glue the halves together. I use one clamp behind the wheel opening to hold them while glueing. For the cowl and wheel pants, I used Acetone and a #3 paint brush to join the pieces. It works extremely well, sets almost as fast as CA, and actually welds the plastic together. It also doesn’t mar the surface of the plastic if some runs out of the seam.
Almost done – Assemble axle with spacer, wheel collar, wheel, and another wheel collar. Using a extra fine Sharpy pen, mark the axle at the outer wheel collar. Do other side. Now bolt axle to leg with inner spacer and collar in place. Insert axle through hole on pant, put tire on axle, slide down and screw pant to leg. With the assembled pant check to see if wheel is correctly centered in pant. If not, adjust the inner sleeve as required and then remark outer end of axle as described above. Unscrew pant, remove wheel, and put pant back on. There is a very faint dimple on outer wheel pant where Pilot would have you drill a hole for 5mm bolt. Picture shows where I marked the bottom of the pant in line with this dimple. Measure the distance from the line you marked on the axle to the inside face of the outer pant. Cut another spacer this length.
The kit has vacuum formed reinforcements on the wheel pants sheet. Before cutting them out drill a hole through the center that matches the OD of your spacer tubing. Use a caliper to measure the tube OD and use the same, or slightly smaller size, drill bit. The tube should be a sung fit in the plastic. Note – If you are doing a different plane, or don’t have the reinforcement pieces from the kit, use a circle about the size if a quarter cut from 1/8” lite ply.
Press your last cut spacer into the reinforcement, take the pant screws out, lift up the pant just enough to slip a wheel collar and the spacer over axle and screw pant back to leg. Reinforcement should be against outer pant, axle lined up with dimple mark, and wheel spin freely. If there is no side play in wheel, sand end of outer spacer to adjust.
Take the wheel and collars off the axle and put pant back on leg. Slide reinforcement against outer pant and weld in place with Acetone.
Repeat above for other side.
With the pants modified this way, I do not feel it is necessary to add any kind of glassing or such on the inside. You will find that they are very ridged. The outer wheel collars are the only ones that need the set screw used (with flat on axle).
As I mentioned in earlier post, I do not like the idea of using 5 mm bolts (supplied in kit) for wheel axles. I really feel they would bend on landing. Here is what I did. BTW – This method would work with any model using aluminum gear legs and wheel pants (plastic or fiberglass).
I used DuBro 3/16” axles and drilled the legs to 5/16” to mount them. To save wear and tear on the elastic stop nuts that come with axles, I used 5/16” SAE fine thread nuts for temporary use until final assembly. I also marked the gear legs Left and Right so as to not get them backwards. They are different.
With the axles mounted, turn each nut so that a point is lined up with a bottom corner of the leg (see left side in picture) and mark where the point is. Now draw a radial line from axle hole to corner of leg. Mark point in the middle of radial line and center punch. There isn’t a lot of room for error here. Turn nut point to other corner and repeat. The third hole on each leg is halfway between nut and bend in leg – not critical location. When all 3 holes are center punched on both legs use a #44 drill bit in a drill press to drill the holes.
Cut wheel pants from vacuum forming sheet and trim until the halves fit together with no gaps but do glue them yet. Rough cut the wheel openings but be sure and leave enough material to trim after they are glued together.
On each inside half of pants, glue ½” wide 1/32” plywood strips to fill the step vacuum formed as gear leg guide on outside of pant. Next, glue 1/8” lite ply over the ply strips and leg area. Medium CA works great. Drill the axle location (indent in pants) with small drill bit and us progressively larger bits to 1/4 “. I used a reamer to open the holes to 5/16” so that axle bolt will just fit. (You can continue with drill bits if you want but be careful not to let bit grab pants.)
