kingdom802

My Feedback: (5)

I just purchased this Sterling Stearman bipe, It was done up in the Tuskegee Airman basic trainer colors, has anyone gone electric on theirs? and what glow engines do you plan to run in these?
Thanks
L

Nintendomaniac_00

That is a real nice looking biplane L. I have a Saito 100 for my Stearman. I've seen them fly on a mild 90 fourstroke without issue. Regards, NM

Nintendomaniac_00

All
Here are some pics of progress on the top wing. I ended up remanufacturing the right wing trailing edge piece (original was too warped) from some stock I picked up at the hobby shop. I did numerous trial fits of the outer panels on the center section, adjusting the spar openings in the wing ribs gradually, until I got a snug fit. I then glued the W15 ribs to the center section once I was sure the location was correct and I had the 7/8" spacing under the wingtip. You can see the top wing placed on the fuse for inspiration - its starting to look like a biplane! Next is the leading edge sheeting, then on to the bottom wing. Are you planning to put servos in each wing or a center mount? Regards, NM

Nintendomaniac_00

Couldn't fit them all in the one upload. Here are a couple of more pics...

rcflysrc

My Feedback: (3)

Trying to Get Advice,
Heard VMSGUY is the one to ask!
I have a Sterling PT17 64.5 inch Biplane it was flying great, then one flight it decided to keep pitching up, I had to give down elevator to get it down, I held down all the way down, one of the most tence landings I have had but its in one piece! the CG did not seem to change,nothing seems loose inside. With the plane level wing incidence is top -1.5 degrees, the bottom is-2 degrees. What am I missig? I love this plane, I have got to fix it. Any help greatly apprieciated.
Thaks
Bob

vmsguy

Nice to hear you managed to save your plane.

I am definitely NOT an PT-17 expert by any means. I'm just a guy that managed to buy an un-built kit. And get it to Eddie so he can work his magic. I still haven't got my original kit back. But I trust Eddie. Last message I got was he was struggling with making the radial engine mold. But I know a cowl is available, and if one wanted to build it without radial engine, one could compete it.

Regarding you pitch up... Maybe the problem isn't with the fuselage, but the wings.. Did anything come loose in the wings that might cause the top wing to change pitch? If mounting blocks broke loose, and the front of the top wing pitched up, you'd get the pitch up problem. I'd check all the wing mounts, cabane mounts on both wings, etc.... Just a thought.

Good luck.

Oh... Since you have a flying example.. Could you post some pictures of all the cabane mounts, and specifically the wiring...? It'd be nice to see those. I don't know what they look like.

Nintendomaniac_00

rcflysrc
Have you checked the horizontal stab to make sure it is tight? Also the stock elevator joiner wire - plastic elevator horn assembly is prone to slop and the plastic horn may have shifted inside and cammed off the flat side of the joiner wire. I can post a pic of the joiner if that would help. A good tug should tell you if it is the problem. Regards, NM

rcflysrc

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Guys,
I took the plane apart and ckecked every thing, I installed two new push rods between the servos and rudder [1/4 inch fiberglass],with new Hitec sevos. Also one new srvo in the lower wing for the alerons. Checked rear stab incidence relitive to the 0 degree line of the fuse., 0 degrees. The lower wing is 0 degrees, I reset the top wing to plus 3.0 degrees.I checked the down angle of the engine,it seems to come in at 4 degrees down and 5 degrees to the right. I checked and rebalenced, However Im not exactly sure of the correct balence point. Its nose heavy at 5.0 inches back on the top wing ????. If anyone has any further ideas have at it!
Thanks for all the great ideas so far. Ill post some pictures next week.
Bob

Nintendomaniac_00

All
Here are some shots of progress on the lower wing. On the aileron I glued the tip and root rib in place then put all the rest of the ribs in working from tip to root. That seemed to work pretty well. Rainy season here so its a good time to build - on to the left panel! NM

Nintendomaniac_00

rcflysrc
Here are a couple pictures of the stock elevator joiner wire that comes with the Sterling kit. The joiner wire is a half round shape and the plastic horn has a half round hole. I am planning to replace this assembly as it looks like it could be prone to slop and/or twisting. It is already loose! Sounds like you have tried about everything so this info may not help. One other thing, I checked the balance point on the plans from my kit and the CG is 4-7/8" back from the leading edge of the top wing. Regards, NM

rcflysrc

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Guys,
Here are a few pics of my Stearman. I wish I could replace the landing gear covers with something more durable or realistic. Any suggestions!
Bob

