Nintendomaniac_00

rcten
I checked my Robart struts on the digital scale and got 10-3/4 oz for the pair with axles. The wire gear supplied with the kit weighs in at 3-1/8 oz. Depending on what extra wire is used to stiffen up the stock gear and how elaborate of gear leg fairings used the two systems may come out pretty close in weight. The Robo struts are pretty cool. Have you given any thought to how to dress them up to look more like the scale gear? Thanks, NM

rcten

Nintendo, Yes your right, the robart gear is around 10 - 11 oz. but if you add in the 1/4" mounting plates and nuts/bolts etc it comes upto 15 oz, not sure where I got 20 oz's from. I might have included the wheels, but these will be there on either gear used. As far the fairings go I think about them, but havn't decided what material to use, balsa, sheet metal , fiber glass over the balsa?I have the plastic top fairings and plan to make molds using water putty and make fiber glass parts, I've done this before using the plastic cowls and wheel pants included with kits.

Nintendomaniac_00

Here is what I've got going right now. With the die cutting less than perfect in the Sterling kit you have to do a little extra. I am matching up each former and adjusting the crutch slots and mating surfaces so they are correct before installation. In the last shot you can see F8 glued in place. To get a tight fit I often cut a shim from 1/32 or 1/16 sheet to fill in the gaps. It takes a little extra time but building is theraputic so its all good right?

rcten

Nintendo, That's exactly what my Sterling parts looked like, that's why I chose to go with Lazer Works lazer cut kit, the parts are accurately cut and the quality of the wood is excellent. Not to say the original Sterling kit can't be built, it will take alot of additional rework, but still produce's a very scale model. The main reason to use and promote Lazer Works short kit is it produces a classic kit that will and has disappeared and here's a manufacturer responding to modelers request to provide an exact replica and this is what he has done, in what I feel in a very quick time. The original kits are few and far between and all but gone. Here we have a new source and we need to support his effort to produce models that we all enjoy! So I'll get off my soapbox and just enjoy a classic Lazer cut kit.

Nintendomaniac_00

rcten
Works for me. Any additional thoughts on the engine; size, location, mounting?

reyn3545

What's the wingspan of the Sterling/Laser kit? I'm just about ready to take the plunge on a Stearman, and looking at the Ziroli 88 inch right now.

Nintendomaniac_00

reyn3545
The Sterling kit box I have says 64-1/2 inch wingspan.

Nintendomaniac_00

Here are a couple of pics of progress so far. It took some time to get everything to fit just right. Had to open up notches and sand parts a bit. After 10 tries or so I got it all to fit. Working on the side stringers now. Please note this is the original Stearling kit and I am building alongside of rcten for comparison.

AutoMike

WOW! Great thread! I've got the Stearman on the shelf and had thought of copying it to build but a laser reproduction is ideal. I just picked up the Sterling 58" Fokker D-7 bipe this week and it too is one of those "must builds" but I might have to see if it could also be turned into a laser cut kit.

Nintendomaniac_00

Welcome aboard automike! The laser version is the way to go if you can swing it. We are covering old school on this thread too if you go with the original kit....

rcten
I am a little confused on the nose stringers from E5 - E1. The plans don't clearly show which are short vs. long. Also, I mixed up some of the die cut parts...... Can you help me figure this one out? Thanks, NM

rcten

Nintendo, The precut stringers start at the top E1-E5, there are 2 E5's per side. E2-E4 are cut short, not sure why unless the original intent was to leave the area open between F2 & F3 so the cabanes can be installed and then top stringers installed although the instructions don't suggest this. Stringers E6-E9 are not installed until the landing gear is in place. Which diecut parts are you referring too? Included some pic's of my fuse. halve.
I also included a pic of the original nose stringers, the front of E1,2,3,& 4 is on the right, hope this helps!
I take it that your stringers aren't all numbered? Several of mine from the original kit weren't marked so I wrote the numbers on those.

rcten

Welcome AutoMike, My Brothers got me started in modeling back in the late 40's I got them back into radio control modeling in the 70's , here's a picture of them in 1986 with the sterling D7 which my brother on the left built!

Nintendomaniac_00

Thanks rcten - that is just what I needed to clear up the mystery.
Back to the shop!

rcten

Here's some shots of fuselage so far and with the Robart gear installed.