Now mount the inner wheel pants to the legs with the axles. Even though the pants have the indentions for leg location, I put the wheels on and installed on fuselage with tail gear in place to make sure the pants were at the same angle when mounted. If satisfied, remove legs from fuselage, lose the wheels and use the #44 drill bit again (in hand drill) to drill the 6 holes from leg side through the pants and lite ply backing plates. Take the axles off and drill just the pants with 1/8” drill bit. Assemble pants to legs again with axles and then use 2-56 allen head screws to seat T nuts inside pants.
Next thing is to take ‘em apart again and open up the 5’16” holes in pants so the axle bolt head will clear the pants see picture). I used a 12mm prop reamer to open holes and then rolled up sandpaper to finish to size. Now the pants can be attached to the legs independent of the axles.
Moving on – I used scrap outer tubing from Sullivan push rods as spacers on the axles, followed by 3/16” wheel collar – set screw not required (or use flat washer instead of collar as a bearing) to adjust wheels in center of pants. Get as close as possible but adjustments are easy by sanding nylon spacer or cutting a longer one. Mark each axle for side ( L or R).
Take the pants off again and glue the halves together. I use one clamp behind the wheel opening to hold them while glueing. For the cowl and wheel pants, I used Acetone and a #3 paint brush to join the pieces. It works extremely well, sets almost as fast as CA, and actually welds the plastic together. It also doesn’t mar the surface of the plastic if some runs out of the seam.
Almost done – Assemble axle with spacer, wheel collar, wheel, and another wheel collar. Using a extra fine Sharpy pen, mark the axle at the outer wheel collar. Do other side. Now bolt axle to leg with inner spacer and collar in place. Insert axle through hole on pant, put tire on axle, slide down and screw pant to leg. With the assembled pant check to see if wheel is correctly centered in pant. If not, adjust the inner sleeve as required and then remark outer end of axle as described above. Unscrew pant, remove wheel, and put pant back on. There is a very faint dimple on outer wheel pant where Pilot would have you drill a hole for 5mm bolt. Picture shows where I marked the bottom of the pant in line with this dimple. Measure the distance from the line you marked on the axle to the inside face of the outer pant. Cut another spacer this length.
The kit has vacuum formed reinforcements on the wheel pants sheet. Before cutting them out drill a hole through the center that matches the OD of your spacer tubing. Use a caliper to measure the tube OD and use the same, or slightly smaller size, drill bit. The tube should be a sung fit in the plastic. Note – If you are doing a different plane, or don’t have the reinforcement pieces from the kit, use a circle about the size if a quarter cut from 1/8” lite ply.
Press your last cut spacer into the reinforcement, take the pant screws out, lift up the pant just enough to slip a wheel collar and the spacer over axle and screw pant back to leg. Reinforcement should be against outer pant, axle lined up with dimple mark, and wheel spin freely. If there is no side play in wheel, sand end of outer spacer to adjust.
Take the wheel and collars off the axle and put pant back on leg. Slide reinforcement against outer pant and weld in place with Acetone.
Repeat above for other side.
With the pants modified this way, I do not feel it is necessary to add any kind of glassing or such on the inside. You will find that they are very ridged. The outer wheel collars are the only ones that need the set screw used (with flat on axle).
03-10-2009, 09:46 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Thanks szig
Cargo Net
I just finished my cargo net today. It took me several months to find the material that would look close to 1:1. White fish net panty hose (or stockings) is what I discovered. Found them at a mall store called SunTropic. Be prepared for a funny look when you as for them. I explained that I needed the material for a model but am not sure they believed me as a few stores asked what size I wanted. White is not easy to find.
1. Install the 6 hooks in the fuselage - Buy tiny screw eyes and cut off 1/8" from end of eye to make into a hook; pin drill holes in edge of bulkhead for hooks to screw into.
2. Cut out a template the size you want the finished net to be – use something stiff like corrugated paper (cardboard box). Mark the location for the middle hooks. Wrap with wax paper.
3. Place template on smooth surface and use masking tape to position fish net to table so that diamond pattern is equal top to bottom and side to side over template. Do not tape to template.
