DaveB

This will be my second attempt at building the "Astro-Hog". My first "Hog", while a fine looking airplane, was a handful to fly. As a matter of fact, I am still trying to figure out what went wrong. Having said that, I have been kit building and flying RC planes for more than 20 years and my first "Hog" was the first plane I build that had a problem.

This time, I will record each step along the way and I encourage any comments and especially those that point out any errors I may make.

I will be building the "Hog" as described in the plans as a tail dragger, except the landing gear will be 3/16" as opposed to the 5/32" as called for in the plan.

Following the instruction book (for the most part), here we go!

Pic 1 illustrates the top and bottom wing spars with the doublers and the larger landing gear blocks required to accomodate the 3/16" music wire. I ordered larger blocks from SIG when I ordered the "Hog". The larger blocks are 1"x6"x1/2" compared to the supplied L.G. blocks measuring 3/4"x6-1/4"x3/8". O.K., so I glued a 1"x1/4" piece of hardwood on the ends of the new blocks the achieve the same length. This will allow installing the new, larger L.G. blocks without moving the ribs.

Pic 2 illustrates the enlargement of the ply doublers to accomodate the larger L.G. blocks.

O.K., that's enough for tonight.

DaveB

DaveB

The pics didn't upload, so I will try again.

DaveB

GhostRider32

Subscribed.

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

I'm in, I've got an Astro Hog kit in the closet...

dignlivn

Hey Dave,


I built mine with the stock gear blocks in the wing
as a back up. I used a Dubro gear for my tail dragger.

Take your time, it's worth it.

Bob

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If your first was a handful to fly, maybe the incidence between the two wings was off?

wattmeter

I'm in the process of building one now

DaveB

A little more work today on the "Hog". Started building the left wing. Finished the doublers and glued same to the W2 ribs. Also doublers on W5 ribs. Glued ribs W1 through W5 to the top and bottom spars. There was a little play in all the notches where they were attached to the spars. I don't know whether the spars are a little small or the notches were a little large. I would have been happier with a snug fit. After glueing, all ribs seemed securely fastened.

As far as glue goes, I will be using "Tite-Bond" or similar for most applications. Epoxy where appropriate, but I will try to avoid CA glue as it gives me respiratory problems when I use it for more than just a drop or two.

Also, I will be using a single servo in the center of wing as designed and also will build the 12 degree dihedral as called for in the plan. I still haven't decided the power, although I am leaning to installing the FS-70 4 stroke that was in (and still is) my first "Hog".

Company coming tomorrow, so no building until later in the week.

DaveB

DGUY

My Feedback: (9)

I have one in the closet back home and I am looking forward to watching while here in Afghanistan.

clpahodges

My Feedback: (3)

Subscribed. I have wanted an Astro Hog for a long time. Hope to build one in the not too distant future.

Bill Hodges

spanishflyer

Hello DaveB

I´ve built an Astro, and is a pleasure to fly, I bought another one for the future!
I installed the stock landing gear as taildragger, and works perfect.
With the the OS70 will be perfect, I fly with a YS63 and 13/6 and has more the enought power.
Respect to dihedral, I reduced it to 6º and has no problem in slow landings, and she can roll almost in the axis.

Take care in glueying the wings with the same incidence, and follow the incidences of plans, Engine, stabilicer, and wing. You should have no problem in your flights.

Also I installed 2 servos for ailerons in the same place of single servo, do the box a bit bigger and its done.

Ask you whatever you want!

Good luck in your building!

Carlos

flying pastor

DaveB, it's good to see that you are building a new Astrohog. I'm sure that many will be watching and wishing you good luck, especially after the problem you had with the last one.
All the best.....Chris, UK.

astrohog

My Feedback: (1)

The Hog is about as straight forward a build as you can get. I LOVED mine!! (see my screen-name!) The only mod I did was to take the dihedral out, and I think this is a very worthy mod. This plane was designed in the late '50's or early '60's when all the other gear (radios, servos, engines, etc.) were not up to par with what we have today. You will NOT be disappointed with less dihedral, mine was still about as forgiving as a trainer, yet would roll very axial!

Enjoy your build!

Regards,

Astrohog

GhostRider32

What is the dihedral supposed to be according to the book?

wattmeter

Look at post #8

GhostRider32

Thanks, missed it.

av8djc

My Feedback: (4)

For sure cut the dihedral to 6% and use the two aileron servos. You will not regret it, it will fly better.

richardgerardi

Dave I built one and have had no problmes

richardgerardi

Dave sorry my first reply was short. At work. Anyways, I built exactly as per the plan including the dihedral at 12 degrees if I remember correctly. I have a Saito 82 on it and flys pretty well. It is a slow flier and the rolls are huge. Maybe you did not use the correct CG on it? It may have been heavier than intended? just some toughts.

medjay

nice thread Dave, good luck.
.

i will follow your progress

here is a picture of my ultra sport (another good flyer)

john o

DaveB

A little more progress on the "Hog.

Worth mentioning, if using "Titebond" glue or similar, when glueing the laminated wingtip bow, make sure the laminates are clamped or weighted down in such a way the laminate is secure. I have found that when using "Titebond" the laminates will tend to warp a little and separate while the glue is curing. Good clamping or weighting will prevent this from happening.

Another thing I did was to double the T.E. by glueing 1/4" x 3/8" x 2" pieces of balsa to the front of the trailing edge piece. This will provide a little more glueing surfaces for the aileron hinges. I thought the 1/4" trailing edge needed a little more "meat" to accomodate the hinges.

If you are building the "Hog" as a tail dragger and plan to install the gear in the wing, you may want to skip ahead in the instructions and install the landing gear blocks before glueing the bottom edge sheeting. It's easier to cut the slot for the landing gear block before glueing the sheeting to the ribs and spars. Also, because I installed larger landing gear blocks to accomodate 3/16" music wire, I had to enlarge the notches on the ribs supporting the l.g. blocks and for good measure I added a piece of tri stock for a little extra strength.

Leaving town tomorrow, so the "Hog" will have to wait a few days before I can get back to business.

DaveB

wattmeter

NEED A LITTLE HELP, i'M BUILDING A HOG AT PRESENT . I'm getting ready to sheet the bottom and to top of the fuse. I came across sheets 7-8 3/32 balsa and cut on a wedge,one says fuse leftside,the other the right side.
No place in the manuel does it say anything about sheet 7,8 so do the go on top behind the cockpit of on the front at the firewall.
wattmeter[]

DaveB

Wattmeter,

Sheets 7 & 8 are the right and left fuselage sides respectively. They are to be cut out and then 1/4" sq. balsa stringer are glued to them. Check the instruction book, page 12, Step 4.

DaveB

wattmeter

Boy o boy I guess I had a senor monument...lol The pieces I seen were cut off the sheets for the sides, I seen sheet 7-8 and i thougth I forgot something.
Thanks for the wake -up
wattmeter[X(]

richardgerardi

Hi Dave this is a pic of my Hog. Slow flyer but nice landings. Enjoy