Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 build
#1076
Thread Starter
The sale is good through Dec 2nd - Wednesday
Yeah Gene, canonpy and landing gear, tail wheel, and some screws. Maybe even some hinges. No tank and no motor mount though.
But hey, for $35 you can't go wrong.
If I did not already have three of these, I would buy three.....
The sale is good through Wednesday December 2nd.......................
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LW8417&P=1
#1077
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i built it in September, and after a bad maiden, due to the speed control frying and losing control. I fixed it and it flies great on a 4 cell set up.
i cut the lettering with sign vinyl
ed
#1078
Well I purchased the kit. Now I will have to completely read this thread when I am ready to build. With my tower coupon I got the kit, 3 propellers, 2 tank filters and 2 tank stoppers. Billed $40.18, not too bad.
#1079
My Feedback: (-1)
I would like to see photos of how and where Ed put his battery pack in this little plane. I have seen a couple of them with electric motors but there isn't a lot of room for a battery.
Gene
#1080
Thread Starter
Big uproar
Look what I just found on Towers Website.....
Not too long ago there was some talk about scratch building a big one. Well...Somebody already did it!
Here is an actual link http://towerhobbies.com/products/photo_page/photos/ziegler.jpg
Not too long ago there was some talk about scratch building a big one. Well...Somebody already did it!
Here is an actual link http://towerhobbies.com/products/photo_page/photos/ziegler.jpg
#1084
My Feedback: (-1)
Well Bill, you take your 40 size plans to Kinko's and cut them so they can be enlarged and be on one sheet of paper. Say the wing first and have it enlarged, tape the wing back onto the plans then cut the plans again so you can get the fuse and stab on a sheet of paper. Kinko's machines have a limit to the paper size so when enlarging you have to work it all out.
There are print shops with bigger copy machines if you look around. I have enlarged some really big plans at kinko's though just by cutting the originals and taping them back together as needed.
For those that have never flown giant scale planes before, the fun in the Roar is how fast it can do everything, by going bigger it will do things smoother but also slower. That is why the 60 size never caught on. When you compare the 40 and 60 in flight you will find the 60 to be a bit of a dog!!
I never did it with a Roar but I have built several sizes of the Hots. You can buy the different size plans from Airage or MAN plans.
Some planes like the Kaos do translate to the size change very well b ut again, the bigger the smoother but slower. You can also buy the Kaos plans in several different sizes. You can also buy the 80 inch Kaos kit from Blue Jay if they are still in operation?? If not then there are plans available.
There are print shops with bigger copy machines if you look around. I have enlarged some really big plans at kinko's though just by cutting the originals and taping them back together as needed.
For those that have never flown giant scale planes before, the fun in the Roar is how fast it can do everything, by going bigger it will do things smoother but also slower. That is why the 60 size never caught on. When you compare the 40 and 60 in flight you will find the 60 to be a bit of a dog!!
I never did it with a Roar but I have built several sizes of the Hots. You can buy the different size plans from Airage or MAN plans.
Some planes like the Kaos do translate to the size change very well b ut again, the bigger the smoother but slower. You can also buy the Kaos plans in several different sizes. You can also buy the 80 inch Kaos kit from Blue Jay if they are still in operation?? If not then there are plans available.
#1086
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These are fun to fly and build. I had one with a 40 OS and it was a blast to fly .
I build another one and electrified it, would go straight up on a 4S Lipo. And they are fun to build.
If I didn't have a house full of planes, I'd get another one...
I build another one and electrified it, would go straight up on a 4S Lipo. And they are fun to build.
If I didn't have a house full of planes, I'd get another one...
#1088
My Feedback: (6)
Tower has the Uproar on sale for $35 during their Cyber Monday Sale
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LW8417&P=1
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LW8417&P=1
Thanks for the heads up Rick! . I couldn't resist, got my order in before they ran out, even though I need another kit like I need a wooden leg! I'm still flying my second Dazzler, but if I splinter it, I'll throw this Uproar together!
If not, I'll pass it on to one of you guys for my cost.
#1089
Thread Starter
Yesterday I dropped my glow plug igniter on the red uproar and it busted a nice hole in the covering......Called it a day after that. Trying to decide whether or not to fix it right or grab the packing tape.
Speaking of my three uproars - here’s a tidbit of useless info: It has not been a year for many flight s for me. I had one stretch in the beginning of the year where I did not fly for 4 1/2 months. I have only logged 40 uproar flights in all of 2015 and 34 of those were on the red uproar. Blue Uproar has not flown since Sept 21 of 2014. The firewall on it still needs repaired from a botched dead stick landing that cracked the firewall to fuse joint...
And since I have all this wonderful technology in front of me -- here the numbers and a pretty little graph..
------------------Total--2010--2011--2012--2013--2014--2015
Blue Uproar----108-----20-----26------28------7------27------0
Red Uproar----136-------0-------1------20----28 -----53-----34
Purple Uproar-120-------4-----61------27-----20-------2------6
Total-------------364-----24-----88------72-----55-----82-----40
Last edited by RICKSTUBBZ; 12-21-2015 at 04:54 AM.