4. Using scrap plastic from vacuum formed parts (I used .015 white vinyl sheet), cut strips 1/8" wide. There will be 6 strips, one between each hook location.
5. Glue the strips to the fish net at the edges of the template with canopy glue (used for all assembly) one at a time and weight down until glue dries.
6. When glue has dried, remove tape from net but do not remove net from template (will be stuck if a few places from glue). Cut net with good scissors at edge of template & plastic strips.
7. Using ¼” double bias tape (from fabric store), cut a length for each edge. Apply glue to the plastic strip and press tape down (be sure to open up the center fold). Weight this down and let glue dry. When all for pieces are secure, remove cargo net from template and cut out a small section of exposed tape at the side hook locations.
8. On a sheet of paper trace the template outline. Place paper on building board and cover with wax paper. With plastic strip side down, use pins against inside of strips to get cargo net to stay in shape of outline on paper.
9. Cut a length of elastic cord (very small diameter – fabric store again) long enough to go all the way around the perimeter of the net. Tie a square knot so there is some tension when placed over pins at hook locations – knot at center of bottom of net.
10. Lay open the bias tape and run a small bead of glue along the outer edge of one strip. Be careful as you do not want any glue to get on the elastic cord. Fold around the cord and press down in the net. Weight down again until glue has dried. After all 6 sections are done – so it the project.
Cargo Net
I just finished my cargo net today. It took me several months to find the material that would look close to 1:1. White fish net panty hose (or stockings) is what I discovered. Found them at a mall store called SunTropic. Be prepared for a funny look when you as for them. I explained that I needed the material for a model but am not sure they believed me as a few stores asked what size I wanted. White is not easy to find.
1. Install the 6 hooks in the fuselage - Buy tiny screw eyes and cut off 1/8" from end of eye to make into a hook; pin drill holes in edge of bulkhead for hooks to screw into.
2. Cut out a template the size you want the finished net to be – use something stiff like corrugated paper (cardboard box). Mark the location for the middle hooks. Wrap with wax paper.
3. Place template on smooth surface and use masking tape to position fish net to table so that diamond pattern is equal top to bottom and side to side over template. Do not tape to template.
4. Using scrap plastic from vacuum formed parts (I used .015 white vinyl sheet), cut strips 1/8" wide. There will be 6 strips, one between each hook location.
5. Glue the strips to the fish net at the edges of the template with canopy glue (used for all assembly) one at a time and weight down until glue dries.
6. When glue has dried, remove tape from net but do not remove net from template (will be stuck if a few places from glue). Cut net with good scissors at edge of template & plastic strips.
7. Using ¼” double bias tape (from fabric store), cut a length for each edge. Apply glue to the plastic strip and press tape down (be sure to open up the center fold). Weight this down and let glue dry. When all for pieces are secure, remove cargo net from template and cut out a small section of exposed tape at the side hook locations.
8. On a sheet of paper trace the template outline. Place paper on building board and cover with wax paper. With plastic strip side down, use pins against inside of strips to get cargo net to stay in shape of outline on paper.
9. Cut a length of elastic cord (very small diameter – fabric store again) long enough to go all the way around the perimeter of the net. Tie a square knot so there is some tension when placed over pins at hook locations – knot at center of bottom of net.
10. Lay open the bias tape and run a small bead of glue along the outer edge of one strip. Be careful as you do not want any glue to get on the elastic cord. Fold around the cord and press down in the net. Weight down again until glue has dried. After all 6 sections are done – so it the project.
03-18-2009, 04:55 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
I have been busy cleaning out my shop. As you see in the first picture, the RC is setting on my table saw, I'm working on cabinets and a L shaped work bench in the corner of my shop. I'm also installing 3 big 4 X 8 foot wall boards you seed in stores where you place sliding hooks to hang your tools and stuff, ( got from a store going out of business ) after I get that finished my work bench in the middle of my shop will be free of junk that should be in the corner, so I'll room to get the RC going. .
