Sealing Koverall
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Sealing Koverall
Im covering a Sopwith Pup, and im wondering,
Since i want to still be able to see the weave of the fabric once its painted. Do i still have to seal the fabric after i cover the airframe?
Or can i go straight to paint once im done covering.
I have sealed the entire airframe with nitrate dope, and after i covered I applied very thin nitrate to the area that contacts the covering.
Just not sure if i need to nitrate the entire fabrics and open bays.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks!
Since i want to still be able to see the weave of the fabric once its painted. Do i still have to seal the fabric after i cover the airframe?
Or can i go straight to paint once im done covering.
I have sealed the entire airframe with nitrate dope, and after i covered I applied very thin nitrate to the area that contacts the covering.
Just not sure if i need to nitrate the entire fabrics and open bays.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks!
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RE: Sealing Koverall
I'm not sure I understand your question, but you need to seal the weave of Koverall or the paint will just seep through. The nitrate you mentioned will seal the weave if you use three or four coats. You can then just paint and the weave will show. The only way to elliminate the weave is by using a filler before painting.
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RE: Sealing Koverall
I guess i may have misworded my first post.
Yes that was my question does koverall have to be sealed before painting , regardless of the type of finish one may be doing.
Yes that was my question does koverall have to be sealed before painting , regardless of the type of finish one may be doing.
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RE: Sealing Koverall
This is the first time I have ever replied to a forum question, only because every body has to prove how smart they are, so I know I am opening myself up to critique.
Been using KOVERALL SINCE 86, Here is my method.
1. light coat of nitrate on bare wood
2. lay or pin kovering over area. always bottom first.
brush heavy coat of nitrate through material , only at overlap areas.
3. sealing iron to edge of fabric
4. another coat of nitrate to overlap, lay top fabric and brush through to under fabric. iron seal.
5 lightly shrink fabric both sides. then press hot iron on rib pattern and overlaped edges.
6 one coat of nitrate 50/50 mix over all. THIS will wrap around al polyester fibers, inside and out of fabric. Nitrate is the only hot dope that will do this.
7. allow to cure for a day or two, untill most aroma is gone.
8. you then can add several coats of buyterate, BUT be carfull about sanding through to fabric, if you brake the nitrate barrier, paint will not stick.
9. if you want a smoth area such as areas that would be done to simulate metal, Just add several table spoons of baby powder ( talac) to the buterate, make heavy coats and 600 grit . you will get a very hard shell like apperance.
Been using KOVERALL SINCE 86, Here is my method.
1. light coat of nitrate on bare wood
2. lay or pin kovering over area. always bottom first.
brush heavy coat of nitrate through material , only at overlap areas.
3. sealing iron to edge of fabric
4. another coat of nitrate to overlap, lay top fabric and brush through to under fabric. iron seal.
5 lightly shrink fabric both sides. then press hot iron on rib pattern and overlaped edges.
6 one coat of nitrate 50/50 mix over all. THIS will wrap around al polyester fibers, inside and out of fabric. Nitrate is the only hot dope that will do this.
7. allow to cure for a day or two, untill most aroma is gone.
8. you then can add several coats of buyterate, BUT be carfull about sanding through to fabric, if you brake the nitrate barrier, paint will not stick.
9. if you want a smoth area such as areas that would be done to simulate metal, Just add several table spoons of baby powder ( talac) to the buterate, make heavy coats and 600 grit . you will get a very hard shell like apperance.
#5
RE: Sealing Koverall
Another option is several coats of Minwax PolyCrylic. This will fill the weave. 2-3 coats you will still see the weave of the fabric after painting. 4-6 coats and you will have a smooth finish. Lightly sand with 400 after the 2nd coat and each coat after. Here are a couple pics of a 33% Waco I just covered with Koverall and filled with PolyC. The tapes are from Pink-it.net
Anthony
Anthony
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RE: Sealing Koverall
I have used the Minwax Poly on 2 models now and it has worked well for me. I use the same method Waconut uses. I am always going for the smooth as glass finish. I must admit gthrones technique looks promising. I may try it next.
#9
RE: Sealing Koverall
Look in the Golden Age, Vintage and Antique Forum. The thread is called Waco YMF. It is a huge thread, but there are several instructive posts concerning Koverall and finishing.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
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RE: Sealing Koverall
When you seal the fabric with the nitrate, does it have to be brushed on? Or can you spray it ? When you brush it will the nitrate underneath effect the appearance of the butyrate colors? Will it show streaks or flaws in the nitrate coats underneath??
