heritageman

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Whew! really warm today, and less winds than usual so I decided to try painting the white top coat on the fuselage, control surfaces, and wheel pants. Everything looks really good and smooth. Got a little P.O.ed when spaying the rudder and it came undone from the jig set-up ,and fell down into the grass. Waited till the paint flash dried on top and then carefully pulled off grass. I'll wait now and sand and spray it alone with the new cowl I purchased from fiberglass specialties. I'm posting a few photo's that I took when everything was back inside the garage,(HOT HOUSE) where it will set and cure for a few days.

heritageman

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Oops! here's the photo's

SDCrashmaster

What was your reasoning for not applying the corrugations to the control surfaces?
Looks great. Nice paint job.

heritageman

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SDCrashmaster, I was planning on glueing them on ,and then after all the detail painting I will clear coat over everything. Thanks for the compliment.

heritageman

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Thought I would mount the wheels, and wings to get a picture of how everything looking so far.

heritageman

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Went to mount the cowl and it was 3/8 inch longer on front. So now instead of sanding the back edge, I'm gonna add 3/8 inch plywood block behind the motor mounts standouts hoping this should help with weight distribution.

SDCrashmaster

Your window tinting looks great. What method, paint or dye?
If dye, how 'bout a step-by-step of how you achieved that tint.
You're going to have to be very careful gluing on the corrugations so as not to ruin your paint job.
The corrugations could have benefitted from being under primer and paint. This would have filled in the the edges and smoothed things out a bit.
Oh well. I just think they add so much to the model from a scale standpoint.

Riverview

heritageman I used the same Fiberglass Specialties cowl on my plane and it fit perfectly. The plans show that the back of the prop hub should be 159mm from the original firewall. I have installed a Saito 100 Twin in my plane and I used 4 of the 50mm spacers from Horizon. I then made up the difference with a wood extension epoxied to the original firewall. I ended up exactly 159mm from the firewall to the hub and when I placed the fiberglass cowl, the prop fit perfectly in front of the cowl Did you check your dimension for mounting your engine. If it is, then maybe your cowl is not correct.

heritageman

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Worked on changing the motor mount today. I switched the stock mount for the du-bro anti vibration aluminum mounts. After plugging the stock holes , had to carefully measure and drill holes for the new mounts. Cut the opening for the prop, and opening under prop for the inverted os91fs. Wondering if I should open up the areas on both sides of the prop. Once the plywood spacers set up with the wood glue overnite I should have every thing in place tomorrow. About the windows, I dyed them with a formula of royal blue & black that I found in one of the builds on here.

heritageman

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Has anyone used the inverted pitts muffler on a os91fs on this plane. I been wondering which is the better way to exit the cowl. I'm thinking of osing the du-bro exhaust ext. and dropping straightdown through the cowl instead of blocking the two air outlets. Any ideas or which set up do you use?

SDCrashmaster

I used the Slimline Pitts-style muffler with an OS .91 FS.
You'll have to grind on the muffler and your motor mount a little. Not a big deal really.
It will dump directly onto your nosewheel pant though.

heritageman

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Finally got out of the garage and into my portable building I had built. Took me awhile to set it up for working on my planes. It's nice to work in a air conditioned workspace. Been sanding around the corrugated surfaces and getting ready to finish spraying.

smart1

looks good! makes me excited to have one in a box waiting downstairs, i'll have to tint the windows too.

Riverview

Heritageman, You have a really nice work place. Bet it makes a great doghouse !!! I really like the stand you have for the plane. Did you use 3/4 or 1" schedule 40 pipe? I put a Saito 100 twin in my 182 so I open both sides for cooling. I had heard from others that you should only open the cowl in front of the cylinder to get as much air over the cylinder as you can. Opening other holes in the cowl lets air bypass around the cylinder. The Saito twin has two flex exhaust pipes that act as mufflers. Hope it works OK as I have not run the engine yet.

heritageman

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Riverview, the stand is made with 3/4" pvc. The windows were tinted with a solution of black and royal blue rit brand dye. I had read about it somewhere here on one of these forums.

heritageman

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Anyone know where I can buy a full body pilot for my cessna ?

ThomasD59

wow Heritageman...outstanding work thus far.  I started on this kit 10 years ago, nearly finished the skeleton and the sheeting, then life happened.  I'm excited to get back into mine.  I'm also going to drop in an OS91...got the fiberglass cowl and the robart nosewheel.  I like your tint work.  There's a finished one for sale at my LHS, but it's got quite a few hours on it.  You've set the bar pretty high with your glassing and painting skills. 

heritageman

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Thanks for the comp. Thomas.

ThomasD59

check out this site...kinda $pendy though.

http://www.rcscaleallcomposite.com/fullbodypilot.htm

bcatone

Very nice job..I hope mine turns out half as well. Just a quick glance as the plans and looking at the landing gear brings a question to my mind..I have always been leary of balsa spars. I know the full sheeting probably negates the need for hardwood outer spars but for peace of mind anyone see anyreason not to use hardwood.I'm using a 125 satio but will be flying scale .Also reference the landing gear let me preface this with the knowledge that smooth landing is key to preserving the landing gear, but in most kits the landing gear seems to be soft aluminum or at least not tempered. With the weight of this plane and the un-tempered gear I can see myself having to rebend the gear at times..I am sure there is no aftermarket gear that is tempered for this plane. Any sugesstions. I have already ordered glass cowl and pants.

crash bandicoute

hi all. i thought i would chime in for a quick note on the polycrylic post. i finished a set of GP .40 size floats and used the polycrylic glass approach for the covering. first i got the arosol can of it, just to coat them for the beginning to more or less seal them. then i used 1/2 oz. cloth laid over them and painted on the quart stuff (same brand), then another layer, sanding between. after the 3rd layer and sanding, i primed them and painted with krylon and clear coated with model masters clear coat laquer and wet sanded. i run glow motors, so the paint with the glow fuel compatibility is an issue, but the laquer protects well enough. i just wipe them down after flying on them. the polycrylic stuff works awesome, and i think saves a little more weight than the epoxy finish. wish i had pics of them. your plane looks great though. much better paint job than i could do. i still get the orange peel look.

ThomasD59

I think any time your landing gear bends (due to a hard landing) it's a good thing.  I'd rather have my "soft" aluminum gear absorbing the shock than transferring that force to another more rigid or brittle part of the plane.  Just my .02

where do you get glass pants?  I've got the cowl...

heritageman

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Thomas, I don't have fiberglass wheel pants on this cessna. I did glass theme myself. The cowl came from fiberglass specialties and they have the wheel pants.

ThomasD59

thanks HM...keep us posted. 

heritageman

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I have a question maybe some of you will be able to help me with. Is it to hot to mount the throttle servo in the cowl of this cessna skylane. These servo locations leave a lot to be desired plus it will keep me from having to add a pound of weight up front.