bryris

A friend of mine gave me this previously opened kit about 4 years ago b/c he just didn't have the patience to build it. I've discovered, I quite enjoy building kits. I built a SIG LT-40 kit and enjoyed most of the building process. Made some mistakes along the way, but fixed them and have a good solid airplane now.

As a second kit, I've decided to build this Chipmunk. It is an older kit. Most of the parts are die cut rather than laser cut.

I've just spent the last 2 hours going through every single piece of wood required and was pleasantly surprised at the results. I am only missing one sheet and it is one of the 2 sheets required to build the first set of beveling tools. So, my first question, are these tools a must? I could certainly order another sheet from CG if needed.

Also, I appear to have most of the hardware. Some of the hardware bags were opened before I got the kit. I am not sure if all the little screws are there or not. What would you do in this case? Should I just start building and when I hit a missing screw, solve the problem then? Or should I just drop the extra bucks and purchase all new hardware bags from CG along with the extra beveling sheet?

On a personal note, I am wrapping up the CPA exam (accounting) and don't have much time to devote to this kit right now. However, I am going to start VERY slowly and pick up speed after the beginning of the new year. I will post my photos and other experiences along the way as I get underway.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

No you do not need the beveling tools that come with the kit. The beveling can be done with a good bar sander. As for missing hardware, start building the plane. If anything is missing you will know as you go. Looking forward to some pics of the build and good luck, Dave

Alex7403

Very good news I'm gonna build the super chipmunk this winter too.

Alex

outdoorhunting

I finished my CG "Chippy" a couple of yrs ago. It was a fairly easy build. As long as ya follow the instructions, you'll not have a problem. One thing I did that I wouldn't do again was to fully sheet the wing, ( makes it too heavy ) other than that, it's a very fun plane to fly.

bryris

Maybe we can bounce some ideas off each other. Look forward to it.

Alex7403

Outdoorhunting, do you remember the weight I mean ready to fuel and what motor did you put in there?
I'm thinking to do some mods like 4" wing center fiberglass tape and the belly pan like the US60 means of balsa and not the provided plastics.
more important question how did you reinforced the landing gear?

byris, I'm looking forward to it, (I'm gonna build the super chipmunk too this winter).

Thanks
Alex

outdoorhunting

Originally, I had a Super Tiger "60" in it. I ended up putting ST "75" & am very happy with it's extra power. ( Check my little note @ the bottom of thread) I didn't weigh it at all. I don't like the wing mounted landing gear & put my LG on the fus right in front of the wing. I beefed up that area when I built it for that very reason. I always use the fiberglass tape to beef up the wing & use fiberglass resin instead of epoxy. ( It's a LOT easier to sand & is just as strong. I also, use the fiberglass tape all around the wing saddle. It doesn't ad that much weight & I feel the extra strength is worth it. We have a grass airstrip & uh, sometimes my landings are not the smoothest. I went the extra 35 bucks & bought a fiberglass Specialties cowl. I absolutly hate those factory ABS things !! If I could figure out how to download a pic, I'd do it. Oh, well. Good luck with your "Chippy"

Alex7403

Thanks outdoorhunting I hate those A BS plastics too,


Alex

Live Wire

Down loading PIC's Where's your grandson
Sir LiveWire

outdoorhunting

Hey, Sir liveWire. Not seen you around much!!!!!! It took me a minute to think what you ment by grandson!! He did show me how to do it & I wrote the process down. Then I lost the instructions. It seems when you hit 65 it is ALL downhill from there. I see your score is over 4000 now. It looks like it will have to be Sirgrandlivewire. HAHAHA.

badger5964

My Feedback: (6)

Hello,

I too am a slow builder because of lack of free time. I am covering an older CG chipmunk kit that has been on the work bench since March. It is an older die cut kit, bought off eBay a couple three years ago. The part fit is not as slick as the laser cut kits, a few peices needed sanding or the die crunched out some holes and chips.

I built mostly according to plan. I did not do the flaps, as I've built a couple kits with flaps but never used them. I used dual aileron servos and mounted them"Sig" style. That is a 1/16" ply access door screwed to a frame between ailerons. The servo mounts to the door. I just think it is a neater install as it hides all but the servo arm. I also did the tail surfaces "Sig" style. To shape the fuse/tail surface fairing, I mount glued in spacers equivalent the stab and fin to hold the two blocks for shaping. This makes for much easier and smoother shaping of these peices. The stab and fin are covered off the plane, then glued in place. I find this easier, neater and better looking then trying to shape balsa then cover tail already mounted to plane. I left off the plastic wing tips. I like the chopped look better. I did not use either of the vacuum plastic fuse/wing transitions. I am leaving off the front one altogether. For the rear, I glued in balsa and used epoxy and microballons to make a smooth transition. I used a 1-1/2" fiberglass strip, laminated with epoxy for center reinforcement. The suggested nylon cloth and CA is messy and I have yet to get a good looking result.

I have my own favorites for hardware and will not use most of what was provided. Plastic clevis, EZ connectors, bellcranks, plastic hinges, will be discarded. The hardware package peices I will use are the nylon landing gear straps, a wheel collar for the tail wheel, tail wheel mount and the nylon control horns. So you are not missing anything of value, easily replaced and IMHO, most of it trash to be discarded.

Scott

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

If you're worried about bevels...here's a good way to ensure symmetry.

Take an aileron for example. Make sure it's not warped on the hinge side. Take it, and stand it edgewise on a flat surface, making sure there's no gap. Once you're satisfied, make marks on the aileron as to how far back you want the bevel to go. Say 1/8th inch. Use the straight edge and draw a line that's 1/8th of an inch away from the edge...all the way down the aileron. Flip it over and do likewise. Then, run a line right down the centerline wheer the hinges will be. If you have a 3/8ths thick aileron, draw the line so it splits 3/16ths (half).

Now you have some references. I usually take a #9 blade and literally "carve" a rough bevel. Then I use a sanding block to sand smooth "up to the lines".

This method has made as good, if not better bevels, than any bevel tool I've ever used. You can literally sand yourself a nice razors edge bevel that will allow good travel, and zero gap.