Insanemoondoggie

tasesq , tx for the pic,s . Thats a good way to mount the rear bolts and a pic is worth a 1000 words. How did you do the LE mount ?

Insanemoondoggie

I sent an e-mail to Sig this morning about getting a new T.E. . Mike Lee sent me an e-mail right back and has them shipped on their way . Great customer service. Thanks much Sig!
Drilled servo lead holes in the W2 and W3 ribs . Used a 1/2 in. Foster bit . Drilled the holes nice and neat.

Insanemoondoggie

I decided to use the TE for the flaps and ailerons . I cut 2 1/4 inches off the rib tipsends , all but W1 and W4 ribs . Saved the cut off rib ends for the aileron ribs. I,m going to add a 1x1/4 x36 to the TE of the ribs and a 1x3/8 for the leading edge of the alierons . Also cut the first W2 rib down 1/8 in the front and 3/32 for the rest of the rib top. I intend to run the sheeting out one more bay.
I did add a bottom spruce doubler insted of the balsa one the planes calll for. Trying to beef the wing up without adding much weight.

loser

My Feedback: (37)

WOW.....a .91.... you may never get it to land...lol. I have a Magnum 52 4 cycle on mine. I mainly fly it with floats at float flys....plenty of power and still floats like a feather. I have a large "drop door" built into the bottom rear cabin area....mainly drop "sky divers". One of the funnest "slow puttin around" planes ever!!!

Steve

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

To convert the Senior to a bolted wing at the rear bolts is fairly straight forward as tasesq nice photos show and it is the method I used on several except for the leading edge.

Because of the way the Senior is designed with no forward bulkhead for the leading edge to rest aginst you have only two options. The first is to use two forward bolts which will have to go throught almost the thickest part of the wing (which is substancial) and use four bolts done the same way fore and aft.

This is problamatical since solid compression wood will have to be added to prevent collapse of the wing when the bolts are tightened or a difficult recessed hole is provided.

I choose to add a forward bulk head extension to provide a place for added leading edge wing pins to protrude into. This bulkhead I just used to also make a whimsical forward rake wingsheid.

John

tasesq

Hi Gents,

This is the way i did my forward wing hold-down:

1. Added a ply former that sits over the front of the cabin frame. I then stuck the curved ply that comes with the kit onto this ply piece (the curved bit is the one that forms the window shape).
2. I drilled 2 holes through the leading edge, and extended dowels into the wing. These run from the holes in the leading edge stock piece, back in a straight line until they poked through the upper and lower spars. I added shear webbing to the entire wing usign balsa, but at the first rib bay, where the dowels went through the spars i used a piece of ply shear web with a hole drilled in it to accept the wing dowel.
3. I just added the balse block and sanded to shape. The 2 holes were extended through the balsa block and filled in prior to glassing.
4. I added a epoxy/microbaloon filler to the wing to smooth the void and create a nice fairing.

I figure that the wing load will transfer from between the leading edge and spars into the dowels, then through the dowels into the ply piece which was shaped like the bottom half of a "H" with the 'legs' of the "H" running down the sides of the front cabin frame. I shaped the bottoms to suit the curve of the nose upper deck, and extended the sheeting at the cabin side frames forward to cover the ply piece - so apart from an extra 3.2mm thickness to the forward cabin frame, you can't tell the difference.

You'll also see i have been fluffing around with a few other things:
1. Fuel hatch held down by a magnet
2. Cargo door hiding the master switch (a lit 12V auto switch)
3. A second window in the middle
4. Cockpit combing
5. Cockpit panel
6. Cabin floor picture to match the cockpit picture (just a mockup at this stage).
7. a pilot of course!
8. Spats on the wheels

I also added the following:
1. Ailerons with a servo installed in the wing
2. flashing beacon lights / nav lights and a 12v auto globe LED landing light in the wing (operable from the Tx)
3. Tail wheel
4. Pull-Pull rudder and Pull-Pull tailwheel steering from the rudder servo

It is fully sheeted in 1/16" balsa and glassed. I am in the process now of filling the weave, sanding, sanding, sanding etc etc

I was thinking about putting some corrugations on the elevator and ailerons like a Cessna? The TF Cessna 182 kit uses ABS plastic L sections, but I have not been able to find the size...

