freddy s

My Feedback: (33)

thanks for the positive comments,i appreciate it Happy New Year

EngineDesigner

My Feedback: (5)

Does anyone know an exact reason why Great Planes will not bring back the US1000?? (or even bigger)

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

That was actually the first one they DID bring back. Who knows, they may do another run of them some day

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

I sure would love to build a US1000 some day.  After the build pipeline gets a little less clogged I may try to find an old kit.  I remember dreaming of buying a US1000 when they first came out.

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

I'm trying to sell mine but it is the 80" wing span so no shipping, if i dont sell it locally I'm bringing it to the Perry Georgia Swap Meet to get it sold. PM me for info or details. This plane is also in my gallery

ARTP47

has any one put a Dl 20 in a US 60

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

That aint gonna happen because that is too big of an engine not to mention what you have to do to the airframe to handle the weight and the power pulses of the engine. Think about it, the DLE 20 weighs in at 29 ounces and if you was to use a OS 65AX weighs in about 21 ounces so if you have eight more ounces in the nose of that plane just inagine the weight you have to use on the tail, i predict no less than 8 ounces of lead in the tail of that plane. Now if you already have a plane with engine and all gear and all the lead to balance and ready to fly i think the plane is on the verge of being a lead sled weighing in about 7 1/2 to 8 pounds so that number you wont be gaining anything on using the DLE 20, one final thing the DLE 20 prop range is at least a 14-10 but needs a 15-8 and unless you use really long wobbly landing gear legs you are very likely not to be able to taxi and land without nicking the prop. If you go and do this build i wish you the very most best of luck and perhaps you can post pictures of your finished product of your plane holding up a DLE 20.

ARTP47

Thanks for the reply. You made several good points.

Zor

You are not accepting PM so I suggest here that you revise your posting above.

Happy New Year from Zor

rthalls

My Feedback: (63)

I am scratch building a ultrasport 1000 and would like to know what retracts are best
[ if I can afford them ]

Red_Jeepster

WOW! Talk about FUME city! I have just tried (for the first time) the CA method of applying the fiberglass to the wing joint on my US60. I usually go with glass and resin. I am glad I read the warnings about the excessive fumes, and took precautions!
Opinion: Aside from the obvious fumes, this was a pretty good way to fiberglass the center joint. I like that it was quick, and it sanded out smooth enough at the edges.
So, an Old Dog learned a new trick! LOL

Back to building...
I've gotta get this one done so I can start my next Astro Hog!

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

You mean what retracts are most economical. I'm sure there is a pair of German retacs out there for $2,000.

Sierra, Robart, and Century would be fine. Whatch out for the Ford vrs Chevy debates.

ARTP47

NO I'm just thanking rglgatortail for taking the time to ansere my question.

Zor

ARTP47,

My posting #1382 was not addressed to you.

It was aimed at the text I highlighted in green and underlined.

Zor

ARTP47

Zor Sorry I miss read

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

ARTP47,

Another thing to keep in mind with a DLE20 on a US60 would be torque. As was mentioned before the DLE 20 likes a big prop. If you go with a smaller prop to fit the airframe you would go up in pitch which would result in more torque effect. I think most builders prefer 2 strokes on the US because it just flies better with them.

Zor

No apologies needed ARTP47.

I wanted to attract attention that with 8 oz more for the engine is not compensated with 8 oz or more at the tail.

Hey 3 days gone in 2012 ; that is 0.008214 % of the year ___Ha! Hee! Hooo! ___

Zor

digital_trucker

Another good method of glassing a center section is to use Elmer's Wood Glue. Pour the glue into a small tub, put the 'glass into the tub and make sure it's thoroughly wetted, then put the 'glass on the wing. It's very easy to reposition it, and any excess glue is easily wiped off with a damp cloth. It sands and fills well, too. You can also thin the glue slightly with water if you like to make it even easier, but it's not really necessary.

jp_boud

My Feedback: (2)

Time for the brotherhood to man up for question time for me. I've finally gotten to really fly my US .60 with an EVO .61NX. I got comfortable with the speed and slowing down for nice grease landings, and began to really throw it around some. My issue is a simple stall turn. I pull into a vertical, reduce throttle and kick in all the rudder I have as speed bleeds off. As the stall begins, I blip the throttle....and the nose falls forward, and the plane starts flying again! It never swings around and points nose down. If I leave out the throttle blip, same thing happens, just slower.  I'm on point for CG. Trimmed out for level flight requires a little forward pressure to fly inverted. Plane will knife edge forever. I can do this maneuver with all my other planes without thinking about it. This plane seems stall proof!!! Do I need to make a change somewhere? With everything else being so nice, should I just accept that there will be no stall turns? Thanks for the ideas

JP

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Odd, it usually does a stall turn nicely.

I would suggest triple-checking that you are pointing straight up, and/or try kicking in the rudder when you still have forward momentum.

I usually do a stall turn without blipping the throttle - I just kick in the rudder JUST before the stall

jp_boud

My Feedback: (2)

Guess I should have thrown out there also, that I can, under power use the rudder to turn around from straight up to straight down in a large half loop fashion. ( I'm sure there is some facny aerobatic name for that ) It just takes more realestate than the stall turn. I guess if I could figure out what I did to build this "stall proof" plane, some civl aviation company would pay me big bucks for it!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Back when (WAAAY back when) I flew pattern, you got points taken off if you blipped the throttle on a stall turn.

Ideally, You move the rudder just before the stall - Now when it stalls, the plane is cocked slightly sideways so the downward fall causes the plane to nose down

jp_boud

My Feedback: (2)

Guess I will just keep messing with it then. Maybe there is a bit of fines in there I just have not found yet! Either way, there is lots of fun to be had with this plane. It has a special place for me too, I'm the only non-ARF flyer at my field, so everyone else wants my US, but can't have one!!!!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, that's one of the beauties of it

Zor

Hey ___one way of becoming rich ___if only it was true ___that some airplane ___cannot stall.

There is more than one way an airplane can stall.

The word is usually referring to exceeding the stalling angle of attack of the main wings but that is not what is happening in what is referred to as "a stall turn".

In a stall turn the airplane is simply loosing momentum (inertia) in a vertical climb. The speed going vertically drops to zero after the power is reduced to idleand the CG reverses direction due to gravity.

Full rudder will normally rotate (yaw) the airplane in the opposite direction to the rudder.
However if the engine idle is too fast the prop wash counteract this action and may even override it.

Using rudder before the vertical speed becomes zero is an actual command response of the airplane.

Note that in a vertical climb under power the lift is provided only by the propeller pulling upward. There is no wing lift generated. In this condition there really is no stall in the ususal sense the word is used. The expression " a stall turn " is a misnomer although well undestood as to its meaning.

We may then consider another definition for "stall" as being a stop in flying as the speed approaches and becomes zero. The airplane stalls flying in the sense that it comes to a standstill.

Just the way I see things.

Zor