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  1. #101
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    At first I was not sure of CA hinges, they just did not do it for me visually, but after putting together three ARF's, I have gotten down how to install them, they are tight and clean. Not much in the detail department but once the plane is on the runaway, you can’t tell. Now if I slotted slightly larger then the standard cut for CA, am I screwed or can I still use the CA hinge? I started to make the slot larger for plastic hinges, so I am in-between the two right now, go forward with plastic, or turn back to CA?
    TB

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  2. #102
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    If you cut the slot large, I would cut new ones right next to the old ones - or skip it and go with Robarts

    I did two articles on CA Hinges, the first covers the basics, the second is more in depth. They can both be found here:

    http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r.../minnflyer.cfm
    Mike B. AMA# 42400 www.gettingairborne.com
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  3. #103
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

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    When I started my Chipmunk, I had set it up with an OS 46 AX. I know that this is probably the smallest engine you would put in a plane like this. So I thought I might put in an OS 61 FX (I have it on my 60 trainer).Being I already set up the firewall and engine mount for the 46, I would have to re-drill and set the 61, not a big deal. However, if I were to keep the 46, would it be enough power? I like planes to fly scale, mostly, but I do know that you can always throttle down and having reserve power is always good. So do I keep the 46, or retool for the 61?
    TB


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  4. #104
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    TonyBuilder, I would go with the 61FX.

    What you need to keep is the mark on the fire wall for the engine crank shaft axle with any new engine mount you install.

    This kind of mod need to be done correctly means to close the old holes with dowel and epoxy and drill new holes, so maybe it requires to enlarge the holes in that piece of wood to diameter of the holes in the fire wall and put one dowel all along (use also new T nuts).

    An idea is to use GP adjustable 60-120 mount so your new holes will be bigger than the supplied mount which means you will have to add ply wood around that piece of wood on the fire wall but not to add height.

    Another idea is to use GP adjustable 40-70 engine mount like I did but its screws pattern is smaller than the supplied mount, in this case you will have to add thickness to that piece of wood like the problem I got into on post #72 in this thread, in my build its thickness is about 5/8” from the fire wall.
    If you already glued the fire wall and use the GP 40-70 adjustable mount the bolt pattern going to look like images 3, 4 on post #69 - I have grooves for screws in the upper fuse tray.

    I use the GP adjustable mounts because they are cheap and easy to find in most hobby stores and I’m using several during the build because of drilling wrong holes in them, they are even cheaper at hobbyking.com.

    Alex
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  5. #105
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Thanks Alex, I picked up one of the GP adjustable mount, and I will be using the OS 61. I had time today so I got the wing installed, all within 1/32 Next I am sheathing the turtle back, and onto the tail installation. It is coming together. What brand and size fuel tank did you use?
    Thanks for the thread.
    TB

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  6. #106
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    You are welcome TB,
    Fuel tank I'm gonna use is Dubro 14 oz, thinking about it now it might be too big but this is what I had for OS 91FX. you will be better with 12 oz, the problem with big tanks is that you balance the airplane without fuel and than add big enough amount that will make the airplane significantly nose heavy, thats my lesson.

    Alex
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  7. #107
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    I guess it is not to late, but what is the thought about using two servos for the ailerons in place of the system supplied?
    TB

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  8. #108
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    servo per aileron is what I had in mind, I dont like the idea that big opening in the wing center not to mention the bellcrank thing, I have flaps so I'll have just one servo in the center operating them and one servo per aileron in the wing, check my thread how I did it, the servos are lying because if standing they are too high and coming out too much.
    The way MinnFlyer suggested and is done in post #29 by eaglelope is very simple, the way I did it in post #43 is more complex but more elegant, I had these servo trays from thin plywood otherwise I would have done it like MinnFlyer said.
    thing to pay attention is that the screws I plan to hold that servo tray are going into some hard wood like birch I think dont mistake it its not balsa.

    Alex
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  9. #109
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Alex, I see how you are doing yours, and there is one other option, I like the idea of the servo being in the wing and having it attached to the cover. I will have a little work to do being the wing is already completely built, but I haven’t cut in the servos. I also have flaps so just one cut in the wing and a small hole for the servo weirs. Is there any special set up for the servos (weirs), or just extensions for the servos and then a Y as they come out of the wing? I will post some photos of the "after the fact" conversion.
    Thanks.
    TB

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  10. #110
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    TB, for the ailerons servos I was thinking Y harness and extensions but few days ago Somebody told me (after the US60 crash) that he is using ailerons not on a #1 channel but on two channels so if something goes wrong with one of the servos you still can bring it back for a gentle landing, in my radio I can assign any channels so I might go that route. I have pretty long servo extensions 50 cm I think.
    on the other hand three wires coming out of the wing that needs other three wires in the fuse to plug them in is not so easy...
    there is for and against in everything here I guess.
    as for wires running inside the wing I was thinking to hold the with "telephone cord holder" from radio shack or cut off rings from a paper binding spiral (small) or bread bag bands, but not buried without access!