Nintendomaniac_00

Ok, so where are we at with building this biplane already? Good question! I have been pecking away on the bottom wing panels. Here are some photos. I am planning to put a servo in each wing so have installed servo mounts in the bottom wing bays where the plans call for bell cranks. I am a bit unclear about the interplane strut mounting, but have installed the ply panels with the oval cutouts in all 8 places per the plans. I am thinking I will use some aluminum airfoil tubing for the struts - so I will need a bracket of some sort. Any ideas on the best way to do that one? A tee maybe? (Also, I still need to come up with a plan for the elevator joiner and horn) Hope your building is going well. Regards, NM

rcflysrc

My Feedback: (3)

Nintendomaniac,
It sure looks like you have been busy,the 'N" pieces or interplane pieces need to be modified.On the bottom I put hardwood blocks next to the hole for two reasons. One I used the aluminum right angle pieces to hold the struts in,you need good stock to support the screws also the the hooks for the interplane wires need a good solid anchoring. Second,cap the bottom with some lite ply to keep the "N" bars from pushing thru during assembley, perhaps you can see them in my pics.
My elevator uses the one that can with the kit but I can't help but think the pattern boys might have a better solution! With all the new stuff out there you know.
Good Luck
Bob

rcten

NM, Hi finally getting back to working on model. Question, when you attached the cabane wires to F2 and F3 did you set them on top of the J-hook threaded shaft or below?

Rcten

Nintendomaniac_00

rcten
Welcome Back!
I posted a few pics in post #84 and I will add a couple here. The close up shots are a little fuzzy - sorry. The open end of the j-hook is up (toward the top wing) on all of the cabanes. I am working on joining the bottom wing. Hope to fit the right panel tonight. Regards, NM

PS if you are wondering what the dowel is in there, it is to hook the tank hold down rubber bands over

Nintendomaniac_00

All
I found this pre-made 4" elevator joiner at Brodak (follow attached link). No luck with the Pattern folks. Thoughts?
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productde...ProductID=5969

rcten

Have one on the way, Thanks for the heads up.

Rcten

rcten

Starting to shape up.

Having problem uploading pic's, they come up to large?

rcten

Trying to upload again.

Worked this time, go figure?

Nintendomaniac_00

Nice work rcten!
I received the control horn I ordered from Brodak today it is a BH-752 1/8" x 3-1/4" This is the replacement for the whimpy elevator joiner that came with the kit. I don't know if you can see it very well in the pictures - this is a very nice brazed steel unit - solid!

Nintendomaniac_00

I'm making progress on sheeting the lower wing and starting to think about finishing touches and covering - planning to use Solartex. More to come. Regards, NM

Nintendomaniac_00

All
Have been working on details. Hours go in, but visible progress is slow. Here are some pics of aileron hinging. The kit calls for some old school thread hinges and beveling of both the wing and aileron leading edges. I opted for the good old Dubro 1/4 scale hinges, 3 per aileron. One pic shows the additional 1/8" cap I put on the front of each aileron and then sanded the bevel on it. Notice I have added doubler blocks in the wing and aileron to give the hinges plenty of support. A little carving and finese with the sanding block and filler and viola! I received a couple of rolls of solartex from Balsa USA yesterday so once I finalize the interplane strut brackets and supports I will do the final sand out and start the covering process. I purchased a 5 meter roll of vintage yellow and a 2 meter roll of vintage blue. I also picked up a can of the Poly Tak adhesive. I am thinking I will use that in areas where covering adhesion is critical like the nose and wing saddle. More to come. Hope your Spring has sprung and you are enjoying the hobby! NM

Nintendomaniac_00

Here is one more photo and it shows the elevator horn assembly. The unit I got from Brodak worked out great. (The stock unit was not going to work... see previous posts). Regards, NM

rcten

HI, NM I decided to make the stab and rudder removable as such to facilitate incident adjustments, covering and not so hopefully repairs. The stab asm. may never have to be removed, but I'll be able to. I also plan on the tail wheel being separate from the rudder, but still steerable.

Nintendomaniac_00

rcten
Good pics. A couple of questions; how are you going to keep the bottom of the rudder from being loose with your removable design? What incidence settings are you looking at for wings, stab and engine thrust? I picked up a couple of lengths of 5/8" K&S streamline aluminum tubing and some 0.032" sheet brass (for brackets) on the interplane struts. Pics to follow after the "head scratching" is done. Regards, NM