Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

A little tip for other builders:

The wing tip gussets and wingtips are on three die cut sheets, and the three sheets are identical. The instructions say to use one of the larger gussets in the front position on each wingtip, and one of the smaller ones in the aft position. They don't say that the gussets are not equilateral triangles, and that there is a right and a wrong way to get them in there.

The triangles have a base that is shorter than the sides, and that base (which is towards you in the photo) must go towards the last rib at each end of the wing. (I determined this by some elaborate procedures that I'll describe only if asked.) The photo shows the small gussets to the left.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Another little trick some of you might want to use:

I read on another thread that the TEs are kind of delicate, and could use some reinforcing. Then, after sanding one of the scallops and its pair of capstrips, it became obvious that no way were the capstrips going to blend in with the TE, and there would be wrinkles in the covering at the junctions. So...I cut some 1/32 balsa to the shape of the scallops, and CAd it in between each pair of ribs. It sands flush with the tail end of the cap strips, and now the TE is very rigid, at little increase in weight.

Lower wing complete, March 11-20. Center wing to start today.

flygilmore

I did mine (trailing edges) totally stock and they turned out fine. Plenty stiff and blended in perfectly-not the first wrinkle. I used Solartex which also helps-it goes on sooo nice.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I used 1/8 x 1/4" balsa added to the trailing edge as well. This worked for me and the trailing edge was stiff enough to resist deforming when I covered.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I was thinking that way, too, JEB.

Anyway, for now I'm kinda stuck, as I ran out of all three weights of CA last night. We'll be going to the Detroit area Sunday and I can get some more at an LHS I've been going to since I was 12.

I was doing some research online last night, and I guess the Baron never had an all red one, but did fly one that was all red with a white rudder and a blue gray bottom surface. Since I'll be Monokoting it, there's no blue/gray in the future, so I'll use either Dove gray or blue mist ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHV35&P=SM ) on the bottom, unless anyone knows of another color that will look better.

I don't paint, so you guys can save your breath on that idea. Also, I don't use flats. I like my models to look like ARFs Nice an shiny.

flygilmore

It's your model and I respect that but I just have to ask.... why in the world would you want a WWI aircraft that was fabric covered and dyed olive streak (from the factory) to look "shiny" like an ARF????? Kind of degrading I think. If you are wanting that look, why not just look for the cheesy GP/Nitro Models version (they do show up every once in a while) and be done with it????????

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Simple, really, I like the way they look.

ARUP

...ran out of CA...
You could use carpenter's wood glue to build. Just glue and pin in place and work on other stuff while glue dries. Carpenter's wood glue is very inexpensive, weighs less and non-brittle. Since it is easier to sand you won't have 'lumpy-bumps' showing up thru your shiny arf covering (which will make irregularities show more so!) like your CA will. Good luck, Shiney Heiny!

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I like that, "Shiny Heiny".

I think I'll just take a break until I can get more CA. I'm getting better at using it, and the build goes a lot faster using it. I've used Elmer's (or the Tower equivalent) before, and it seems like the structure comes out heavier, anyway. Subjective opinion, but I do know that using alphaitic resin will get you warps in places where CA won't.

Anyway, for the first time in anyone's memory, spring has coincided with the the vernal equinox, so me and Snoopy are going flying in his Sopwith Camel. (Hangar 9)

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Now this is not a surprise to me. I was not going to chime in here, but I cannot help myself. You are right, it is your model and it can be finished however. I have two points though, I consider Monokote a temporary covering. It looks OK at first and just gets worse as time goes on. Especially if glow power is used. With the amount of effort it takes to build this model, time should be tken to give it a lasting quality finish.
Secondly, What difference does it make what colors Richtofen flew if it is going to be all shiny and fake looking anyway? You may as well cover it all pink or whatever.
One thing you will find, the triplane has some wonderful quirks as to how it flies, and is about as fun as any plane to spin. Maybe you should try an IMAC scheme and enter it in an aerobatic contest? Now that would be novel and challenging at the same time.

flygilmore

Fabulous posting vertical....my exact thoughts!!!!!

CanDo

Gentlemen, if the man likes shiny planes, it's his build. FYI, I have 10 year old monokote planes that still look great. You can always spray on a clear flat finish if you want that look. I prefer Solartex on my WWI planes, but that's just my preference. Remember, this hobby is suppose to be fun; keep on building!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

The only thing to think about is that a light blue underside is REALLLYYYYY hard to see on a cloudless day. One of my Tripes had the blue belly and wings ( yep, all nice and shinny) and it made me think about not doing that color again. But its yours, so go for it!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Hard to see the blue belly, but its there

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I'm thinking you have a good point, Jeff. I've had planes with "problem colors", too, and I'm not anxious to repeat the experience. I think maybe I'll stick to red.