    Alex
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  11. #111
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    So I went home early today, way to hot and muggy in Texas to be working out side. I got the fuel tank installed, and the engine mounted. I went with a one-piece plastic mount. The first one cracked, and the adjustable one stuck out of the frame at the top. So this round one fit like a glove. Two out of the four holes were already lined up, so I only had to drill two new ones, and they were fare away from the existing ones.
    Does this set up for the tank look ok? I have the pressure line (yellow) coming out at the bottom into the muffler, and the fuel line is going strait to the carb. The bottom line is my fill line. I went with the 14 oz tank. My 46 had a 10oz tank, and it kept running out of fuel, so I put a 12 oz in it. Next is to tackle the covering of the front and mounting the tail.
    Progress.
    TB

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  12. #112
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    That looks good to me TB, I like your setup with the rubber bands to secure the tank.

    while its possible with the long fuel lines I practiced removing and installing the fuel tank and the fuel lines - we need them to be long in order to direct them into the holes when installing the tank.

    before sheeting the top of the tank compartment its better to fuel proof with epoxy the bottom of the tank compartment - I did it with epoxy thinned by alcohol using epoxy brushes and heat gun, back of the fire wall is very important to fuel proof top of that compartment is fuel proofed without the tank in place.
    I also did the throttle nyrod before sheeting.

    in post #69 the green thing in the T nuts is candle wax to prevent the epoxy from getting into T nuts threads it also can be done with piece of masking tape ( not to burn the top sheeting balsa) the screws will go though them with ease.

    Its also recommended to some how isolate the tank with foam between the tank and the wood to prevent vibrations I did this with foam tape like this one or similar
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE102&P=7

    on post #69 I did some cage for the battery to be held with rubber bands to the square wood, the battery will be sitting on foam tape.
    the 4-40 T nuts on the sides are for the cowl.

    I think this fuel tank compartment is not an easy step and many things need to be done before we close it, I gave it alot of thought for the right order.
    I like your progress (I'll stop working on yours )and restart working on mine on Tuesday.

    Alex
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  13. #113
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    So I am working on the tail, the rear wheel is giving me some doubts, it looks way to be flimsy, and if it gets damaged it will be hard to replace, and it will get damaged. So I wanted to look into a more substantial tail wheel, and assembly, any ideas? I also changed the way the fuel lines come in, after trying to put it in and out I wanted it to be easier, so I located all the lines strait to the tank threw the firewall, the pressure line will go behind the engine along with the fill line.
    Thanks.
    TB

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  14. #114
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Hi TB this is the step I'm at right now.
    I used this assembly so far and very happy with it http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFV47&P=ML
    you can get it cheaper at http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7335

    I also solder a washer to hold the wheel in place, solder with paper not to solder the wheel as well or to get a GP wheel, the sullivan wheel need to be drilled.

    the assembly comes with two springs that I never use because the airplane is going in circles when taxiing, instead I'm using a piano wire 1/32" to 1/16".
    in the picture is what I intend to do next week, few pieces of plywood need to be added to hold the 4-40 T nuts, there is also a hole in the tail right before the rudder long piece, I intend to close it with two (2)! pieces of ply to get the height so it will be flush with the fuse bottom.
    you need the tail wheel assembly to drill the holes in the tail, the axle of the assembly need to fit the piano wire exit, the red plastic tube (plastic tube like nyrod or heat shrink) will just hold it to the fin, the gap in the tail fairings will be closed with a piece of balsa that will hold the plastic tube with epoxy or canopy glue.

    the order of assembly is first glue the plastic tube then the wire top bent, longer bottom not bent yet, now we know where the hole in the rudder is, we see where the longer un bent bottom meets the tail wheel assembly.
    dont glue the wire in its a spring and if its a bit long you can take it out and reinsert it in case you need just dont over do it, you can put some CA in the fin to harden the hole.

    its much more simple than i described it here [8D]

    Alex
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  15. #115
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    That looks like a better way than the supplied method. I think I am going to go with an independent tail wheel that operates with a push/ pull system. I just do not like the idea of the steering being part of the ruder. I thing GP has one or Dubro. If I wreck it I want to be able to replace it without fussing with the ruder. I am probably doing more work than needed, but I tend to do that.
    TB

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  16. #116
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    I didnt try the pull pull system yet, but from all the tail wheel assemblies the sullivan is the best.
    The tail wheel I never wrecked, the most likely to give up is the main gear so dont use the wheel pants, I also did an alternative LG plywood before the wing with T nuts and tri stocks.
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #3.
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  17. #117
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    I am experimenting with this set up, It all fits, and I can assemble the tail unit and install it after covering, then glue the ruder in place as the final step. I will have to cover the hole at the top where the ruder sits over the fuselage, but I can do this after installation and covering. So I am still thinking this out and doing some dry runs. I will solder the piano weir down into the caller. Worst case I start over.
    TB

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    Fly, fly, fly!!!!

