bryris

I need some of those connectors that connect a control rod to the "top" of the servo arm. You push it into the arm, then route the push rod through a hole and tighten down a screw. It allows the control rod to not bind against servo arm itself during rotation.

What are these called?

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

E-Z connectors...

Du-Bro makes them, Great Planes...Sullivan might.

Use blue thread locker on the screw securing the pushrod

Deadeye

Is it [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFPW8&P=0]ball links?[/link]

bryris

What is the best way to connect a threaded rod (like those that come with the semi flex pushrod systems) to a servo arm? Just a standard clevis? I got a four armed servo arm and cut off 3 of them so I only had one out there so the others didn't bind. It might work, has yet to be seen.

Also, the exiting side of the control rod comes out of the fuse at a slight angle and the control horn is parallel with the fuse. I don't think the angle will cause much problem. However, what is the "correct" fix for this issue? The push rod I am using has a 4-40 threaded rod inside it (standard GP rod kit). Should I bend the rod a bit? There is only 2 or 3 inches from the fuse exit hole to the control horn. Not much room to work with.

Augie11

Yes, a standard clevis can be used to connect a threaded rod to a servo arm. Make sure to use a piece of fuel tubing to secure the clevis.

As for the angle, yes, you can bend a control rod to eliminate the stress caused. It needs to be a solid rod, not a threaded rod. Trying to bend a threaded rod will cause it to crack. If you do bend the rod, bend it first at an angle and then again back so that the rod 'jogs' to the control horn but is actually moving straight. That may sound complicated but it isn't. Also, try never to bend a rod more than 45 degrees. You can also try using a ball link connector to the control horn

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

These:

outdoorhunting

Connecter thingy !!

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

E-Z connectors should be avoided on any control other than throttles. They can and do become disconnected from servo arms. The best way is to have a Z- bend at the servo horn and then a threaded clevis at the control horn on the control surface itself. The ball links pictured are also a good option at the surface and can eliminate binding.

ccaamm1

dont use an ez connector on an elevator no matter what.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You CAN (and I DO) use EZ connectors on control surfaces.

I much prefer them to Z or L bends.

However, you MUST use them properly.

First, use the metal retainer to join them to the servo are, not the plastic one.

Second, add a drop of thread lock to the set screw.

Third, hold the pushrod or the connector body with a pair of pliers while tightening and make the set screw good and tight.

I have used them for over 20 years and never had a failure in planes up to 120 size

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

To each their own. I could find many instances within the AMA rule book where they are specifically not allowed. Not good for competition, not good for my sport plane either. It is not like they are easier anyway, compared to a Z bend, but that has been my experience. All you need is a good pair of needle nose pliars.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Well, I just finished reviewing the new P-51 Bluenose by Hangar 9. this is a 60-size plane with a Saito 125 up front.

Here is a pic of the radio compartment.

Ihave no worries

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Lots of opportunity to fail there.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

It just goes to show you my confidence in these things.

When I am doing a review, I am responsible for the completion of that review, which includes performing several flights and shooting pictures and video of some of those flights.

If the plane crashes, I am still responsible to get that review done (even if it means buying a new plane out of my own pocket), so I never take unnecessary chances until the pics and video are complete.

But I have used these things for over 20 years and never had a failure. If used properly, they are as good as any other connection.

jaka

Hi!
Problem with Ez connectors is the needed play....
If there is not enough play between the servo arm and the Ez connector the EZ connector will bind. If there is play, it is very easy to get too much play ...and if soo you get a tilting movement of the EZ connector which render in more play at the flying surface.

That's why a Z bend or a metal/plastic clevis is better!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

There is no play.

The metal keeper holds the connector snug to the servo arm. The connector easily rotates against the plastic exactly the same as they way that a ball link rotates against its plastic cup - no play there either.

I'm sorry, but every argument I have heard against EZ Connectors over the years points to one of two things:

1 - Someone installed them carelessly and instead of blaming themselves they blame the connector

or

2 - Someone heard THAT person's story and took it for gospel

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

When doing a review you should use all of the supplied hardware. Especially since it is notoriously junk with the ARF's. It is getting better though. I am not doing reviews and I am flying competition aircraft worth several thousands of dollars. Like I said, to each thier own, I will not use them. Better safe than sorry and a Z bend is free and fail safe.

Rodney

Unless you can tolerate a lot of slop and wear, steer away from Z-bends. They are notorious for wallowing out the holes in the servo arms or horns and eventually contributing to slop and possible source for flutter. Now there are devices that will help a simple L bend instead of the sloppy Z-bend that keep the bend area from wallowing out the holes as it spaces the bend area away from the holes and holds the wear down. The short story, Z-bends for anything but crude controls is not a good choice.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

As a rule, I always use the supplied hardware - even if it's junk. I would rather have the plane I am reviewing crash than yours. The only times that I don't use what is supplied is when it is so bad that it's dangerous (And then I say so in the review) or in a case like this, where the supplied hardware is a well accepted method, but for some reason I choose to do it differently - and again, I say what I did and why.

In this case, putting an "L" or "Z" bend in the wire would mean having to remove the nylon clevis on the control surface should I ever need to remove the pushrod, so I chose to use the EZ connector to avoid trapping the pushrod at that end.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Model aviation has a fabulous article this month on the preservation of your aircraft. It is authored by the owner of Don's hobbies and has some very valuable info. Mainly it touches on how we "think" about our airplanes and the philosophy behind how and why we choose to set them up a certain way. The article is very relevant to the discussion here.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, I know. I read it.

The way I see it is, if you have nothing better to do with your time, you can spend an inordinate amount of it making sure that that you have done everything possible to take the fun out of a hobby.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Worth while to hear again- IMO.

Brian

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Not really, because this complaint about z bends is not accurate. If bent properly, and the hole is sized correctly in the servo horn, this will not be any more of an issue than any other type of connector, other than maybe a ball link.
Regardless, I very much enjoyed the article as it was accurate in that poor set up techniques get to be SOP and accepted as acceptable when they are not. Especially with new pilots. As a flight instructor, I see this often. Just because the model comes with the hardware and you are instructed to use it, does not mean that you should. Imagine if full scale aircraft manufacturers skimped on control surface terminations?

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

If your happy with your installation, more power to you. [8D]

I certainly would not tell someone to change something that they know works, particularly when they are experienced pilots.

Brian

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I believe the key to your statement lays in your words: "If bent properly..." I don't hear Rodney saying Z Bends are intrinsically a bad thing. I do hear him saying, in his comment, that they are commonly bent poorly and thus are "notoriuosly" wallowing out holes and creating slop. Ths method tends to be inconsistant accross the board. This is what I have seen, and can confirm his statement through experience.

None-the-less, I prefer EZ connectors or swivel ball links.

Brian