Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
I built the 60 size and it was a cakewalk to put together. Its not the greatest in terms of scale detail, but it still is a nice kit.
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
I built this kit last year as my first kit, and loved it. I went wit the clipped wing 83", and custom scale bungee landing gear. There are more scale kits out there, but probably a little harder to build. Follow the directions and read each step a few times before glueing. The hardest part was covering. I have an O.S. 75 AX inverted with an in-cowl muffler, and it flies great. I'm switching to an RCGF 20cc rear induction gasser soon though! Best of luck to anyone who wants to build one of these.
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
HI, JUST BOUGHT A GP 60 CUB KIT WAS THINKING ABOUT A TWO PEACE WING DOES ANYONE HAVE AND IDEA OR TWO THAT WOOD HELP ME THANK YOU CHICK.90" WING SPAND IS A PROBLEM FOR TRANSPORT .[]
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
I can't think of a good way of doing this without major modifications. The wing mounts to the top of the fuse, much like a trainer does. If transport is more of a problem, I would suggest building the 83" clipped wing. I covered it in a traditional yellow trim scheme, and you can't tell that it's a clipped wing. It's still a really long wing on this plane, and you will probably want the extra maneuverability. It's still quite a floater too. You can see a flight video at the following link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmkZRlF2fBc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmkZRlF2fBc
#30
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
ORIGINAL: seniorspud
HI, JUST BOUGHT A GP 60 CUB KIT WAS THINKING ABOUT A TWO PEACE WING DOES ANYONE HAVE AND IDEA OR TWO THAT WOOD HELP ME THANK YOU CHICK.90'' WING SPAND IS A PROBLEM FOR TRANSPORT .[]
HI, JUST BOUGHT A GP 60 CUB KIT WAS THINKING ABOUT A TWO PEACE WING DOES ANYONE HAVE AND IDEA OR TWO THAT WOOD HELP ME THANK YOU CHICK.90'' WING SPAND IS A PROBLEM FOR TRANSPORT .[]
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1964157
John
#31
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
I'm sure you'll love building and flying the GPs Cub, and I'm surprisedno one mention attaching floats to this bird. It's also a great starter float plane if you've never flown off water. I've built two and both are for floats. If you install the GPs 60 size floats, it explains very well about the set up of float flying which will come in handy for other planes you may what to try with floats. My Cub with clipped wings and floats weigh in close to 15 lbs flying her with a YS 91AC, on land..it's was over powered with the ys 91 but on water..my maiden was almost hands off the elevator getting her off the water..what a great flyer.
I say buy it, build it, fly it..you'll enjoy it. I also really like the Sig kit too, more scale then the GPs Cub.
Have fun and good luck.
Gerry
I say buy it, build it, fly it..you'll enjoy it. I also really like the Sig kit too, more scale then the GPs Cub.
Have fun and good luck.
Gerry
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RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
I have a bobcat BTW.
#35
RE: Great Plane's J-3 Piper Cub - 60. Good first kit?
First I want to state that I have had this model since 1999 and it is still flying. The only real things that I changed are:
My first variation from the manual is that I used the Saito FA-72. The 62, 72 and 82 are very interchangeable if you want a little more or less power. I tried the 62 (because I had one) and it was very scale but hard to handle on windy days.
The decals for the NC number are not of the same quality as the rest of the model. I had another set made and used my AMA # as the NC number.
The plastic windows are brittle and have been replaced but I was more skilled on the second install, five years later.
The landing gear needs to be replaced with a scale looking set if you want it to look more scale. The gear are more than strong enough but not even close to scale. I got the 1/5th scale from Robart and painted with fuel proof yellow spray.
As far as the cabin interior goes, you will need to make something but that is an easy addition even after the aircraft is built.
If something ever happens to my aircraft I will repair or rebuild because I really like how it handles; just like the full scale at low power and like a trainer other times.
My Thoughts,
jimm
My first variation from the manual is that I used the Saito FA-72. The 62, 72 and 82 are very interchangeable if you want a little more or less power. I tried the 62 (because I had one) and it was very scale but hard to handle on windy days.
The decals for the NC number are not of the same quality as the rest of the model. I had another set made and used my AMA # as the NC number.
The plastic windows are brittle and have been replaced but I was more skilled on the second install, five years later.
The landing gear needs to be replaced with a scale looking set if you want it to look more scale. The gear are more than strong enough but not even close to scale. I got the 1/5th scale from Robart and painted with fuel proof yellow spray.
As far as the cabin interior goes, you will need to make something but that is an easy addition even after the aircraft is built.
If something ever happens to my aircraft I will repair or rebuild because I really like how it handles; just like the full scale at low power and like a trainer other times.
My Thoughts,
jimm
#36
Light as a kite but stable as can be...Great easy to fly plane...