I've also added some pics of how i plan to paint it - it will be in Nelson's hobby paints with Monokote Dark Red, and USMil Light Dove Grey (once i find a decent compressor i can afford!)

I have an OS .46AX - which i hope will be enough. But from what everyone says, the wing is so good that it should be ok. It will just fly scale!

Send some pics of other's Kadets!!!

tasesq

I have no idea why they came out so big - i resized them down to 200kb each!

Oh well. [:@]

Here is the paint scheme pics:

Insanemoondoggie

The pic size thing is a problem with one of their servers .
tasesq , thanks for all the pic,s and info . Your Sr. looks great , you do nice work. ,cockpit is looking really nice.
Your pics have given me some idea,s for my wing mounting. With the .91 fs I,ll need to make sure it,s strong enough.
Thought about sheeting the wing but think sheeting and glassing the center, top and bottom well be enough. I,ll install spar webs full lenth front and rear spar and add some extra bracing.
John ,those round windows give your Sr a cool look. Tx for the pic.s

Insanemoondoggie

Made a trip to the LHS for balsa , wanted to use 3/16 for the wings TE ,but had to settle for 1/4 . I glued the ribs ,spars , spar ribs and trailing edge in place . You can see in one of the pic,sthe aileron I,ve been kicking around. LE is 3/4 tri stock that I,ve done a little shaping on with a razor plane.
The ailerons are going to end up around 3 1/4 x 20 . Anyone have any idea how much throw I need ? The leading egde of the aileron is 3/4 inches tall . I,m trying to figure out how to keep the hinge line tight. Hard to do with such a big radius on the ailerons leading edge.
Installed all the ribs but the center W1 , the one the plans say to set with the included ply gauge . I want 1 in. at each wing tip and thought I,d prop the wing up 1 in. at the wing tip and then set the W1 rib at 90* with a try square . Thatshould get me the 2 in.dehidral I,m looking for.
Engine should be here today , if it quits raining I,ll throw it on the engine stand for a few tanks.

ppkk

tasesq,

Great pictures! Can I ask what software you used to do the paint scheme?

tasesq

Hi ppkk and Insanemoondoggie!

I used the free program Google Sketchup - it is amazingly easy to use, and is a fantastic tool for model building. I can't believe on the CAD forum no-body was interested when i mentioned it! They seem to all be pro's in CAD - but for people like me (can use excel and word!) then Sketchup is great. I've attached some pics of a EDF that i am looking at building one day (if i ever finish the Senior). I just put in the 3 views at the real scale size, and then built from there! I used profili for the airfoils on the wing. Still a bit of work to do on this one of course - like the landing gear!

Insanemoondoggie,

I actually hinged my ailerons at the top, and used a piece of triangle stock that is 1" across the longest side (the hypotenuse!).

I based the design on what others had done (i found the following info from somewhere on the web).

This is a great thread so far!

tasesq

In fact,

because i am in a giving mood today (i got out of having to go to the wife's family's day at the races!) attached is a blank version of the Kadet model i through together.

Please note - this is NOT excat scale - it is just a rough-in of the model to get the feel for the color scheme i wanted to use in the 3D world.

To add the lines you like, create a vertical blank recrangle on the aircraft centreline, and draw in your proposed trim lines. You then delete all surfaces outside the trim lines, and make it a component. You then extrude the faces out so they extend past the fuselage sides and cut through the fuse sides in effect. You then open the fuse component, and double click to select all items, then select 'intersect with model'. This will draw your lines along the fuse as you designed them. You can then use the materials panel to select the colors you want.

Here is a link to download SketchUp: http://sketchup.google.com/download/

Here is a link to a tutorial of how to do an Intersect Model: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ax9HY06PB8M

I learnt the program in a few hours of work using these tutorials!

DOH - the file is 9mb - too big to upload. PM me if you want it!