Brickhead

rcten and nintendomaniac

Thank You so much for doing this build thread. My Sterling Stearman has also been sitting in the box for I do not know how many years. You guys are good inspiration.

Again Thank You

rcten

The first half of the fuselage is relatively easy, the other side is the challenge. Some more views of progess.

Nintendomaniac_00

Nice work rcten. Here are some shots of my progress so far. I am trying to show the stringer alignment and shimming work so hopefully the pics are clear enough. What I am trying to acheive is smooth curves and equal spacing of the stringers so they look nice under the covering. You have to wait on the tail until side 2 is done in order to pull both sides to the middle w/o warps per the instructions. rcten, did you use the 1/4" plywood design from the robart strut drawing on the gear leg installation? That is my next step. I think I may have to remove a couple of nose stringers..... got a little ahead of myself.

Nintendomaniac_00

rcten
I noticed the servo beams go from F1 back through the wing saddle area. There are some blind nuts in your plane on that rail... I'm not sure of their purpose. Can that beam be reduced in length or eliminated? I am using hardwood motor rails so will be tying the nose together pretty good with those and the side keels are pretty stout too. Not to mention the planking! What do you think?

One tip for others building this plane (especially from the original kit as I am) is to match and trim each pair of formers prior to assembly to make sure they fit together tightly on the side keels. This will really help make the side 2 construction go easier.

This plane is starting to get fun!

rcten

Nintendo, those blind nuts on 1/4 sq. rails are there to attach the servo mounting plate. Yes they run all the way to firewall and provide stiffness.

Nintendomaniac_00

Here is an update on progress so far. I have the new motor mount beams cut. I needed longer than stock beams to accomodate the Saito 100. I also cut out the Robart strut mounts per the plans supplied with the struts and some hints in the pics from rcten. I am going to mark out the back side of the 3/4" firewall next so I can cut the square holes, then I'll start gluing the motor mount beams in place through F1 and F2. The Robart strut center mount plate will brace the motor mount beams aft of F2 and tie it all together.

Nintendomaniac_00

I have installed the gear mounting plate per the Robart drawing supplied with the struts and some hints from rcten's photos (thanks). One slight difference is the addition of the blind nut plates on the front side of F2. The rear strut mounts attach to F3. I only had to remove one section of stringer between F2 and F3 to provide enough clearance for the strut. Now back to the right side former installation. Happy Holidays!

Nintendomaniac_00

Everybody must be on vacation.....
Any thoughts or help on how to do the elevator joiner and control horn would be appreciated. The one supplied with the kit is too soft, which will result in excess play. Thanks!

rcten

No, not vacation, just chillin! Liked your idea using blind nuts for gear, will change mine. Now about elevator joiner my original kit was short the half wire as is referred to, so I can't comment on it's stiffness, I'm not sure how soft the wire is, I like the idea and the control horn and thought about how to recreate one out of music wire by grinding at least half of required lenght down to fit control horn. OR, dual push rods to each elevator half, OR?
The elevator on lazer kit is one piece via the leading edges, which render it stiff enough for the size model and load it shough experience, thus allowing single connection via push rod. However I really like the idea of internal control horn set up. So still looking at this! Hope this helps?

Have an idea, use a piece of 1/4x1/16 brass strip,cut to the 2 1/8" length,(not sure if all that length is needed) drill it on one end for 1/8 music wire, now this could be silver soldered and should provide a stiffer connection then the original half wire. Not sure why all the clevis holes in the nylon horn, once things are all together you can't get to this connection anyway and all throw adjustments would have to happen servo end via mechanical and electronic.

nightbeacons

Yes, the Army Stearman used "Chrome Yellow" for the wings. The darker blue (used for the red/white/blue stars on the wings)is Insignia Blue.

I _think_ the blue on the fueslage is called "Medium Blue" but have not been able to confirm this.

Nintendomaniac_00

Here is an update with pics on the original kit construction. I have finished the stringers on side two. The next step is to pull the tail end of the stringers together onto the tail post. In one view you can see me "softening" them up with a little glass cleaner. It's starting to look like something..... Hope yours is going as well. Regards, NM