Ron
Man that net look great. Well worth the question of what size of hose do you ware. Out of the hundreds of picture I have, I have never seen the net in any of them, but last night I found a great picture of it. It is really good picture, so let me know if you don't have this one and I e-mail it to you full rezz.. And the AC panel.
Ron
Man that net look great. Well worth the question of what size of hose do you ware. Out of the hundreds of picture I have, I have never seen the net in any of them, but last night I found a great picture of it. It is really good picture, so let me know if you don't have this one and I e-mail it to you full rezz.. And the AC panel.
03-19-2009, 03:04 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Hello Terry.
Sorry for the late reply, Much job, no time for building...
I agree this is propably the Pilot Bellanca. An old kit, which I often see people are looking for. Quite famous construction from Pilot.
I thought it could be one of the Weiershauser kits, but checking your pictures and the WS confirmed it is a Pilot. I did buy myself a Bellanca XL from Weiershauser, but haven`t opened the box yet [
] Their "small" Bellanca is some few inches bigger than your, and I think they have more crossbracing. Take a look: http://www.emhw.de/bellaxs.htm
My Bellanca was part of a barter. It was flown some few flights using a SuperTigre 3000 (30ccm fuel) and I felt it needed this much power (for acro). I decided to strip down the fuselage because the former owner had done a lot of bad work... Still working on it, but it is stowed away for now. Have to prepare some sailplanes for the oncoming summer! I did buy a new cowling from http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/default.htm and also decided to redo everything. So I have to strip the wings and hope to end up with a nice bird next summer. (But not close to the level Ron is aiming for!) I have bought the engine for it, a MVVS 35ccm gasser with tuned pipe. The pipe will be built into the fuse, so I have to rice the interior floor just making half an interiour.
I plan to use this plane for IMAC Basic and as a TUG. I add a tow-coupling on all my bigger planes because aero-towing is an important activity at our airfield
I still haven`t decided if it should be covered using Solartex, Glosstex or Koverall. Time will tell.
Best regards
Jarle
Sorry for the late reply, Much job, no time for building...
I agree this is propably the Pilot Bellanca. An old kit, which I often see people are looking for. Quite famous construction from Pilot.
I thought it could be one of the Weiershauser kits, but checking your pictures and the WS confirmed it is a Pilot. I did buy myself a Bellanca XL from Weiershauser, but haven`t opened the box yet [
] Their "small" Bellanca is some few inches bigger than your, and I think they have more crossbracing. Take a look: http://www.emhw.de/bellaxs.htmMy Bellanca was part of a barter. It was flown some few flights using a SuperTigre 3000 (30ccm fuel) and I felt it needed this much power (for acro). I decided to strip down the fuselage because the former owner had done a lot of bad work... Still working on it, but it is stowed away for now. Have to prepare some sailplanes for the oncoming summer! I did buy a new cowling from http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/default.htm and also decided to redo everything. So I have to strip the wings and hope to end up with a nice bird next summer. (But not close to the level Ron is aiming for!) I have bought the engine for it, a MVVS 35ccm gasser with tuned pipe. The pipe will be built into the fuse, so I have to rice the interior floor just making half an interiour.
I plan to use this plane for IMAC Basic and as a TUG. I add a tow-coupling on all my bigger planes because aero-towing is an important activity at our airfield
I still haven`t decided if it should be covered using Solartex, Glosstex or Koverall. Time will tell.
Best regards
Jarle
04-10-2009, 01:07 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Pilot and Seats completed.
Other than the pesky wing root panel details, I think I finally have the interior to the point I can move on to other areas.
I bought the pilot figure from Ren Di Leo at Premier Pilots (www.premierpilots.net ) and am blown away by the level of detail. Ren is a prince of a guy and was very willing to work with me and answer all my questions. I also got an extra seat harness (these are functional ! ) and a second headset for the back seat (stored on the upper right side panel). If you want a quality ¼ scale full pilot you need look no further.