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  18. #118
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Tb it looks nice,
    you might have a lot of epoxy between the tail fairings and the rudder there-you might glue the rod and the rudder...
    the plastic tube to be flush with the fairings and you suppose to insert the rod from above and then hinge the rudder to two hinges and the rod.
    I'm not sure soldering the rod to the bracket is a good idea because you might need to remove the bracket or the rod and it doesnt have to be so precise on the axis.
    Sorry you can open the solder with a soldering iron at home, I dont know about JB weld if you can open it.
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #3.
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  19. #119

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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Over the past 20 years, since Goldberg first came out with the Chip Monk kit, I have built three, all powered with OS 61s. In my opinion they are great kits and fun flyers. I want to built another or even go to an ARF to suport an Super Tiger 91 for power. On past experience the 91 is a little to much for the Goldbert. I personally thought the OS 61 was the right size but guess you can never have to much power so long as balance and weight are ok. Any ideas on one just a little bit biger then the Goldberg? Thanks.

  20. #120
    MinnFlyer's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    An OS 91 4-Stroke is the ideal powerplant [sm=thumbup.gif]
    Mike B. AMA# 42400 www.gettingairborne.com
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  21. #121

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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    This is my second Goldberg Super Chipmunk. I am puting in the .61FX which should be plenty of power to do anything it needs to do. I agree the 91 four stroker would be great for this plane. The first one I built had a .61FSR in it and it flew great.

    On my current build I have the canopy, cowl, and fuel fitting installed.I have all the fuel lines and muffler lines installed. The throttle is installed. Tonight I hope to have the Cowl, wheel pants, and belly pan primed. She is going together great. Got a few pictures.

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    Humilitas occidit superbiam.

  22. #122
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Dragonov3, your plane looks great, very clean and tight. Did you use the stock canopy, or did you get one from FS? I am just a few steps behind you, finishing the fuselage and fine-tuning it before I start to install the servos and engine. Funny thing, last Sunday on my way to the field I was thinking it would be nice to see one of these so I could check out the finished product, well there was a 20 year old GB Chipmunk there, it was battered, but it flew well and I got to check it out.
    TB

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  23. #123

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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    TonyBuilder: The canopy is the one that came with the kit. I used four servo screws to hold it on, I do not like to glue canopies on. What color scheme are you going to do?
    I am going to do the same scheme that I used on my first one. Post some pictures so we can see your build. Thats awesome that you had the oppurtunity to check out an already built one, gives you a chance to see it in action. It has been many years since I have seen a CG chipmunk fly. I am building this plane for my best friend, fortunately for me I will probably be the one to do the maiden. Cant wait to fly one again.

    Alex7403: How is your build going?

    Longislander: Did you finish your Chipmunk? Got any pictures?
    Humilitas occidit superbiam.

  24. #124
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build

    Good looking airplane dragonov3,
    I worked on mine today and here is where I'm at:

    1. The rod of the elevator halves need to be hidden otherwise the oil will creep in, the problem is that the rudder doesnt move on it as an axle = the bar moves up and down a bit,
    as the plan goes it has enough space to move in the tail section piece, I think to put it in a nyrod sleeve and glue it there, your input please how did you solve it?

    2. the tail wheel rod coming out I'm gonna solder in a small piece of brass tube like in the diagram and to it a rod to go in the tail wheel bracket, I can just attach a wheel but it looks flimsy.

    my build goes well, if I keep the same pace I'm gonna sand for covering this weekend.

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    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #3.
    Ya know, a cat is longer from head to tail than from tail to head.

  25. #125
    TonyBuilder's Avatar
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    RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build


    ORIGINAL: dragonov3

    TonyBuilder: The canopy is the one that came with the kit. I used four servo screws to hold it on, I do not like to glue canopies on. What color scheme are you going to do?
    I am not sure on the color scheme, maybe red whit and blue, or a solid color with some cool graphics and stripes, so many choices. I will probably not do a traditional paint scheme. I will post some more photos soon of my progress.
    TB


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