SunDevilPilot

Not really sure yet..

I know I will be making my own dash panel but who knows beyond that. I saw your panel and it looks great but I would like to try and make my own again. I am not going for a "Scale" model and will likely make the panel out of some exotic wood.

Phil

Zor

Hello J3 Cub lovers.

I trust it is ok to ask in this thread because most Cubs are yellow.

I am painting amodel and some areas are yellow and some areas are green.

The green after a couple of coats is opaque; cannot see the structure through it.

The yellow is still partly transparent after 3 coats.

What paint do you folks use to paint your J3s yellow so the structure is not visible ?

Is there not some yellow pigment that are opaque ?

I suppose I could have painted all the yellow areas white first. The white is opaque and hides the structure very well. I was afraid the whitecould change the shade of the yellow but I also fully expected the yellow to be opaque.

Thanks for any help.

Zor

P.S.: Please let me know if asking here was not appropriate.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Zor.

Here is my paint system.

Coat 1. Nitrate dope sealer.
Coat 2. Nitrate dope filler. This is 2/3 thined dope and 1/3 by dry valume baby powder.
Coat 3.Sandable primer coat.
Coat 4 Color coat.
Coat 5 Fuel proof clear coat.

Now the primer gives the opaque and the base tint.
It comes in white, gray, and rust. These give a light, medium, or dark tone to your paint.
You paint three test pieces and see what matches your end color goal best.

WacoNut

Zor,
I had the same issue with my 33% J-3, I covered it with Cub Yellow Solartex and you could see every bit of the framework. I had some Latex paint color matched and sprayed 3 light coats. It helped but didn't cure the issue. On all my other planes I covered them with Sig Koverall and spray Dupli-Color hig fill primer and sanded before painting. This solves all issues with tranparency. On the full scale planes they put down a silver coat for UV protection before the color coat and it makes the finish opaque.
Anthony

Zor

Thank you very much for responding AmishWarlord.

What I deduct from your system is that, as you said, you obtain the opacity by using a primer.so it seem to confirm that the yellow is not opaque. I am familiar with the typical primers white, gray and rust color.

I do not have any primer here at this moment but I would not have used any because I was confident that the yeallow would be opaque. There is no problem where the material is backed by sheeting which of course is itself opaque (stops the light transmission).

I have some yellow on the fuselage which is all sheeted. The problem arose on the wings where I have some open bays between the ribs behind the main spar.

I do not wish to see the ribs through the covering.
I cannot think of any remedy at this moment else than add some coats and weight.

Both the green and the yellow were bought at the same time from the same place.
All I did is select the colors from a color chart and I have to assume that the vehicle is the same and only the pigments were added.

Again thanks for replying.

Is there someone that has ever used some yellow that is opaque and primer is not needed ?

Zor

knucklebutt

Zor

Yellow is absolutely the hardest paint to cover well: Dosent matter what type brand ect. It has something to do with the pigment. A base coat of white can help.

A recent project where I used latex, it took 7 coats to cover where other colors took 3



Denis

Zor

Thank you very much for that information Denis.

I may have to try a heavy coat of white over the existing yellow and see it the strcture is hidden. It should because it did over the clear initial doping.

Then try a couple of yellow coats over the white or as many coats as needed to make it yellow.
I am trying to match the fuselage and tail which is already made and painted.

Zor

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

It might not match. Given the white undercoat will give it a lighter shade because of the transparency of the yellow. When I did my Super Cub, I used the silver undercoat and white over that and then my yellow final coats. Turned out very nice as it is a full scale feeling surface.

SunDevilPilot

Today I finished up painting the cream color onto the Rudder, Radio Tray, and Servo Tray. That completes the painting of the cream color.

After painting I hung the parts up to dry and continued on the mounting of the new motor. I measured the previous mount and determined I will need to make a spacer of 1 3/4 inches between the motor adapter and the X-Mount. To make the spacer I decided to try something a little different. Usually I would just make four aluminum stand-offs and bolt it up. However, I decided I would make one out of ply. I got the idea from the mounting of a DA-60 gas motor I had seen on a friend's plane.

To make the part I bolted the X-Mount onto a 3" square piece of plywood. The plywood block was 1" tall and is made from a lamination of 1/4" ply. The 1" height matches my longest flush trim bit. After the first block is trimmed on the router I glued that part to another 3" square block 3/4" tall bringing the final height to 1 3/4 inches. Once the part dries I will trim up the part using the flush trim bit. On the second step the bearing of the flush trim bit will follow the previously shaped part.