BOB MOORE

Hi Guys I have bashed about ten Kadets for me and others I copied the wing ribs from a Stick and made wing flat like a Stick, strip ailerons, Wing and engine
and stab at zero degrees incedence. Installed rudder flying wires. Flew all them with OS 40 anre Os 70 FS. Also bomb bay. I also build one as a low wing.
Also taildragers. WE had great fun with these planes. I have a Kadet that is over 20 years old Bob

Insanemoondoggie

Thanks for the info tasesq .
Bob M since this is my first bash , I probably wont get to carried away on the mods ,but then again , who knows how it well turn out , once it is finished. Ionly fly taildraggers , unless I,m buddy boxing with someone that has a trike.
The Magnum .91 came yesterday , threw it on the test stand andran a gallon of Omega 10% thru it. The engine runs as nice or better than my high dollar engines. This is my 3rd Magnum 4s , and for the price they can,t be beat. Great idle and transition to wide open . Even sloppy rich , it runs very clean ,
My trailing egde also came from Sig yesterday , 2 days to get here from the time I e-mailed them , to my front door. What great service, I just can not say enough good things about Sig . This is my 8th Sig kit and the first issue I,ve run into , and it was a minor one .

Insanemoondoggie

Decided to start over on the flaps/ailerons . Rounding the leading edge will work but I do not care for the hinge gap ,so I am going to try and attach the ailerons by the top of the leading edge.
Not to sound like a broken record , but what do you guys think a throws should be on the aileron and flaps ? I,m thinking 2" max on the ailerons and 45 degrees on the flaps. Would like to keep the gap on the bottom of the wing as small as possible , yet have enough room for the throws.
With the ailerons as large as they are ., it should,nt take to big of throws, even with most the dehidral taken out ???? Any thoughts ?

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Hi gents.  I do not (as yet) have a Kadet and my model in waiting is a Tiger 60.  But this is a very good thread to follow.  You guys have alot of good info for use on any build.  I am totally confused about one thing.  Maybe its my age or lack of experiance, or maybe I am just dense.  But I have always used the word "bashing" in a negative light.  I cant figure out how you guys are using it at all.  Care to enlighten me?  Please?

lfinney

My Feedback: (44)

kit bashing is like hacking electronics, its about improved performance and making it personalized, the longer you build , the more you develop personal likes and dislikes about construction details

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

stevenmax kitbashing is long time honored building discipline unto itself. It has been around since the beginning of model aircraft building and indeed it is my favorite form of building that I get great sense of pleasure from.

It does not mean just changing kits it can be anything from true scratch build, Plans built, kit built and indeed arfs. Does not matter what you start with What matters is you do something to make it yours. This can be anything from just changing the color scheme on an arf to makeing the aircraft something entirely different even unrecognizable from what it was or something that performs entirely different.

It can be more complicated than the original and take much longer to build and it can even cost much more as that is not the reasons we pursue 'kit Bashing'

John[8D]

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

So cool.  So I guess since I will be changing the Tiger 60 from a trike to a taildragger, and fixed gear to retracts that I will be bashing this one pretty good.  I was even considering flaps.  Oh ya.  And I will be making a cowl that is not part of the standard kit.  I hear the Tiger is a floater on landing so I will probably leave off the flaps.  But thats bashing enough.  Would'nt you agree?  This gives me an idea for the thread title when I start the build the evening of Dec 25th.....
Thanks bra

foodstick

I have always liked kitbashing, or mild/wild customizing...

The kit bashers motto is is"If it looks like the box, you messed up !"

The first pic (red plane) is a bashed ultra sport 40, the second plane believe it or not is a 4star60 with a little wood added on !

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Bravo Foodstick, A Fourstar into a Hawker Typhoon or Tempest!

John[8D]

tasesq

Hi All,

Here is a great thread on Kit Bashing a Senior into a Aero Commander!!!!!

That is a serious bash!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50..._1/key_/tm.htm

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Here are my mods on the SR.

tasesq

Hi Walter,

Great looking Sneiors!

A couple of questions:
1. What did you use for the corrugations on the ailerons / flaps? (like a Cessna?)
2. did you make your own cowl? How did you do it? - I would love a cowl instead of the basla 'cheeks' on mine...

Thanks!

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

The corrugations are merely scribed with a permanent ink marker and the cowl was made by laying fiberglass with epoxy over a foam male mold, very easy to do, this method is referred to us "lost mold method", it's the easiest way to make any fiberglass part one time only.