Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

That's right. All the dihedral in the US 40 and US 60 if built according to the plans is in the bottom of the wing. The top of the wing is flat, but because the thickness tapers, the bottom has some dihedral. Always wondered why the instructions tell you how much to raise the tips when gluing the wing halves together: it's easier to glue them upside-down on a flat board.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

I just re-checked the instructions on the US 60 kit. I calls for 1 1/8" dihedral under each tip. If you do that the top of the wing is definitely not flat.

The original design of the Kaos and the UltraSport called for 2 degrees of dihedral measured at the wing's centerline. The plans for all of the Ultra Sport kits called for dihedral. That spec has be debated and tested by competition pattern flyers (thread in RCG) and the verdict is that it flies best with just a hair more dihedral than originally called for. (2.5 degrees?)

But to each his own. If you like it with reduced dihedral, fine, enjoy. Just don't say it was designed that way. It wasn't.

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

You're right. It's close to flat, but not quite. My bad.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

if debating what to do w dihedral I have listed as best I can a short affect of what each does

facts are reducing dihedral will reduce the aileron coupling when rudder is used. it will also make it hold a bank better.
more dihedral will make it settle out to level with less pilot input (the opposite of holding a bank).

I like that when doing stall turns wing overs, and hammer heads I don't have to carry as much aileron to keep the wings level. and in the wind it holds a bank so I can use lift vectoring to set a straight low pass or any pass for that matter, with out being concerned about it settling out.

Joe

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Once again, let me say that you can set up your plane any way you want to. But for reference, in simple terms, here is the reason for the dihedral.

We want an aerobatic airplane to be neutral in all axis. That means that the airplane will continue indefinitely along the path that it was last commanded to follow. Roll it 15 degrees left in level flight then center the controls and the airplane will continue in level flight, in a 15 degree left bank. Raise the nose 45 degrees, release the sticks and the airplane will continue to climb at 45 degrees. The benefit is that any input the pilot gives is followed exactly by the airplane, without having to use a portion of it to correct a deviation from the last input. In level flight, upright, inverted, knife edge or anywhere in between, the airplane should fly straight across the field without further pilot input.

In order to be neutral in roll, low wing airplanes like the Ultra Sport needs some dihedral. Mid-wing airplanes like Edges and Extras need zero dihedral, and high wing airplanes need anhedral. The dihedral and anhedral are the aerodynamic fixes for the problems that gravity creates when the wing is not on the vertical center of gravity of the airplane. And of course the amount of dihedral or anhedral needed for each airplane is different.

By removing the dihedral from a low wing airplane, you make it a bit less stable when flying upright (like flying a high wing airplane inverted), and a bit more stable when flying inverted (like the high winger, right side up). The first half of your rolls will be a bit faster than the second half. Rolling into a turn the airplane will have a tendency to over-rotate. (You have apparently learned to prefer that behavior.)

The Ultra Sport with the called for amount of dihedral and the called for CG, is neutral in roll and will not self level in a turn. It is not neutral in pitch when in knife edge, but that is a whole different discussion.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

With regard to rudder/aileron coupling, yes, the high rudder on the Ultra Sport causes the airplane to roll away from the direction of rudder input. This is a common problem with low wing aircraft. But reducing the dihedral is not the best fix. Try mixing opposite aileron with the rudder. Of course that will screw up the knife edge, so you might want to put the mix on a switch.

Setting up an airplane is always a series of compromises.

stuka

My Feedback: (62)

I know this info probably is in the thread somewhere, but it is a lot to read.

I was wondering if anyone has converted one of these to electric. If so what set up did you use? Motor, ESC, battery, and prop.

What air retracts have you guys been using?

Do you guys think it is worth moving the gear out one bay when you retracts as well?

I have been out of the smaller airplanes for a while, but like most of you guys this was my favorite sport plane. My first had spring air retracts with a Supertigre 75 if I remember correctly.

Thanks in advance.

Danster_1

Some years ago, I posted #2283 showing my 1994 Ultra sport 40 after a low speed tip stall whack.

This past winter, I finally resurrected it with a few upgrades, super bright LED's and a 2.4 receiver, she's just like new but for a very slight color mismatch just due to the age of the plane but looks good.

Best part is she's still 100mph plane and flies on a rail, straight as an arrow, I was hoping I didn't screw up the engin alignment, thrust issue when I rebuilt the nose, wings and tail.

was going to downsize a bit but I put the .61SF back in it and it's still my favorite plane of the fleet and back in full service :-)

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

depends on what you want to run. we have 2 us60's on turnagy 4260-500 turning 12x8's on 6s, another on turnagy 5045-430 same prop and batteries. everything else I have has retracts so my us60 is fixed gear, but I would recommend spring air when they come back.

