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  1. #376

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Try to put as little weight as possible towards the rear of the plane.  This will go a long way towards balancing your plane with little to no added weight.  Push rods, if installed properly, won't give you any flexing problems.  Just tack the out sheath at the ends and if easily doable, somewhere in the middle.

    In my Pup, I used a Golden Rod from the servo back to just before the traditional exit out of the fuselage.  At that point, the Golden Rod ends in the center of a small piece of birch stock.  Rod with 2-56 threaded tips go out where the pull-pull cables would be for connection to the underside of the elevators.  Dummy carbon fiber rods (for lightness) are used on the top side to give the illusion of pull-pull.

    Good luck with the build.  You won't regret it.
    Salute!

    Chevelle
    http://www.vintageaerocraft.com

  2. #377

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build


    ORIGINAL: sprgfvr02

    Well, Happy New Year. My plane arrived this morning. I've been reading through the manual (no, really) and looking through the plans. One thing comes to mind. Someone mentioned the servo push rods and the issue of the vibrating rods while the engine was running. Has anyone installed a servo just forward of the tail section to eliminate the length of the push rods? I understand the issue of tail weight that would cause. I have a plane with the servos in the tail that works well.

    Also, I'd like to use a tail wheel in place of the skid. How would you recommend connecting that to the rudder servo? Or would you add a tail wheel servo in the tail?

    I build slow, so don't expect a bunch of photos right away.

    Wes
    I run a tailwheel attached to the rudder, and it works very well. It is as light as I could make it.

    Keep your tail as light as you can. Push your servos well forward, in front of the cockpit and use strudy pushrods. This airplane is extremly tail heavy, and you will regret every once you put in the tail.

    DW

  3. #378
    yellerchamp's Avatar
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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    I have one of these about half way done my first kit build, I had to call busa 4 times for pices missing, they shipped everytime but I wish they had a list of parts or some of catorgize them it would help novice during the build, I got off the build and now need to get back, the fuse and wings are done need to do a lot of sanding and set up cabanes...dan whoops wrong thread this is supposed to be on the 1/6 pup/thats what happens when your are sleepy

  4. #379

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Wes,

    Ialso installed a tail wheel. I used the Sullivan version. Very lightweight and simple. Have not finished in order to test it out yet. I think I used the 40-60 model (5-12 lbs). Seems just right. Bolts right to the stock plywood plate. I wanted to stay as light as possible (and simple).

    Kevin
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  5. #380

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    thanks KDBrown, I'll check them out.

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  6. #381

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    That's one I used, only I think I used a solid wire for better control on take off.

  7. #382

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Wes, Sullivan is the tail wheel set up I used on my Pup. It works great.
    -Les-
    Wanted: Smarter thumbs...

  8. #383

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Good morning. I don't know if this gentleman is subscribed to this forum or not. This is the best I've found for the build of the Sopwith Pup.

    Here's the web site: http://www.iainsrcmodelplanes.co.uk/sopwith%20pup.htm

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  9. #384

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    I am building the stab, and have a simple question regarding the elevator. The instruction manual says to glue the 3/8 inch dowel to the 3/8 inch balsa (elevator LE). This does not sound very strong to me. How did others accomplish this?

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  10. #385

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Hi Wes,

    See my post #205 on page 9.

    Daniel

  11. #386

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Interesting solution.

    Thanks,

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  12. #387
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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    ORIGINAL: sprgfvr02

    I am building the stab, and have a simple question regarding the elevator. The instruction manual says to glue the 3/8 inch dowel to the 3/8 inch balsa (elevator LE). This does not sound very strong to me. How did others accomplish this?

    Wes

    Per instruction is fine. Two season with mine and no issues.
    72 MHz Forever...............or at least until I buy a new radio.



    My club: www.deepriver.jimdo.com

  13. #388
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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    I had the same concerns and used Daniels suggestion, not a lot of work, and for the security I thought it was worth it.

    My build turned out way too heavy but it flies fine, if the bloody wind gets down below 25 knots I may get more flights in, very frustrating[:@]
    Try to keep your weight down.
    Don't be tempted to substitute parts of the build with spruce as I did, many people have built them as per plans and had hundreds of flights out of them.
    I have a nasty habbit of beefing things up when not nessisary.
    Cub brother #206
    Top Flight brother #08

  14. #389

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Last couple posts on page 8, and then page 9 discuss the dowel reinforcement. I did this using wire with a groove in the dowel. Cannot see any difference with the wire embedded in the dowel.  Gas engines do create a lot of vibration. I did this for insurance, and feel it is worthwhile, although the standard Balsa USA method is probably just fine. I also used the standard pushrod system rather than a pull/pull system and wanted a bit stronger joint.  I am trying hard to keep weight down, but don't want to skimp on key areas. Just finished covering my last piece but have not assembled to get a weight just yet..

    btw, first time that I've used Solartex. Fabulous product!!  I am amazed how nice this stuff is to work with. Extremely forgiving and strong.  The key is to order lots of knife blades, and change often. A new sharp blade makes for straight and crisp cuts.

