KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the info and the photos. An interesting idea, looks sorta scale. And not too difficult to fabricate.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Zor, I thought we were friends. Why would you feel you would have to apologize to me for the way you write your postings? Thank you for the explanation. 73's
John

Zor

JNorton,

We are friends and the apologies were not aimed at you.

They were a simple statement that I do not need to apologize to anyone that claim I know nothing about the use of the English language as a tool of communication and proceed to give me lessons.

73 from Zor ___das dah dit dit dit . . . .dit dit dit dah dah ___LOL .

Zor

JNorton,

Are you satisfied with my explanation howthe canopyis held ?

It certainly never fell off in flight.

Zor

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

Hi Zor,

You have an interesting idea there. I think it's cool but what if you hinged it to the forward part of the fuselage canopy area? That way airflow over the canopy would have a tendency to push it down and secure it even more. The way it's hinged now, if air got underneath the forward lip of the canopy it would want to lift it and blow the canopy off. I'm sure that's why you have the balsa pieces to hold the front of the canopy down but it would become unnecessary if this was hinged differently.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

You show a method that is well thought out and not readily apparent. I've used more mundane methods such as screws.
John

Zor

Quickturn and JNorton,

Some of the thinking I had while building.

Hinging at the front would not be like any of the full size Skybolt I have seen.
It also would have to use only one hinge at the center of the fuselage width due to the curvature of the fuselage top. The wire I used and its shape is very similar to the system used on some of the full size Skybolt on which the canopy opens like mine.

I am sure you can see that I do not need any tools to open my canopy. All I do is lift the rear end and as it pivots on the wire the front come backward out of the two hardwood (not balsa) pieces and then just lift up to open position. To close the canopy simply present its front underneath the two hardwood pieces, line up the four side aluminum and snap them in. No real line up is necessary since the aluminum is pretty stiff and line up nicely.

I think it is impossible for the canopy front to lift and any gap there to the fuselage is very small. The front slips under the two pieces without any looseness. I can feel some friction as it goes in. The wire at its rear end goes across the width of the fuselage and is pivoted under a plywood that is screwed in so when open on the ground the wind cannot possibly blow it away.

Zor

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

OK, I get it. I didn't realize it operates like the full scale airplane.

Nice job you did there Zor!

Zor

Thanks Quickturn,

and to think that someone posted ___

and the written comment came up
quote post 1945
Which blew-off on your first flight, right?
unquote

Some guy will never stop making assumptions and guesses. It is the limit of his capabilities.
I feel sorry for him but do not let it bother me.

Zor

wlnybakken

I am currently building my second US60 and have a 3rd kit. Going to install Robart retracts and dual aileron servos in this one. Awesome airframe!

YellowBlueBird

What electric retracts are suitable for the US 40?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I would go with the E-flite set. I've got a set of the 60 - 120 mains on my US 60 and have no complaints. You could probably get a cheaper set from Hobby King but if you have a problem with them you're own your own. With Horizon you get top-notch customer service.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/25-46-90-degree-main-electric-retracts-EFLG300

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the canopyidea Zor. I'm gonna build another US 40 this summer and I'm going to try your method on it.

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

Hey Kap this is my version of the covering job on my Kaos.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Lookin good.

Scirocco14

Hi guys,

Flew my US40 today with its new powerplant, an OS 40FP. Originally I had a Fox .40 Deluxe installed but was constantly fighting the mid-range on it, it would just not run cleanly and I experienced a few dead sticks as a result. Got tired of it so put in an OS 40FP that I had on the shelf. It's fairly low-time and still hasn't finished breaking in. I was worried it might not even take-off on our field, which is grass.

Not to worry! Fired it up, got the mixture set on idle and top-end (still a little rich while it breaks in), and taxied it out. Put the coals to her and she lifted off just fine even at a fairly low take-off speed. Once in the air, the little 40FP hauls it around fast enough for me! I used a 10x6, and wondered if an 11x4 would give me a little more ooomph on the uplines and loops. I'll try it out once the engine is fully broken in.

I'm looking forward to flying the US40 a LOTthis year, now that Ican enjoy flying it and stop worrying about deadsticks.

Just thought I'd share!

Mark

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

You might try a 10X7 or a 10X8 if you have any. Think of prop pitch like a transmission, lower pitch- lower gear, higher pitch - higher gear.A clean airframe like the Ultra Sport likes to run in a higher gear. Use lower pitch on a dirty airframe like a biplane or a cub with wing struts. My US 60 with a Saito 100 and a 13X9 has nearly unlimited verticle. I started out with a 14X6 and it flew like it had an anchor tied to it. I've got a Super Sportster with an OS 40 FP and it flies great with a 10X7.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

Ditto on the 10x7 prop. The FP will handle it just fine...

cheers,

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

hi gang
got a question for anyone with an answer.
on this thread post #45 there are some pictures at the end of that post, appear to be very large, and when
I try to save that portion of the thread, the whole #45 post, not just the pictures the contents of the post
is saved minus the pictures, just empy blocks here. anyone know why?

thanks in advance
pt19 flyer

GeeBeer

Ive built two Ultra Sport 40's in the early 90's and thrilled this kit is available now. I ordered a Ultra Sport 40 the other day and it should arrive by Thursday woo hoo!

I plan on getting a Jett Fire (Rear Exhaust) and mounting it upright and running the pipe through the upper fuselage. Should be pretty cool

gerryndennis

GeeBeer,

Pretty cool? Should be absolutely awesome.

This airframe really suits a pipe, but they don't look that great dangling under the fuselage.

Minnflyer will probably be turning over in his grave at the thought of an upright engine, but I think it's probably worth it to hide the pipe in the fuselage.

Good luck with the project, I would love to see some photos of the build and the finished model.

Cheers

Dave H

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

hi KaP2011
have not considereed a foam wing. have had no experience with sheeting one, somewhere read a vacuum setup was
needed for success. have a sig kougar kit for several years and has a foam wing and haven't tackled it yet.
however maybe I thinking it is more difficult than it really is. lot of flyers go that route.
your thoughts????

thanks and happy flying
pt19 flyer.

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

hi KaP2011
have not considereed a foam wing. have had no experience with sheeting one, somewhere read a vacuum setup was
needed for success. have a sig kougar kit for several years and has a foam wing and haven't tackled it yet.
however maybe I thinking it is more difficult than it really is. lot of flyers go that route.
your thoughts????
think I screwed up on this reply to you, think it went to something norton, my apologies

thanks and happy flying
pt19 flyer.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I've never had a vacuum bag setup but I've sheeted quite a few wings using magazines for weight to hold the sheeting in place against the foam core. I've used contact glue, 3M spray contact glue and plain old wood glue and I like the wood glue the best. If you chose to use 3M, make sure you get the foam safe kind. I always edge glue several pieces of wood together to make a panel, then sand it before I put it on the core. I've never had one to come apart. Make sure you have good contact between the wood and the core. Put glue on both the core and the wood and make your panel oversize by at least 1/2" all the way around. I also only work with one side at a time, top or bottom of the wing, I never try to do both top and bottom at the same time.

Sheeting wing cores is not hard, just takes a little practice. Another way to sheet a core is to use fiberglass panels you make on a piece of glass instead of balsa. You get a very smooth surface with the fiberglass method but it will not bend around sharp curves.

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

thanks KaP2011
as I said I have a tendency to make an easy job difficult in my mind so thanks for
suggestions and your experience. I may dig the kougar out and give it a whirl.
I have heard you can only screw things up once if you do a good job of it.

thanks and happing flying

pt19 flyer joe