Joe

RDJeff

My Feedback: (11)

Please add me to the Brotherhood! I got my hands on a short kit of the 1000, and so far, I've built the tail feathers, built up the spruce spars, and glued up the fuselage halves. I'll be running a Super Tigre 3250, and I'll be making some custom fuse mounted aluminum landing gear with the back sweep and wheel pants. This ought to be fun!

Mikey954rr

Love to hear about this. I am getting ready to start one myself here. Still torturing myself over engine choice. I need it to be gas but where I need to be size wise is stumping me. I too will be putting my lg on the fuse mostly to make more prop clearance and just for simplicity sake. Good luck on your build Jeff and I hope to be following in the next month myself.

RDJeff

My Feedback: (11)

You're a Honda guy, eh?

Danster_1

Hello, I posted #2283 and #3008 and don't believe I ever got a brotherhood number. My girl is the resurrected Purple Plum, Metallic Green and Chrome top and Purple Plum and yellow tiger striped bottom U.S. 40 size with an O.S. .61 SF in it. I just picked up a Brand New in the box U.S. 1000 for $150 and I am going to put a Saito 1.8 into it, retracts and flaps doing the original 74" version. I am considering the exact same color scheme for big brother. This will be next winters project as I have an F-4U Corsair and Gary Wright E3D in the works for this winter :-)

Thank you, fly on ultra sports, fly on...

Dan Mioduch
Danster_1

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

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dasquirrelisme

My Feedback: (81)

I am picking up an Ultra Sport 40 kit this weekend but it is missing the plans. Does anybody have them on PDF so I can get them printed? If not maybe somebody has a nice set to sell me? Thanks for any help. The Ultra Sport was one of my best flying airplanes but I sold it and the buyer wrecked it inverted 3 foot off the ground. I think I am going to build another one.

Danster_1

What do you guys thing of putting a Saito 180 in an ultra sport 1000 I just picked up both?

Should be about the same as the 40 size with a .61SF in it i'm guessing... ONLY BETTER :-)

USB #166 - Dan Mioduch, thanks for the number, I feel Ultra special now...

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Excellent choice. You will need to use a 3 blade prop for ground clearance, but those look and sound so cool, that will make it even better.

Jim

Danster_1

I was hoping to get away with the 2 blade 16x10 and 2 blade aluminum spinner that was just delivered this past Saturday, dohh... I had to put a 10x10 on the .61SF for ground clearance with the 40 size. I was also planning in utilizing the 80" spitfire pneumatic landing gear I have and moving them out one wing bay as suggested in this thread. The spitfire gear are pretty long, not sure if they are going to fit yet or not but that is my current idea.

Dan - USB #166

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Lengthening the main gear has the effect of moving the wheels forward with respect to the CG and also increases the wing's angle attack when on the ground. You might get away with it if you fly from grass, but for any hard surface, whatever amount you lengthen the mains, you will have to lengthen the tailwheel height by the same amount, otherwise three point landings will be impossible and your ground handling will be squirrely.

cmy6

My Feedback: (1)

Just got done framing up an Ultra Sport 60. Ready for covering. I’ll take #167 if I could please?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

So I'm finally going to get a US 1000 kit today, been wanting one for some time now. It seems like I remember reading a build thread where the builder modified the wing to a two piece wing, is it my imagination? I can't seem to find it anymore.

KaP2011
​​​​​​​Ultra Sport Brotherhood #110

VincentJ

I hope when you start your build KaP2011 that you will start a build thread! I would love to follow along. I have a kit as well (US1000) that I really should start. Finding these kits are getting very hard to find these days, and if you're lucky enough to find one, you have to be willing to part with some $$$!

mmattockx

There is no need to find a kit. The plans for the US60 and US1000 are available online at Outerzone and Lazer Works will cut short kits for both at pretty reasonable prices.

Lazer Works: Lazer Works - Engraving & Design Radio Control Airplanes, Specialty, and More
Plans: https://outerzone.co.uk/search/resul...yword=feldmann


Mark

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

the us1000 proto type was 72 in ws, the for production they added the two bays to make it 80 in ws. it made it fly totally different than the us 60; stall turns, barrel rolls, were much easier on the us60. but I had a sicker tiger in mine and when the engine would quite on take off I had to stretch the down wind pass because it just did not loose speed.

I sold mine, still have the us60 wore our one engine and replaced the second w electric, now its getting its second recover.

Joe

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)