Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
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Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Hello!
Living up here in NorthernOntario, and having a local bushplane museum, I feel obliged to build a proper bushplane model !
I just discovered a kit manufacturer called Unionville Hobby Supply, carried by Great Hobbies. They have all of the models that I have been
dreaming about for years, minus the Husky.
Has anyone have any suggestions for building tips, pictures of finished models (can't find any...) or advice on which kit?
I am looking at the smaller sized Otter, Beaver, (radial versions) and Norseman, and may be putting it on floats.
You can check them out here:
http://www.greathobbies.com/search/r...UVH&srchcat=AK
Thank you,
Graeme
Living up here in NorthernOntario, and having a local bushplane museum, I feel obliged to build a proper bushplane model !
I just discovered a kit manufacturer called Unionville Hobby Supply, carried by Great Hobbies. They have all of the models that I have been
dreaming about for years, minus the Husky.
Has anyone have any suggestions for building tips, pictures of finished models (can't find any...) or advice on which kit?
I am looking at the smaller sized Otter, Beaver, (radial versions) and Norseman, and may be putting it on floats.
You can check them out here:
http://www.greathobbies.com/search/r...UVH&srchcat=AK
Thank you,
Graeme
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
That's a nice looking plane!
I hope to be able to build one of the early bushplanes this summer and fly off the water...
I hope to be able to build one of the early bushplanes this summer and fly off the water...
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Thanks for the pictures Jollidude!
I am leaning towards the Otter or Norseman on floats - What power setup do you have on your models?
I am leaning towards the Otter or Norseman on floats - What power setup do you have on your models?
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Here is MY Beaver!
Just out of the "factory" (er, my shop) is a 6' version of the Unionville Hobbies DHC-2 Beaver.
I really enjoyed building the kit. It is a really nice kit, with a quality glass cowl (unusual at this price point!) and for the most part good wood. The only wood I rejected was the strip alieron material that was a bit too dense and hard for my taste. Most consider it a "builder's kit," but I think this one could be successfully built by a modeler with one or two simpler kits under his belt.
I bought this kit in 1995 at a LHS in the mall at Anchorage, AK, while I was there on business. The LHSs in Canada and Alaska, at the time anyway, stocked every conceivable size and version of any kit of the Beaver or other DeHavilland bush planes due to the local popularity of the real ones. It took only 15 years for the kit to come up on "rotation" to get built! Better late than never.
This one is powered by a NIB OS FS-40 Surpass that I must have traded someone out of. I didn't buy it, but have had it so long I cannot remember where I got it.
The airframe is covered with MonoKote, and weighs in at 6 lb. 8oz. This is a bit over the weight shown on the box. I am NEVER able to build a plane that comes in at the advertised weight. I believe the wing loading is right at 25 oz./sq. ft, which is fine with me. One factor is the heavy vintage Kraft wheels. Surprisingly, I had to add 2 oz. of lead to the tail. The prototype, according to the build booklet, needed no weight with exactly the same engine.
I made a couple of changes as I built the airframe. In the first photo I have shown where I moved the rear vertical ply brace rearward so that it does not block the rear window. I thought this brace in the window is really unsightly. I then added a gusset to the top of the brace to tie it to the wing mounting plate. This also has the advantageous effect of almost doubling the space for mounting servos between the two balsa plates that span the cabin laterally. I HIGHLY recommend this change to any future builder of this plane.
I also dispensed with the 5/32" wire gear (which Unionville leaves you to you own devices to cut and bend) in favor of more scale appearance 1/8" 6061-T6 aluminum gear I fabricated from sheet stock I bought on eBay. Not hard to do with a band saw with a hacksaw type blade and a vice and hammer to bend the blanks into gear. I had to heat the blanks in the areas of the bends in order to prevent cracking of the aluminum in the 52 degree bends. I used to have access to a bending brake at my engineering lab, but not so easily since I retired in late 2008.
I also opted for not only flaps, but flaperons in prototypical hommage to the real plane, which can drop the ailerons about 20 degrees with the flap deflection of about 40 degrees. This mixing to do this with my JR 7202 was pretty easy once you elect "flaperon" in the program menu. The photos show the flaps and ailerons in full down deflection. I have not flown the plane yet, and will test the flap setup at a comfortable "3 mistake" altitude. I want to be sure there is not tendency to snap when maneuvering at approach and landing speeds with the drooped ailerons.
Thanks for listening,
Regards,
Randy L.
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Just out of the "factory" (er, my shop) is a 6' version of the Unionville Hobbies DHC-2 Beaver.
I really enjoyed building the kit. It is a really nice kit, with a quality glass cowl (unusual at this price point!) and for the most part good wood. The only wood I rejected was the strip alieron material that was a bit too dense and hard for my taste. Most consider it a "builder's kit," but I think this one could be successfully built by a modeler with one or two simpler kits under his belt.
I bought this kit in 1995 at a LHS in the mall at Anchorage, AK, while I was there on business. The LHSs in Canada and Alaska, at the time anyway, stocked every conceivable size and version of any kit of the Beaver or other DeHavilland bush planes due to the local popularity of the real ones. It took only 15 years for the kit to come up on "rotation" to get built! Better late than never.