I stripped him naked and screwed his ass to the seat bottom, and his shoulder blades to the seat back. See pictures. Note that the red tubes sticking out of the seat back are large (milk shake) straws glued in place and cut flush with seat. They are necessary to keep form loosing the screws inside the seat back. Put his clothes back on and carefully punch holes in short and pants for screws to line up with holes in body.
A tip for attaching the pilot’s hat and headset. I used 1/8” strips of carpet tape to hold the hat on. The headset will not reach from ear-to-ear over the hat, so I cut it into at the center of the band; trimmed the ends down so that a piece of 5/16” heat shrink tubing was a cozy fit over band center pad, and adjusted the gap as necessary. Do not heat shrink the tubing. Ren’s tip for attaching the headset was to glue it to the ears with Zap a-Dap-a Goo. I did one ear piece at a time and held it in place with thin strips of masking tape until glue set. Don’t forget to put the sun glasses on before the hat and headset if you want to use them.
The seats were covered with pale gray fabric panels with medium gray vinyl sides and back. I couldn’t find the color of vinyl I wanted at any fabric store so I bought a cheap ladies purse and cut it up for the material. I used very thin industrial double sided clear tape attach the seat cover pieces to the seats.
Other than the pesky wing root panel details, I think I finally have the interior to the point I can move on to other areas.
I bought the pilot figure from Ren Di Leo at Premier Pilots (www.premierpilots.net ) and am blown away by the level of detail. Ren is a prince of a guy and was very willing to work with me and answer all my questions. I also got an extra seat harness (these are functional ! ) and a second headset for the back seat (stored on the upper right side panel). If you want a quality ¼ scale full pilot you need look no further.
I stripped him naked and screwed his ass to the seat bottom, and his shoulder blades to the seat back. See pictures. Note that the red tubes sticking out of the seat back are large (milk shake) straws glued in place and cut flush with seat. They are necessary to keep form loosing the screws inside the seat back. Put his clothes back on and carefully punch holes in short and pants for screws to line up with holes in body.
A tip for attaching the pilot’s hat and headset. I used 1/8” strips of carpet tape to hold the hat on. The headset will not reach from ear-to-ear over the hat, so I cut it into at the center of the band; trimmed the ends down so that a piece of 5/16” heat shrink tubing was a cozy fit over band center pad, and adjusted the gap as necessary. Do not heat shrink the tubing. Ren’s tip for attaching the headset was to glue it to the ears with Zap a-Dap-a Goo. I did one ear piece at a time and held it in place with thin strips of masking tape until glue set. Don’t forget to put the sun glasses on before the hat and headset if you want to use them.
The seats were covered with pale gray fabric panels with medium gray vinyl sides and back. I couldn’t find the color of vinyl I wanted at any fabric store so I bought a cheap ladies purse and cut it up for the material. I used very thin industrial double sided clear tape attach the seat cover pieces to the seats.
04-13-2009, 09:37 AM
#34
RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Ron, please keep us up to date. You are building a winner.
I bought a Dynaflite Decathlon interior kit to fit into the Pilot.
With minor arrangements I hope this will be good.
Thanks.
I bought a Dynaflite Decathlon interior kit to fit into the Pilot.
With minor arrangements I hope this will be good.
Thanks.
04-13-2009, 11:52 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Hi Szig,
Thanks again for your kind words.
Be sure to let us know how the interior kit fits in the Pilot kit. I knew about it but was concerned that it would not work.
Regards
Thanks again for your kind words.
Be sure to let us know how the interior kit fits in the Pilot kit. I knew about it but was concerned that it would not work.
Regards
04-14-2009, 09:29 AM
#36
RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Ron
Thanks for the warning.
I put the parts over the plans and the instrument panel needs to be redone. The seats seem to fit better.
A minor work considering that I'm building from plans.
Regards
Thanks for the warning.
I put the parts over the plans and the instrument panel needs to be redone. The seats seem to fit better.
A minor work considering that I'm building from plans.
Regards
04-21-2009, 04:26 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
The pilot look super Ron
The grin on his face said it all. What a great plane to be seen in.