  15. #390

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Well, Ifeel like Iam getting close. Need to add a lot of scale details, including rigging, landing gear spreader bar, gun, tail colors, paint, etc. Nice to see something that now looks like a plane!
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  16. #391

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Is that a cowl from Balsa USA, or did you make it yourself? The plane looks great. I think I ordered the same colors for the covering. I ordered olive drab and linen something or other...

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  17. #392

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Yes, Ipurchased the cowl from Balsa USA. That is also linen color. The other color (antique?) is rather transparent. Trying to figure out what to use on the tail feathers for red, white, and blue. Any ideas other than paint? Not willing to buy a whole roll of solartex for that small area. Will monokote stick to solartex?

  18. #393
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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Hey there KD, looks great!
    What weight did she come out at?
    I used the antique on mine, it looks good being translucent, I'm not sure what the real ones looked like.
    With the tail colours I painted mine on, it would be easier if you covered it in linen rather than the green, but just rule some pencil lines and paint it on.
    Don't worry if it doesn't have perfect lines, the real ones were painted and not spot on.
    I used the sticker roundels from balsa USA and they actually look too neat, when time permits they'll be replaced with painted on ones.
    May I suggest the MCuddon pilot from Jim Reeves http://www.jimreeves.plus.com/
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    Cub brother #206
    Top Flight brother #08

  19. #394

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Thanks 3136. I think I agree that paint is the way to go for the tail feathers. I also used the decals from Balsa USA which I agree are a bit too perfect. I prepared and used the application fluid they recommend, and they were still difficult to fully adhere. I used a warm covering iron to get them to fully adhere. Not sure how well they will stay. I will also spray them with a flat clear. Have not weighed it yet as not everything was in (servos, pushrods, fuel tank, batteries, etc. A preliminary trial balance put it very close to the CG, so I am not going to have to add as much weight as I initially thought. Ikept the tail as light as I could. When I get a final weight (with and without balast), I will post. Thanks!

  20. #395

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    I found something to watch for with these gas powered planes. The push rods vibrated like a guitar string with the engine running on my Pup. I added some extra cross braces to support the push rods and the vibrations ceased. I might go with Nyrods and cables next time to avoid this problem. Later on I soft mounted the motor to further reduce vibrations.
    Wanted: Smarter thumbs...

  21. #396

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Update;  I've built the stab, and the upper right wing. So far no surprises. My plans are equal for the upper wing. No difference in length as mentioned earlier in the thread. A lot of detail in this plane. I've been using mostly titebond glue and occasional CA. I've also been keeping an eye on RCU buy/sell section for a G26 engine with ignition. Horizon doesn't show one on their web site for some reason. And I'm a bit hesitant to get one of the cheep ones from 'other' sources.

    I'll post some photos when I'm done with the wings.

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  22. #397

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Pay close attention when building the wing center sections. There are a couple different size ribs to deal with and if they don't get into the correct place it will make you unhappy.[]
    I have the DLE 30 engine. I purchased it from Tower. It was a great buy and is a great running engine.

  23. #398

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Senrak,

    Thanks, I did notice the different sized ribs and the cabaine braces. I'm letting things cure right now, and getting ready to marry the right wing with the center section. I did the left wing yesterday. I used epoxy on the root ribs and the dihedril brace joints. I've had a wing fold back on my before on an arf. Not taking that chance again. I should start the lower wings by the end of the week.

    Having fun.

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  24. #399

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    Update. I've completed the build of both top and bottom wings. and the horizontal stab. So far so good. I still have a ton of sanding to do, but I'll do that last.

    One thing I've noticed is; Balsa USA did not mention in the manual the different lengths of the 3/8 by 1/4 sticks required for different areas of the build. So, I'm off to the LHS to buy a few of the 36 inch versions since I used them for my spars. I just found out that I need the 36 inch ones for the longerons on the fuse build. The splice should be under the plywood former on each side, and the shorter ones won't work. Oh well, I need more glue anyway.

    I'm still debating whether I will use my CRRC 26 in the pup or buy a Zenoah 26. I prefer the electronic ignition Zenoah, but don't see the G-26 ei version on Horizons' web site. There is another Zenoah 26 with a different prefix but I can't find any reviews on it yet. Has anyone used one?

    Wes
    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.

  25. #400

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    RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build

    I'm now in the process of building the fuse, and at the point of installing the wing bolts. I'm real nervous about the way the manual suggests doing this. I'd prefer to use blind nuts rather than just tapping the mounting blocks. How have you folks accomplished this?

    Wes

    What\'\'s clear to you, is clear to you.


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