#1090
Thread Starter
Wing/Covering repair
I got around to repairing the covering on the red uproar last night. I decided to give it a go --- doing a respectable repair versus taping the thing up… If nothing else I need the practice ---- right???
It is hard for me to explain--- but this helps a lot on open framework patch jobs. Once you put the patch on the top - these stitches will help keep the covering from doing funny things under heat and will help prevent the repair from pulling apart when you try to shrink. The pictures will tell most of the story. Sorry, the lighting was terrible. But I reckon these will get the point across.
I used this technique once before with pretty good results for repairing covering over open framework.
Here are a couple pics of the original damage and a shot where I have made a couple cuts to peel back the covering and taped it out of the way.
I cut a couple strips of covering material from scraps that are about a 1/2" wide.
So that I could handle the strip of material and get it where I needed it without tearing more stuff up…
I put a piece of doubled over tape (could use double sided tape) on the end of a popsicle stick and stuck the strip to it with the **glue side up**. Using my trim solvent and a Q-tip, I wetted just the end of the strip that would go under one side of the covering on the plane. Then using the popsicle stick I slid the strip under the existing covering and held it while rubbing the top covering material onto it a bit.
Here you can see where I have two strips **glue side up** stuck to the underside of the covering on one side.
Then – one at a time I wet the other end of the strips with trim solvent and stretched them as much as I could and set them to the underside of the covering
I don’t have pictures of it, but ultimately the tabs of original covering material, that I had taped out of the way, were cut off just leaving the hole with two stitches across.
Then I cut a top patch in the usual manner, then a patch of gold to blend the trim with the black trim to finish it off. It can still be seen when you are close enough, but all in all the repair turned out pretty good and I got more practice for the time I need to do this on a plane that I want to look good…
It is hard for me to explain--- but this helps a lot on open framework patch jobs. Once you put the patch on the top - these stitches will help keep the covering from doing funny things under heat and will help prevent the repair from pulling apart when you try to shrink. The pictures will tell most of the story. Sorry, the lighting was terrible. But I reckon these will get the point across.
I used this technique once before with pretty good results for repairing covering over open framework.
Here are a couple pics of the original damage and a shot where I have made a couple cuts to peel back the covering and taped it out of the way.
I cut a couple strips of covering material from scraps that are about a 1/2" wide.
So that I could handle the strip of material and get it where I needed it without tearing more stuff up…
I put a piece of doubled over tape (could use double sided tape) on the end of a popsicle stick and stuck the strip to it with the **glue side up**. Using my trim solvent and a Q-tip, I wetted just the end of the strip that would go under one side of the covering on the plane. Then using the popsicle stick I slid the strip under the existing covering and held it while rubbing the top covering material onto it a bit.
Here you can see where I have two strips **glue side up** stuck to the underside of the covering on one side.
Then – one at a time I wet the other end of the strips with trim solvent and stretched them as much as I could and set them to the underside of the covering
I don’t have pictures of it, but ultimately the tabs of original covering material, that I had taped out of the way, were cut off just leaving the hole with two stitches across.
Then I cut a top patch in the usual manner, then a patch of gold to blend the trim with the black trim to finish it off. It can still be seen when you are close enough, but all in all the repair turned out pretty good and I got more practice for the time I need to do this on a plane that I want to look good…
Last edited by RICKSTUBBZ; 01-10-2016 at 07:46 AM.
#1091
That's an interesting process. I have never seen that before. I have seen some funky things happening with some of the patches I've done. Will keep this in mind next time. Thanks for sharing.
#1093
Thread Starter
Another Prop Test
A while back DaddyO57 gave me a couple of props to try out on my ST40 powered uproar. One of which is the APC 12.25X3.75 which I have been wanting to give a try and never got around to it.
This past Sunday I had the chance to do some more static prop test on the ST40 that is bolted to the red uproar. I also did a flight test with the APC 12.25X3.75 The pictures are of the old bird and engine---the rig to measure thrust---the props in the order they were tested---and a screen grab of the test sheet
Recently I had to by a new digital fish scale because the one I had quit working. On this test I had three props that had been tested before. Even though the RPM is almost the same on this test versus previous test – The thrust numbers are a little higher this time. So I weighed the plane and the weight of the plane looks to be 3 ounces or so more with the new scale. So, when comparing old test that I have posted a 3 ounce adjustment would be needed.
Anyway for comparing these props to each other none of that matters…As a reminder these numbers are from home brew fuel with no nitro - Just Methanol at 82% and Sig castor at 18%
My go to prop on this engine/plane is the 11X6 for all around performance.
Of the 11X6, I tested four new Turnigy wood props, one Hobby King APC Style, a Zinger, two APC’s, and a Turnigy “C”. Pretty much all of them were in the same RPM and thrust range, with the APC and Zinger props pulling a little more thrust.