I have been helping a friend get a few planes into Real Flight and he wanted to place a pilots in his aircraft. He modeled a simple one with a round head. I told him It looked to much like a bowling ball. I sent him a link to this thread to show him what a real pilot should look like. He cam back with this. Just a ruff draft of your pilot head
Sizg
Is that the Dynaflite interior kit, and is that all that cam in it. The seats looks close to the One and only seat I have. Mine is a bit thinker in the seat area. But they look good other wise.
The grin on his face said it all. What a great plane to be seen in.
I have been helping a friend get a few planes into Real Flight and he wanted to place a pilots in his aircraft. He modeled a simple one with a round head. I told him It looked to much like a bowling ball. I sent him a link to this thread to show him what a real pilot should look like. He cam back with this. Just a ruff draft of your pilot head
Sizg
Is that the Dynaflite interior kit, and is that all that cam in it. The seats looks close to the One and only seat I have. Mine is a bit thinker in the seat area. But they look good other wise.
02-16-2010, 09:08 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
I have finally completed the plane. Rolled out of "custom shop" on Feb 13, 2010. Weighs 17# 9 oz. Fuselage and fin are covered with Sig Coverall and painted with Lustercoat. Wings, and tail feathers are Monokote on Monokote. Graphics came from same sign shop that supplies trim to American Champion. Balanced without adding any dead weight. I have spent over two years on this project and am willing to offer suggestions to anyone building this kit. Now have to decide what to build next - the Pilot Tiger Moth perhaps?
02-16-2010, 09:16 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
It is a 1/4 scale Pilot Super Decathalon Kit. I am building one from a kit that is 25 years old. Do a search on this forum (Ron Lynch) is building one and is an expert on this airplane. He is building one that is true scale and it is a work of art. You have a real sought after kit that is a real gem.
ORIGINAL: Junkboy999
Ok I spent the last two days looking through all the thread that showed up in using search for Super Decathlon and Citabria and nothing I see looks like this RC kit.
I picked this Super Decathlon ( tag has ¼ scale Citabria on it ) up at our local auction. It need some word but I think it will be fly able. I'm wondering if one can identify the maker of the Kit. The Bulkheads in the fuselage are machine cut and not laser or hand cut. They are notch to match the plywood stringers that run down the fuselage length, two on top and two on the bottom. There is one plywood stringer that runs down the side and forms the back window ledge. None of the parts are factory marked. All marking I see are in pencil so probably placed there my the person building the kit.
The plastic parts look vacuformed The Cowl is a 3 piece, wheels pants are 2 piece, instrument panel sun visor and wings tips all one piece The Wing tips have a nice touch and have the navigation lights molded in to them. There was even a seat, but that might of came from a different kit.
The RC problems are; a 5 Deg twist in the Fuselage; 11 degree of dihedral in the wings; no real secure to mount the wings; no wing struts; missing ailerons and window plastic.
I Hope some one can ID this kit. Id like to ask some advice about the twisted fuselage and making a better wing saddle. So I don' take up another thread I'll all so use this thread as the rebuild thread. Unless you guys think other wise.
Thanks
Terry
Junkboy999
Ok I spent the last two days looking through all the thread that showed up in using search for Super Decathlon and Citabria and nothing I see looks like this RC kit.
I picked this Super Decathlon ( tag has ¼ scale Citabria on it ) up at our local auction. It need some word but I think it will be fly able. I'm wondering if one can identify the maker of the Kit. The Bulkheads in the fuselage are machine cut and not laser or hand cut. They are notch to match the plywood stringers that run down the fuselage length, two on top and two on the bottom. There is one plywood stringer that runs down the side and forms the back window ledge. None of the parts are factory marked. All marking I see are in pencil so probably placed there my the person building the kit.
The plastic parts look vacuformed The Cowl is a 3 piece, wheels pants are 2 piece, instrument panel sun visor and wings tips all one piece The Wing tips have a nice touch and have the navigation lights molded in to them. There was even a seat, but that might of came from a different kit.