As far as 'kote not holding up under glow exhaust, I used to have that problem, until I read Faye's books on covering, and started getting the edges right and sealing them with a thin line of Minwax urethane. I've used that technique with self stick decals that got a daily bath in exhaust residue, and they stayed on.

I do know that "Oracover" won't hold up under glow exhaust. It's on my Mariner ARF, and someday I'll be recovering that bird. It actually delaminates under any kind of heat. Ultra Cote and MonoKote do OK. Maybe the edge goes to Ultra Cote, but I'm not sure, and Horizon's high prices and the goofy dimensions of the roll kind of keep me away from it. It is really easy to work with, tho, and they don't seem to have any problem colors like Top Flite does- aluminum in particular is just impossible.

flygilmore

Well, as Vertical pretty much allready stated, if you are going to spend the time and money to build this plane, why not do it true to form? The undersides of all surfaces were dyed light blue from the factory. When the dye mixed with the linen cloth it gave the appearance of a very light blueish-green surface for the sole purpose of "camoflauge" in the attempt to hide from lower altitude aircraft. I got my paint samples straight from GTM and had Lowes mix it for me.....to date, I have not had any issues with being able to see my DR.1 in any weather condition. Course, I also fly it in close and realistically and not 1/2 mile up! Perhaps this is only a problem for those who use the "shiny plastic stuff" and not the rest of us who use something more scale!!!!!

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

A small modification to the "landing gear" block that is home for the aft cabane strut assembly. The only real strength in how BUSA says to install this is where it is contacted by the sheeting that goes on the backside of the cutout. The rest of it is held in only by gluing to 3/32 wide balsa surfaces. I had a wing come off once, that was enough. I just expanded the contact area a little with some triangle stock, and used epoxy.

I must have looked at the picture of the cabane block in place 50 times, but it never occurred to me that I would need to cut notches in the mating ribs. (To be fair, the book says nothing about it until it's time to glue them in, but I should have read ahead.) Had to do it after they were glued in. There's no pattern on the plans for this, but it's not really necessary, either.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Another small mod, to procedure this time, in the same area of the center wing:

The instructions, in step 11, page 12, reference installing the diecut center sheeting cutout pieces (upper) before the vertical sheeting that defines the cutout curve.

To get a better fit, and eliminate some hassle, I installed the vertical sheeting first, being careful to get a close fit to the bottom center sheeting cutout pieces. This results in a very nice fit with the top center sheeting cutout pieces.

That used up the last few drops of my thick CA, so I'm done until Sunday evening.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like your coming along with the Dr. My plane has a sky blue underside, but it is large enough that other things show up just fine expept when directly over head.

Nice job and reminds me of the enjoyable days I spent building mine. Considering a 33% N17.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, I think I'm going to go back to the idea of a "blue mist" underside. It's a bit lighter than the sky blue, even though it isn't a "blue gray" as described in the literature.

A 33% Nieuport 17 will come in just shy of 9 feet WS. Cool. They are good looking airplanes.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Found one of those lovely Xoar wooden props Sunday, 17x6. Ran it up on the OS 120 AX this afternoon. 8000 rpm on 10%, good for about 45mph and around 15 pounds of thrust. Perfect.

flygilmore

That 1.20AX should be turning that Xoar more than that....is it broken in yet/tuned correctly???? Yes, the Xoars will typically load the engine more than various other props but straight out of the box, I was getting 9,400 on an APC 17x6 and then after broken in added a Macs header and my own MCP and got 10,400

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

It doesn't have a large amount of time on it yet, maybe an hour or so, and also the combination of 10% fuel and 1200 feet above sea level brings it down somewhat. I'm going to try a 17x5 Zinger on it as well.

Dr1Driver

I've built two of these, and flown both extensively. Not particularly scale, but a nice looking model. The CF wing tube is unnecessary. You'll create a situation that, in a crash, the wing will survive but the fuselage will get damaged. The crash force has to go somewhere. Functional axe handles are a good thing, as is the warning against crosswind takeoffs and landings. Unless BUSA has changed it, the top and middle wing is a one-piece unit. Re-engineer that first thing! It's hard to transport and harder to repair. You want to create a situation where damage is isolated to individual pieces.

I can give you some tips on takeoff and landing, if you want.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I love the way the middle and top wing stay together. I have had no problems with that at all. It makes field assembly very easy. I have a full size pickup to haul mine in though.
I would not get to overzealous with the mods on this aircraft. It is really good stock. One thing though, change out the Main axel to 1/4" music wire and be sure to set toe in. You will be sorry if you do not and replacing the axle later anyway.
Also, anyone having warping and weight issues with aliphatic, PVA type glues, does not know how to use them. Patience is the main ingredient required to build an aircraft without CA. All of these adhesives have their place though and I use them all.