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
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RE: Sealing Koverall
ORIGINAL: Trax540
When you seal the fabric with the nitrate, does it have to be brushed on? Or can you spray it ? When you brush it will the nitrate underneath effect the appearance of the butyrate colors? Will it show streaks or flaws in the nitrate coats underneath??
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
When you seal the fabric with the nitrate, does it have to be brushed on? Or can you spray it ? When you brush it will the nitrate underneath effect the appearance of the butyrate colors? Will it show streaks or flaws in the nitrate coats underneath??
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
I finish in a way similar to what's done on full size aircraft. After applying the fabric and sealing it with a few coats of nitrate, I then spray a coat of silver buty color. The silver does two things. First, it brings out any finishing flaws that I might want to fix. Silver will show EVERY little problem. Second, it creates a uniform color cover over the many different shades of wood, glue, and fillers used during construction. With a silver base, the color coats look uniform. Additionally, the silver will prevent the sun from shining through your covering (think of the pictures of a model in flight, with sunlight bleeding through the covering to expose the framework). About the sun, silver also protects the fabric from UV deterioration (when my models last enough for me to care about UV [8D] ).
#13
RE: Sealing Koverall
ORIGINAL: gthrone
This is the first time I have ever replied to a forum question, only because every body has to prove how smart they are, so I know I am opening myself up to critique.
Been using KOVERALL SINCE 86, Here is my method.
1. light coat of nitrate on bare wood
2. lay or pin kovering over area. always bottom first.
brush heavy coat of nitrate through material , only at overlap areas.
3. sealing iron to edge of fabric
4. another coat of nitrate to overlap, lay top fabric and brush through to under fabric. iron seal.
5 lightly shrink fabric both sides. then press hot iron on rib pattern and overlaped edges.
6 one coat of nitrate 50/50 mix over all. THIS will wrap around al polyester fibers, inside and out of fabric. Nitrate is the only hot dope that will do this.
7. allow to cure for a day or two, untill most aroma is gone.
8. you then can add several coats of buyterate, BUT be carfull about sanding through to fabric, if you brake the nitrate barrier, paint will not stick.
9. if you want a smoth area such as areas that would be done to simulate metal, Just add several table spoons of baby powder ( talac) to the buterate, make heavy coats and 600 grit . you will get a very hard shell like apperance.
This is the first time I have ever replied to a forum question, only because every body has to prove how smart they are, so I know I am opening myself up to critique.
Been using KOVERALL SINCE 86, Here is my method.
1. light coat of nitrate on bare wood
2. lay or pin kovering over area. always bottom first.
brush heavy coat of nitrate through material , only at overlap areas.
3. sealing iron to edge of fabric
4. another coat of nitrate to overlap, lay top fabric and brush through to under fabric. iron seal.
5 lightly shrink fabric both sides. then press hot iron on rib pattern and overlaped edges.
6 one coat of nitrate 50/50 mix over all. THIS will wrap around al polyester fibers, inside and out of fabric. Nitrate is the only hot dope that will do this.
7. allow to cure for a day or two, untill most aroma is gone.
8. you then can add several coats of buyterate, BUT be carfull about sanding through to fabric, if you brake the nitrate barrier, paint will not stick.
9. if you want a smoth area such as areas that would be done to simulate metal, Just add several table spoons of baby powder ( talac) to the buterate, make heavy coats and 600 grit . you will get a very hard shell like apperance.
Couldn't have said this better myself. I have been doing this way for years. If you omit step 9 above, you will have the fabric appearance you are after.
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RE: Sealing Koverall
gthrone-do you ever use stik-it on the edges to lay the covering or just Nitrate. Also after you add a overlap layer of cloth and nitrate that-you mention you put an iron to it-Right away or after it drys? curious after reading your post.
#15
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RE: Sealing Koverall
ORIGINAL: mikegordon10
FWIW - Nitrate isn't fuel proof.
FWIW - Nitrate isn't fuel proof.
I have used Butyrate before but like I said no longer available here.
#16
RE: Sealing Koverall
ORIGINAL: Trax540
When you seal the fabric with the nitrate, does it have to be brushed on? Or can you spray it ? When you brush it will the nitrate underneath effect the appearance of the butyrate colors? Will it show streaks or flaws in the nitrate coats underneath??
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
When you seal the fabric with the nitrate, does it have to be brushed on? Or can you spray it ? When you brush it will the nitrate underneath effect the appearance of the butyrate colors? Will it show streaks or flaws in the nitrate coats underneath??
Also Waconut, What material is that you used for the metal Panels on that Waco?
That plane looks amazing!
The metal panels are simulated with Fiberglass. This is the 33% AMR kit and it comes with all the fiberglass panels. I did lay up the cockpit door myself. Should make a very impressive plane once I get her finished.
Anthony