Giant scale B26 Marauder 80" span
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Giant scale B26 Marauder 80" span
I am starting a build of my giant scale B26 Marauder. This build will use a new construction technique that allows for fast build model with very scale lines.
The stats are:
- 80 in wingspan
- AUW between 11 and 12 lbs.
- Can be built for glow or electric power. I am going for electric.
Here is how it comes out of the box.
The frame consists of 11 major parts already shaped. Some small amount of sanding is required mostly around the nose and the nacelles.
The kit comes with all necessary plastic parts - the gunner turrets, the canopy and the cowls, etc.
More details at http://www.wowplanes.com
The stats are:
- 80 in wingspan
- AUW between 11 and 12 lbs.
- Can be built for glow or electric power. I am going for electric.
Here is how it comes out of the box.
The frame consists of 11 major parts already shaped. Some small amount of sanding is required mostly around the nose and the nacelles.
The kit comes with all necessary plastic parts - the gunner turrets, the canopy and the cowls, etc.
More details at http://www.wowplanes.com
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
I plan on finishing the model to look like this full sized one. The "Funny Bunny" of the 454th Bomber Squadron.
It will have air retracts and nav lights. I will also plan on landing lights synch'ed with the retracts.
Fahim
It will have air retracts and nav lights. I will also plan on landing lights synch'ed with the retracts.
Fahim
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
I will start with the fuselage. The fuselage is made from 3 parts that come pre-shaped and hollow, and the nose cone that is solid. The mid fuselage section has to be prepped as shown before gluing the whole fuselage together. These are glued end-to-end using the alignment marks provided on each part.
The pictures and the annotation within provide more description.
The pictures and the annotation within provide more description.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
The fuselage sections have been prepped. I assembled the 4 sections next and sanded the nose cone and canopy fit.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
The fuselage is essentially done, at least for the time being. I started on the wing. The wing consists of 3 panels and 3 spars. Two of the spars go from nacelle to nacelle and the third from tip to tip.
Here are picture of my progress.
Here are picture of my progress.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
Hi Gray Beard,
Thank you.
The kit is designed for either glow or electric. This particular build I am doing here will be electric.
If built glow, the recomended engine is 2 x size 40 to 46.
If electric, 2 x AXI4130/16 or equivalent on 6 cell Lipo.
I am glad to hear you like the build. It gets even better when we get to the finish stages. Stay tuned.
Fahim
Thank you.
The kit is designed for either glow or electric. This particular build I am doing here will be electric.
If built glow, the recomended engine is 2 x size 40 to 46.
If electric, 2 x AXI4130/16 or equivalent on 6 cell Lipo.
I am glad to hear you like the build. It gets even better when we get to the finish stages. Stay tuned.
Fahim
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
I completed the wing at least for now. The wing is removable, held in place with 2 dowels at the LE and 2 screws at the TE that screw into 2 blind nuts located in the fuselage.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
I did the vert stab abd mounted the tail on to the fuselage. The frame is now essentially complete and I can move on to the finishing stage next.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
The finishing stage consists of 3 steps and is intended to transform the look, feel, and strength of the model. No one will be able to tell it was made from foam when we are done and it will be just as strong as a glassed balsa model.
The first step is to fill all joints, build fillets where necessary, and smooth the surface of the foam. For that I use a mixture of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, mixed in a 1:1 ratio with lightweight spackle, and a few drops of white glue. I mix water until I have a paste and use that for filling and fillet building. Then I water the mixture down some more and paint the whole surface with it. This fills in all the tiny divots that are present on the foam surface. After drying I sand off most of the mixture and end up with a very smooth surface. If necessary, I spot spackle areas that were missed.
The first step is to fill all joints, build fillets where necessary, and smooth the surface of the foam. For that I use a mixture of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, mixed in a 1:1 ratio with lightweight spackle, and a few drops of white glue. I mix water until I have a paste and use that for filling and fillet building. Then I water the mixture down some more and paint the whole surface with it. This fills in all the tiny divots that are present on the foam surface. After drying I sand off most of the mixture and end up with a very smooth surface. If necessary, I spot spackle areas that were missed.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
At this stage, the foam surface is very smooth, but it is still soft. In the next step we will harden the surface using Liquid Sheet.
I have applied one coat of household latex primer to the whole model. The purpose is to seal the putty/spackle mixture and isolate it from LSll.
Since LSll requires a dry surface, I will set the model aside in a dry place overnight.
I have applied one coat of household latex primer to the whole model. The purpose is to seal the putty/spackle mixture and isolate it from LSll.
Since LSll requires a dry surface, I will set the model aside in a dry place overnight.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
The model's surface was nice and dry so I started application of Liquid Sheet - LSll
The idea of this step is to:
- harden the foam surface
- make it dent & ding resistant
- make it resistant to solvent paints that normally would dissolve foam
- make it resistant to nitro fuel
LSll is a two part liquid mixed in 1:1 ratio and brushed on with a throw away foam brush. Multiple coats can be applied every 20 minutes to build up thickness and strength. It cures in 1 hour and is paintable in 24 hours. It cures as a hard glossy plastic surface that does not require sanding if done properly, except in case of drips, it can be easily sanded. It is washable with soap and water.
To avoid drips on round objects like the fuselage, I insert a dowel rod through the fuselage, and rotate it for the first 10 or 15 min after application. Thin parts like the tail, the control surfaces and wing should be covered on both sides within 1 or 2 hours to avoid bowing.
Here are some shots of the finished job. After this stage the model no longer looks or feels like foam.