I think we'd have to strongly disagree with the above post. The Great Planes Cub .60-size is not a "very very heavy model". Here are the specs:
Wingspan: 90" (standard version)
83" (clipped wing version)
Wing area: 1123 sq in (standard)
1037 sq in (clipped wing)
Weight: 9.5-12lbs Length: 56.5"
Wing loading: 19 to 24oz/sq ft (standard wing)
That wing loading makes a model of that size into quite a floater. You can even get the model quite a bit heavier and still keep the wing loading below 28 ounces. Remember, there are fun scale warbirds designed for similar engine displacements that have much higher wing loadings and are still considered very fine flyers.
To get a Great Planes Cub .60 so heavy that it's a lousy flyer would take some serious over-building by the modeler, with too much weight added in a LOTof places...too much adhesive used, a too-large engine, too large and too many servos with a very large battery pack, a very large fuel tank, and so on and on. Built per the instructions, you will get a very nice model with a very modest wing loading that will fly very nicely.
Wingspan: 90" (standard version)
83" (clipped wing version)
Wing area: 1123 sq in (standard)
1037 sq in (clipped wing)
Weight: 9.5-12lbs Length: 56.5"
Wing loading: 19 to 24oz/sq ft (standard wing)
That wing loading makes a model of that size into quite a floater. You can even get the model quite a bit heavier and still keep the wing loading below 28 ounces. Remember, there are fun scale warbirds designed for similar engine displacements that have much higher wing loadings and are still considered very fine flyers.
To get a Great Planes Cub .60 so heavy that it's a lousy flyer would take some serious over-building by the modeler, with too much weight added in a LOTof places...too much adhesive used, a too-large engine, too large and too many servos with a very large battery pack, a very large fuel tank, and so on and on. Built per the instructions, you will get a very nice model with a very modest wing loading that will fly very nicely.
#40
The 90" span is the GP .60 Cub. and no, I wouldn't do that.
I've built many, many GP kits and they ALL have been super heavy and waaaaaay overbuilt! For example, just framed up a GP Ultimate .40. The supplied stock for the tail feathers (balsa) was so hard, dense and heavy that it could've easily passed for basswood! Could hardly even cut with a Zona saw. Needless to say, it went into the trash and I subbed my own balsa sticks of appropriate weight. The over built fuse sides I took a dremel too as well. Many guys have never built anything but GP kits so they don't know any better. I'm thankful that GP is still doing kits but as an experienced modeler, I realize that much of the wood supplied will be put into the trash or scrap bin and used only for patterns to sub my own lighter (better) wood.
I've built many, many GP kits and they ALL have been super heavy and waaaaaay overbuilt! For example, just framed up a GP Ultimate .40. The supplied stock for the tail feathers (balsa) was so hard, dense and heavy that it could've easily passed for basswood! Could hardly even cut with a Zona saw. Needless to say, it went into the trash and I subbed my own balsa sticks of appropriate weight. The over built fuse sides I took a dremel too as well. Many guys have never built anything but GP kits so they don't know any better. I'm thankful that GP is still doing kits but as an experienced modeler, I realize that much of the wood supplied will be put into the trash or scrap bin and used only for patterns to sub my own lighter (better) wood.
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unsure on newer motors. I had full wing on GP float kit with an OS108 ts. More than enough power. It would yank it off the water. I guess depends on 26cc make. I would think the Zenoah 26cc would lean on the heavy side and definitely more than enough power. probably overkill on power. with that said, depends your style. sport/scale flying of new era 3d hang on the prop. ugly with a CUB in my opinion but to each their own.
#49
''I think that is where your search should begin. You need to find an engine that will fit in a .60 sized Cub's cowl.
a 26cc sized engine will fly a 1;4 scale Cub.. The Zenoah G-26 fits in it's cowl, but the cowl has to be carved up to make it fit. I would think a 26cc motor in the GP Cub would be far too heavy and would not fit in the cowl, and the mounts may not fit on the firewall.
a 26cc sized engine will fly a 1;4 scale Cub.. The Zenoah G-26 fits in it's cowl, but the cowl has to be carved up to make it fit. I would think a 26cc motor in the GP Cub would be far too heavy and would not fit in the cowl, and the mounts may not fit on the firewall.
#50
I thought I posted a reply yesterday........guess not.
I would opt for a true 1/4 scale Cub and use the Zenoah G26 etc. Now, if you are stuck on going with the GP .60 Cub, I'd be looking for a 4strk. 1.00-1.25 to put on it. This will fly the Cub very scale like and give you good power too should you need it down low. The thing to remember with Cubs is to coordinate your turns with rudder. Don't get too slow and in too steep of a bank or it will spin in on you!!
BTW, I'd say that the .65LA would be seriously lacking on this bird.............I also can't believe that someone would suggest you put a 26cc gasser on it either!
I would opt for a true 1/4 scale Cub and use the Zenoah G26 etc. Now, if you are stuck on going with the GP .60 Cub, I'd be looking for a 4strk. 1.00-1.25 to put on it. This will fly the Cub very scale like and give you good power too should you need it down low. The thing to remember with Cubs is to coordinate your turns with rudder. Don't get too slow and in too steep of a bank or it will spin in on you!!
BTW, I'd say that the .65LA would be seriously lacking on this bird.............I also can't believe that someone would suggest you put a 26cc gasser on it either!