Alex7403

I'm looking for some simple chisel to shape the turtle deck of US60.

i think i've seen one that uses single sided blades, cant find it now.

im looking at this one is it any good? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LC7384&P=1

any other online suggestions?

Thanks
Alex

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

That'll work

And it's called a "Razor Plane"

Alex7403

thanks, i'll do that

Mode One

If your looking for other carving tools, try Micromark.com

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

I do not think the Master Airscrew razor plane uses single edge blades. Mine requires a blade that is made by them. It is a great tool and will do what you need it for and worth the money. Good Luck, Dave

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

The razor plane is the way to go. Once you get the shape close. I like to make a sanding belt to finish the round sections. I take about 4' of duct tape. Cut some 2" wide strips of 150 grit sandpaper. Then stick the paper to the center 3' of the duct tape. Then fold over the 6" left on each end to make a handle. When you're done you should have a 3'6" long belt with sandpaper on one side. Now you can hold the fuse between your legs and work the belt back and forth over the fuse, kind of like your polishing a shoe. This will make it perfectly round and smooth.

david

Alex7403

yes thats what i was thinking of doing but there is a big portion of balsa to remove first and thats what i wanted the chisel for.

thanks
Alex

Mode One

I have used the very long Exacto blade to carve with (don't know the number of this one). You need to be careful with this knife and you also need to know which way the grain is running when you do thisl You need to carve so the grain doesn't take the blade deeper and deeper. Great Planes has a power plain that is my new best friend for this type of work; although, I still carve when I have a lot of wood to remove. A wood rasp is another method. Many ways to skin a cat and you'll likely come up with a method different then any of those mentioned here.

sebo

I use a 12 inch "bast*rd" file to do this kind of work (that is the real name for it). I even use it on leading edges and trailing edges. Just don't push hard and it works smooth and fast.
When you get it close to what you want, start using sandpaper.
Been doing it that way for years.
If you should cut too deep, fill with spackling compound, then sand.
Ron

Campgems

Another round surface sanding technique I picked up when I was cutting opals is to use a hard back canvas belt of the approiate grit and just cup it on your hand. The piece being sanded will cause the belt to deflect into a curved surface. It gives you a very uniform smooth surface.

Thinking along this line, I decided it would be a good idea to cut some PVC pipe in half and use carpet tape to line the inside with the sand paper of choice. I made up several pieces. 1/2 through 2 1/2" pipe. My first use was the LE of a 4*60. I was so pleased with the results, the LE was uniform in curve and fair the entire length, then I noticed that I had really under cut the ribs with the edge of my sanding tubes. The idea was good, the aplicaton sucked. I found that half pipes didn't cut it becasue of the under cutting on the edges. However a set of 1/4 pipes is better. It will still under cut if you let it, but you see what is happining sooner.

By the way, a good source of long sand paper is sanding belts from the hardware store. I keep some on long pieces of wood, 80 through as fine as I can find. Great for cutting aileron V angles. and the long length prevents the hills and valleys.

One more sanding point, I keep a bunch of 280 through 600 grit popsicle sticks. I make them by spraying the back of a sheet of wet-or-dry and then packing the back of the sheet as full as I can with "Craft Sticks". Then take an Xacto knife and cut the sticks loose from the back of the paper. The 280 and 320 grit eats CA glue, but is fine enough that it doesn't do much to the balsa. Light pressure and it cuts the CA very well.

Don

dhal22

my Stanley mini block plane works great. i bought it at lowe's.

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

One thing for sure a razor sharp edge is the key. You don't want to take off to much stock at once. Depth and control is the key, Mode one is right about the grain. but you can avoid that by taking off less stock and once again a sharp edge. What happens when a tool starts to follow grain is the blade stops cutting and starts splitting ahead of the cut. This is mostly the cause of depth or a dull blade