KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

My canopy is also painted black from the inside. Not to reduce glare but because I was too lazy to put a pilot in it, didn't want the weight anyway.

Took the US 60 out for a ride yesterday, a couple of photos. I love looking at pictures of Ultra Sports. It's a very photogenic plane. My covering scheme closely matches Minnflyer's US 40.

stankinator

Nice! Beautiful. I'm thinking of getting another at some point so I can play with retracts (probably a 1000 if I can find one). To be clear, that point is not now.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

Beautiful airplane! I'm inspired to get busy on mine! Thank you for sharing!

I have the Ultra Sport 1000 tail feathers done and now starting on the Wing panels. Rhome Air Retracts and will incorporate flaps per MinnFlier's recommendation. It's going to be an awesome and fun winter build sason. Ultra Sport 1000 (I've had the kit for like 6 years now and finally getting to building it) and an Ultra Sport 60 (have had the kit for like 3 years). Career moves have taken my free time away far too long. Then a major event happens (brain cancer discovered September 23, 2014) and it wakes you up to think what is really important. First it's family and what the big man upstairs has planned for you (truly feel like I've been given a second chance) and then get back to what makes you happy and content. Reconnecting with the hobby that kept dad and I connected along with my brother. Wife is even encouraging my dive back into the hobby again. Says that I seem much happier now.. Career is locked in and they just want me to get stronger and better. I'm so lucky to be working for the organization that I work for. Nothing could be more important and rewarding. Serving an organization that serves to Children and their health. Medical miracles performed everyday...

Cheers,

stankinator

Wow, that's quite the adventure! Glad to hear you're back into flying. Let us know how the US1000 ends up!

stankinator

Finished peeling the covering off the fuselage. A lot more work than I thought, and I completely neglected thinking about what to do with the hinges.



Looks like the wood's due for an acetone bath. Why the previous owner chose brown I'll never know, but that residue has to go.

EDIT: for reference, here's what it looked like before:

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

Will do sir and thank you. Santa was pretty nice with a gift card to my favorite building supply store, So heading that way to pickup a new building board and some new power toys (drill press and disk/belt sander). Won't be a build and document type build sharing. Just hit the highlights of slight deviations from original build plans. Like Rhome air retracts, flaps, and tuned pipe installation. Using 120AX with matched tuned muffled pipe to boost power and keep it quiet.

Calvinman

I was bored so I disolved the backing off of a 1/2" x 12" strip of monocote in some trim solvent, then brushed on to the white landing gear. turned out not bad, maybe another round will do it. Should I clear coat it?

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I'm sure it's just me but the landing gear just looks strange to me. Still a nice looking plane! I'm inspired! What header/muffler are you using?

Cheers,

Calvinman

Morning Tim, it is a macs header and tuned pipe on a OS AX 46. Have not flown it yet, but its clone flew all last summer. The hubcaps are pop can bottoms This is the fourth (or is it the fifth) US of mine with this landing gear set up. If you don't mind some hopping on landings it works great. For some reason I had to make a wedge shaped spacer to go between the exhaust port and the header so the header would not hit the bottom of the fuse? Maybe a bad alignment at the Macs welding shop?

Calvi

lonestoner

Is it really that important to taper sand the tail feathers on a us 1000? I mean I will still round all corners but to taper the rudder and elevator is a bit extreme ,please chime in with any advice

box car

I never did on mine , just rounded things off

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Tapering them makes the airplane fly steadier and smoother when the are controls centered. Rounding them makes it hunt when the controls are centered. A good compromise is to not taper them and NOT round them. That is almost as good as tapering them.

You really should avoid rounding off the trailing edge of any control surface. Aside from hunting when centered, it also promotes flutter.

Jim

lonestoner

I am listening to everyone's advice,thanks a bunch and full build ahead!!

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

+1 what jrf said. I've always tapered mine except on my first one, it's not difficult to do and it does fly much smoother.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I've tapered the tail feathers on mine. I heard that it allows a cleaner flow and release of the air flow over the surface. Less burble which equates to more precise control.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

Interesting setup and and thank you for sharing. Perhaps if the engine were mounted upright the header would not have been an issue? There is a pretty significant angle of the bottom sheeting which I guess would be a challenge to for many of the mufflers currently on the market. Cool muffler and header setup. Is it quiet? I'm a tuned pipe type person. Mainly for really quieting the engine muffler noise and at the same time boost engine power a bit. But one needs to tune them in. A bit of a pain ,but worth it when it is all set. I use the muffled tune pipes, which are pretty quiet. I loved the setup on my Bridi XLT which had the OS 60AX engine. Matched the pipe, got up it tuned in and then enjoyed the rocket ship on rails speed I,was getting.

