smkrcflyer

Navy18,
check with greyhound. I shipped a 1/4 scale spitfire kit with fiberglass fuse from the east coast to west coast for $65. I had no problems with them but it does take longer and you need to drop it off at there terminal. Ps I would like to have your plane.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Grayhound charges what a seat would cost so that is an option. i have received a few planes i purchased that way, and though its a bit of a drive for me to get to the terminal, it was a lot cheaper then UPS, etc.

Bill S.

Navy18

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks TwinFlyer and Smkrcflyer. I have not sold yet due to added shipping cost. I will check with greyhound to get some other options. I appreciate your response. All the best to you.

Navy18

My Feedback: (4)

I am curious… about your spitfire, was it an expensive wood and epoxy/fiberglass kit? Could you buy the tail section alone for construction? I am a spitfire fan and would like to build a tail section for a display I am building. What scale?

Thanks.

Calvinman

Nice looking build Navy18 I am sure you will be able to get someone locally interested in it. Are you able to finish it? Hopefully you will be back in the air faster than you think.

Calvi

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Don't let the shipping cost alone stop you from trying to sell it. You do need to come up with a fair price for the plane considering the work that was done without going overboard but there is always a chance someone may be willing to pay for it!

Good luck!

Bill S.

Staticxd00d

I too would like to join the brotherhood. I used to own and fly an Ultra Sport 60, and will in all likelihood own another one in the near future. Great flying plane!

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

The problem with trying to come up with a fair price is that through extensive scientific research it has been discovered that r/c pilots are cheap. Especially when it comes to built up models, we know what is under the covering. The skill and time invested rarely come into play.

Navy18

My Feedback: (4)

I have sold several planes in the past but never in "bare bones" so this is a new page for me. I have broken 3 ribs and it will be a while before I can finish up... But then the cost will be higher. The "pilots are CHEAP" theory may win over and the usual pilot will want the build skills for free. We are a picky bunch. Ok, I will keep it on the market sight for the 30 days then hang her in the shop. It has been fun talking about. I wonder what brotherhood is the least cheap? Oh wait, we are all pilots so it won't matter.

Safe flying my friends. " I may not always go flying, but when I do, I go cheap"

They do look nice in the "bones" though... Above spit kit was fun, but no ultra sport. Attached is a picture of complete kit. I was asked if the kit was complete… it sure is.

Aleluis

I just bought a .60 size kit. I hope soon become a member!

hsukaria

I recently acquired through some trading an old Ultra Sport 40 ARF, with the plastic/foam covering. It is banged up somewhat and I would like to strip out the foam covering and add some balsa sheeting and heat shrink covering. I have all the material for doing that. Are there any obstacles against doing this? Has anybody done this before? It has mechanical retracts, but a busted canopy and engine cowl. The cowl I can easily form with balsa blocks. But I have not been able to locate a 40-size cowl. I have found the 60-size cowl from Tower Hobbies though. Would the 60-size cowl be adaptable to the 40 with some trimming? If not, I suppose I would have to get some soft balsa blocks and carve away.

Thanks for any advice.

Calvinman

The 60 size canopy will work on the Ultrasport 40.

hsukaria

thanks Calvinman. I went back and read some older posts and realized that the 60 canopy would fit.

I just wonder if the plastic/foam covering will be easy to peel.

Calvinman

Nothing worthwhile is easy hsukaria

Calvi

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I've rebuilt some of the older ARF's, (not the US40), in the past and they weren't too difficult. Just had to remove the old plastic and Styrofoam and the nasty shelf paper covering. Then rebuild the structure and go from there. The funny thing is, every time I've rebuilt one it has came out lighter than the original.

hsukaria

I was hoping somebody would say that it would come out lighter by stripping that nasty foam/plastic. I could get away by flying it as is, even though there is some plastic cracker/wrinkled. But I would like to keep it for long term, and the best way I know of keeping it longer is to rebuild it.

I originally had 4 other plane projects ahead of this one, but I might move it up a ahead a couple of projects. You guys are getting me fired up.

I could use an Irvine 40 with a tuned pipe, or use a newer JBA 56 with the Tower-style muffler. I guess it would depend on how much it comes out weighing. I could even swap out an OS 55AX from another plane, but I think the power is similar to the JBA 56 ABC?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I'm not familiar with the JBA 56 but my US 40 with an OS 55 was awesome.

hsukaria

I bench tested the JBA 56 and it seemed quite powerful, but I have not done a side-to-side comparison with the OS 55AX. I know the OS 55AX is more of a big prop engine. That is why I though of the Irvine 40 with a tuned pipe, that would be more like the classic pattern type of engine setup.

hsukaria

hmmmm!! That's what SHE said!!!

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Those foam skinned ARFs used the skin for their strength. You will find that the structure under the skin is very weak and will not be useable by itself. You might be able to design some kind of reinforcing structure to go with it, but it would be a scratch design project and probably turn out heavier than the original foam skinned model.

You would be best off just flying the heck out of it and having fun.

Jim

hsukaria

I'll go back and re-examine the condition it's in. If flyable, I might just fly it as is. It will be ugly as sin, no cowl, broken canopy, cracked trim pieces everywhere, but maybe flyable.

DMehalko

My Feedback: (42)

Potentially looking at building a 60, anyone stuff a DLE20 in one yet? Im thinking a DLE20RA, servos in the tail, robart retracts, with a 15x10 or 14x12 prop for a rippin ultrasport

Staticxd00d

Is anyone still adding to the brotherhood? Been a while since I asked...

hsukaria

I'm still subscribed, I just started actually since I have acquired a beatup Ultra Sport 40 ARF and plan on restoring it next year.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I believe the next number up is 163. Add it to your signature line and welcome to the Ultra Sport Brotherhood.