The RC problems are; a 5 Deg twist in the Fuselage; 11 degree of dihedral in the wings; no real secure to mount the wings; no wing struts; missing ailerons and window plastic.
I Hope some one can ID this kit. Id like to ask some advice about the twisted fuselage and making a better wing saddle. So I don' take up another thread I'll all so use this thread as the rebuild thread. Unless you guys think other wise.
Thanks
Terry
Junkboy999
02-17-2010, 08:12 PM
#40
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Ron
Man that is Unreal..... Or should I say Too real..
If I ever get some time off this summer I going have to come down there and see that for my self. Will we be seeing this on any magazines covers this year. Not only the cover but the centerfold too. I love the fake exhaust pipe on the cowling and the oil access panel. I spliced these two picture together just for a comparison.
Hardy1000
Thanks Handy1000
That is Ron's plane in the post just above #38. We have been writing back and forth a bit about the model. How far in the construction are your kit are you? Ron and I have been looking for an unbuilt kit so we can make some patterns for some spare replacements parts or a short kit. I have most of the measurements for the major Ribs in the middle of the plane but need to get a better look at the ones in the tail area. I would like to get a better look at the big plywood side pieces up by the fireball. I'm teaching my self some major CAD program and slowly putting in all the parts in there. One day I might be about to cut some parts for this kit.
The second picture is RIB F08 for the Pilot Decathlon. It is modeled in Catia.
Man that is Unreal..... Or should I say Too real..
If I ever get some time off this summer I going have to come down there and see that for my self. Will we be seeing this on any magazines covers this year. Not only the cover but the centerfold too. I love the fake exhaust pipe on the cowling and the oil access panel. I spliced these two picture together just for a comparison.
Hardy1000
Thanks Handy1000
That is Ron's plane in the post just above #38. We have been writing back and forth a bit about the model. How far in the construction are your kit are you? Ron and I have been looking for an unbuilt kit so we can make some patterns for some spare replacements parts or a short kit. I have most of the measurements for the major Ribs in the middle of the plane but need to get a better look at the ones in the tail area. I would like to get a better look at the big plywood side pieces up by the fireball. I'm teaching my self some major CAD program and slowly putting in all the parts in there. One day I might be about to cut some parts for this kit.
The second picture is RIB F08 for the Pilot Decathlon. It is modeled in Catia.
02-19-2010, 08:28 AM
#41
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
I have all but the right wing framed. I did after reading your post trace the wing ribs and wish I would have traced all parts.
ORIGINAL: Junkboy999
Ron
Man that is Unreal..... Or should I say Too real..
If I ever get some time off this summer I going have to come down there and see that for my self. Will we be seeing this on any magazines covers this year. Not only the cover but the centerfold too. I love the fake exhaust pipe on the cowling and the oil access panel. I spliced these two picture together just for a comparison.
Hardy1000
Thanks Handy1000
That is Ron's plane in the post just above #38. We have been writing back and forth a bit about the model. How far in the construction are your kit are you? Ron and I have been looking for an unbuilt kit so we can make some patterns for some spare replacements parts or a short kit. I have most of the measurements for the major Ribs in the middle of the plane but need to get a better look at the ones in the tail area. I would like to get a better look at the big plywood side pieces up by the fireball. I'm teaching my self some major CAD program and slowly putting in all the parts in there. One day I might be about to cut some parts for this kit.
The second picture is RIB F08 for the Pilot Decathlon. It is modeled in Catia.
Ron
Man that is Unreal..... Or should I say Too real..
If I ever get some time off this summer I going have to come down there and see that for my self. Will we be seeing this on any magazines covers this year. Not only the cover but the centerfold too. I love the fake exhaust pipe on the cowling and the oil access panel. I spliced these two picture together just for a comparison.
