wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Undamaged wheel pants, fuel tank and the pants I screwed up maybe you can use them for something.

shd3920

Are you going to send me back the nosegear wheel pants? I can finish for you if you want.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

yes I sent them also I can't do it!

shd3920

Be glad to do it. But you will need to furnish the U-shaped gear straps for 5/32 gear http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD841&P=7

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

My Tower order from the 3rd shipped today should get it on the 9^th or the 10^th need the spinner to continue building the cowl. orderd the U-shaped gear straps on the 4th should get them soon.
thank you for everything!
Bill

shd3920

My motor has been shipped and is now in CHELMSFORD, MA, according to UPS tracking.

Any new photos of your build wzak, how far are you now?

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

can't do anything until my order arrives then I can start the cowl.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Glued balsa tabs on cowl ring, made a 3/8” thick block with a ¼” hole to fit on engine shaft so I can tighten the prop nut on the spinner back plate.

shd3920

That looks like an awful lot of glue on the shims and cowl ring. Are those shims going to be easy to remove when the time comes?

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

The shims are balsa and the ring is ply should be easy to sand off if there is any mark’s on the ring I will glue that side to the cowl. going to use a hot glue gun for the spinner back plate easy to remove from plastic.

shd3920

Decided to go ahead and epoxy the rudder hinge point with 30-minute epoxy. I find it easier to cover with the hinges already on. And with these hinges having removable cotter pics shouldn't be a problem covering.

Ply backplate epoxied in place on wheel pants.

shd3920

A situation has arisen. I DO NOT LIKE THE HINGES WITH COTTER PINS [:'(][:'(][:'(]

After epoxying the hinge halves into the rudder and fin I could not for the life of me get the cotter pin to slide in without severe troubles. So IN THE TRASH THEY GO [:@][:@][:@]

I had to cut chunks out of the rudder and fin to remove the hinge halves and fill the missing chunks with new balsa scrap. Now I need to find a filler that will hide all the seams, HELP me find something that will hide the seams.

I am highly considering using the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001058804&I=LXK840&P=K]Hayes[/link] nylon hinges that have a crease in the center instead of a pin. Anyone ever use them with good results?

Here are the chunks out of the rudder I had to fill in . . .

glydrjocky

Probably not a good time to mention this but an old guy once told me that he used a heat gun to soften cured epoxy in order to remove things that he'd wanted to repair or epoxied by mistake. I've been using the trick exclusively for a couple years now. I removed the 25 year old servo rails from my Bridi Trainer using this method and a number of other pieces as well. Even managed to disassemble the fin and rudder the same way. My guess is it would have released your hinges without any damage.

Looks like your build is coming right along though. Keep up the good work.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

I want to build the 60 size. I have an osmax 61 sf laying around...Your sporster looks great so far. Keep up the good work. Ernie.....

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

OH CRAP! What happened? Did you put grease on the hinge pins before you glued them or are they out of alignment? I have these coming soon

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD941 are they the same hinge you have trouble with. Maybe you can buy some ¼” balsa and cut out a new piece, sorry for your mishap.



I use HobbyLite balsa colored filler on my plane and it makes repairs invisible and very easy to sand, I can send you some.

TomCrump

I'm going to maiden my SS 60 today. OS 91 Surpass for power.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Nice looking plane I have not decided on my color scheme, I have time to think about that. Is that the stock landing gear looks a lot sturdier than the wire gear that came with the 40. I see you don’t have wheel pants did the plane come with them? Please let me know how well it fly’s looks like you did a great job building it.

TomCrump

Thanks

The landing gear is aftermarket, from Great Planes. I mounted it to the fusel;age, as I don't like the wing mounted gear.

The nose has been extended, to accept the 91. It still came out tail heavey, requiring a heavy hub for balance.

I didn't use the wheel pants. I didn't think that they'd be strong enough.

This is my 3rd Sportster. The other 2 were the 40 size. I'm sure that you guys will enjoy your !!!

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

If you read my last few posts you will know wheel pants are not on my favorites list. Did not expect this plane to be tail heavy because the engine is so forward on the engine mount. Good luck today, can you post some photos of the SS-40’s

TomCrump

My experience with Great Planes kits is that they build tail heavey.

My first 40 size took nose weight. On the second, I extended the nose, and put a 70 Surpass up front. The balance was perfect.

Sorry, I don't have pics of my earlier Sportsters.

shd3920

Yes wzak, I put vaseline on before epoxying and they were aligned proper. I just couldn't get in there between the hinge halves to slide the pin in, they didn't slide smoothly. And do not worry, those hinges you ordered are not the same, they are very good hinges. The ones I tried had the removable cotter pins http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD944&P=ML

No need to go through all that trouble just to ship out some filler, I will be able to try that some day, I heard it was real good stuff.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

on my way out I put some filler in the box if it dry's out add a few drops of water to it should be ok I put it in a air tight bottle.

shd3920

Thank you wzak, will be looking for the package. About how long you think it will take?

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Just got back home mailed your package about 10:am priority mail should get it in a few days.

Hyperfly

My Feedback: (1)

The top of the fuselage from the canopy back to the tail (sometimes referred to as the turtledeck) uses a balsa stringer. Replace it with an equivalent size of spruce. You will find this does not bend or break when you are putting on the monokote. Also, glue in extra balsa to support the landing gear block in the wing. You can use 3/8" or 1/2" triangle or square stock and 15 minute epoxy. This little extra work will save you a lot of time andaggravationif you have a rough landing. The wing can take it. If you are making it a tail-dragger, bend the main gear landing wires to get about 1/2" forward location. This will help prevent nose-overs on a grass field. Also, add 1/2" to the main gear tires to help it roll in the grass. Forget the wheel pants unless you fly from pavement.

I have built and flown at least 12 of these planes over the last 20 years. No, I did not crash them. I built them for other people. It is a great flyer. Your .46 should be plenty of power. Build light by not using more epoxy glue than you need. Coverite makes a brush-on adhesive you put on the sanded wood frame. It comes in half-pint cans which is more than you will need for one plane. Brush it on. Do it in a well ventilated area. Let it dry. It helps adhere the monokote or coverite film to the balsa. You can use a lower heat setting on your iron. It also strengthens the balsa wood. It does not add weight.

It's an easy kit to build. Keep the wing pinned down on the plans during construction so it turns out straight. Use the plan's CG for the first flights. Move it back to make it more aerobatic later. This plane is truly a winner R/C classic design.