Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Kit Building
Reload this Page >

Fiberglassing with water-based products?

Community
Search
Notices
Kit Building If you're building a kit and have questions or want to discuss kit building post it here.

Fiberglassing with water-based products?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-02-2010, 11:04 AM
  #1  
Scratchie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Mendota heights, MN
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Fiberglassing with water-based products?

What is the potential that using a water-based polycrylic for resin will warp a wing?

Also, what "recipes" are people using for thinning other heavier resins? I’m planning on fiberglassing the entire plane prior to painting, and I doubt if the heavier resins could ever be applied in a way that they don’t add too much weight. Thanks
Old 05-02-2010, 11:14 AM
  #2  
Fleet
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ladson, SC
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

I use Polycrylic on sheeted structures with great result. Mixing talc on the last few coats will fill the weave nicely. I've never covered open bay wings as I'm told of a potential warping problem but some do with great success. I stick with the adheasive backed coverite for wings.

Nice not to have the Nitrate and Butyrate fumes risking life and limb but I still use Nitrate and Butyrate on the final finishes.

Ray.
Old 05-02-2010, 11:43 AM
  #3  
Scratchie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Mendota heights, MN
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

what percent of strength do you think is lost using the water-based resins?
Old 05-02-2010, 11:47 AM
  #4  
Gray Beard
My Feedback: (-1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hemderson, NV
Posts: 14,396
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

I have gotten warps using water based. I use 1/2 ounce glass and Deft Sanding Lacquer instead of water based. No thinning needed, it gasses off about 80% of it's weight. 50/50 blend of baby powder for the final coats. The Deft requires an open area to use, the fumes will knock you on your ear if you do it in an enclosed area!!! Other then that I get a lot better finish then with WB products.
Old 05-02-2010, 12:16 PM
  #5  
Scratchie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Mendota heights, MN
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

Those warps were on a fully sheeted structure?
Old 05-02-2010, 12:24 PM
  #6  
Gray Beard
My Feedback: (-1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hemderson, NV
Posts: 14,396
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

ORIGINAL: Scratchie

Those warps were on a fully sheeted structure?
Yes, you don't glass over an open bay. A lot of people are using water based and loving it. I tried it and got a warp on the wing so I don't care for it myself. I used to use resin but it's too heavy and too much work to sand. I was turned onto the Deft Sanding Lacquer by a friend and it has been my choice ever sense. Easy to work with and the best finish I have ever gotten with glass. I warn people about the fumes though, I haven't been that high sense 1976!!![8D]
Old 05-02-2010, 12:26 PM
  #7  
Scratchie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Mendota heights, MN
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

Is the deft laquer the same thing as a 'sanding sealer"? I like to use Minwax sanding sealer before painting becasue it makes the balsa and filler the same hardness for sanding.
Old 05-02-2010, 05:45 PM
  #8  
Gray Beard
My Feedback: (-1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hemderson, NV
Posts: 14,396
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?


ORIGINAL: Scratchie

Is the deft laquer the same thing as a 'sanding sealer''? I like to use Minwax sanding sealer before painting becasue it makes the balsa and filler the same hardness for sanding.
No, not at all. It is found at Lowe's hardware with the water based products. Before you glass you do use two coats of sanding sealer on your wood then sand smooth, this just keeps the product you are going to use from soaking into the wood. With the Deft Sanding Lacquer I first do two caots of sanding sealer then sand, then I lay down my glass with one coat of Deft then add a second coat then some light sanding. It takes several coats aND i SAND BETWEEN COATS except the first one. After coat #3 I mix up a 50/50 blend of Deft and baby powder. The powder just fills in any weave you can see or feel. Most of this is just sanded off. You can tell as you go when to give it the final coat of 50/50. I also use 1/2 oz glass so there isn't a lot of weave to fill. Very easy to do. Glassing just takes more time then covering but the finished product is bullet proof. I also like Klass Kote paint but there are some very good paints on the market so search around here on RCU for that. I just like the twp part epoxy paints. Acetone won't even bother it!!
Old 05-02-2010, 06:32 PM
  #9  
Chip_Mull
My Feedback: (1)
 
Chip_Mull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

By the way, you are NOT risking life and limb with Nitrate or Butyrate dope unless you are drinking the stuff. The OSHA website is no more alarming about dope than it is Hydroxide H20.
Old 05-02-2010, 07:01 PM
  #10  
Jim_Purcha
My Feedback: (8)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Fiberglassing with water-based products?

I've done the minwax technique and used K&B years back. It's the epoxy paint makes the surface bullet proof. I have a plane painted in rustoleum over minwax polycrylic and it's not what I would call bullet proof.

Jim
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard


ORIGINAL: Scratchie

Is the deft laquer the same thing as a 'sanding sealer''? I like to use Minwax sanding sealer before painting becasue it makes the balsa and filler the same hardness for sanding.
No, not at all. It is found at Lowe's hardware with the water based products. Before you glass you do use two coats of sanding sealer on your wood then sand smooth, this just keeps the product you are going to use from soaking into the wood. With the Deft Sanding Lacquer I first do two caots of sanding sealer then sand, then I lay down my glass with one coat of Deft then add a second coat then some light sanding. It takes several coats aND i SAND BETWEEN COATS except the first one. After coat #3 I mix up a 50/50 blend of Deft and baby powder. The powder just fills in any weave you can see or feel. Most of this is just sanded off. You can tell as you go when to give it the final coat of 50/50. I also use 1/2 oz glass so there isn't a lot of weave to fill. Very easy to do. Glassing just takes more time then covering but the finished product is bullet proof. I also like Klass Kote paint but there are some very good paints on the market so search around here on RCU for that. I just like the twp part epoxy paints. Acetone won't even bother it!!

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.