This one is powered by a NIB OS FS-40 Surpass that I must have traded someone out of. I didn't buy it, but have had it so long I cannot remember where I got it.
The airframe is covered with MonoKote, and weighs in at 6 lb. 8oz. This is a bit over the weight shown on the box. I am NEVER able to build a plane that comes in at the advertised weight. I believe the wing loading is right at 25 oz./sq. ft, which is fine with me. One factor is the heavy vintage Kraft wheels. Surprisingly, I had to add 2 oz. of lead to the tail. The prototype, according to the build booklet, needed no weight with exactly the same engine.
I made a couple of changes as I built the airframe. In the first photo I have shown where I moved the rear vertical ply brace rearward so that it does not block the rear window. I thought this brace in the window is really unsightly. I then added a gusset to the top of the brace to tie it to the wing mounting plate. This also has the advantageous effect of almost doubling the space for mounting servos between the two balsa plates that span the cabin laterally. I HIGHLY recommend this change to any future builder of this plane.
I also dispensed with the 5/32" wire gear (which Unionville leaves you to you own devices to cut and bend) in favor of more scale appearance 1/8" 6061-T6 aluminum gear I fabricated from sheet stock I bought on eBay. Not hard to do with a band saw with a hacksaw type blade and a vice and hammer to bend the blanks into gear. I had to heat the blanks in the areas of the bends in order to prevent cracking of the aluminum in the 52 degree bends. I used to have access to a bending brake at my engineering lab, but not so easily since I retired in late 2008.
I also opted for not only flaps, but flaperons in prototypical hommage to the real plane, which can drop the ailerons about 20 degrees with the flap deflection of about 40 degrees. This mixing to do this with my JR 7202 was pretty easy once you elect "flaperon" in the program menu. The photos show the flaps and ailerons in full down deflection. I have not flown the plane yet, and will test the flap setup at a comfortable "3 mistake" altitude. I want to be sure there is not tendency to snap when maneuvering at approach and landing speeds with the drooped ailerons.
Thanks for listening,
Regards,
Randy L.
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#8
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
I’m looking for the plans for the 8’ Beaver by Unionville Hobby. I bought partially started kit on the Craigslist but the plans are missing.
I could not find any manufacture website, perhaps someone can provide contact information for the Unionville Hobby, maybe they could help.
Thanks,
I could not find any manufacture website, perhaps someone can provide contact information for the Unionville Hobby, maybe they could help.
Thanks,
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Here is a link that has Unionville Hobby Supply contact info
http://www.profilecanada.com/company...chmond_Hill_ON
http://www.profilecanada.com/company...chmond_Hill_ON
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
My bush plane was made from a Dynaflite Super Decathlon. The whole plane is sheeted barn door flaps and ailerons and 6" tires, with a DLE 30 for power.
Ken
Ken
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Gota love a bush plane!!!Heres were I got my UnionVille Hobbys Beaver,http://www.scalercmodels.com/ they sell plans i think,Not started on my kit yet,It's the 8' Radial kit with floats,I want a Norsman also,Thanks Les
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Hi @jollidue, Ilove the beautiful job you did on your Beaver. Iam building this kit now, and I have a build log going at www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php Iam really curious about how you painted your cowl. What kind of paint did you use and how did you get your stripes to come out so nice? On the first page of my link above you'll find a picture of the paint job I am trying to replicate. Any advice you have on painting it is appreciated. Thanks,Tom
ORIGINAL: Jollidude
Here are a few photos of my Unionville Beaver on floats and my Unionville Otter (both are the 6 foot versions).
Cheers!
Jollidude
Here are a few photos of my Unionville Beaver on floats and my Unionville Otter (both are the 6 foot versions).
Cheers!
Jollidude
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RE: Unionville Hobby Bushplanes
Hi Tom,
I've been following your build on RC Groups. The Beaver was built in 2000, I still have it but it only gets flown a few times a year. I just masked off the stripe with 1/4" masking tape (to get a nice tight radius) and then taped paper to cover the rest. I used Walmart water based spray cans to do the white and the blue. Forget the exact brand. Doesn't match exactly but you can't tell from 10 feet away. Gold is just 1/8 " automotive pinstripe. Only the cowl and windshield are painted. The wing and fuse is Ultracote.
I added 1/4" balsa stringers along the corners of the fuse to be able to round off the corners to make it more scale looking. Don't know if you are too far along to do that. Makes a big difference. Your build looks great.
Wayne
I've been following your build on RC Groups. The Beaver was built in 2000, I still have it but it only gets flown a few times a year. I just masked off the stripe with 1/4" masking tape (to get a nice tight radius) and then taped paper to cover the rest. I used Walmart water based spray cans to do the white and the blue. Forget the exact brand. Doesn't match exactly but you can't tell from 10 feet away. Gold is just 1/8 " automotive pinstripe. Only the cowl and windshield are painted. The wing and fuse is Ultracote.
I added 1/4" balsa stringers along the corners of the fuse to be able to round off the corners to make it more scale looking. Don't know if you are too far along to do that. Makes a big difference. Your build looks great.
Wayne