The 10X6 Master Airscrew wood prop pulled about the same thrust as the 11X6 props but at an extra 1000 or so RPM (and more noise).
One surprise was the Turnigy “C” which is a Cherry wood with big round blades. It pulled pretty good thrust at a 1000 RPM lower.
With all that said, the one I really wanted to check out and did fly is the APC 12.25X3.75. It spun up a bit more and even unloaded a little more in the air. The thrust on that thing was great. 5lb 12oz of thrust on a 3lb 12oz airplane can be a lot of fun. I still could not get this thing to hover. But it was fun to fly with that prop.
I have no way to measure speed but the calculated/theoretical speeds at full throttle are:
12.25X3.75 at 11200 = 40mph
11X6_ _ _at _10800 = 61mph
10X6_ _ _at _11750 = 66mph
9X8 _ _ _at _12600 = 95mph
Of coarse this calculation doesn’t include the unloading of the prop/engine once in the air and at speed and it does not account for “slip” or inefficiency of the prop.
This past Sunday I had the chance to do some more static prop test on the ST40 that is bolted to the red uproar. I also did a flight test with the APC 12.25X3.75 The pictures are of the old bird and engine---the rig to measure thrust---the props in the order they were tested---and a screen grab of the test sheet
Recently I had to by a new digital fish scale because the one I had quit working. On this test I had three props that had been tested before. Even though the RPM is almost the same on this test versus previous test – The thrust numbers are a little higher this time. So I weighed the plane and the weight of the plane looks to be 3 ounces or so more with the new scale. So, when comparing old test that I have posted a 3 ounce adjustment would be needed.
Anyway for comparing these props to each other none of that matters…As a reminder these numbers are from home brew fuel with no nitro - Just Methanol at 82% and Sig castor at 18%
My go to prop on this engine/plane is the 11X6 for all around performance.
Of the 11X6, I tested four new Turnigy wood props, one Hobby King APC Style, a Zinger, two APC’s, and a Turnigy “C”. Pretty much all of them were in the same RPM and thrust range, with the APC and Zinger props pulling a little more thrust.
The 10X6 Master Airscrew wood prop pulled about the same thrust as the 11X6 props but at an extra 1000 or so RPM (and more noise).
One surprise was the Turnigy “C” which is a Cherry wood with big round blades. It pulled pretty good thrust at a 1000 RPM lower.
With all that said, the one I really wanted to check out and did fly is the APC 12.25X3.75. It spun up a bit more and even unloaded a little more in the air. The thrust on that thing was great. 5lb 12oz of thrust on a 3lb 12oz airplane can be a lot of fun. I still could not get this thing to hover. But it was fun to fly with that prop.
I have no way to measure speed but the calculated/theoretical speeds at full throttle are:
12.25X3.75 at 11200 = 40mph
11X6_ _ _at _10800 = 61mph
10X6_ _ _at _11750 = 66mph
9X8 _ _ _at _12600 = 95mph
Of coarse this calculation doesn’t include the unloading of the prop/engine once in the air and at speed and it does not account for “slip” or inefficiency of the prop.
Last edited by RICKSTUBBZ; 02-10-2016 at 04:29 AM.
#1098
Thread Starter
"Uproar 120" questions
Is your electric version of the Uproar 40 still hanging in there?
I like what you have done on the “120” to keep the weight down. That thing is so clean cut it looks like a high dollar routed kit!
That Evolution engine ought to be great for that project.
Based on my experience with my WildStik 120 the 70” should be a blast to fly. I ran an ST90 on that plane (WildStik ) and it was a blast. Admittedly short on power compared to full blown 3D but at nine pounds it was a blast to fly. The ST90 would hover it but had no pull out power.
I have a couple questions for you about the “Uproar 120”:
What material, diameter and length are you using for a wing joiner?
What canopy are you using?
Lastly ---- ribs/airfoil…..did you scale up the 40 size or did you use a different airfoil.
#1099
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Thanks for all the comments,
i have a cnc cnc router which is how I cut it, the airfoil I basically scaled up the 40, but shrunk the height a little. I also made the fuse a little taller. I thought it looked better
The joiner is aluminum.
I did reduce the elevator and aileron chord, it scaled up to almost 5", I reduced them to 3"
the canopy is from sig, 14" I believe
hopefully it will work, I think it won't be a speed demon, which is what I am hoping for. The electric is ready for spring, should have it covered in a week or so, we still have 2' of snow on the ground. So I'm not rushing it.
i have a cnc cnc router which is how I cut it, the airfoil I basically scaled up the 40, but shrunk the height a little. I also made the fuse a little taller. I thought it looked better
The joiner is aluminum.
I did reduce the elevator and aileron chord, it scaled up to almost 5", I reduced them to 3"
the canopy is from sig, 14" I believe
hopefully it will work, I think it won't be a speed demon, which is what I am hoping for. The electric is ready for spring, should have it covered in a week or so, we still have 2' of snow on the ground. So I'm not rushing it.
Last edited by nh4clo4; 02-11-2016 at 06:01 PM.
#1100