DMehalko

My Feedback: (42)

Making me want to build another Uproar! Looking good!

RICKSTUBBZ

DM.....been a while.....I hope all has been well!

I have entered that “mode” where I am breaking these uproars faster than I can get around to repairing them.

Yesterday I had a rare “dead stick” on the Blue uproar. While trying to land it right in front of me (which I did touch right in front of me) I bounced the thing to about six foot high. Well, sure enough stalled it right out..... and hit the ground with the muffler first and cracked the firewall loose. So, Now I get to fix that one. Looks like a clean break and easy fix with a little time...



Here is a couple shots of the finished “new” ailerons ready to cover for the purple uproar.



Here is the update for number of flights Almost 100 on all three

Purple 114
Blue 109
Red 93

RICKSTUBBZ

The wrinkles are here to stay due to the botched patch work with the old purple covering. But here is comparison shots of the new on top of the old.



Since I have no intention of ever using them again, I removed the old ailerons buy cutting halfway through the top on each side of the hinges. Used a screw driver to peel the balsa and covering back, then peeled the aileron off the hinges..

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Had to go to the computer club today so I cut out the fuse from the plans sheet and took it with me and got a copy so I can cut it up. Going out now to tape the original back into the plans sheet and see how things will fit my copy. I have to tape the copy together too. Off to the shop.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I got all the fuse parts cut yesterday and started assembling it today. I first got it all sanded then got the wing saddle shaped and sanded so the wing fits then pre-fit all the ribs, all is a relative term. I also added some carbon fiber to the aft part of the fuse doubler. I have had a couple of them break the fuse just behind the wing. Just waiting for the epoxy to set so I can add the last former that fits in just in front of the stab. A trick is to leave off the cap strips on the wing except for the two center ribs or you tend to break them when slipping the wing through the fuse.

RICKSTUBBZ

Gene,

Sure would like to see what you are doing with the carbon fiber.
I reinforced my uproars with triangle stock. Even though the main reason was to allow me to round off the corners, it still added a lot of strength.
With that being said....I still cracked the fuse on the red one, exactly where you are talking about.

Are you doing stock locations for the servos? Still going with the Old Fox for an engine??

Even though no-one is posting, people are looking, so keep on showing us what you have going on...

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I'm using items I have on hand so I have dove into my box of old servos and what not, it will have all standard servos instead of me going out and buying new micro servos. If I have it I'm using it although the standard servos will be a weight adder and I was trying to beat the weight. I added in the stock type of control rods, nyrod, going with the one piece elevator halves. Just the stock push pull system. last time I did anything like this was the swoose build. It too was built with on hand items but I had enough micro servos for it.
Most time I spent on anything today was setting up the fire wall. I located a 40 size motor mount, used but the holes were a match for the Fox .40 I'm using. It's a two piece beam mount so I had to attach the engine then mark the holes on the fire wall. Drilled all the holes for the mount, fuel line and pressure line. Then I had to line up and drill the throttle cable hole. Must have removed the engine from the mount a half dozen times but everything came out well, blind nuts are installed. Have the engine at a 45 with the muffler down on the bottom of the fuse.
I quit when I had to refill my glue bottle. So far no big mods other then the tail feathers. I just taped them on to give you an idea of what I did.OH, the photos open just fine for me and show 1.22 mb.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Ran out of battery power in my camera yesterday. I have only gone buy the drug store twice and walked in once and still forgot to get a new pack. Before I went buy the drug store again a few minutes ago I thought I was finished with the fuse but now I remembered I wanted to install a piece of ply in the butt for the tail wheel. I don't recall but I think the kit has a piece die cut for you already?
Anyway, back out to the shop, I have the angle stock setting up now behind the fire wall so adding the tail wheel ply will only be an added hour of epoxy hurry up and wait.
OK, went out to install the tail wheel plate and looked at the plans, I forgot, they used that funcky wire in the stab tail wheel. I did it my way so I can use one of the tail wheels I have on hand. Seriously, I was warned about splitting the stab a lot of years ago with that system but never once did it ever happen and the stock system steers very well. I recall inserting a piece of brass tubing in the stab so it didn't wear out the hole and wobble. I may decide to bend some wire and do it as shown? That way I can use a smaller tail wheel with less weight.

dakoris73

Graybeard,
I would be very interested in seeing how you did the tail wheel as I did have alot of problems with the stock setup on mine. I had a bumpy landing and ripped out the tail wheel. Since then, I haven't been able to get it to steer straight or correctly again. I'm rebuilding my uproar again, and wanting to do something different with the tail wheel so that I won't have this problem again........