The spacer, due to its small size, is held with a clamp while being shaped on the router. The clamp gives me something to hold onto and keep my hands safely away from the router bit.

After the part is shaped the center will be bored out with a 1 1/2" forsner bit. Should be light and strong.

SunDevilPilot

SunDevilPilot

Zor

SinDevilPilot,

There is nothing better than to have the proper tools and know how to use them safely to do some beautiful work.

Thanks for all the nice pictures and the nice work you are doing.

Zor

SunDevilPilot

*** Double Post ***

SunDevilPilot

The woodworking part of the motor / spacer is now complete. I need to wait for the bolts to arrive in the mail, ordered some long bolts from MicroFasteners, in order to complete the part. I was not about to drive all over town looking for the length of bolt, 2 1/2", so I just ordered them.

I decided to enlarge the inner hole of the spacer to lighten it up even more. I added a fence on the spindle sander and worked each edge until the part ran true down the fence. By sanding the side opposite the fence you eliminate the safety hazard associated with pinching the wood between the spindle and the fence. The wood, when worked this way, can never become trapped.

I also drilled the mounting holes through base and copied the central hole through the spacer. Once that was done I drilled some 3/4" holes in the base to lighten that part. I also cut out the area behind the ESC mounting location.

Im really happy with the part and learned a thing or two along the way.

SunDevilPilot.

VincentJ

SDP, I was wondering if you could tell me the spray nozzle tip size that you used on your Sata Mini-Jet with the epoxy paint that you used. Thanks...

Vincent

SunDevilPilot

Sure.... Mine has the 1.2 SR tip...

I have sprayed PPG Automotive Paint, Nelson Hobby Paint (Waterborne), and now the Klass Kote Paint with my setup and all have sprayed good out of the gun. I usually run the gun wide open but when painting some small parts I will narrow down the fan. Great spray gun... It is also a good choice for those with a smaller compressor. I have a 15 gallon Dewalt compressor and it easily keeps up with the MiniJet. That was a large reason behind my original purchase aside from quality.

I detail clean mine with each use... It is such a nice spray gun it is almost a shame to get paint on it.. Cleanup is easy and usually takes about 10 minutes.

The paint chamber on the gun is fairly small and is easily cleaned with a Q-Tip and some thinner. I use one of those glue syringes to squirt thinner into the chamber flushing it out. Tear down of the nozzle and needle assembly takes about a minute.. You simply remove the air cap, use the provided tool to remove the paint aperture, and unscrew the needle from the rear.

The spray gun is expensive but should last a lifetime if cared for.

SunDevilPilot

VincentJ

Thanks for the reply SDP, I broke down and bought one myself. That gun comes with various nozzle sizes . The one you are using is for spot repair hence the SPafter the 1.2. I appriciate the help. Your paint finish looks stellar BTW!

SunDevilPilot

I did a lot of research at the time of purchase reference the tip size but for some reason the answer as to why the 1.2 SR escapes me at this time. Old age?

Whatever the reason the paint sprays good with that size.

SunDevilPilot

VincentJ

LOL, That's why I asked you!!!!

SunDevilPilot

The color change reference the red paint has begun. I am now committed to the change. The cowl and struts were sanded, washed, and are now drying off. Once they dry I will respray the new red onto the parts.

I was amazed at how orange the paint was as it was sanded in preparation for the new color. My fingers and the sanding block looked like Cheetos. Hopefully the new paint is what I intended.

I didn't take off all the paint, I just roughed it up.

SunDevilPilot

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Oh man, I loved the maroon and tan color scheme.

Going by your new colors I name this plane.....

SunDevilPilot

No Maroon, it will be bright red and cream.  The red I had previously painted was too orange for my liking.  The above photo is of the old paint sanded down for the new color.

SunDevilPilot

Cowl and Struts have been repainted. I am really happy now. The red is exactly what I wanted, very red and very bright. Of all the paint I have sprayed the red colored Klass Kote has been the best. It covered extremely well and was simple to spray.

It took a bit longer than expected so I am taking a break for now. Maybe tomorrow I will spray the wings.

SunDevilPilot

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Looks great!

knucklebutt

Phil

you get your butt back out there and finish those wings

No break for you !!!!!!!!!


Denis
(still again circling the Fairchild plans????)

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

Wish my Sig Cub was at this stage. Yours is looking great. I like your colors already.