Hardy1000
Thanks Handy1000
That is Ron's plane in the post just above #38. We have been writing back and forth a bit about the model. How far in the construction are your kit are you? Ron and I have been looking for an unbuilt kit so we can make some patterns for some spare replacements parts or a short kit. I have most of the measurements for the major Ribs in the middle of the plane but need to get a better look at the ones in the tail area. I would like to get a better look at the big plywood side pieces up by the fireball. I'm teaching my self some major CAD program and slowly putting in all the parts in there. One day I might be about to cut some parts for this kit.
The second picture is RIB F08 for the Pilot Decathlon. It is modeled in Catia.
02-22-2010, 02:02 PM
#42
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
That is some fantastic work. One of the nicest models I've ever seen!
Jay
Jay
ORIGINAL: lynchr
I have finally completed the plane. Rolled out of ''custom shop'' on Feb 13, 2010. Weighs 17# 9 oz. Fuselage and fin are covered with Sig Coverall and painted with Lustercoat. Wings, and tail feathers are Monokote on Monokote. Graphics came from same sign shop that supplies trim to American Champion. Balanced without adding any dead weight. I have spent over two years on this project and am willing to offer suggestions to anyone building this kit. Now have to decide what to build next - the Pilot Tiger Moth perhaps?
I have finally completed the plane. Rolled out of ''custom shop'' on Feb 13, 2010. Weighs 17# 9 oz. Fuselage and fin are covered with Sig Coverall and painted with Lustercoat. Wings, and tail feathers are Monokote on Monokote. Graphics came from same sign shop that supplies trim to American Champion. Balanced without adding any dead weight. I have spent over two years on this project and am willing to offer suggestions to anyone building this kit. Now have to decide what to build next - the Pilot Tiger Moth perhaps?
02-23-2010, 10:21 AM
#43
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Thank you very much for the kind words Jay.
[quote]ORIGINAL: 7ECflyer
That is some fantastic work. One of the nicest models I've ever seen!
Jay
[quote]ORIGINAL: 7ECflyer
That is some fantastic work. One of the nicest models I've ever seen!
Jay
03-26-2010, 07:44 AM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Hi Ron,
I just go home from traveling and did get the disk that you sent me. I have not had time to open it because since returning I have had no time for my toys.I will hopefullygettostart back on my Decathalon it 2-3 weeks.
Thank you for the disk and I look forward to seeing it...Im sure it is the best information on a Pilot kit or any kit for that matter.
I will be in touch.
Again, thak you Ron I really appriciate what you accomplished and sharing it.
Del
I just go home from traveling and did get the disk that you sent me. I have not had time to open it because since returning I have had no time for my toys.I will hopefullygettostart back on my Decathalon it 2-3 weeks.
Thank you for the disk and I look forward to seeing it...Im sure it is the best information on a Pilot kit or any kit for that matter.
I will be in touch.
Again, thak you Ron I really appriciate what you accomplished and sharing it.
Del
03-26-2010, 08:33 AM
#45
RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
Ron,
As I said a year ago, you are building a winner and you did it.
Congrats.
Here, no progress the last time, too busy on other tasks.
But after seeing your work, really is a motivation to continue.
Greetings
As I said a year ago, you are building a winner and you did it.
Congrats.
Here, no progress the last time, too busy on other tasks.
But after seeing your work, really is a motivation to continue.
Greetings
05-23-2010, 07:34 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
i have one of these pilot decathlons for sale if anyone is interested.
check it out here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=637287
check it out here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=637287
06-09-2010, 08:13 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
There is no pattern on the planes at all. I need a windshield too. I will be working on a plug for a Vacforme one hopefully this year. I'm still getting part together for a shop Vacuum former machine.
I'll post if I can find a place for a new windshield or when I make one for me I can easily make two or three.
I'll post if I can find a place for a new windshield or when I make one for me I can easily make two or three.
06-16-2010, 01:10 PM
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RE: ID Kit ¼ Super Decathlon, need advice + rebuild start
FYI - I am sending Roylab a pattern of the windshield. I kept the plastic sheet after removing the diecut windshield.