Thanks.
dakoris73

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

That's easy enough if I can lock into the thought I need batteries for my camera and go to the store today. On the plans they show the wire tail wheel that mounts to the side of the rudder. I recall doing it once like that on a kit then trying the other type that the wire slips into a hole drilled into the rudder and I put a piece of brass tube in the hole to keep the hole from wobbling out. Later on I used the aftermarket tail wheel that screws onto the fuse and I just used a piece of fuel line and slipped it over the wire and screwed it onto the bottom of the rudder. A photo will explain it a bunch better. You do need a hardwood mounting plate in the back of the fuse though. If the dumbass married to my wife gets a pack of batteries today I will show you. I think I have one set up from my Hots or something. It's really old school but it works. I'll just edit a photo into this post.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

OK, first in photo 3 I installed a hardwood area in the aft of the fuse for the tail wheel I used an old tail wheel assembly and did a mod to it, used a couple of wheel collars to hold it together then drilled and threaded one for 4-40 then just added some all thread as a tiller, the assembly mounts to the hardwood plate and I slip a piece of fuel line over the tiller and screw the line to the bottom of the rudder. Easy, steers well and doesn't break anything in a hard landing. All the angle stock is in behind the LG block and fire wall, everything is fuel proofed and the top hatch is glassed and the glass on the sides has been sanded off. Just needs sanding now and I will start assembling the plane and making up the controls. It should be assembled next week and ready to cover.
I fully assemble a plane first and set the CG before covering but I don't have a battery pack on hand but all the controls will be made up before I start. I would like to order a couple rolls of covering too from Hobby King, all I have on hand is Yellow and I'm a bit sick of yellow right now.

dakoris73

Thank you Graybeard for showing these pics of the rear tailwheel assembly. This setup definitely looks better and more reliable than the stock tailwheel. Keep up the good work and I'm eagerly awaiting your updates and progress of your uproar. I'm hoping to be able to start building my 2nd uproar here in the next couple weeks. My plan is to build a set of floats for this one and use this as a float plane...... should be fun...........

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Wing is in and dumbass forgot to cut the hinge slots before he installed the wing, two slots will need to be cut by hand. I need to sand the front of the stab then cut the hinge slots before I glue it on.
I went to the Red Bull Air Race yesterday, RB puts on a great race and very well run. LV Speedway really sucks!!! I get free tickets to the NASCAR race and no longer bother with it. The town of Vegas is designed to get every penny out of your pocket, the track is a worse rip off. You are only allowed one bottle of water per person to take with you, gthen you have to pay $4.00 a bottle for warm water. No drinking fountains to be found. It was 90 degrees outside of the track and well over 100 inside. We only watched 12 of the first pilots race and had to leave. By then there weren't many people left to watch them.
I have to go again today but I'm not getting there early. I bought two one gallon bottles of water and have them froze. These will go into two soft sided coolers with wet dish towels to help keep us cooled down. Not a lick of shade to be had so you tend to melt. Crappy venue but great race. My wife is a motor head and couldn't go yesterday so I'm stuck going again today. I will take my wife to lunch first, you can't afford a hot dog at the track.Don't plan on getting therre until the race is about to begin.
This used to be a great town with deals every place you looked. Those days are long gone. Bring back the BOYs!! They knew how to run a town.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Went out to the shop for a few minutes and ended up out there for several hours, even made a trip over to the wood workers club to run the ailerons through the micro sander. I got all the hinge slots cut then I got lost in putting on all the cap strips on the wing ribs. Question of the day: How can I get so much glue on my fingers doing something so simple????Before I walked out I used epoxy and laid the stab onto the fuse. Sure are a lot of hinges for a small plane!!! I did add some stock behind the slots on the wing for a bit of added grip. Sure wish Pacer still made the hinge glue again. I hate using epoxy and I just ran out of it. Getting close to final sanding and covering.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

In the bones, test fitted the hinges today then I remembered I was building this one stock and I didn't attach the elevator halves together. I rooted around and found a wire that was already bent, 3/32 but I'm debating on that or just a Kabob bamboo stick? Doesn't mater yet, I ran out of epoxy and it will be a while before I get to the hobby shop for supplies, I really hate to drive across town and over by the strip unless I need a bunch of stuff. The rudder looks huge to me for some reason, I didn't make it that much bigger.

