Chevelle

My Feedback: (2)

Try to put as little weight as possible towards the rear of the plane.  This will go a long way towards balancing your plane with little to no added weight.  Push rods, if installed properly, won't give you any flexing problems.  Just tack the out sheath at the ends and if easily doable, somewhere in the middle.

In my Pup, I used a Golden Rod from the servo back to just before the traditional exit out of the fuselage.  At that point, the Golden Rod ends in the center of a small piece of birch stock.  Rod with 2-56 threaded tips go out where the pull-pull cables would be for connection to the underside of the elevators.  Dummy carbon fiber rods (for lightness) are used on the top side to give the illusion of pull-pull.

Good luck with the build.  You won't regret it.

senrak

I run a tailwheel attached to the rudder, and it works very well. It is as light as I could make it.

Keep your tail as light as you can. Push your servos well forward, in front of the cockpit and use strudy pushrods. This airplane is extremly tail heavy, and you will regret every once you put in the tail.

DW

yellerchamp

My Feedback: (42)

I have one of these about half way done my first kit build, I had to call busa 4 times for pices missing, they shipped everytime but I wish they had a list of parts or some of catorgize them it would help novice during the build, I got off the build and now need to get back, the fuse and wings are done need to do a lot of sanding and set up cabanes...dan whoops wrong thread this is supposed to be on the 1/6 pup/thats what happens when your are sleepy

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Wes,

Ialso installed a tail wheel. I used the Sullivan version. Very lightweight and simple. Have not finished in order to test it out yet. I think I used the 40-60 model (5-12 lbs). Seems just right. Bolts right to the stock plywood plate. I wanted to stay as light as possible (and simple).

Kevin

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

thanks KDBrown, I'll check them out.

Wes

senrak

That's one I used, only I think I used a solid wire for better control on take off.

CanDo

Wes, Sullivan is the tail wheel set up I used on my Pup. It works great.
-Les-

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Good morning. I don't know if this gentleman is subscribed to this forum or not. This is the best I've found for the build of the Sopwith Pup.

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

I am building the stab, and have a simple question regarding the elevator. The instruction manual says to glue the 3/8 inch dowel to the 3/8 inch balsa (elevator LE). This does not sound very strong to me. How did others accomplish this?

gervaisd

Hi Wes,

See my post #205 on page 9.

Daniel

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Interesting solution.

Thanks,

Wes

bolar

My Feedback: (5)

Per instruction is fine. Two season with mine and no issues.

3136

I had the same concerns and used Daniels suggestion, not a lot of work, and for the security I thought it was worth it.

My build turned out way too heavy but it flies fine, if the bloody wind gets down below 25 knots I may get more flights in, very frustrating[:@]
Try to keep your weight down.
Don't be tempted to substitute parts of the build with spruce as I did, many people have built them as per plans and had hundreds of flights out of them.
I have a nasty habbit of beefing things up when not nessisary.

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Last couple posts on page 8, and then page 9 discuss the dowel reinforcement. I did this using wire with a groove in the dowel. Cannot see any difference with the wire embedded in the dowel.  Gas engines do create a lot of vibration. I did this for insurance, and feel it is worthwhile, although the standard Balsa USA method is probably just fine. I also used the standard pushrod system rather than a pull/pull system and wanted a bit stronger joint.  I am trying hard to keep weight down, but don't want to skimp on key areas. Just finished covering my last piece but have not assembled to get a weight just yet..

btw, first time that I've used Solartex. Fabulous product!!  I am amazed how nice this stuff is to work with. Extremely forgiving and strong.  The key is to order lots of knife blades, and change often. A new sharp blade makes for straight and crisp cuts.

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Well, Ifeel like Iam getting close. Need to add a lot of scale details, including rigging, landing gear spreader bar, gun, tail colors, paint, etc. Nice to see something that now looks like a plane!

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Is that a cowl from Balsa USA, or did you make it yourself? The plane looks great. I think I ordered the same colors for the covering. I ordered olive drab and linen something or other...

Wes

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, Ipurchased the cowl from Balsa USA. That is also linen color. The other color (antique?) is rather transparent. Trying to figure out what to use on the tail feathers for red, white, and blue. Any ideas other than paint? Not willing to buy a whole roll of solartex for that small area. Will monokote stick to solartex?

3136

Hey there KD, looks great!
What weight did she come out at?
I used the antique on mine, it looks good being translucent, I'm not sure what the real ones looked like.
With the tail colours I painted mine on, it would be easier if you covered it in linen rather than the green, but just rule some pencil lines and paint it on.
Don't worry if it doesn't have perfect lines, the real ones were painted and not spot on.
I used the sticker roundels from balsa USA and they actually look too neat, when time permits they'll be replaced with painted on ones.
May I suggest the MCuddon pilot from Jim Reeves http://www.jimreeves.plus.com/

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks 3136. I think I agree that paint is the way to go for the tail feathers. I also used the decals from Balsa USA which I agree are a bit too perfect. I prepared and used the application fluid they recommend, and they were still difficult to fully adhere. I used a warm covering iron to get them to fully adhere. Not sure how well they will stay. I will also spray them with a flat clear. Have not weighed it yet as not everything was in (servos, pushrods, fuel tank, batteries, etc. A preliminary trial balance put it very close to the CG, so I am not going to have to add as much weight as I initially thought. Ikept the tail as light as I could. When I get a final weight (with and without balast), I will post. Thanks!

CanDo

I found something to watch for with these gas powered planes. The push rods vibrated like a guitar string with the engine running on my Pup. I added some extra cross braces to support the push rods and the vibrations ceased. I might go with Nyrods and cables next time to avoid this problem. Later on I soft mounted the motor to further reduce vibrations.

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Update;  I've built the stab, and the upper right wing. So far no surprises. My plans are equal for the upper wing. No difference in length as mentioned earlier in the thread. A lot of detail in this plane. I've been using mostly titebond glue and occasional CA. I've also been keeping an eye on RCU buy/sell section for a G26 engine with ignition. Horizon doesn't show one on their web site for some reason. And I'm a bit hesitant to get one of the cheep ones from 'other' sources.

senrak

Pay close attention when building the wing center sections. There are a couple different size ribs to deal with and if they don't get into the correct place it will make you unhappy.[]
I have the DLE 30 engine. I purchased it from Tower. It was a great buy and is a great running engine.

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Senrak,

Thanks, I did notice the different sized ribs and the cabaine braces. I'm letting things cure right now, and getting ready to marry the right wing with the center section. I did the left wing yesterday. I used epoxy on the root ribs and the dihedril brace joints. I've had a wing fold back on my before on an arf. Not taking that chance again. I should start the lower wings by the end of the week.

Having fun.

Wes

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

Update. I've completed the build of both top and bottom wings. and the horizontal stab. So far so good. I still have a ton of sanding to do, but I'll do that last.

sprgfvr02

My Feedback: (1)

I'm now in the process of building the fuse, and at the point of installing the wing bolts. I'm real nervous about the way the manual suggests doing this. I'd prefer to use blind nuts rather than just tapping the mounting blocks. How have you folks accomplished this?