Calvi... You sir have a nice airplane there and I'm inspired. I'm having fun building my UltraSport 1000 kit. Working on the wing spars. Laminating them now. I using a good quality Titebound hardwood glue that my brother the master wood worker recommended. Not the typical Titebound one would find at the local major home improvement centers. One would have to go to a true wood workers store where they specialize in specific tools and specialty wood, hardware and kits. Woodcrafters located in Seattle is my local favorite.

lonestoner

whats these best method to taper the tail feathers?

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

I tapered some ailerons using a belt sander I clamped onto a work bench upside down. I'm worked out really well. I'd like to get a 3 inch table top belt sander with a side disc sander now. I can also sharpen all our knives with it too.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

First draw a guideline along the center of the trailing edge so that you can sand it evenly and smear some pencil lead along the top and bottom at the leading edge to make sure you don't sand into that. I put mine at the edge of the work bench and then sand chord-wise with a sanding stick, checking often to see that I am sanding evenly. A final pass or two span-wise to level out any high spots and I am done.

Jim

Calvinman

HI Tim, the tuned pipe setup is the same as what I used to use back in the early 90's and I had no problem back then and it looks like the firewall has the correct thrust in it. I like the sound of the pipe I use, not sure if it is quieter or not, but sweeter for sure and as you say the power boost and the fact that the model needs very little de-goo-ing after flying is another benefit. The plane looks better than the pictures except all the screws I used on the canopy, I feel like I will have to wear a studded leather jacket when I fly it I would love to build a bigger version but alas I can hardly move a 40 size aircraft around without dinging it to death I will take a pic of how I transport my tiger 2 in my Explorer Sport Trac with a few inches sticking out of both back windows and pool noodles for gaskets

Hi Lonestoner, I usually just mark a center line all the way around, then sand from the back to the front reducing the strokes I take as I get closer to the front. Just check often to make sure every thing is going to plan.and go from one side to the other and back along the way so it tends to be more symmetrical.

Calvi

lonestoner

I'm gonna go with the belt disc sander option when I could afford that machine, this way I could be more precise and save time.

Calvinman

Or shoot your fins across the room It does not take that long by hand and easyer on the fingertips

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I was told from my brother and father that this glue was excellent for laminating the spars: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/08L...-Glue-8oz.aspx.

I posted the the link from my local favorite wood crafters store. But if you looked in your area you may find the same Titebond product. I was told that the local home improvement brick and mortars probably doesn't carry it....

I'm going to give this stuff a go and share the results...

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I've been using Premium Titebond II glue for years. Our local Lowe's and Home Depot both carry it. Some of the larger stores even carry it in 1 gallon jugs. It works great but I've not noticed any difference from the regular Titebond other than it's water proof, making it good for out doors applications.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I saw that the Titebond III was the waterproof type glue. But they list the Titebond II as Premium Type (or extended type) glue. My ignorance is showing through on this stuff, but I welcome the education. Thank you ��. Curious to what others have used to laminate pieces of wood together and make the spars for the UltraSport 1000 or for any airplane kit that required one to laminate sections of wood to build their spars. I thought that the standard type 1 Titebond glue was just too flexible to use. So looked into something a bit more stiff when cured. I asked my brother the master wood worker and my dad. They both said the Titebond 2 was good stuff. Better then the type 1. I don't see the need for the type 3 as it states the major difference is that it was water proof. Why would one need that if there was no plan to fly off water. The wing would be covered and sealed with the film and sealed wheel wells for the retracts. I was going to mix a batch of resin and coat my wheel wells. Keeps it clean and offers additional strength when hardened. Going to use air for my retracts and line the wheel well area with balsa and seal with resin. Done it before. Takes time and patience to get it done, but well worth the effort. Looked pretty on my Bridi XLT and BTE Reaction 54. The resin coating really helped with sealing the area and added some strength to the balsa sheeting that lined the wheel wells. I guess thin ply would work well too. But I already shaped the balsa skin around a paint can and it worked well for me....

HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone! My wish to you and your family is much success and happiness for the year 2015!!!

Let it be your best!!!

Cheers,