RICKSTUBBZ

Gene,

It Looks like an Uproar!

I like the look of the bigger rudder. Can't wait to see it covered.

I add a space between my pictures to make them easier to see.
I Still can't enlarge the pictures you post on my computer at home.
I don't know what is up with that. I guess my machine is old and tired.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Road Trip, I have to go to Nice to get a 20 inch prop for the PM and I will have to go to Hobby People for some Epoxy. I'll do that when I go to that part of town again. No telling when that will be. I still have a few things I can do to it while I'm waiting to get over to that side of town. I have a lot of wire on hand and think I will bend some LG with smaller wire too? If not I have a couple of old LGs I bent for others. Mount servos and make up the control rods not to mention finish sanding.
I'll go through my covering and see what I have on hand besides yellow. May order more from HK?

RICKSTUBBZ

Tower has the kits on sale till November 15th

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Just starting to cover my Roar. I had to use epoxy to install the hinges, it's my second choice but they no longer make Pacer hinge glue. The hinges went in fine but with epoxy I like to pin the hinges. Very simple, just drill a hole through the hinges that a tooth pick will fit into snugly then use a drop of CA on the pick and let it flow into the edge. I cut them off with a very thin wheel then grind them down a bit with a burr before covering.
I drill a hole into the hinge slot then use a syringe to squish in the epoxy into the hinge slot.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Been a while but I got back to covering. Ran out of red so it's going to be red, yellow and blue. I quit covering today after I installed the controls, tomorrow the epoxy will be set and it's time to get serious.

RICKSTUBBZ

Hey Gene,
I'm thinking those colors are going to work great for an Uproar!
It'll sure show up great with those mountains for a back drop.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Now that I can see again I'm sure this one will show up fine. I may go out later but at this point I closed up the shop. I have the only kinda hard thing to cover, I'm saving the easiest part for last. The sides are a bit of a problem to do right with the wing in the way but the wings are really easy then it's on to the fun part, the trim. Yesterday I decided the bottom hatch that goes over the servos was a bit flimsy so I added a little carbon fiber over it just for that added kick.
I may even break down and order a canopy??
I'm using the China Cote yellow and when you press down and slide the hot iron over it to get it nice and flat the white glue squishes out, nothing to worry about, it comes right off with a little acetone and you will never see it again. The China Cote is even easier to work with then the Ultra. Let me see, something negitive to say about the product?? Well, the backing is full of static and it wants to cling to you when you peel it!!! I just peel it next to my bench and it slides off and attaches itself to that, I have a big pile of it stuck on the bench!! At under 12 bucks for a five meter roll and that's all I have to say bad about it??

Pylonracr

Gene
I may have the canopy from the uproar kit I bought a couple of years ago. I didn't put it on because I like it better without. Let me know if you want it and I will try to locate it for you.

Scott

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

It's a poopyugler day in Vegas, if it was colder I would swear it is going to be a snow day, yes, it snows in Vegas every couple of years!I went out to the shop late so didn't get as much done as I wanted before my wife got up but I did manage to finish the two sides then after lunch I started on the wings. Got the bottom of one wing done. I have discovered a couple of things while covering. The main thing is I didn't sand near as well as I should have, I can now see all the places that needed more attention, oh well, my bad. I used a bit of Mono silver on the wing timp.
A few words about this China Cote from Hobby King. It's great stuff, can't say enough good about it. Rick brought me a 5 meter roll of yellow when he came out for a visit, I covered a 90 inch Prime Cut with it and so far I'm using the same roll for this Roar. I won't have enough of this roll to finish the Roar but it will be close. At about 12 bucks a roll it can't be beat.
I put it down with the correct heat then turn the iron up a bit and run it over the covering and it shrinks up tight as a drum.
The negative is that when I apply pressure the white glue squishes out. Good news it a bit of acetone removes it.
The Prime Cut is a big 90 inch plane too, the wing cord is almost 22 inches and the fuse is a slab side so five meters goes a long way. I had gone from Mono to Ultra and now the China cote is my go to covering. It's stocked in the US warehouse so shipping is really cheap. Good stuff, give it a try!!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Now comes the fun part, trim work, I wonder what it's going to look like? Rick, I still haven't been able to get the wrinkles out of the ailerons, I drilled holes in the TE to let the heat and gas out but even that didn't work. I'm going to give it one more try then just live with it. Oh, I also found the canopy I was looking for. I knew I had one at some point!!!