The idea of this step is to:
- harden the foam surface
- make it dent & ding resistant
- make it resistant to solvent paints that normally would dissolve foam
- make it resistant to nitro fuel
LSll is a two part liquid mixed in 1:1 ratio and brushed on with a throw away foam brush. Multiple coats can be applied every 20 minutes to build up thickness and strength. It cures in 1 hour and is paintable in 24 hours. It cures as a hard glossy plastic surface that does not require sanding if done properly, except in case of drips, it can be easily sanded. It is washable with soap and water.
To avoid drips on round objects like the fuselage, I insert a dowel rod through the fuselage, and rotate it for the first 10 or 15 min after application. Thin parts like the tail, the control surfaces and wing should be covered on both sides within 1 or 2 hours to avoid bowing.
Here are some shots of the finished job. After this stage the model no longer looks or feels like foam.
#17
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
Fahim, would you please tell us more about the LSII, is it a two part epoxy or something new, I have never heard the the name before. This looks like a product a lot of us would like to try, I know I would like some more info on it. Is it a heavy product, can it be used in a spray gun.
Gene
Gene
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
LS2 is not an epoxy, although it comes as a 2 part liquid that is mixed 1:1
It can be applied in thin coats every 20 minutes, and that reduces the chance of drips or runs. It generates no heat. However, if you happen to get a drip or two, it sands easily.
It cures in about 1 hour and can be handled then. However, if kept in a sealed container, it will not cure for several hours giving you plenty of work time. Sanding and painting should be deffered for 24 hours. It forms a hard, very glossy, plastic shell over the model, that is spray paint solvent resistant, and nitro fuel resistant. It adds stiffness, strength, and makes the model dent resistant and washable. It can also be used on balsa sheeted models in place of FG cloth and epoxy, and makes the balsa very strong.
It is no more heavier than FG cloth and epoxy, and is much easier to apply.
Reason why you may not have heard about it is that I came up with it about a year ago, and have refined it to the second gen LS2. I have a patent and trade mark on it. More and more modellers are discovering it. I suggest you get one and try it on scrap foam or balsa to see how good it is.
For more info please click on the following link. Then click on the Instruction manual, then watch the video tutorial.
http://www.wowplanes.com/product_inf...roducts_id=130
I will be glad to answer any questions.
It can be applied in thin coats every 20 minutes, and that reduces the chance of drips or runs. It generates no heat. However, if you happen to get a drip or two, it sands easily.
It cures in about 1 hour and can be handled then. However, if kept in a sealed container, it will not cure for several hours giving you plenty of work time. Sanding and painting should be deffered for 24 hours. It forms a hard, very glossy, plastic shell over the model, that is spray paint solvent resistant, and nitro fuel resistant. It adds stiffness, strength, and makes the model dent resistant and washable. It can also be used on balsa sheeted models in place of FG cloth and epoxy, and makes the balsa very strong.
It is no more heavier than FG cloth and epoxy, and is much easier to apply.
Reason why you may not have heard about it is that I came up with it about a year ago, and have refined it to the second gen LS2. I have a patent and trade mark on it. More and more modellers are discovering it. I suggest you get one and try it on scrap foam or balsa to see how good it is.
For more info please click on the following link. Then click on the Instruction manual, then watch the video tutorial.
http://www.wowplanes.com/product_inf...roducts_id=130
I will be glad to answer any questions.
#19
My Feedback: (3)
RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Fahim, would you please tell us more about the LSII, is it a two part epoxy or something new, I have never heard the the name before. This looks like a product a lot of us would like to try, I know I would like some more info on it. Is it a heavy product, can it be used in a spray gun.
Gene
Fahim, would you please tell us more about the LSII, is it a two part epoxy or something new, I have never heard the the name before. This looks like a product a lot of us would like to try, I know I would like some more info on it. Is it a heavy product, can it be used in a spray gun.
Gene
Best wishes,
Dave Olson
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
After allowing the LS2 to cure for 24 hours, I sprayed primer and cleaned up some uneven spots. Then I mounted the plastics and added panel lines with drafting tape.
Here is a picture of the plastic parts that come with the kit and my progress.
Fahim
Here is a picture of the plastic parts that come with the kit and my progress.
Fahim
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
Well its time to start thinking of painting this beast. I have decided to go for the Funny Bunny full scale plane. Don't expect me to copy every scratch, dent, and paint chip. Weathering can always be done later, even after the model has been flown. So I will do as much as is necessary for it to look close enough and then get it ready for flight.
Here is a picture of the real plane, close up of the nose art, and details of the engine. I started on the cowls and dummy engines.
Each cowl is made up of 4 parts - the front half, the rear half, and two air intakes. The pictures below show the assembly sequence.
Here is a picture of the real plane, close up of the nose art, and details of the engine. I started on the cowls and dummy engines.
Each cowl is made up of 4 parts - the front half, the rear half, and two air intakes. The pictures below show the assembly sequence.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
After assembling the cowls, I painted them and added some detail. Here is a comparison of the real P&W engine and my handiwork.
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
I installed the hardware except for the retracts. Here are some pictures of how I did it. This is not the only way to do it. My models allow the builder to use his/her preferred ways.
Tomorrow I plan on installing the retracts and balancing the model, then we can be ready for flight.
Fahim
Tomorrow I plan on installing the retracts and balancing the model, then we can be ready for flight.
Fahim
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RE: Giant scale B26 Marauder 80
The retracts are installed and all systems have been bench tested. She is ready for flight. I will post pictures and a video soon.
Meanwhile here are some pictures of the ground tests.
Meanwhile here are some pictures of the ground tests.